Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 295 - AVS Forum
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post #8821 of 12270 Old 08-18-2013, 10:56 PM
 
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Not sure how you're going to manage that, since the best return period I know of is 60 days for Best Buy Silver members.
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post #8822 of 12270 Old 08-18-2013, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

Not sure how you're going to manage that, since the best return period I know of is 60 days for Best Buy Silver members.

Already done, picking it up on Sunday
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post #8823 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 03:31 AM
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No repair for me, this is going back.
I am the same way. They go back, I didn't pay this kind of money for something you can repair in my home.

Nothing's Perfect So Stop Expecting It ! Glenee

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post #8824 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 06:55 AM
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So after having no luck finding a good a good lcd (had a Sharp Elite but had to many issues), I think I might be coming back to the plasma camp. I asked before about gaming and IR on this set but still worry about the lag aspect. I really like the image of this set. It's brighter than my old Kuro which is good and the black levels are close enough for me. The input lag seems to be mentioned on every review. How bad is it? Worse than the ST60? I can barely tell any lag on that set but then again I don't play online much or games like COD. I mainly play games like Last of Us, Uncharted, Madden, and Nintendo games with the kids.
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post #8825 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I wish we had a chat room here. rolleyes.gif
Now that is an interesting idea.......
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post #8826 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by YOTR View Post

So after having no luck finding a good a good lcd (had a Sharp Elite but had to many issues), I think I might be coming back to the plasma camp. I asked before about gaming and IR on this set but still worry about the lag aspect. I really like the image of this set. It's brighter than my old Kuro which is good and the black levels are close enough for me. The input lag seems to be mentioned on every review. How bad is it? Worse than the ST60? I can barely tell any lag on that set but then again I don't play online much or games like COD. I mainly play games like Last of Us, Uncharted, Madden, and Nintendo games with the kids.

Just played COD the other morning (only two rounds though). Did it with Game Mode on, though. Lag was imperceptible, but I'm sure it's there. I haven't tried playing games which matter most, like MLB The Show or Hot Shots Golf. Those ones I would be able to tell immediately off the bat, no pun intended.

I haven't tried it with Game Mode off, though. I'll probably be trying it again later today, and I'll report my findings. No matter how bad it is, it definitely isn't entering LCD territory, but at the same time CRT's are just impossible to beat.
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post #8827 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 11:21 AM
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Hey man, just tested the input lag a bit more playing MLB 13: The Show.

I'm sorry to say that there is definitely some bad input lag on this set, whether or not you have Game Mode on. I would actually describe it as "LCD-like," despite my previous statement. If you are picky about it with COD, I'd unfortunately advise that you should pass on this set. I wish this wasn't the case.
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post #8828 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 11:47 AM
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Does having your hdmi go through your receiver when gaming and receiver to tv (ARC) help with the lag, i ask because i dont seem to notice any lag. My receiver a/v receiver detects lag in voice and changes accordingly to match, dont know if im explaining this right but hopefully yall get the point.
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post #8829 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cdjocp View Post

Does having your hdmi go through your receiver when gaming and receiver to tv (ARC) help with the lag, i ask because i dont seem to notice any lag. My receiver a/v receiver detects lag in voice and changes accordingly to match, dont know if im explaining this right but hopefully yall get the point.

no, that won't help. sounds like the receiver is just adding lag to the audio so that it matches up with the lag in the video. this is why lag is really ONLY a concern for gaming. when there's no interaction, the only thing that matters is the sync between audio and video.

the only time i really noticed lag on my f8500 is using it as my HTPC monitor. moving the cursor around feels laggy. and playing Kinect games seem more frustrating. you need to do things before they happen on screen.

my solution was to hook up my game systems to HDMI2 and rename it PC. programmed the harmony and now it automatically goes to the lower lag input for xbox, and wii, and the better video quality but laggy input for everything else.
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post #8830 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cdjocp View Post

Does having your hdmi go through your receiver when gaming and receiver to tv (ARC) help with the lag, i ask because i dont seem to notice any lag. My receiver a/v receiver detects lag in voice and changes accordingly to match, dont know if im explaining this right but hopefully yall get the point.

