Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 340 - AVS Forum
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post #10171 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 04:54 AM
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Exactly. That is why pixel shift does not work with Screen Fit. If pixel shift worked with Screen Fit, one would see at times the top row, side rows, bottom rows of pixels off at times as the screen shifted slightly. 16:9 zooms in a bit so when pixel shift is on there won't be any rows of pixels that are off.

So does that mean that Screen Fit makes the set more vulnerable to IR? Put another way, how effective is Pixel Orbiter at preventing IR?
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post #10172 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 05:02 AM
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So does that mean that Screen Fit makes the set more vulnerable to IR? Put another way, how effective is Pixel Orbiter at preventing IR?

Screen Fit is not good for TV stations and games, pixels that are bright in specific spot tears much faster then others and with time and time you got burn-in. 16:9 helps reducing problem, it means that you will have not sharp but blurry burn-in...

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post #10173 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 10:08 AM
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So does that mean that Screen Fit makes the set more vulnerable to IR? Put another way, how effective is Pixel Orbiter at preventing IR?

I would not worry about logos on the networks. If you notice, they all dissapear during commercials. So usually, those logos are never on more than 8 to 10 before next commercial. During a 30 minute show, the networks have 6 minutes of commercials. They all are in 2 minute segments. That should prevent IR. The only scrolling ticker and logo that stays on is ESPN. The way to fix that, is when they go to commercial, switch stations. My Pioneer 5020 has an orbiter, and after 5 years, no logo IR with orbiter on. I do not notice the picture being any worse when watching 16:9 with pixel shift on. Of course, anything HD thru cable or even satellite will be compressed, so the picture will be good at best, thus 16:9 with pixel shift will really not degrade it. So just to be safe, I leave it on. However, when watching blu ray, screen fit is always on with no pixel shift.
If you really want to be safe, run a pixel flipper, overnight once a month.

RIP Robin Williams. Thanks for the laughter.
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post #10174 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 11:24 AM
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I would not worry about logos on the networks. If you notice, they all dissapear during commercials. So usually, those logos are never on more than 8 to 10 before next commercial. During a 30 minute show, the networks have 6 minutes of commercials. They all are in 2 minute segments. That should prevent IR. The only scrolling ticker and logo that stays on is ESPN. The way to fix that, is when they go to commercial, switch stations. My Pioneer 5020 has an orbiter, and after 5 years, no logo IR with orbiter on. I do not notice the picture being any worse when watching 16:9 with pixel shift on. Of course, anything HD thru cable or even satellite will be compressed, so the picture will be good at best, thus 16:9 with pixel shift will really not degrade it. So just to be safe, I leave it on. However, when watching blu ray, screen fit is always on with no pixel shift.
If you really want to be safe, run a pixel flipper, overnight once a month.

I planned on doing what you recommend when I get my set on Saturday. What about blu-rays with an aspect ratio that produces black bars? For at least the first couple of hundred hours, should I also adjust the display to prevent them from showing?
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post #10175 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 11:54 AM
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I planned on doing what you recommend when I get my set on Saturday. What about blu-rays with an aspect ratio that produces black bars? For at least the first couple of hundred hours, should I also adjust the display to prevent them from showing?

I didn't watch any blu rays with black bars for the first 200 hours. Early on is when the tv is most susceptible to issues. Burn in can be much harder to get rid of. Burn in usually happens when you leave a logo on tv for hours or days non stop. IR usually goes away by watching varied programming. It's really not that hard to prevent burn in. Just vary your program viewing, which most people do, run pixel flipper every once in awhile, and try to avoid watching one network all the time. Most burn in images i have seen are from those watching ESPN all the time, or leaving a logo or video game on screen for many hours non stop. if you really want to watch blu ray right away, zoom the picture to fill the screen, but doing that really takes away from the image quality. Patience during the first 200 hours is my advice. Not saying that is the answer, but it worked with my first plasma, so why change.

RIP Robin Williams. Thanks for the laughter.
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post #10176 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 12:55 PM
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Hi everyone, long time lurker, but first time poster.

