Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 67 - AVS Forum
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post #1981 of 7199 Old 06-07-2013, 07:43 PM
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Not sure that this has been emphasised much but I'm very impressed with Netflix on this TV. 1080p and it feeds 5.1 to the home theater. smile.gif
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post #1982 of 7199 Old 06-07-2013, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by copster30 View Post

Not sure that this has been emphasised much but I'm very impressed with Netflix on this TV. 1080p and it feeds 5.1 to the home theater. smile.gif

Yeah, Panasonic has got the modern Netflix app with all the bells and whistles. Where it comes up short is Amazon Prime, which doesn't implement the Watchlist. which makes that app basically useless to me. That's kind of a strange omission.
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post #1983 of 7199 Old 06-07-2013, 10:20 PM
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Just played some Gears on the Xbox. I sit up when playing so am 6-7 feet from the screen (65") and it looks amazing. Plus i didn't experience any lag with the active reload.
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post #1984 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 11:52 AM
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Folks, was trying to set up the TV to use HDMI audio out from HDMI 2 (ARC). According to the manual, i should have a Digital Audio Out setting in the Audio settings (above HDMI input setting) but it's not there. Anyone know what could be happening here?
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post #1985 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 01:45 PM
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I picked up the RCA remote, and figured out how to enter the EFCs.

The good news: the EFCs for discrete power on (device 0650; 20005 and 21029) worked!

The bad news is that the discrete input EFCs did not. (and those are the ones I really need)

I am thinking that panasonic has recently moved the ball here, since the obvious workaround (input, then number from pad) does not work, and googling posts from a few years ago indicates that it *used* to work. Maybe it still works for the ST.

I will try to hang out on the JP-1 site; it is a bit technical, so I have some studying to do before I dare post.

But if anyone has a working EFC for the S series inputs, I would be very grateful.

>> One small problem I am having. As far as I can tell, there is no discrete off, and no codes for the inputs on the remote (the "last" button has some functionality, but not enough for me since I use all three inputs). The discrete off is no big deal, but the lack of discrete input codes means that there is no obvious graceful way to write macros to switch devices. I am assuming that there are hidden codes that companies like harmony use, but it would be a drag to have to buy a new learning remote.

> I'm pretty sure the S60 is as capable in this area as my ST60, which supports discrete on/off and discrete inputs for all but the built-in TV tuner. You may be able to find an old remote on eBay that has physical buttons for these functions, but the long term, general purpose solution for all devices is to get into JP1 remotes. The RCA RCRP05B is a perennial favorite and cheap, less than $15 or so. It is a decent remote in its own right, but I use it to teach my remote of choice, the Sony RM-VL610. I've been programming the RCA with a JP1 cable and RMIR software, but I've recently learned it's possible to input codes by hand, which will do nicely when you just need a few codes to teach another remote. For more on this, see the thread here, and this site BTW is the main site for all things JP1:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=109150&sid=2dbd6767ec0edd5e5d19807d3af0cbdb

If you scroll down to the list of recalculated EFCs, you will find discrete power and inputs. I assume they work; I know the one for Sleep does, as I tried it. (The thread was motivated by someone asking here about the Sleep command and me wondering if there was an easier way than buying/constructing a JP1 cable and getting into RMIR.)
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post #1986 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by nopedals View Post

I have had the 65 inch S64 for a week, and I think I am going to return it and buy the 50 inch model.

My TV stand (barely) accomodates it, and the viewing distance is pretty optimum for high def viewing (8-9 feet).

But ... the wife nearly fainted when she saw how big it was. She has come around a bit, but it is in a room set up as a combo library/media room in an older house, not a mcmansion rec room, and I have to admit the incongruity of putting an aircraft carrier in there.

Also, while it looks great for high definition, a lot of our viewing is standard definition. Blu-ray looks stunning, OTA hi def pretty close, but as you slide down the scale for DVDs, streaming Netflix, laser disks, and SD programming (in roughly that order), I start noticing picture issues that did not bother me on the 30 HD CRT I had before.

So, on balance, I have to admit that the immersive effect of the big screen is balanced out by other factors (not to mention the price).
Have you considered upgrading your cable service? smile.gif

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Originally Posted by JHummrich View Post

Besides glare, is there an overall feeling on any major issues with the S60? Any floating blacks? I've seen something about a dithering issue but can't find any good information. I love my 59D8000 upstairs but I've been trying to find a new TV for the basement. I've been through 3 LEDs at this point and I'm now thinking I just need to get another plasma. I just love the Plasma look without all the ******** issues. Thanks for any input!
No issues, aside from basic issues inherent with the tech. Be a little careful with static/redundant content for the first few hundred hours, don't listen for buzzing, and don't go looking for any other problems. biggrin.gif

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Originally Posted by copster30 View Post

Not sure that this has been emphasised much but I'm very impressed with Netflix on this TV. 1080p and it feeds 5.1 to the home theater. smile.gif
Lucky you, my connection will only give me 720p in Netflix. Still looks/sounds great though!

