Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 331 - AVS Forum
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post #9901 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 12:17 PM
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anyone have issues with added or deleted media reflected in the built in media player?

I've tried minidlna and mezzmo dlna servers.

When I delete a file it still shows up in the player

When I add a file I cannot see it

This was not a problem on my Samsung C series TV
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post #9902 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 02:13 PM
 
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I just got this tv a few days ago. Is there an actual sweeper built in, or do you use a disc?

System / Screen Burn Protection.
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post #9903 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 03:11 PM
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Thanks!
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Thanks!

so you bought a Samsung plasma! smile.gif
how is the blacks compared to the Kuro?

compared to your Kuro with ABL at 230 how do you describe the ABL dimming on the f8500?

some comparison pictures maybe smile.gif?
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post #9905 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 03:53 PM
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so you bought a Samsung plasma! smile.gif
how is the blacks compared to the Kuro?

compared to your Kuro with ABL at 230 how do you describe the ABL dimming on the f8500?

The black levels are equivalent to my entry level Kuro 5020. It does not match the 500m or any of the Elite models. The Samsung has a bright image. The whites are really great. Hockey looks beautiful. I would say a Kuro with an ABL of 230 matches the Samsung. So for me a win win. Now have a 64 inch for my living room, and my 5020 in my bedroom. Got rid of my crappy 70 inch Sharp LED tv.
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post #9906 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 04:00 PM
 
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sounds great!
i guess the antiglare filter is also better?
does the screen stay black even in daylight?

im thinking of buying a bigger plasma.
either this one or the ZT60

the 5090 stays smile.gif
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post #9907 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 04:11 PM
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sounds great!
i guess the antiglare filter is also better?
does the screen stay black even in daylight?

im thinking of buying a bigger plasma.
either this one or the ZT60

the 5090 stays smile.gif

Has a great AR filter. Stays black during the day. Better than my Kuro. ZT60 is an excellent tv. VT60 is great too. Both blacks are a little better than the Samsung. But for daytime viewing, Samsung can't be beat. Since you have all the calibration equipment, you could probably tweak the ZT60 and VT60 to be fairly bright too. I have read that the ZT60 can be tweaked to near 50fl.
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post #9908 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 04:18 PM
 
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you could probably tweak the ZT60 and VT60 to be fairly bright too. [

it must be an ABL setting hiding somewhere even at those haha
im going to watch these two live first before i make an decision.

great AR filter does alot in daytime no doubt!
thats where the Kuros fail
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post #9909 of 12888 Old 01-11-2014, 04:54 PM
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It stands to reason then, that if a person only watches movies, plasma is not for them.

I can't really imagine saying to a member of my family, that they cannot watch what they want to watch. Luckily we watch a wide range of material and never the same thing for a prolonged amount of time or repetitively.

...I wonder if you could create a slide that was 2.39:1 negative (or a selection of the slightly differing aspects)- white bars with black center and play that for a few hours a night to balance things up wink.gif

You can. I've done it. tongue.gif
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post #9910 of 12888 Old 01-12-2014, 04:37 PM
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I don't mind the cropping. I just don't want 30 percent of my screen wasted on black bars. I don't care if I miss a few inches to the left or right. All the action is happening in the middle anyway, so not a big deal. I'll have to try it on PS4 and see if that has a size setting.

16: 9 with Bars top and bottom, like Prometheus - made my 64" set, actually appear to look like it was 85" across. Fill full screen and you're back to 64"!
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post #9911 of 12888 Old 01-12-2014, 06:33 PM
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16: 9 with Bars top and bottom, like Prometheus - made my 64" set, actually appear to look like it was 85" across. Fill full screen and you're back to 64"!

Agreed. The family watched Bluray's, Great Gatsby and Planes today. No complaints on black bars. Didnt even notice. Everyone just in awe of anything on tv.