 

I am having an extremely difficult time accurately judging the F8500 at the stores (tons of bright lights, and the damn thing is surrounded by ultrabright LEDs).  So the F8500 ends up looking like crap by comparison.  I want the best picture quality possible and I need some reassurance that this thing stands up well to decently-lit living rooms (Typical house with a few windows and some decent blinds).  

 

How's the viewing experience in the middle of the day in your living room?  Will I miss my bright and punch LED?

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post #10177 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 01:00 PM
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Hi everyone, long time lurker, but first time poster.

I am having an extremely difficult time accurately judging the F8500 at the stores (tons of bright lights, and the damn thing is surrounded by ultrabright LEDs).  So the F8500 ends up looking like crap by comparison.  I want the best picture quality possible and I need some reassurance that this thing stands up well to decently-lit living rooms (Typical house with a few windows and some decent blinds).  

How's the viewing experience in the middle of the day in your living room?  Will I miss my bright and punch LED?

I find the F8500 the brightest plasma i have ever owned. With cell light at 20 it is very bright during the day. At night I drop into to about 16. It rivaled my 70 inch Sharp LED tv. Backlight on that was set at zero, which was the normal setting. Now of course, if you crank backlight to a much higher level on the Sharp, it was brighter, but then it also washed out the blacks and displayed the ugly clouds. I am happy i switched back to plasma, especially the F8500.
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post #10178 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 01:03 PM
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I find the F8500 the brightest plasma i have ever owned. With cell light at 20 it is very bright during the day. At night I drop into to about 16. It rivaled my 70 inch Sharp LED tv. Backlight on that was set at zero, which was the normal setting. Now of course, if you crank backlight to a much higher level on the Sharp, it was brighter, but then it also washed out the blacks and displayed the ugly clouds. I am happy i switched back to plasma, especially the F8500.

 

At best buy, the difference between any LED and the F8500 is staggering.  I asked the kid if I could have the remote to fine tune the brightness (thinking i'd try to even the playing field).  He said he doesn't really know where the remote was.  I'm surely telling you what you already know, but Best Buy isn't a place that lets you get particular.  The plasma was also wedged closely to the back of a set of theater chairs, so there was no comfortable place to view it.  I'm hoping Fry's in Austin has one I can see.  It sounds like the F8500 got a very unfair shake for comparison. Thank you.

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post #10179 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 01:08 PM
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At best buy, the difference between any LED and the F8500 is staggering.  I asked the kid if I could have the remote to fine tune the brightness (thinking i'd try to even the playing field).  He said he doesn't really know where the remote was.  I'm surely telling you what you already know, but Best Buy isn't a place that lets you get particular.  The plasma was also wedged closely to the back of a set of theater chairs, so there was no comfortable place to view it.  I'm hoping Fry's in Austin has one I can see.  It sounds like the F8500 got a very unfair shake for comparison. Thank you.

All the LED are in torch mode at BB. At least if you buy from BB, you have 15 days to try. If you don't like it, they will take it back, no charge.

RIP Robin Williams. Thanks for the laughter.
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post #10180 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by moonpuncher View Post

At best buy, the difference between any LED and the F8500 is staggering.  I asked the kid if I could have the remote to fine tune the brightness (thinking i'd try to even the playing field).  He said he doesn't really know where the remote was.  I'm surely telling you what you already know, but Best Buy isn't a place that lets you get particular.  The plasma was also wedged closely to the back of a set of theater chairs, so there was no comfortable place to view it.  I'm hoping Fry's in Austin has one I can see.  It sounds like the F8500 got a very unfair shake for comparison. Thank you.
Hands down this set is bright enough..Also There is a joystick on tv on the leftside bottom u can get to menu with it,Do not need there remote...gl

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I just bought a Samsung PN64F8500, since the prices on the Panasonic plasmas went through the roof -- the Samsung can't be that much worse, could it? (that was a joke!). I'm a bit of a videophile, but I'm a bigger cheapskate, so it will be 10-14 days to get here since I've too cheap to pay for expedited shipping (picking up on that theme?), and I need to get some stuff arranged for it. I have a rather large inset where it needs to go, so I can't [practically] wall mount it because it would be too deep to see off-angle; it also makes it so that it really isn't set up to be mounted on a stand either since the panel really should be flush with the outer plane of the inset. What I'd like to do is hang it from the top of the inset so that the panel is flush with the cabinet facing. Has anyone tried to hang their panel? If so how did you do it -- did you modify the wall mount?

