Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 226 - AVS Forum
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post #6751 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Syllogistic View Post

I'm in Australia which is also 230V/50Hz and I've read many reports on Australian forums about buzzing on the E series at least, so I don't think that can be it.

Well I guess that blows my idea LOL. Ohh welll.....rolleyes.gif


Rob
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post #6752 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Contrast 90 will serve you better. IR comes from a continuing static image, not contrast settings with moving video.

Here is a quick primer on what you'll need to do with the disc. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=19645038&postcount=504

And speaking of discs, I recently acquired the Disney WOW disc and am very impressed with some of the sophisticated patterns and with the detailed verbal explanations even more so. It's the best I've seen for the non techie and covers all the bases.

90, really? That would burn images into my brain for years. I don't think I could bare to look at it with such a high contrast setting.

Also, from my personal observations, the more you push a panel, the easier it gets IR depending on the content. For example, a cross hatch pattern on a Panny at 30 fL didn't really leave stubborn IR, but as soon as I switched to service mode, which for some reason increases panel brightness by about 10 to 15 fL and of course defaults to Vivid pushing the set into about 60 fL, that cross hatch was on my screen for about an hour from simply browsing all the service menu options.

Halimali, congrats on your TV today. Let me know if you see any line bleed will you? Thanks!
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post #6753 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 04:30 PM
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Ok so... foam washer between the TV and TV mount rails... and then metal washer between the TV mount rails and screw. Does that sound right?

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post #6754 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cooknl View Post

I had a Thought about the Buzzing, my feeling/knowledge deduces that 90 plus % of the buzzing seems to happen in the USA. I know of 5 people with d's and e's various sizes here in europe None of them have the buzzing problem. Could it be that it has to do with the NET voltage 117 volt 60hz (USA) compared to 230volt 50hz (EU)??
Are they using the same powersupply for ALL continents i wonder??

Anybody any ideas???

Rob

There's lots of complaints in the UK about plasmas buzzing, I don't think you're correct on this one.

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post #6755 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

Found out the blanking brackets are to cover the bottom stand holes when wall mounting. So now I'm just wondering if these ferrite cores are being used by owners...
I'm using one of the ferrite cores. I installed it around the power cable just under where the plug goes into the back of the tv. Not sure if it's blocking any radio frequency interference. RFI can travel up the power cable and create interference on your tv if it's excessive. Also, for those being affected by a buzzing tv, check out this link...http://www.cabletv.com/blog/how-to-fix-a-buzzing-tv/. Read the sections regarding ground loop and overmodulation. You may be surprised to find out the source of your buzzing may not even be tv related..
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post #6756 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:09 PM
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Hi Guys,
I have a quick question for anyone that may know. How do you set up the App playback picture settings. In particular if you are watching HBO GO or Netflix. I have my movie setting set fine for watching satellite tv but when I watch via HBO GO for example, I get some serious soap opera effect and can only imagine that there is a separate picture setting for this way of viewing content and where do you find it?
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post #6757 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:19 PM
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How do you guys have the motion settings and film mode adjusted for Blu-ray and other sources? Since Cinema Smooth doubles the MLL, I imagine some people are avoiding it.

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post #6758 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:26 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Cupstid View Post

Hi Guys,
I have a quick question for anyone that may know. How do you set up the App playback picture settings. In particular if you are watching HBO GO or Netflix. I have my movie setting set fine for watching satellite tv but when I watch via HBO GO for example, I get some serious soap opera effect and can only imagine that there is a separate picture setting for this way of viewing content and where do you find it?

When you're playing the content you can enter and change the settings. I match my regular movie mode values.
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post #6759 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:27 PM
 
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

How do you guys have the motion settings and film mode adjusted for Blu-ray and other sources? Since Cinema Smooth doubles the MLL, I imagine some people are avoiding it.

Off, off and off some more wink.gif
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post #6760 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Moonchilde View Post

90, really? That would burn images into my brain for years. I don't think I could bare to look at it with such a high contrast setting.