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post #9912 of 12888 Old 01-12-2014, 08:06 PM
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This is my 1st plasma, seems like you lot are not concerned about black bars and uneven aging
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post #9913 of 12888 Old 01-12-2014, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hpp8140 View Post

This is my 1st plasma, seems like you lot are not concerned about black bars and uneven aging

When you see black bars aka Letterbox, you are seeing the entire film the way it was supposed to be seen. You can zoom and stretch in various ways but you are either cutting out part of the film or distorting the corners or center. All of this defeats the purpose of the picture quality we were searching for to begin with. I understand what you are saying completely, i was surprised at first also. But as the previous post stated, Letterbox makes the tv look even bigger than it is. Letterbox on the 64" is plenty large. The Great Gatsby today had top and bottom black bars, letter box. No one noticed or complained. Planes however filled the whole screen, more of a wow factor for the kids. I dont watch enough tv to worry about uneven aging. Plus with the rapid advances being made in tv technology, who knows how long we will even have our sets. I bought the Samsung 64" 8500 for many reasons and i must says, it has met all of them except one. The ex-link serial connector is useless for integration into home automation. Still need Samsung remote for access to Smart menu.

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post #9914 of 12888 Old 01-12-2014, 09:27 PM
 
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Originally Posted by hpp8140 View Post

This is my 1st plasma, seems like you lot are not concerned about black bars and uneven aging
For most, I think it's out of sight and out of mind (until it's not and rears its head).
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post #9915 of 12888 Old 01-12-2014, 10:21 PM
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This is my 1st plasma, seems like you lot are not concerned about black bars and uneven aging
Don't worry about it. I also have a Pioneer 5020 which I have owned for over 5 years. I have watched a lot of letterbox movies on it, and it still to this date, there are no issues related to that. It will take thousands of hours of letterbox movies to start having issues. If you watch 2 movies a week with letterbox over 5 years, that will translate to about 1000 hours difference between the middle of the screen and the black bar areas. Considering the half life of most plasma tv's is close to 50,000 hours, you will have to own this tv for a very, very long time to notice it.
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post #9916 of 12888 Old 01-12-2014, 11:04 PM
 
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^It didn't take my 111FD that long to exhibit the aging differences...just a little over 2000 hours on a set that was used predominately to watch cinema (with plenty of 2.35:1).
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post #9917 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 12:05 AM
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Don't worry about it. I also have a Pioneer 5020 which I have owned for over 5 years. I have watched a lot of letterbox movies on it, and it still to this date, there are no issues related to that. It will take thousands of hours of letterbox movies to start having issues. If you watch 2 movies a week with letterbox over 5 years, that will translate to about 1000 hours difference between the middle of the screen and the black bar areas. Considering the half life of most plasma tv's is close to 50,000 hours, you will have to own this tv for a very, very long time to notice it.

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^It didn't take my 111FD that long to exhibit the aging differences...just a little over 2000 hours on a set that was used predominately to watch cinema (with plenty of 2.35:1).

Exactly. I didn't watch very many movies on my TH-50PX60U, and it has brightness all around the frames and an ESPN logo if you look hard enough.
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post #9918 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 12:09 AM
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^
That's unfortunate. I wonder why some sets are more prone to it? I even checked my 5020 again this evening in a completely dark room, and could still not see any difference after 6000 hours of viewing on that tv, with at least half of that watching letterbox movies and lots of ESPN.
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post #9919 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 03:32 AM
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^It didn't take my 111FD that long to exhibit the aging differences...just a little over 2000 hours on a set that was used predominately to watch cinema (with plenty of 2.35:1).

Sounds like the ideal candidate for a series of burn in slides with the 2.35 middle area black.

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post #9920 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 08:43 AM
 
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^ I was thinking about such slides last night.
I can detect a slight variation in the exact pixel placement of the bars vertically. This would have to be accounted for with a selection of slides, and you'd pick the closest fit with perhaps a couple of post-it notes wink.gif

If it were to be full white top and bottom and center black, it would require much less time played than each movie itself, especially if you raise cell/brightness/contrast for the time the slide is played.