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post #10182 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 04:09 PM
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I just bought a Samsung PN64F8500, since the prices on the Panasonic plasmas went through the roof -- the Samsung can't be that much worse, could it? (that was a joke!). I'm a bit of a videophile, but I'm a bigger cheapskate, so it will be 10-14 days to get here since I've too cheap to pay for expedited shipping (picking up on that theme?), and I need to get some stuff arranged for it. I have a rather large inset where it needs to go, so I can't [practically] wall mount it because it would be too deep to see off-angle; it also makes it so that it really isn't set up to be mounted on a stand either since the panel really should be flush with the outer plane of the inset. What I'd like to do is hang it from the top of the inset so that the panel is flush with the cabinet facing. Has anyone tried to hang their panel? If so how did you do it -- did you modify the wall mount?

How deep is the "inset" that you mention? Are you using a console of piece of furniture presently for a different display? Is the ceiling in the "inset" parallel to the floor? Are the ceiling joist substantial enough for a "hanging mount"? There's many options and yours shouldn't be that difficult I wouldn't think.
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post #10183 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 10:26 PM
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At best buy, the difference between any LED and the F8500 is staggering.

The BB Magnolia I went to had the 55" F8000 LED and 51" F8500 in the side room with the surround sound equipment and the LED wasn't even enjoyable compared to the plasma on any type of material.
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post #10184 of 12417 Old 02-05-2014, 10:52 PM
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How deep is the "inset" that you mention? Are you using a console of piece of furniture presently for a different display? Is the ceiling in the "inset" parallel to the floor? Are the ceiling joist substantial enough for a "hanging mount"? There's many options and yours shouldn't be that difficult I wouldn't think.

 

The inset is part of my built-in cabinets, which span the width of my family room (It can't be moved). The inset is 23 inches deep (back of inset to front plane of the cabinet facing), 64 inches wide, and 62 inches high (floor to top of cabinet inset). The house was built back when projection TVs needed to be a little deeper to be installed. The top of the inset, which is part of the cabinet is substantial, and would easily support two load points of less than 50Lb each (weight of the panel/ two pick-up points). What I'm thinking right now is to build a cabinet that slides into the bottom of the inset which is 24 inches high (or so). I suppose I could just put the TV on the lower cabinet, but was thinking two things: 1) I'd like the TV to be flush with the outside, and I'd like the panel to be centered in the hole (aesthetically speaking). I was figuring the easiest way to do that was to suspend the panel from above. I suppose, I could just set the panel on the lower cabinet, and I may yet do that, but the panel would no longer be flush then.  Maybe I'll start out that way and hang it if I don't like it.

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post #10185 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 07:37 AM
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The inset is part of my built-in cabinets, which span the width of my family room (It can't be moved). The inset is 23 inches deep (back of inset to front plane of the cabinet facing), 64 inches wide, and 62 inches high (floor to top of cabinet inset). The house was built back when projection TVs needed to be a little deeper to be installed. The top of the inset, which is part of the cabinet is substantial, and would easily support two load points of less than 50Lb each (weight of the panel/ two pick-up points). What I'm thinking right now is to build a cabinet that slides into the bottom of the inset which is 24 inches high (or so). I suppose I could just put the TV on the lower cabinet, but was thinking two things: 1) I'd like the TV to be flush with the outside, and I'd like the panel to be centered in the hole (aesthetically speaking). I was figuring the easiest way to do that was to suspend the panel from above. I suppose, I could just set the panel on the lower cabinet, and I may yet do that, but the panel would no longer be flush then.  Maybe I'll start out that way and hang it if I don't like it.

If the inset area is open above or around the sides or rear it seems doable, in various ways, as you & others mentioned.

However, if the inset is closed off, I would vent it very well. along the top, right over the TV's top & back vent holes.

Especially if the top of the set ends up near a closed surface.

These sets generate a large amount of heat!