I feel like that would make lag worse, but I'm not really sure.



But if it makes you feel any better, my family room setup is like this:

PS3 --(HDMI)--> HDMI Selector --(HDMI)--> Darbee --(HDMI)--> F8500

Input lag: Noticeable and depreciable.



My bedroom setup is like this:

PS3 --(HDMI)--> HDMI Splitter --(HDMI)--> Receiver --(HDMI-DVI)--> HDMI to DVI adapter --(HDMI)--> Darbee --(HDMI)--> HD-PVR --(HDMI)--> D7000

Input lag: Imperceptible and playable.



So despite more connections (which I think in theory would make lag worse), the D7000 has much, much less lag than the F8500. I don't use Game Mode on my D7000, either.

Note that games are still playable on the F8500, but some people might not want the kind of lag that it has. Play on a handheld unit or play on a CRT, and you'll feel like things are happening on screen before you press a button. That's how good input lag is on those compared to that of plasmas, including the D7000.
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post #8831 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ShadowDancerXTC View Post

Does anyone know if I can use my f8500 as a monitor for my pc? That would be a lot of real estate lol:)

wouldn't do that full time with any plasma, but for casual use absolutely. I don't even own a computer monitor anymore. had the HTPC hooked up to my previous Samsung plasma, and have it hooked up to the f8500 now. but being a HTPC, i do a lot more movie/tv watching. so i'd say at most i'm browsing the web 50% or the time, often much less. no issues so far, but i'm always aware of what i'm doing. so like i turn off the display whenever i leave the room, or make sure it's not paused on a static image if i don't.
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post #8832 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:22 PM
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Accourding to the eManual, the HDMI/DVI is the best port to use if feeding the F8505 from a Computer (HTPC), why is this? What are the actuall differences?

Also a related question, I currently have the TV in "screen fit" Picture size and notice that the Pixel Orbiter is disabled, which seem to be default. But I am quite certain that during my different testing I have had picture size set to "screen fit" but still had access to the Pixel orbiter. Am I imagining things or is there a way to actually get pixel orbiter to work with screen fit? I'm currently using the HDMI/DVI input, but did before use one of the other HDMI ports, could this affect the availability of the pixel orbiter?
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post #8833 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AVKIK View Post

Hi guys, I went into BB magnolia last night to view this set. I saw it next to a panasonic vt60 and to my surprise, the vt60 Colors were much more saturated. I only had a short time to see so I didn't mess with the settings too much. The salesman said that the settings were all out of the box and i know that sets were on standard mode. Just wondering if I'm missing something with the f8500 that would make the colors looked washed out in comparison to the vt60. Something def didn't seem right. I'm going back for a much longer look next Saturday, is there any major setting I should adjust or look for to increase the color saturation?? Thanks so much.

that's all i'd need to write off your encounter.

if you don't adjust the settings, and bring in your own content, it's a complete crap shoot. it's easy to make any tv look bad, and who knows what some other customers have messed with.
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post #8834 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by improwise View Post

Accourding to the eManual, the HDMI/DVI is the best port to use if feeding the F8505 from a Computer (HTPC), why is this? What are the actuall differences?

