Official Panasonic S60 Series Discussion Thread - Page 88 - AVS Forum
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post #2611 of 7066 Old 07-07-2013, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

I wonder if I should update or clear up my settings. I recently picked up a sound-bar which acts as a receiver/hdmi switch. And now since I am routing both my HTPC (which I used to run at 0-255 and nonstandard in the TV itself) + my cable box (which output 16-235 and had to set the TV to standard) I had to set the TV/HDMI to standard (16-235). Otherwise the settings on one of the devices would be wrong (washed out or black crush).

I hope people who use my settings are at least aware that depending on their source device (blu-ray player, PS3, cable box, etc) they have to set their HDMI setting accordingly. If the device is set to output full range (0-255 RGB) then the TV has to be set to nonstandard on that HDMI port or your black levels will be off.

This is why I recommend you always use a calibration black clipping pattern and make sure the settings are correct.

I just ordered the p60s60 at best buy for $1150, which jumped down to $1300 the other day (although they would match amazon which was always that price). It sucks that going 10 inches is $450 more and it'll come down in price but I'm giving my older TV to a relative. I'm coming from a P50S2 2010 with the proper break-in and d-nice's settings which were fantastic so I'm not expecting to be blown away between the 2010 model to this one but the 10 inches will be nice, that's what she said.

Anyways, I'm a bit confused with your post. On the PS3 should I set the RGB Full Range (HDMI) to limited or full. From a little scan on google it seems that limited is the way to go. Other than that, with the research I did and a post maybe 30 pages ago it looks like the best settings for the PS3 are:

BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI): Y Pb/Cb Pr/C
1080p 24 Hz Output (HDMI): Off
RGB Full Range (HDMI): Limited
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI): On
Deep Color Output (HDMI): Automatic

I think that's correct but maybe somebody else have different opinions. I'm lost on the 24hz output though. When it's on, my Denon AVR info says it's running at 24p but off it doesn't show what hz it's running, like the 48 or 60hz which I think my 2010 TV can do. How do you know if it's running at 48 or 60 is that through the television settings or what? Thanks to fairchild and all others as it took me a while but I read all the pages and besides the buzzing issues which have been beaten to death this looks like a great buy.
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post #2612 of 7066 Old 07-07-2013, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by xx2000xx View Post

I just ordered the p60s60 at best buy for $1150, which jumped down to $1300 the other day (although they would match amazon which was always that price). It sucks that going 10 inches is $450 more and it'll come down in price but I'm giving my older TV to a relative. I'm coming from a P50S2 2010 with the proper break-in and d-nice's settings which were fantastic so I'm not expecting to be blown away between the 2010 model to this one but the 10 inches will be nice, that's what she said.

Anyways, I'm a bit confused with your post. On the PS3 should I set the RGB Full Range (HDMI) to limited or full. From a little scan on google it seems that limited is the way to go. Other than that, with the research I did and a post maybe 30 pages ago it looks like the best settings for the PS3 are:

BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI): Y Pb/Cb Pr/C
1080p 24 Hz Output (HDMI): Off
RGB Full Range (HDMI): Limited
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI): On
Deep Color Output (HDMI): Automatic

I think that's correct but maybe somebody else have different opinions. I'm lost on the 24hz output though. When it's on, my Denon AVR info says it's running at 24p but off it doesn't show what hz it's running, like the 48 or 60hz which I think my 2010 TV can do. How do you know if it's running at 48 or 60 is that through the television settings or what? Thanks to fairchild and all others as it took me a while but I read all the pages and besides the buzzing issues which have been beaten to death this looks like a great buy.

With 24hz output off, the ps3 will output 60z, meaning it will do the 24 to 60hz conversion, which seems to be ideal in this case as it supposidly handles it better than the tv's build in conversion. On the TV, when you press the info button, it will tell you if it is receiving a signal of less than 60hz. Basically if you don't see any mention of hz anywhere in the info hud, then it's getting 60hz.
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post #2613 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

1. The Default settings on the Custom AV mode will be fine.

2. You simply put the images on a usb key, plug it into the tv, and run a slide show using the built in software. You just set each image to stay up for 5-10 seconds, and tell it to never stop.

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Originally Posted by HDTimeShifter View Post

Go into the Viera menu and select slides or video.

Thanks guys. One last question (well, probably the last ever), does it matter if I have other files or folders on the USB drive? Since this will be at my friends house I won't be able to monitor it and I wanted to make sure this will run properly without stopping or getting messed up because of other data on the drive. I was going to use an old SanDisk drive that has the stupid U3 launcher crap on it. Should I just copy the old folder of images and run the images from that folder or put the images on the root of the drive?


Thanks again!