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post #10186 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 09:35 AM
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I just bought a Samsung PN64F8500, since the prices on the Panasonic plasmas went through the roof -- the Samsung can't be that much worse, could it? 

 

I know you were joking...but seriously...I love the Samsung F8500 far more than the Panasonic ZT60 it replaced.   Much better picture, I think.

 

 

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It sounds like the F8500 got a very unfair shake for comparison.

 

Exactly.  The F8500 is a torch.  Very bright.  Very sharp.  Fantastic Black Levels.

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post #10187 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kennyandersen View Post

I just bought a Samsung PN64F8500, since the prices on the Panasonic plasmas went through the roof -- the Samsung can't be that much worse, could it? (that was a joke!). I'm a bit of a videophile, but I'm a bigger cheapskate, so it will be 10-14 days to get here since I've too cheap to pay for expedited shipping (picking up on that theme?), and I need to get some stuff arranged for it. I have a rather large inset where it needs to go, so I can't [practically] wall mount it because it would be too deep to see off-angle; it also makes it so that it really isn't set up to be mounted on a stand either since the panel really should be flush with the outer plane of the inset. What I'd like to do is hang it from the top of the inset so that the panel is flush with the cabinet facing. Has anyone tried to hang their panel? If so how did you do it -- did you modify the wall mount?

I hope you are joking. The 64F8500 won the flat panel shoot out last year. One great set.

I had a cabinet that held a 55" LED set on the inside and wanted to go bigger and the only way was to place the TV on the outsie of the cabinet.

Here is a photo of the 55" TV on the inside of the cabinet and duct tape indicating where the new set will be placed.




The cabinet was 24" deep. So, I built a wall using 2x12's on the inside of the cabinet, mounted an articulating TV mount and hung the set which now hangs on the outside of the cabinet. If I want, I can pull the set about 15" away from the cabinet to view from a differnt angle or work inside the cabinet behind the TV.




It looks fantastic. I have had a couple neighbors ask me to help them do the same.

Because the set is a plasma and a lot warmer then my old LED, I placed four 120mm cooling fans on the top of the TV's heat register to help keep the TV cooler and heat from building up inside the cabinet
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post #10188 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 11:05 AM
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If the inset area is open above or around the sides or rear it seems doable, in various ways, as you & others mentioned.

However, if the inset is closed off, I would vent it very well. along the top, right over the TV's top & back vent holes.

Especially if the top of the set ends up near a closed surface.

These sets generate a large amount of heat!

I was thinking about that. It is NOT open; however, there will be a 3 inch gap at the top, and a 3 inch gap on either side. The stand doesn't leave much of a gap at the bottom when installed, though if I hung it that area would be clear to draw air in at the bottom. I suspect that this won't be enough cooling though, but the suspended condition would be better than the stand. Still, my guess is it won't be enough. I would hope I could find some REALLY quiet fans to install there. I wonder how many I've going to need, or in other words how much air I would need to move. Additionally, with regard to fan noise, questions come to mind such as would it be better to run 3 fans at 1/3-1/2 power or 1 fan at full power. How do you throttle the fans anyway? Is there a USB on the TV that would support a fan? I would think most of them are run off a computer power supply. I am VERY open to input on this topic! Anyone done that and been happy with their setup?

 

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Originally Posted by Ronald Epstein View Post
 

 

I know you were joking...but seriously...I love the Samsung F8500 far more than the Panasonic ZT60 it replaced.   Much better picture, I think.

 

 

I was joking -- even mocking if you will, some of the craziness. I used to be heavily into audio, and it was the same thing. People would get so wound up about stuff, but in the end, your mind is a pretty powerful device for compensating when things aren't ideal. Wear a pair of amber goggles (or dark tinted ones for that matter) around for an hour and then take them off! It's kind of freakish as you mind has already started to compensate for the tint! That's why you have to put the panels side-by-side because the difference IS very subtle! I think your brain has the ability to adjust to the panel output. It's been shown over and over that psycho -acoustics is as big of a deal with regard to how sound is perceived as ACTUAL acoustics! I think it is the same with vision (of course there are always a few exceptions -- individuals that really have the ability to perceive the difference, but I suspect that they are a very small percentage -- even among those that are 'serious' about it). So plug in and enjoy -- they are all very good (and certainly to my mind the Panasonic is not worth $900 more bucks!)!