Also a related question, I currently have the TV in "screen fit" Picture size and notice that the Pixel Orbiter is disabled, which seem to be default. But I am quite certain that during my different testing I have had picture size set to "screen fit" but still had access to the Pixel orbiter. Am I imagining things or is there a way to actually get pixel orbiter to work with screen fit? I'm currently using the HDMI/DVI input, but did before use one of the other HDMI ports, could this affect the availability of the pixel orbiter?

not sure about the input thing. i always just assumed it would be compatible with the most PC's/vid cards out there and have less chance of not being recognized.

as for the orbiter, I've never seen it available with screen fit, on any Samsung. not like it really does anything anyway. what's the max it moves? 4 pixels?. how many images will have content smaller than 4pixels so that moving the image every changes anything? as somebody else as said before, it only makes the IR look fuzzy instead of sharp. just use the set with a tiny bit of common sense and you should be fine.
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post #8835 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by improwise View Post

Also a related question, I currently have the TV in "screen fit" Picture size and notice that the Pixel Orbiter is disabled, which seem to be default. But I am quite certain that during my different testing I have had picture size set to "screen fit" but still had access to the Pixel orbiter. Am I imagining things or is there a way to actually get pixel orbiter to work with screen fit? I'm currently using the HDMI/DVI input, but did before use one of the other HDMI ports, could this affect the availability of the pixel orbiter?

You might have been imagining things.

Screen Fit literally means that the image is fitting right onto the screen's size, so if you moved it even one row of pixels up/down or one column of pixels left/right. you would be seeing an imageless (black) strip. The pixel orbiter wouldn't do you much good here, because if you're doing that pixel shifting, that means there will be plenty of opportunities for rows/columns of black pixels on your screen.

When it's on 16:9 or something else, the overscan means that you have some image cropped on the sides of your screen that are capable of being shown when the image moves. That's why it's enabled on such a setting, and disabled on Screen Fit.
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post #8836 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

You might have been imagining things.

Screen Fit literally means that the image is fitting right onto the screen's size, so if you moved it even one row of pixels up/down or one column of pixels left/right. you would be seeing an imageless (black) strip. The pixel orbiter wouldn't do you much good here, because if you're doing that pixel shifting, that means there will be plenty of opportunities for rows/columns of black pixels on your screen.

When it's on 16:9 or something else, the overscan means that you have some image cropped on the sides of your screen that are capable of being shown when the image moves. That's why it's enabled on such a setting, and disabled on Screen Fit.

Thing is, as a HTPC owner, I set the TV to screen fit as soon as I hooked it up (anyone with a HTPC know why) and I am certain that I have had the Pixel Orbiter enabled since then. But, can see if I can reproduce. Could have been when i had it set ut via HDMI output from HTPC (which is normally connected to the projector). Could also have been while experimenting with different names for input. Will let you know if I find out smile.gif
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post #8837 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Gotchaa View Post

First issue with F8500 12 weeks in, vertical green line, such a disappointment as this was looking very good otherwise.

hygu9ape.jpg

I had a magenta line and got mine fixed free by Samsung, same exact thing but magenta instead of green. I would call them to get it fixed, it's definately worth it in my opinion unless you have a receipt from a store and you can just swap it out. BTW I have Chad coming Saturday to do his magic on my F8500. biggrin.gif
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post #8838 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by improwise View Post

Thing is, as a HTPC owner, I set the TV to screen fit as soon as I hooked it up (anyone with a HTPC know why) and I am certain that I have had the Pixel Orbiter enabled since then. But, can see if I can reproduce. Could have been when i had it set ut via HDMI output from HTPC (which is normally connected to the projector). Could also have been while experimenting with different names for input. Will let you know if I find out smile.gif

That could be the case... only if the resolution of your HTPC wasn't 1920 x 1080 and your TV didn't cover the whole image in Screen Fit.

I have a feeling you won't be able to reproduce it, though. I bet the computer in the TV has programmed:

If (HDMI && Screen Fit)
pixelOrbiterOption = false;

Anything else might be a glitch, and something we would consider is worth contacting Samsung over in case they need to do some firmware fixes. wink.gif

If you changed your input to PC, changed a setting to Game Mode, changed a preset, changed a resolution, or accidentally pressed a button on your remote, you may have triggered some settings changes like Zoom. For instance, when I change from 480i to 720p to 1080i on DirecTV, it remembers what I last used (Screen Fit, 16:9, Wide Zoom... you name it). It keeps it on the same picture preset, though (in my case, probably CAL-DAY).
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post #8839 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

That could be the case... only if the resolution of your HTPC wasn't 1920 x 1080 and your TV didn't cover the whole image in Screen Fit.