Also, from my personal observations, the more you push a panel, the easier it gets IR depending on the content. For example, a cross hatch pattern on a Panny at 30 fL didn't really leave stubborn IR, but as soon as I switched to service mode, which for some reason increases panel brightness by about 10 to 15 fL and of course defaults to Vivid pushing the set into about 60 fL, that cross hatch was on my screen for about an hour from simply browsing all the service menu options.

Hate to drop the news on you but that's pretty much standard +/- 5 for all Samsungs over the last several years. Turn the Cell down to establish a livable max luminance. And for what it's worth, 90 was the setting used at the VE Shootout (also Cell 16). I haven't read that any of the participants were blinded.

I appreciate the calibration tip so I'll give you one - stay out of the Service Menu. And yet another Edit: Unless you know exactly what you're doing.

Edit: the reason your TV was in the Vivid mode is because ALL Samsungs do that after SM entry!!!!! Another Edit: Actually, SM Exit. wink.gif

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post #6761 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:34 PM
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Buzz,

Would a lower contrast and bit higher cell further minimize the ABL effect? I know that is one of the strengths of the set to begin with, but just talking about optimization here.

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post #6762 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

How do you guys have the motion settings and film mode adjusted for Blu-ray and other sources? Since Cinema Smooth doubles the MLL, I imagine some people are avoiding it.

Film Mode 1 for Blu-Ray 24 fps, 2 for video 60.

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post #6763 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Film Mode 1 for Blu-Ray 24 fps, 2 for video 60.

Thanks!

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post #6764 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Buzz,

Would a lower contrast and bit higher cell further minimize the ABL effect? I know that is one of the strengths of the set to begin with, but just talking about optimization here.

The 8500 is new ground for plasma. Normally a setting of 20 (or max on any other plasma model) would be correct but the luminance is so high for anything less than extremely bright rooms that the rules have to be changed.

Edit: lowering the Contrast too much bonks the 10 point control.

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post #6765 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

When you're playing the content you can enter and change the settings. I match my regular movie mode values.
Thanks, my movie mode values= your movie mode values smile.gif
I haven't played anything on HBO GO since the first week I had the TV and can't remember what the setting were then. I will play something on it set to current movie values next time. Thanks again.
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post #6766 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 05:59 PM
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I'm not sure if this has been posted here yet but Samsung is having a promotion through June 15th where you get a free Soundbar w/sub, Wireless Audio System or 29" 720p LED TV with the purchase of an F8500. I picked the Soundbar for my F8500 which will be delivered Friday. Glad I waited until today since I didn't want or need the free tablet they were offering last week but really like the Soundbar offer.
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post #6767 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:00 PM
 
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

...for what it's worth, 90 was the setting used at the VE Shootout (also Cell 16)....

I did notice that and tried to think of the reasons why. I see no clipping at contrast 94 (I do at 95), and the RGB checks out also.
The difference between the basic settings of my amateur calibration and their pro one is 5fL with the same cell (16) but a difference of +4 in contrast.
Would it be possible they reduced contrast to level the fL output with the other sets? I think cell at 15 would have been too low(?)
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post #6768 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

The 8500 is new ground for plasma. Normally a setting of 20 (or max on any other plasma model) would be correct but the luminance is so high for anything less than extremely bright rooms that the rules have to be changed.

Edit: lowering the Contrast too much bonks the 10 point control.

How well does the 2 pt work?

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post #6769 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Hate to drop the news on you but that's pretty much standard +/- 5 for all Samsungs over the last several years. Turn the Cell down to establish a livable max luminance. And for what it's worth, 90 was the setting used at the VE Shootout (also Cell 16). I haven't read that any of the participants were blinded.

I appreciate the calibration tip so I'll give you one - stay out of the Service Menu. And yet another Edit: Unless you know exactly what you're doing.

Edit: the reason your TV was in the Vivid mode is because ALL Samsungs do that after SM entry!!!!! Another Edit: Actually, SM Exit. wink.gif

Right on both accounts. The TV defaults to Dynamic (vivid) when entering the SM. You have to change it to Movie while in the SM menu (SCC Mode.) And the TV defaults to its factory user settings on exit from the SM -- with the exception of the CAL modes that retain their settings.