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post #10189 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 11:30 AM
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!!!!! POSSIBLE F8500 PLASMA BUZZ FIX !!!!

After about 4 months of putting up with an annoying audible low buzz on my replacement 60F8500,
& since I had to pull out the TV & component stands to install my Oppo 103D,
a friend came over to help, I decided to take it off the stand & raise the set up
a bit by putting it on the TV stand's built-in Vesa mount assembly.

Well!! after doing that, did it ever start to buzz VERY loud, like a wharehouse flourecent
fixture's ballast going bad!! From the top left corner, when facing the rear, from my friend gripping that corner when moving the set.
This was a totally new buzz & from a new area.

!!!! THE FIX !!!!

So I went around the back metal pannel, pushing with a finger or squeesing the bevel in/out/towards the panel, on different areas
all around the back &
I found out by doing that, I could get the buzzes to stop or I could actually initiate a new buzz or increase or decrease existing buzzes
all around the back. I took a Philips screwdriver & loosened or tightened the screws, sometimes squeezing the bevel or metal cover or some combination
of the two, or sometimes just backing the screw out then in without touching the set. I had to play around with that in different areas.
sometimes when I loosened/tightened a screw, it would cause a buzz from an adjacent area. Some screws needed to be tightened more, some had to be backed off a bit.

!!!! THE RESULT !!!!

I now have a virtually buzz free set!! Any buzzes that are remaining,
are so low, they are only heard with ear placed a few inches from set.



I'm not surprised, as Samsung itself since ~2009 have offered a warranty kit with gaskets or plastic washers for their plasmas.
I came across many instances of this when researching my F8500 purchase - surprised I never considered this until now

Good luck & hopes this helps others!
So in addition to tweaking our settings, some have to tweak/tune the back panels as well.

I played around a bit last night and I could not get the BUZZ to lower at all. Only one screw out caused a new buzz, and that went back in fast. smile.gif

My level is acceptable and only noticeable when muted and my ear pointed at the TV. (Hear it from back wall actually) But I'll likely play around again and see if I can lessen it a bit.

Thanks for the idea Doug, I haven't given up.


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post #10190 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 11:48 AM
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I hope you are joking. The 64F8500 won the flat panel shoot out last year. One great set.

I had a cabinet that held a 55" LED set on the inside and wanted to go bigger and the only way was to place the TV on the outsie of the cabinet.

Here is a photo of the 55" TV on the inside of the cabinet and duct tape indicating where the new set will be placed.




The cabinet was 24" deep. So, I built a wall using 2x12's on the inside of the cabinet, mounted an articulating TV mount and hung the set which now hangs on the outside of the cabinet. If I want, I can pull the set about 15" away from the cabinet to view from a differnt angle or work inside the cabinet behind the TV.




It looks fantastic. I have had a couple neighbors ask me to help them do the same.

Because the set is a plasma and a lot warmer then my old LED, I placed four 120mm cooling fans on the top of the TV's heat register to help keep the TV cooler and heat from building up inside the cabinet

 

I'm an engineer, and I will give you kudos for a nice solution given a very difficult problem. That certainly gives me a couple of ideas! Any tips on which fans might be quiet, yet move sufficient air?

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post #10191 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 12:25 PM
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I played around a bit last night and I could not get the BUZZ to lower at all. Only one screw out caused a new buzz, and that went back in fast. smile.gif

My level is acceptable and only noticeable when muted and my ear pointed at the TV. (Hear it from back wall actually) But I'll likely play around again and see if I can lessen it a bit.

Thanks for the idea Doug, I haven't given up.


KC

Did you try tightening ALL the screws? (By that I mean snugged up, not torqued!)
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post #10192 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 12:34 PM
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Did you try tightening ALL the screws? (By that I mean snugged up, not torqued!)


I sure did, none really needed tightening though. I must have loosened every screw at one point and retightened them. All really tight now.

Did you also find you could get less buzzing by adjusting the torque in different places?