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post #2614 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mustang5o View Post


Thanks guys. One last question (well, probably the last ever), does it matter if I have other files or folders on the USB drive? Since this will be at my friends house I won't be able to monitor it and I wanted to make sure this will run properly without stopping or getting messed up because of other data on the drive. I was going to use an old SanDisk drive that has the stupid U3 launcher crap on it. Should I just copy the old folder of images and run the images from that folder or put the images on the root of the drive?


Thanks again!

As long as the slides you want are in a folder, and are the only things in that folder, it will work fine. It does have to be formatted in the usual Fat32 file format though. NTFS won't work if you have your key formatted that way to hold larger files.
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post #2615 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 07:45 AM
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I am looking at either getting the 65S60 or 60S60 and I will be mainly using it for 60% gaming and 40% movies/TV.

I have seen reports showing it getting around 30ms in the input lag department which is good for a TV of these sizes.

Has anyone connected theirs to a PC? Or done any PC gaming?

I do gaming on both PC and consoles, and when gaming with a mouse and keyboard, you can detect input lag very easily. Especially when it comes to first person shooters.

Thanks in advance smile.gif
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post #2616 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by SoupyFlow View Post

I am looking at either getting the 65S60 or 60S60 and I will be mainly using it for 60% gaming and 40% movies/TV.

I have seen reports showing it getting around 30ms in the input lag department which is good for a TV of these sizes.

Has anyone connected theirs to a PC? Or done any PC gaming?

I do gaming on both PC and consoles, and when gaming with a mouse and keyboard, you can detect input lag very easily. Especially when it comes to first person shooters.

Thanks in advance smile.gif

I have hooked it up a few times and have noticed no different it latency than my computer monitor. So take that for whats its worth.
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post #2617 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

I have hooked it up a few times and have noticed no different it latency than my computer monitor. So take that for whats its worth.

That's cool, have you done any FPS gaming with a mouse and keyboard on it? Did you have any problems with burn in while it was connected to your computer? Thanks for the info smile.gif
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post #2618 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SoupyFlow View Post

That's cool, have you done any FPS gaming with a mouse and keyboard on it? Did you have any problems with burn in while it was connected to your computer? Thanks for the info smile.gif

I have absolutely no input lag issues when I play Diablo 3 on my PC. Obviously that isn't an FPS, but that's all I play atm. Last shooter/FPS I played was Portal 2 and Rage, but I don't feel like installing them again. wink.gif
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Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings

Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings

HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT150 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60

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post #2619 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by SoupyFlow View Post

That's cool, have you done any FPS gaming with a mouse and keyboard on it? Did you have any problems with burn in while it was connected to your computer? Thanks for the info smile.gif

I have done no PC gaming on the set yet, last time I hooked it up was to watch the ps4 e3 press conference stream. I do play console games on it through, and while most games i've played on it have been hudless games (portal 2, last of us, uncharted 3, tomb raider, heavy rain), the few games i have played that do have hud's I have seen no retention beyond the stuff that goes away in 30 seconds of regular content.

Keep in mind though that my brain will not let me play games for more than an hour or two in one stretch (i just get the strong feeling I should stop haha, built in defense mech I guess) so It wouldnt really be long enough for any real IR anyway.
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post #2620 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 08:47 AM
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I know the Contrast setting is generally set to 85 on most calibrations, but is upping it to 87 or 88 reasonable?
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post #2621 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 08:49 AM
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I know the Contrast setting is generally set to 85 on most calibrations, but is upping it to 87 or 88 reasonable?
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post #2622 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 09:11 AM
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I know the Contrast setting is generally set to 85 on most calibrations, but is upping it to 87 or 88 reasonable?

It is fine until you either A. start to get white clipping which will cause a loss of detail and/or B. it's so bright that your eyes begin to strain.

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings

Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings

HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT150 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60

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Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

As long as the slides you want are in a folder, and are the only things in that folder, it will work fine. It does have to be formatted in the usual Fat32 file format though. NTFS won't work if you have your key formatted that way to hold larger files.

Thanks again. It is FAT32.

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post #2624 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 09:48 AM
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OK, I already came up with another question. Is there a recommended time to run the slides and any recommended settings? I guess I never found that information either. I was hoping I would find a thread by DNice like I did for my Pioneer.

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post #2625 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mustang5o View Post

OK, I already came up with another question. Is there a recommended time to run the slides and any recommended settings? I guess I never found that information either. I was hoping I would find a thread by DNice like I did for my Pioneer.

The general concensus seems to be 100 hours minimum, on the Custom picture mode with default settings.
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Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

The general concensus seems to be 100 hours minimum, on the Custom picture mode with default settings.

Great. I can get this ready for her by Saturday night. Thanks!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang5o View Post

OK, I already came up with another question. Is there a recommended time to run the slides and any recommended settings? I guess I never found that information either. I was hoping I would find a thread by DNice like I did for my Pioneer.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1466472/2013-panasonic-settings-issues-thread
See post #183 on page 7 for detailed instructions.
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post #2628 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by xenon9887 View Post

The general concensus seems to be 100 hours minimum, on the Custom picture mode with default settings.