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Originally Posted by copster30 View Post

Folks, was trying to set up the TV to use HDMI audio out from HDMI 2 (ARC). According to the manual, i should have a Digital Audio Out setting in the Audio settings (above HDMI input setting) but it's not there. Anyone know what could be happening here?
Go to viera link and make sure sound output is set to home theater. That should do it.
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post #1987 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 02:00 PM
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I was able to take care of my reflection/glare issue by tilting tv up to a slightly negative angle. Thanks for your help..
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post #1988 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nopedals View Post

I picked up the RCA remote, and figured out how to enter the EFCs.

The good news: the EFCs for discrete power on (device 0650; 20005 and 21029) worked!

The bad news is that the discrete input EFCs did not. (and those are the ones I really need)

I am thinking that panasonic has recently moved the ball here, since the obvious workaround (input, then number from pad) does not work, and googling posts from a few years ago indicates that it *used* to work. Maybe it still works for the ST.

Ouch, sorry to hear that. I know the discrete input commands work on the ST60, but I used RMIR and a cable to program them into the RCA. I will try later using the 994 manual method and let you know if they work. JP1 can be finicky, so hopefully it's just a case of that. You are following this procedure to the letter, right?

http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual_Programming_-_9xx_Commands#.28994.29_Key_Mover
Program Effective Function Code (EFC) for a single device

1. TAP a DEVICE button (eg, TV)
2. PRESS and HOLD the SETUP button until the red LED flashes twice, then RELEASE.
3. TAP 9 - 9 - 4.
4. TAP the SETUP button
5. TYPE the 3 or 5 digit EFC code (aka "advanced code)
6. TAP the regular button (eg, VOL+) - two Blinks


Also, there are reset commands 980 and 981 that can be useful, and 973 and 993 commands for "unlocking" certain keys that otherwise are stuck to CBL/SAT (like I believe VOL+ which should be avoided unless you're really programming VOL+ into it). These things are actually documented in the instructions that come with the remote.
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post #1989 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 03:23 PM
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> You are following this procedure to the letter, right?

Yes (although I get an LED blink after 994 that is not reflected in the script). As I indicated, it worked like a charm for discrete on and off.

I thought maybe it had something to do with locked keys, so I tried it with a number of keys. Then I cleared the key that worked with discrete power on, and tried to map it there. No dice.

Just curious; does the number pad switch inputs on the ST? In other words, if you press INPUT and then 2, does it go to HTMI2? It does not do this on my S64.

I am also curious if harmony owners are able to switch inputs on S64/S60s. I am not a harmony buff, but I understand that they have "play TV" and "play DVD" "activites" (ie, macros).

It is still my theory that the S60/64 has new EFCs.
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post #1990 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nopedals View Post

Yes (although I get an LED blink after 994 that is not reflected in the script). As I indicated, it worked like a charm for discrete on and off.

That blink is normal.
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Just curious; does the number pad switch inputs on the ST? In other words, if you press INPUT and then 2, does it go to HTMI2? It does not do this on my S64.

No, it switches to the TV tuner and changes the channel, which is what pressing a numeric key does when watching any input. This is Panasonic's idea of a discrete input command for the TV tuner. mad.gif
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It is still my theory that the S60/64 has new EFCs.

No idea about that, but I just did a 981 reset on my RCA, set its TV device to code 0650, and verified that the recalculated EFCs given in that thread for HDMI 1 (54561) and HDMI 2 (55585) work on my 50ST60 when entered using the 994 method. I assigned them to the Day+ and Day- keys after establishing those keys have no default behavior.
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post #1991 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 04:48 PM
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Well, that's some useful information. I had disabled the antenna input, so the number buttons did nothing. I should be able to write a macro that goes INPUT, 1 (to force it to antenna), and then the number of INPUT presses to select the proper input. Those EFCs definitely do not work on my S64.
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post #1992 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 04:52 PM
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I will also try a 981 reset, and try the day +- with those numbers again. I should add that I appreciate your generosity with your time.
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post #1993 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 05:19 PM
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S60 rmdu file I just uploaded a remotemaster file with discrete on/off along with all the other buttons on the s60 remote. Let me know if this is what you need.

edit: updated with discrete inputs.
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post #1994 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by CBMC View Post

S60 rmdu file I just uploaded a remotemaster file with discrete on/off along with all the other buttons on the s60 remote. Let me know if this is what you need.