KC
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I found this fan:

 

Noctua 140 mm NF-A14 ULN, which is supposed to be very quiet. 140 mm so it can move some air without being noisy. I was thinking to get 4 of them.

 

I also found this controller:

Silenx External 4 Channel Fan Controller with AC \ DC Adapter, which can power 4 fans.

 

However, I think the fan comes with some resistors so that you can set the speed level (low level is quieter), So I think I could get by with a power supply rather than a controller, but I wouldn't need a high-powered on such as a PC power supply, so I'm not sure where to get it. I think I will order the fans and then work on the power supply. Any suggestions? or just go with the controller? One dude says that he actually uses it for his audio system cooling, but stated that he has to replace it about once a year because it's a bit wimpy...

 

Does the Samsung panel have a switched 110V power output?

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post #10194 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kennyandersen View Post

I'm an engineer, and I will give you kudos for a nice solution given a very difficult problem. That certainly gives me a couple of ideas! Any tips on which fans might be quiet, yet move sufficient air?

I might have gone over board with fans but I do fear heat which can kill electronics.

The cabinet is tall with a section for the TV and an above section for all the electronics.




On the TV's top heat register, I have twist tied four 120mm Noctua NF-S12A FLX fans. The FLX means they have a variable speed. I run all the fans I have at slow speed. The four fans pull cool into the TV's bottom register, through the TV and out the top register.

In the top ceiling of the TV cabinet I have two 140mm Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans to pull the TV's heat into the cabinet above. In the ceiling of that cabinet (electronic cabinet), I have three Noctua fans drawing any heat out of the entire cabinet into the attic.

All six of the fan in the TV's section are connected to a thermostat that is connected the the hottest part of the F8500 which is where the TV's main circuitry is. When the TV hits 85 degrees all six fans turn on. When the above electronic cabinet hits 85 degrees those three fans turn on for a total of nine fans running if/when the entire cabinet gets hot.

What I have found is the above electronic cabinet fans rarely turn on. The only time the three have turned on is when it is summer, temperature out doors is over 106 degrees and the air conditioning is not on and the home is around 88-90 degrees. If that happens, I turn on the home air conditioner and the top three fans turn off with in a couple minutes indicating that the electronic cabinet is now below 85 degrees.

The six fans in the TV's cabinet will always turn on in about 5-10 minutes of the TV going on and stay on until the TV has been shut down for the evening.

I also have an alarm thermostat which monitors both the TV itself and the above electronic cabinet. If the TV hits 100 degrees, an alarm and flashing light goes off letting me know the TV has hit 100 degrees. Samsung has told me and it is in the manual that a sustained temperature of the TV of over 104 degrees can harm it.

Only twice has the alarm turned on, indication the TV has reached 100 degrees and that was in the summer with over 106 degrees out side. When I turn on the air conditioner, in a couple few minutes the alarm shuts off.

Now, regarding noise from the fans. I NEVER hear any of the fans while watching TV. Six fans are always on and three more will turn on but only under extremely rare occasions.

The ONLY time I can make out any fan noise is when the entire home has gone to bed, it is dark in the room, the TV is off, six fans are still running cooling the TV down to below 85 degrees and I listen. Then and only then can I make out a soft swirl of the fans but I have to be listening for it. When I get up and start moving around, the noise is no longer noticeable.

I might have gone over board because I had nothing to do while waiting for the TV to be delivered. It was fun plus I keep a cool TV cool.


m
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Hi everyone, long time lurker, but first time poster.

I am having an extremely difficult time accurately judging the F8500 at the stores (tons of bright lights, and the damn thing is surrounded by ultrabright LEDs).  So the F8500 ends up looking like crap by comparison.  I want the best picture quality possible and I need some reassurance that this thing stands up well to decently-lit living rooms (Typical house with a few windows and some decent blinds).  

How's the viewing experience in the middle of the day in your living room?  Will I miss my bright and punch LED?