Larry
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post #6770 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by edgeh2o View Post

Found out the blanking brackets are to cover the bottom stand holes when wall mounting. So now I'm just wondering if these ferrite cores are being used by owners...

There are now over 6778 posts in this thread. If you want to find all posts that contain the word ferrite then simply click on the link "Search This Thread" at the top and bottom of each page. The link will bring up a search box in which you can enter the word ferrite to search for it. Advanced searches are also possible.

If no posts are returned or they don't answer your question then post the question to the forum.
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post #6771 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Hate to drop the news on you but that's pretty much standard +/- 5 for all Samsungs over the last several years. Turn the Cell down to establish a livable max luminance. And for what it's worth, 90 was the setting used at the VE Shootout (also Cell 16). I haven't read that any of the participants were blinded.

I appreciate the calibration tip so I'll give you one - stay out of the Service Menu. And yet another Edit: Unless you know exactly what you're doing.

Edit: the reason your TV was in the Vivid mode is because ALL Samsungs do that after SM entry!!!!! Another Edit: Actually, SM Exit. wink.gif

Huh? I haven't used a Sammy service menu yet, that was Panny...

And, I don't recall giving anyone a calibration tip, only that I can't imagine having to look at this TV with a setting of 90 as that's very bright (PC mode) and I don't think my eyes can take much higher than 70 with the cell light around 15. In fact, just checking now, that's a bit too much eyestrain for me. Oh, I did note an observation though about increased fL causing more "instant" and stubborn IR, was that what you were talking about as a calibration tip? Anyway, once I get a chance, I'm going to check out the difference in PC mode's contrast and cell settings vs TV mode's at the same settings and see if there is any fL difference. I personally think there is but I'd just like to confirm it.

I'm perfectly fine going into service menus, I learned my way around the Sony ones for their XBR CRT TV's and those were quite feature rich. I haven't yet been in the Samsung service menu, I'm interested in checking it out I just haven't had a chance yet. I tend to keep notes and make spreadsheets of the data I'm looking at and their original values.
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post #6772 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:13 PM
 
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Right on both accounts...Larry

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post #6773 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:20 PM
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Larry's alive! smile.gif

Yeah. I just went through my PMs and notice that I owe you a response. smile.gif

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post #6774 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

I did notice that and tried to think of the reasons why. I see no clipping at contrast 94 (I do at 95), and the RGB checks out also.
The difference between the basic settings of my amateur calibration and their pro one is 5fL with the same cell (16) but a difference of +4 in contrast.
Would it be possible they reduced contrast to level the fL output with the other sets? I think cell at 15 would have been too low(?)

Hi Pie - You make a good point, and as I said, 90 +/- 5 for Samsungs.

The 2012 Shootout had all displays at 35 Foot Lamberts peak luminance so it would be "fair". With the 2013 ZT60 outputting 30 FtL vs 59 for the F8500 everything changed and the Shootout became a little, ummmm, disingenuous. None the less, the calibrators have integrity and I think the 90 Contrast number was a trade off for the best way they could work the 10 point although that was not specifically stated that I am aware of. The bottom line is that the new Samsung PDP pixel technology beats everything this year, but, if a customer who is going to view in a totally light controlled environment asks, I'll tell him to get a ZT60. For all other environments, even with one light bulb illuminated, I say get the 8500.

Teaser - I "hear" that it is possible to get the 64 for less than 28 hundred. n/k eek.gif

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post #6775 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Hi Pie - You make a good point, and as I said, 90 +/- 5 for Samsungs.

The 2012 Shootout had all displays at 35 Foot Lamberts peak luminance so it would be "fair". With the 2013 ZT60 outputting 30 FtL vs 59 for the F8500 everything changed and the Shootout became a little, ummmm, disingenuous. None the less, the calibrators have integrity and I think the 90 Contrast number was a trade off for the best way they could work the 10 point although that was not specifically stated that I am aware of. The bottom line is that the new Samsung PDP pixel technology beats everything this year, but, if a customer who is going to view in a totally light controlled environment asks, I'll tell him to get a ZT60. For all other environments, even with on light bulb illuminated, I say get the 8500.