I don't see any discrete input commands (HDMI 1, HDMI 2, etc) in that file, and that's what he's looking for. He's saying the Panasonic codes for discrete input that work for the ST60 aren't working for the S60, though the discrete on/off commands do work. Also, your RM file would require him to use a cable, which he doesn't have, which is why we've been talking about the 994 manual entry method. It would be really useful if you could try the 994 method, or if you would download this Panasonic TV device upgrade, which is the basis for the recalculated EFCs we've been talking about, that are listed in the thread I linked to a few messages back:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=6902

Upload it to your remote and see if you can get the discrete input commands working with your S60.
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post #1995 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sawfish View Post

I don't see any discrete input commands (HDMI 1, HDMI 2, etc) in that file, and that's what he's looking for. He's saying the Panasonic codes for discrete input that work for the ST60 aren't working for the S60, though the discrete on/off commands do work. Also, your RM file would require him to use a cable, which he doesn't have, which is why we've been talking about the 994 manual entry method. It would be really useful if you could try the 994 method, or if you would download this Panasonic TV device upgrade, which is the basis for the recalculated EFCs we've been talking about, that are listed in the thread I linked to a few messages back:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=6902

Upload it to your remote and see if you can get the discrete input commands working with your S60.

Sorry about that. Didn't realize what was being asked for. But yes. Those discrete codes work with my 42" s60. Imported using a jp1 cable with rmir. Didn't try the manual method.
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post #1996 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by copster30 View Post

Folks, was trying to set up the TV to use HDMI audio out from HDMI 2 (ARC). According to the manual, i should have a Digital Audio Out setting in the Audio settings (above HDMI input setting) but it's not there. Anyone know what could be happening here?
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Matadurr View Post

Go to viera link and make sure sound output is set to home theater. That should do it.

Thanks that did help. However it seems it only works when on the Antenna input. Does not seem to work when trying to use HDMI in on 1 and HDMI out on 2. Maybe this is by design, or maybe I am still not configuring it correctly.

Anyway, no matter now, i've decided to put my Sony HT-CT150 in this room so just routing all devices through that.
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post #1997 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 06:45 PM
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hooray! I did the 981 and *then* mapped to day +_ and it worked!
Sorry for being such a klutz!
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post #1998 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by psrien View Post

I was able to take care of my reflection/glare issue by tilting tv up to a slightly negative angle. Thanks for your help..

Not sure I understand... Tilting the tv up to a slightly negative angle sounds like you are tilting it slightly down... Negative angle up is down, correct?
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post #1999 of 7199 Old 06-08-2013, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by nopedals View Post

hooray! I did the 981 and *then* mapped to day +_ and it worked!
Sorry for being such a klutz!

Good!
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post #2000 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 07:40 AM
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I have a 60s60 and find I have to turn the color down significantly for most viewing because the skin tones are so red, sometimes almost glowing red. I've tried fairchilds settings with the same result. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm considering taking it back.
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post #2001 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 10:35 AM
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The 50S64 was on sale at the Raleigh, NC Costco for $699 today!

Got it home and started running D-Nice's slides and noticed a bright pixel on green and gray and I'm really bummed over it. Not sure what I want to do, but I really wish I could unsee the darn thing.
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post #2002 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jkmach View Post

I have a 60s60 and find I have to turn the color down significantly for most viewing because the skin tones are so red, sometimes almost glowing red. I've tried fairchilds settings with the same result. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm considering taking it back.

It just needs to be calibrated. Try adjusting the tint and reducing the Red in the greyscale (i.e. in Pro settings).
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post #2003 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jkmach View Post

I have a 60s60 and find I have to turn the color down significantly for most viewing because the skin tones are so red, sometimes almost glowing red. I've tried fairchilds settings with the same result. Has anyone else experienced this? I'm considering taking it back.

Could be that A. you are not used to calibrated settings based on rec709 and d65 or B. your set has variance from my calibration and thus you need to get it calibrated.