Is 100 hours also the recommended break-in period?
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post #2629 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 12:27 PM
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Is 100 hours also the recommended break-in period?

Depends on what breakin period you are talking about. 100 hours is the break in period before it's worth while doing any form of calibration. Any less then that and things might change enough to ruin your calibration. If you are talking avoid IR, I do believe it is higher than that, a couple hundred at least.
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So I tried D-Nice's settings for the ST60 on my 65S64 and they are just okay. Its lacks a lot in shadow detail and overall brightness. I tried the user settings linked from the first post in this thread, but the colors were really off. A couple of questions:

1. Did D-Nice every release settings specifically for the S60?
2. Is it the same panel as the ST60 without some of the bells and whistles?
3. Has anyone released settings for the S64 or is it so close to the S60 it doesn't matter?

I am moving from a 40inch Samsumg LCD in my bedroom to this. My main TV is a Pioneer Elite 151. Both of those have much better brightness (obvious for the LCD).
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post #2631 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jmgag03 View Post

So I tried D-Nice's settings for the ST60 on my 65S64 and they are just okay. Its lacks a lot in shadow detail and overall brightness. I tried the user settings linked from the first post in this thread, but the colors were really off. A couple of questions:

1. Did D-Nice every release settings specifically for the S60?
2. Is it the same panel as the ST60 without some of the bells and whistles?
3. Has anyone released settings for the S64 or is it so close to the S60 it doesn't matter?

I am moving from a 40inch Samsumg LCD in my bedroom to this. My main TV is a Pioneer Elite 151. Both of those have much better brightness (obvious for the LCD).

1. Did D-Nice every release settings specifically for the S60?

Not that I am aware of.

2. Is it the same panel as the ST60 without some of the bells and whistles?

The two are completely different panels.

3. Has anyone released settings for the S64 or is it so close to the S60 it doesn't matter?

The s64 IS a s60. It just has an anti reflection filter applied. It's effects are minimal.
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post #2632 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 01:09 PM
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How much brighter is the S60 Vs the S30 or ST30? or even the U50 from last year?
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post #2633 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

I haven't tested on my S60 but the 1080p pixel direct mode has one obvious flaw aside from input lag issues. If you enable the mode, it defaults to graphics mode even when the HDMI Content type is set to Auto or Off. As a result you get the very bad haloing and other artifacts from having a very highly sharpened image. (sharpening is just adding noise to the image to give a perception of detail, you want just enough sharpness so that lines aren't blurring into each other.)

As a result, you have to switch it to Photo to get rid of the crazy sharpening effect. As a result of changing to Photo, you then lose any calibration settings you did without using this mode since Photo causes the set to default (non-changeable) to the Native color gamut which causes the colors to be off. Unless you calibrate specifically for this mode and this color gamut, which I haven't. Also the Native color gamut is not as accurate as the Normal, so even if you perform a calibration with it, your colors will not be as natural looking as they could be in the proper Normal color gamut.

Depending on the games, you may not notice the color issues or the extreme sharpening, but it's very very noticeable when browsing the web or just doing things on your desktop on your HTPC.

Here's my input: When I have 1080p Pixel Direct On, I can still set my graphics mode to Photo mode. I use 1080p Pixel Direct On with Photo mode so that the text doesn't look like crap on my PC. If I switch to Graphics, it looks like trash/colors on text are messed up. On both my S60 and S64 it allows me to go to Photo Mode with 1080p Pixel Direct On.

Also, a question for fairchild99 directly: on my PC, I am using Nvidia, and in the Control Panel I don't have it set to RGB, I have it to to YPBCR 4:4:4 pixel format. The TV supports it fine.

Should I be using Standard or Nonstandard? And should I not be using 4:4:4, and use RGB pixel format instead? What is the correct combination for accurate color/image quality?
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post #2634 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SoupyFlow View Post

I am looking at either getting the 65S60 or 60S60 and I will be mainly using it for 60% gaming and 40% movies/TV.

I have seen reports showing it getting around 30ms in the input lag department which is good for a TV of these sizes.

Has anyone connected theirs to a PC? Or done any PC gaming?

I do gaming on both PC and consoles, and when gaming with a mouse and keyboard, you can detect input lag very easily. Especially when it comes to first person shooters.

Thanks in advance smile.gif

I am using it with a PC, and have played several FPS on it so far. Seems fine. I'm using a wireless 360 gamepad but there is no discernable lag. I can test with keyboard and mouse for you tonight. I have both a 42" S60 and a 50" S64.
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post #2635 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HDTimeShifter View Post

Interesting reads.