Teaser - I "hear" that it is possible to get the 64 for less than 28 hundred. n/k eek.gif

I still think it can be argued that the F8500 could *overall*match or slightly beat the ZT60 in a dark room based on its better ABL (brighter, purer whites and color), slightly sharper image, and blacks that are very close still and some say 95% identical on material. I've heard the F8500 just has a different look to it probably because of the pixel technology. At least this is based on what some people have told me from the Shootout. I have not seen either to judge.frown.gif

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post #6776 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:38 PM
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Hali, congrats on the new set. Please to enjoy it. With regards to banding and buzz...don't LOOK for it. If you don't notice it while watching regularly, you have nothing to gain by LOOKING for problems. I can't tell you the amount of times in my life I've had a product I've loved, and then someone mentions a flaw I never noticed, then I can't notice anything else. Just sit back and enjoy your new awesome tv.

i couldn't have said it better myself

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post #6777 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:42 PM
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I still think it can be argued that the F8500 could *overall*match or slightly beat the ZT60 in a dark room based on its better ABL (brighter, purer whites and color), slightly sharper image, and blacks that are very close still and some say 95% identical on material. I've heard the F8500 just has a different look to it probably because of the pixel technology. At least this is based on what some people have told me from the Shootout. I have not seen either to judge.frown.gif

In a black room:

1. Less ABL might be a big bonus for the 8500 - Sammy
2. Both TVs at 30 FtL, White will be exactly the same, or should be, barring magic from those new pixels - Tie
3. Panasonic has better color tracking - Panny
4. The Darblet-like effect scores points with nearly everyone - Sammy
5. Black, even Black that close, is quite noticeable in a black room. - Panny //// Edit: better termed would be "more evident when you know what you're lookin' for".

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post #6778 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:50 PM
 
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

In a black room:

1. Less ABL might be a big bonus for the 8500 - Sammy
2. Both TVs at 30 FtL, White will be exactly the same, or should be, barring magic from those new pixels - Tie
3. Panasonic has better color tracking - Panny
4. The Darblet-like effect scores points with nearly everyone - Sammy
5. Black, even Black that close, is quite noticeable in a black room. - Panny //// Edit: better termed would be "more evident when you know what you're lookin' for".
I don't do 100% of my viewing in a black room but when I do, that's where I want it to look the best. That's why I continue to lean toward the ZT60. I'll just have to add a Darblet to mimic some of this enhanced sharpness, and the only negative remaining will be #1 (which I never notice with the content I typically view, blu-ray movies). Thanks for your rundown, very helpful/reassuring.
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post #6779 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

In a black room:

1. Less ABL might be a big bonus for the 8500 - Sammy
2. Both TVs at 30 FtL, White will be exactly the same, or should be, barring magic from those new pixels - Tie
3. Panasonic has better color tracking - Panny
4. The Darblet-like effect scores points with nearly everyone - Sammy
5. Black, even Black that close, is quite noticeable in a black room. - Panny //// Edit: better termed would be "more evident when you know what you're lookin' for".

Doesn't the better ABL help whites and colors though? At least in terms of "appearing" more pure even if they don't measure differently? Something is happening as on my brother's F5300 I see this compared to my ST30 (and yet mine is pro cal'd and his is not).

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post #6780 of 12875 Old 05-21-2013, 07:02 PM
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Doesn't the better ABL help whites and colors though? At least in terms of "appearing" more pure even if they don't measure differently? Something is happening as on my brother's F5300 I see this compared to my ST30 (and yet mine is pro cal'd and his is not).

Excellent question, and the answer may not be measurable. Reduced ABL helps luminance pure and simple, White or Colors. The other question is, if we calibrate to the same peak luminance with some type of patterns and of course there are many "types", which emulates real world viewing the best? zoyd can help out here because he has the numbers on Average Picture Level and it might make a difference (as in + 4 Sammy).

Then there's the observation that one of the Shootout calibrators stated to use APL patterns for the 8500 and Windows on Black patterns for the VT & ZT. Eh, what?

Buzz
THX Certified Video Calibrator

 

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