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings
Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings
HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT660 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60
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post #2004 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 11:26 AM
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Yesterday afternoon I had my 65S64 on for about 1.5 hours and happened to walk up to it with my arm and/or head about 2-3 inches from the screen and I could feel the heat emanating - like a force field! The vents at the top were only slightly warm, so it seems more heat comes out the front than the top. Not really a big issue, especially in a large room, but it's supposed to be in the 90's all week, so I will monitor and attempt to judge how much heat it adds to my house.
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post #2005 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

Could be that A. you are not used to calibrated settings based on rec709 and d65 or B. your set has variance from my calibration and thus you need to get it calibrated.
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Could be that A. you are not used to calibrated settings based on rec709 and d65 or B. your set has variance from my calibration and thus you need to get it calibrated.
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post #2006 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 11:48 AM
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Hey what do you guys think, the 65s60 at 1300(after tax) or the 65s64 at 1500(after tax)? Is the s64 worth the extra 200 bucks for a filter? I have natural light in my room but not much honestly.
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post #2007 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 11:54 AM
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Thanks, but after comparing to the lcd in the bedroom, seems they are pretty similar. Some channels and shows are pretty close to perfect while others are horrible. Don't know if that's dish network or that's just what's being broadcast. It sure is more noticeable on a screen this size.
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post #2008 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nopedals View Post

One small problem I am having. As far as I can tell, there is no discrete off, and no codes for the inputs on the remote (the "last" button has some functionality, but not enough for me since I use all three inputs). The discrete off is no big deal, but the lack of discrete input codes means that there is no obvious graceful way to write macros to switch devices. I am assuming that there are hidden codes that companies like harmony use, but it would be a drag to have to buy a new learning remote.

You didn't say what kind of learning remote you have, but one work-around for the lack of discrete input codes is the two-button method for switching directly to an input (press INPUT then press 2 which takes you directly to HDMI-1 for instance).

The Panasonic consumer models do respond to discrete ON and discrete OFF commands from the Panasonic EUR7636070R remote that came with some Pro models (notably the PWD8UK, PHD8UK, PHD8UK, PH10UK, and PF11UK series). This remote also has a TIMER key that activates the consumer models Sleep function directly (without having to bring up a menu). I have one of these remotes to teach these discrete codes to various learning remotes such as my R40 and MX500 as well as friend's various remotes.

If you have a Harmony, apparently some Panasonic consumer models have the Discrete ON / OFF commands in their database (i think the VT30 is one of em) so you should be able to retrieve these commands when setting up your macros.

900x900px-LL-ac27580e_KGrHqZqYFEy1YLcwQBReH5MsRY60_57.jpeg



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post #2009 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by nopedals View Post

One small problem I am having. As far as I can tell, there is no discrete off, and no codes for the inputs on the remote (the "last" button has some functionality, but not enough for me since I use all three inputs). The discrete off is no big deal, but the lack of discrete input codes means that there is no obvious graceful way to write macros to switch devices. I am assuming that there are hidden codes that companies like harmony use, but it would be a drag to have to buy a new learning remote.

You didn't say what kind of learning remote you have, but one work-around for the lack of discrete input codes is the two-button method for switching directly to an input (press INPUT then press 2 which takes you directly to HDMI-1 for instance).

If you had read the thread, you would understand the guy already said that doesn't work on his S64, and when he asked me to try it on my ST60, I replied that it doesn't work. Pressing a numeric key while the Input menu is up switches to the TV tuner and changes the channel.
Quote:
The Panasonic consumer models do respond to discrete ON and discrete OFF commands from the Panasonic EUR7636070R remote that came with some Pro models (notably the PWD8UK, PHD8UK, PHD8UK, PH10UK, and PF11UK series). This remote also has a TIMER key that activates the consumer models Sleep function directly (without having to bring up a menu). I have one of these remotes to teach these discrete codes to various learning remotes such as my R40 and MX500 as well as friend's various remotes.

If you had read the thread, you would understand that the problem has been solved in a different way that is applicable to all IR devices, not just Panasonic TVs, though I did mention the possibility of buying an old Panasonic remote off eBay in my first reply to him.
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post #2010 of 7199 Old 06-09-2013, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by suckmyditka View Post

Hey what do you guys think, the 65s60 at 1300(after tax) or the 65s64 at 1500(after tax)? Is the s64 worth the extra 200 bucks for a filter? I have natural light in my room but not much honestly.

Sounds like a good deal on the S60. When I was looking last week, they were all $1500. I ended up going for the S64 since it worked out to be the same price as the s60 (with tax), and I got the Costco/Squaretrade 5 year warranty.

But had I seen an S60 for $1300 after tax, I might have gone for that deal. Reflections on plasmas never bothered me. I have two without filter. Plus it sounds like light is not a big issue for you. But if you think any sort of reflections bother you, you should consider the S64. It's not a strong filter. It does work best for overhead light, but it does also help slightly on direct light.
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Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

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