I wonder if some pros have already gone this route and worked things out, for instance, is 100% white the best/quickest saturation level to use?
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post #9921 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 09:33 AM
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Well, I suppose with a pattern generator, one can force whatever aspect ratio and render a 100% white, but surely someone has made a slide set at 2:35:1 or similar. Maybe connecTED would know or create one. I don't know of any way to exactly tell what % would be best to age the panel to match specifics. I suppose you could measure a section that is effected and a section that is not, run some slides for a while, then check it again to see if progress is being made?? Just my 0.02.
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post #9922 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 09:40 AM
 
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Easy enough to make the slide(s). I was referring to WTW. Rather than 100%, perhaps 107%?

Also, if there are slight discrepancies between the exact 2.35:1 ratio depending on production and conversion methods, perhaps a set of slides with a less defined edge but rather ones with slightly blurred transitions from light to dark. It would really depend on each TVs phosphor burn circumstance - should you have one.
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post #9923 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 10:01 AM
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huh, Then, I suppose ABL might come in to play if you go beyond the panel's limits at 109%. Maybe, since you can't control ABL, then the trick would be to make a set of slides up to 109% and see if measuring along the way you find where ABL starts to seem apparent, then use whichever produces the most light to age the panel back to evenness. It seems it would be beyond the limits of the content (unless 235 equaled full range white), but then again, it seems that maybe that will push it to clear/age more rapidly. Just thinking out loud. Appreciate the metal gymnastics... time for a nap.... lol
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post #9924 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 07:13 PM
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I have a 64 inch 8500 coming on MLK day. I'm the previous owner of a VT60, which I owned for six months and was fully satisfied with until I ended up getting an ISF calibration and the high contrast setting resulted in burning a HUD logo into the screening after two hours of gaming. I use the term "burn in" because after almost 100 hours of throwing break-in slides at it, it would not completely go away, which is unacceptable for a set for that price/caliber. And I'm only a casual gamer! Can you believe that Amazon still let me return it as defective after six months? I was originally just going to replace it, but then after doing more researching and reading about so many stories of similar problems on the VT and ZT, I ultimately concluded that I needed to look elsewhere and consider the 8500 as an alternative.

The 8500 actually resulted in me having to spend 800 dollars more than the Panny, which was kind of surprising, but I'm hoping it'll be a good experience. I hate that I'm sacrificing some black-levels, but I'm hoping the extra IR resistance and the nice whites will make up for it. The only thing I'm paranoid about while doing research is that horizontal line from the AR filter that people have mentioned. I'm one of those who does not tolerate DSE very well. I had an Elite 151 several years ago and it drove me absolutely insane during panning shots to the point where I couldn't enjoy the TV. I hate playing the panel lottery, but I'm hoping things will go well.

I was initially going to wait and see what Samsung delivered at CES since my budget is pretty high, but since we won't know what they're doing until the middle of the year, I'm hoping to stick with the 8500 for my living room and then keep an eye on their new sets for when I shop for my bedroom set next summer smile.gif
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post #9925 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 07:43 PM
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I have a 64 inch 8500 coming on MLK day. )

Interesting - an MLK day sale!
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post #9926 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Geminis View Post

Hello guys,

I just returned my second set.

Game mode and PC modes have a glitch that the screen refreshes wrongly every few minutes.

Youtube "Samsung F8500 Game mode glitch on Wii" as an example someone posted, since I can't yet post links. This happens with XBOX and PS3 as well.

Anyone experiencing this? is there a workaround?

Also can the buzz/hum on the TV be fixed or do I just need to keep replacing the TV until I get one that does not buzz?