When I replaced my stock light headlights in my car with HIDs, I wanted the brightest lighting possible since I often do mountain driving in the winter and the headlights can get covered with snow and road crap and there was this really dangerous poorly lit section of I-70 with S-curves. Other owners in my car forum were saying that 4000k was the closest to white and as you go higher, they get bluer and purplish at worst and less bright. I went with 4000k bulbs since they seemed the whitest and brightest to me.

A few years ago I replaced most of my light bulbs in my house with CFLs. The CFLs were soft white, which is actually yellowish like soft white incandescents rather than bluish like the old tube florescents. However some of these bulbs (that replace the globe bulbs in my bathroom) went bad after a couple of years, and while shopping to replace them, noticed that they now have 3 varieties: soft white, daylight, and a third one that I can't remember. Well the daylight (5000k) appeared brighter at the store, but when I got home and installed them, they had a blue tinge. I didn't like the blueness, so when another bulb recently died and I needed to buy more, I bought a pack of the soft white (2700K) bulbs and installed them and they definitely look yellow in comparison.

So I'm surprised they consider 6500k to be the closest to daylight (white), as my eyes tell me that 4000k is the closest to daylight and even 5000k looks bluish. Also the D65 standard uses Europe as the standard while sunlight in the US is probably much brighter and at a higher angle. Having grown up in the DC area, and now living in Denver (approximately the same latitude, but a mile higher), I notice the sun here is much brighter and intense (maybe even whiter?). I have spent considerable time in Pheonix (commuted there for 3 months one summer), and the sun there is even more intense, but I don't think whiter than here.

I really hope when you replaced your lights with HID's you didn't use a cheap ebay kit on your stock halogen projectors and didn't adjust them so that their inaccurate beam pattern is blinding everyone driving around you.
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post #2636 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Disgustipated! View Post

Also, a question for fairchild99 directly: on my PC, I am using Nvidia, and in the Control Panel I don't have it set to RGB, I have it to to YPBCR 4:4:4 pixel format. The TV supports it fine.

Should I be using Standard or Nonstandard? And should I not be using 4:4:4, and use RGB pixel format instead? What is the correct combination for accurate color/image quality?

If you are going to use a high quality renderer like MadVR, then it is recommended to use RGB pixel format in either the Limited or Full RGB 4:4:4 options. This is to prevent the card from doing double conversions since ultimately all modern graphics cards convert to RGB anyway, even if you set the pixel format to YCBCR.

As for nonstandard vs standard, it depends on which format is being output by the card. If it's sending out 0-255 (full range) then you should set the TV to nonstandard. If the graphics card is sending out 16-235 (limited range) then you should set the TV to standard.

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings

Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings

HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT150 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60

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post #2637 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

If you are going to use a high quality renderer like MadVR, then it is recommended to use RGB pixel format in either the Limited or Full RGB 4:4:4 options. This is to prevent the card from doing double conversions since ultimately all modern graphics cards convert to RGB anyway, even if you set the pixel format to YCBCR.

As for nonstandard vs standard, it depends on which format is being output by the card. If it's sending out 0-255 (full range) then you should set the TV to nonstandard. If the graphics card is sending out 16-235 (limited range) then you should set the TV to standard.

Thanks for the clarification.

Also, for future reference for anyone using an Nvidia GPU with the Panasonic S60 or S64, I found a ton of useful information for forcing Nvidia GPU's to 0-255 full range color output here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1444859/setting-nvidia-to-full-range-rgb

Hope that helps! I am going to go test this when I get home and see how it looks.
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post #2638 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 04:35 PM
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Hope that helps! I am going to go test this when I get home and see how it looks.

I'm currently outputting RGB 4:4:4 Limited (16-235) and have my TV set to standard (16-235). There is an extra conversion done with the levels but with a high-quality video renderer like MadVR, I frankly haven't noticed the difference between that way and having the card output RGB 4:4:4 Full (0-255) and having my TV set to nonstandard (0-255).

I'm currently using Limited since now that I'm using a soundbar which has a 3-way HDMI splitter, I need to have all sources at the same levels and since my cable box doesn't have a full range/limited setting, I have just had to compromise and set it that way.

Sony 32" EX400 calibrated settings

Panasonic 50" S60 calibrated settings

HTPC/Sony S5100 to Sony HT-CT150 to Panasonic 55" VT60, Sony 32" EX400, Panasonic 50" S60

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post #2639 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 08:55 PM
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Can brightness be adjusted in the service menu?
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post #2640 of 7066 Old 07-08-2013, 09:11 PM
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I am using it with a PC, and have played several FPS on it so far. Seems fine. I'm using a wireless 360 gamepad but there is no discernable lag. I can test with keyboard and mouse for you tonight. I have both a 42" S60 and a 50" S64.

Cool thanks for the info!
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Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

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