I have a feeling you won't be able to reproduce it, though. I bet the computer in the TV has programmed:

If (HDMI && Screen Fit)
pixelOrbiterOption = false;

Anything else might be a glitch, and something we would consider is worth contacting Samsung over in case they need to do some firmware fixes. wink.gif

If you changed your input to PC, changed a setting to Game Mode, changed a preset, changed a resolution, or accidentally pressed a button on your remote, you may have triggered some settings changes like Zoom. For instance, when I change from 480i to 720p to 1080i on DirecTV, it remembers what I last used (Screen Fit, 16:9, Wide Zoom... you name it). It keeps it on the same picture preset, though (in my case, probably CAL-DAY).

Well, since I was experimenting quite a bit, I honestly don't know but promise to let you know if I find out smile.gif

By the way, speaking of HTPC:s, what settings are recommended if using a HTPC with the F8500? As I also have it connected to a projector, I would prefer to make as many of the adjustments as possible in the HTPC and not on each display, but not sure if that is possible to achieve the best possible image. If this has been discussed before, as is probably has, feel free to point me to that in case this is "old news". Thanks.
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post #8840 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 04:22 PM
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I don't own an HTPC, so I don't know. My PS3 is the closest thing I have to one. Not sure if it has been discussed either.
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post #8841 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 05:43 PM
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I had the exact same green line on my PN64E8000. They're exchanging it for the PN64F8500. Delivering it tomorrow morning.
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post #8842 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

I had a magenta line and got mine fixed free by Samsung, same exact thing but magenta instead of green. I would call them to get it fixed, it's definately worth it in my opinion unless you have a receipt from a store and you can just swap it out. BTW I have Chad coming Saturday to do his magic on my F8500. biggrin.gif
They did not actually fix the screen, they replaced it correct ?
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post #8843 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 09:03 PM
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So after a long bit of researching/viewing I finally pulled the trigger on the 51f8500, I tried convincing myself to go with an LED but I'm in love with the PQ on the 8500.

Was closely debating going with the 55f7100 but decided to take the 8500 with a 5 year protection on it, price was exactly the same with my discount so went with the better PQ. Only concern is IR to be honest, I'll be gaming on it from time to time, probably 40/60 split between gaming and tv.

For anyone that has had the tv for a bit and games on it, can you shed light on your experiences?
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post #8844 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 09:11 PM
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My F8500 has been extremely resilient to IR. It does not come that quickly and when it does it is gone very quickly as well. I used to own the B860 plasma from Samsung and the F8500 is MUCH more resilient to IR than the B860 was. And yes Cleveland they replaced the panel on my tv, I guess I should've said they replaced it instead of fixed it.
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post #8845 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 09:23 PM
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Did you use any break in slides with the tv or just normal viewing?
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post #8846 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LightsOut23 View Post

So after a long bit of researching/viewing I finally pulled the trigger on the 51f8500, I tried convincing myself to go with an LED but I'm in love with the PQ on the 8500.

Was closely debating going with the 55f7100 but decided to take the 8500 with a 5 year protection on it, price was exactly the same with my discount so went with the better PQ. Only concern is IR to be honest, I'll be gaming on it from time to time, probably 40/60 split between gaming and tv.

For anyone that has had the tv for a bit and games on it, can you shed light on your experiences?

I'm about 325 hours on my set, and have done very little gaming on it.

Black levels are awesome, but input lag is about LCD-like. I get IR on my set, but it goes away very quickly. I also pay very close attention and baby my set so that IR doesn't stick around for a long time by running the pixel flipper, varying content, or using 16:9 and the pixel orbiter. There are some gracious games like Tomb Raider and The Last of Us which by default don't have any HUD clutter, so you can play those without IR hassles (although the lag could be better).