- Thanks

This is the same exact problem I was having with my Wii and Xbox 1 - what hdmi input were you using ? This only occured for me when using HDMI 3 - the ARC input .... I think it has something to do with that... I returned the TV and the new one does the exact same, I'm thinking its more of a firmware issue than anything else ... Inputs 1, 2, 4 don't have the same issue.
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post #9927 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by alettiere View Post

I have a 64 inch 8500 coming on MLK day. I'm the previous owner of a VT60, which I owned for six months and was fully satisfied with until I ended up getting an ISF calibration and the high contrast setting resulted in burning a HUD logo into the screening after two hours of gaming. I use the term "burn in" because after almost 100 hours of throwing break-in slides at it, it would not completely go away, which is unacceptable for a set for that price/caliber. And I'm only a casual gamer! Can you believe that Amazon still let me return it as defective after six months? I was originally just going to replace it, but then after doing more researching and reading about so many stories of similar problems on the VT and ZT, I ultimately concluded that I needed to look elsewhere and consider the 8500 as an alternative.

The 8500 actually resulted in me having to spend 800 dollars more than the Panny, which was kind of surprising, but I'm hoping it'll be a good experience. I hate that I'm sacrificing some black-levels, but I'm hoping the extra IR resistance and the nice whites will make up for it. The only thing I'm paranoid about while doing research is that horizontal line from the AR filter that people have mentioned. I'm one of those who does not tolerate DSE very well. I had an Elite 151 several years ago and it drove me absolutely insane during panning shots to the point where I couldn't enjoy the TV. I hate playing the panel lottery, but I'm hoping things will go well.

I was initially going to wait and see what Samsung delivered at CES since my budget is pretty high, but since we won't know what they're doing until the middle of the year, I'm hoping to stick with the 8500 for my living room and then keep an eye on their new sets for when I shop for my bedroom set next summer smile.gif

You can see the horizontal lines with the tv off and a room light reflecting directly off the screen. You have to move your head just right so your eyes can see it. You don't see those lines with the tv on. I have not seen any DSE and I like watching hockey. The DSE is most likely related to ABL levels. On my Pioneer 5020, I could see the DSE until I went into the service menu and changed it to a much higher value. . One thing nice about the Samsung, the ABL appears to be set much higher and thus eliminates DSE.
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post #9928 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 09:02 PM
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You can see the horizontal lines with the tv off and a room light reflecting directly off the screen. You have to move your head just right so your eyes can see it. You don't see those lines with the tv on. I have not seen any DSE and I like watching hockey. The DSE is most likely related to ABL levels. On my Pioneer 5020, I could see the DSE until I went into the service menu and changed it to a much higher value. . One thing nice about the Samsung, the ABL appears to be set much higher and thus eliminates DSE.

What I was reading about on this model, seemed to be more in relationship to vertical camera pans on bright colors - which is usually when DSE rears its ugly head. Well, or horizontal pans - depending on how the coating is applied. I always have been told it's due to uneven application of the anti-reflective coating. I remember reading about one guy who basically tried to remove the AR coating from his Kuro's screen using a mild chemical cleaner because it was bugging him so much.
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post #9929 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 09:15 PM
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I also forgot to ask:

Is there a preferred mode you guys are using for games? In the past, I've always just used whatever mode I use for movies (i.e. Cinema, THX) and may beef up the brightness a tad). From what I read, it sounds like Movie mode is not ideal for games due to lag issues. But then I'm hearing other reports that the lag issues have pretty much been cleared up through firmware. I only play WiiU.
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post #9930 of 12888 Old 01-13-2014, 09:29 PM
 
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Originally Posted by alettiere View Post

What I was reading about on this model, seemed to be more in relationship to vertical camera pans on bright colors - which is usually when DSE rears its ugly head. Well, or horizontal pans - depending on how the coating is applied. I always have been told it's due to uneven application of the anti-reflective coating. I remember reading about one guy who basically tried to remove the AR coating from his Kuro's screen using a mild chemical cleaner because it was bugging him so much.
That's one theory (and one to which I have subscribed)...I recently read about another fellow with an older panel (an ole' Samsung, I believe, purportedly without an AR filter/coating) that also had the phenomenon.
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