Not my preference for gaming despite the awesome blacks compared to my D7000 in my bedroom, and I wouldn't really consider it a gaming TV. That doesn't mean I wouldn't recommend others to get it if they were to game on it, though.

EDIT: Oh, and I used break-in slides for 250 hours. I've since watched a lot of baseball and football, and a few 2.35:1 movies alongside the movies on HBO and Starz. Mix in some House, Jeopardy, my mom's reality TV shows, and video games... and you have yourself what I like to call "varied content."
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post #8847 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 09:33 PM
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I didn't use any break in slides and IR hasn't been an issue for me on either of the 2 F8500 panels that I've had. I run the scroll before I shut it off just to be safe, the tv shuts off after a certain amount of time with no signal so I just run the scroll and shut off my AVR and the tv will automatically shut itself off.
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post #8848 of 12270 Old 08-19-2013, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

I'm about 325 hours on my set, and have done very little gaming on it.

Black levels are awesome, but input lag is about LCD-like. I get IR on my set, but it goes away very quickly. I also pay very close attention and baby my set so that IR doesn't stick around for a long time by running the pixel flipper, varying content, or using 16:9 and the pixel orbiter. There are some gracious games like Tomb Raider and The Last of Us which by default don't have any HUD clutter, so you can play those without IR hassles (although the lag could be better).

Not my preference for gaming despite the awesome blacks compared to my D7000 in my bedroom, and I wouldn't really consider it a gaming TV. That doesn't mean I wouldn't recommend others to get it if they were to game on it, though.

EDIT: Oh, and I used break-in slides for 250 hours. I've since watched a lot of baseball and football, and a few 2.35:1 movies alongside the movies on HBO and Starz. Mix in some House, Jeopardy, my mom's reality TV shows, and video games... and you have yourself what I like to call "varied content."


Yea I know LED would probably be better for gaming but I just can't get over the PQ on the 8500. I have a part time job selling tv's at an electronics retailer so I get to look at the televisions every time I work. I've tried to convince myself to go with the LED but I just couldn't get over the picture quality of the 8500. On certain scenes I did like the picture on the LED better but the vast majority of the content I tested, the 8500 simply blew it out of the water. The warranty covers burn in and such so I guess if worse comes to worst, I can always get it swapped out for an LED down the road.


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Originally Posted by Slickman View Post

I didn't use any break in slides and IR hasn't been an issue for me on either of the 2 F8500 panels that I've had. I run the scroll before I shut it off just to be safe, the tv shuts off after a certain amount of time with no signal so I just run the scroll and shut off my AVR and the tv will automatically shut itself off.

Good to know, this will be the first plasma that I own so not really sure what to expect. Upgrading from an old Toshiba Regza ZV that I bought right after high school.
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post #8849 of 12270 Old 08-20-2013, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by muffinmcfluffin View Post

Black levels are awesome, but input lag is about LCD-like. I get IR on my set, but it goes away very quickly. I also pay very close attention and baby my set so that IR doesn't stick around for a long time by running the pixel flipper, varying content, or using 16:9 and the pixel orbiter. There are some gracious games like Tomb Raider and The Last of Us which by default don't have any HUD clutter, so you can play those without IR hassles (although the lag could be better).

You realize that LCD:s AFAIK are the fastest gaming monitors available to buy today, right? smile.gif

You can reduce input lag by using Game Mode and even further by using PC Mode. That said, if you are a serious hard core gamer, no TV as far as I know are good enough compared to a good gaming monitor. Could be wrong though, my gaming days are quite few these days.
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post #8850 of 12270 Old 08-20-2013, 05:15 AM
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Hi I was wondering if anybody else TV does this, when I go to turn eco sencer on and off the screen does not blink like it used too now you can't even tell that it is turning on and off. Mine used to blink when turning on and off now it doesn't at all. Is this normal .
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