I do not understand why so many consider super bright a criteria for a quality picture. Too bright hurts the eyes and is unnatural I have had an E7000 for the last year. it looks dim in stores next to the LEDs. But I can say in my family room it is very nice. I have a big bay window and skylights and even in the day time during the summer I have no issues seeing the show. The plasmas are plenty bright and blow away the LEDs for black level, motion control and color accuracy. You will not be disappointed IMO buying a high end plasma. I has had zero IR issues by the way
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I do not understand why so many consider super bright a criteria for a quality picture. Too bright hurts the eyes and is unnatural I have had an E7000 for the last year. it looks dim in stores next to the LEDs. But I can say in my family room it is very nice. I have a big bay window and skylights and even in the day time during the summer I have no issues seeing the show. The plasmas are plenty bright and blow away the LEDs for black level, motion control and color accuracy. You will not be disappointed IMO buying a high end plasma. I has had zero IR issues by the way

Keep in mind, I'm not saying brighter is better.  I am, however, saying that it's very hard to appreciate a plasma screen when surrounded by bright punchy LEDs.  I tend to go for the girl-next-door types, but if you stick one of them in a group of Sports Illustrated swimsuit models, it might be tough to appreciate her.  That's why this particular Best Buy wasn't doing Samsung's plasma any favors.

 

I really think you're on the mark about the plasmas.  I think I will enjoy the F8500 much more than a comparable LED, and unless my living room is a greenhouse I don't think I'll have any issues.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimShaw View Post


I might have gone over board with fans but I do fear heat which can kill electronics.

The cabinet is tall with a section for the TV and an above section for all the electronics.




On the TV's top heat register, I have twist tied four 120mm Noctua NF-S12A FLX fans. The FLX means they have a variable speed. I run all the fans I have at slow speed. The four fans pull cool into the TV's bottom register, through the TV and out the top register.

In the top ceiling of the TV cabinet I have two 140mm Noctua NF-A14 FLX fans to pull the TV's heat into the cabinet above. In the ceiling of that cabinet (electronic cabinet), I have three Noctua fans drawing any heat out of the entire cabinet into the attic.

All six of the fan in the TV's section are connected to a thermostat that is connected the the hottest part of the F8500 which is where the TV's main circuitry is. When the TV hits 85 degrees all six fans turn on. When the above electronic cabinet hits 85 degrees those three fans turn on for a total of nine fans running if/when the entire cabinet gets hot.

What I have found is the above electronic cabinet fans rarely turn on. The only time the three have turned on is when it is summer, temperature out doors is over 106 degrees and the air conditioning is not on and the home is around 88-90 degrees. If that happens, I turn on the home air conditioner and the top three fans turn off with in a couple minutes indicating that the electronic cabinet is now below 85 degrees.

The six fans in the TV's cabinet will always turn on in about 5-10 minutes of the TV going on and stay on until the TV has been shut down for the evening.

I also have an alarm thermostat which monitors both the TV itself and the above electronic cabinet. If the TV hits 100 degrees, an alarm and flashing light goes off letting me know the TV has hit 100 degrees. Samsung has told me and it is in the manual that a sustained temperature of the TV of over 104 degrees can harm it.

Only twice has the alarm turned on, indication the TV has reached 100 degrees and that was in the summer with over 106 degrees out side. When I turn on the air conditioner, in a couple few minutes the alarm shuts off.

Now, regarding noise from the fans. I NEVER hear any of the fans while watching TV. Six fans are always on and three more will turn on but only under extremely rare occasions.

The ONLY time I can make out any fan noise is when the entire home has gone to bed, it is dark in the room, the TV is off, six fans are still running cooling the TV down to below 85 degrees and I listen. Then and only then can I make out a soft swirl of the fans but I have to be listening for it. When I get up and start moving around, the noise is no longer noticeable.

I might have gone over board because I had nothing to do while waiting for the TV to be delivered. It was fun plus I keep a cool TV cool.


m

What do you use as your power source/transformer for the fans. Which thermal switch did you use, and how did you wire it all together -- I guess at temp it closes, so they are 'on' all the time, but the circuit only closes when it gets at temperature? I was thinking the 4 140mm Noctua NF-A14 ULNs in the top of my cabinet, which is open to the room, would be enough. The electrical equipment is actually below the TV in my case, but there is no back to the Cabinet where the equipment is located, so the air should flow through there well. It could be a couple of weeks before the TV gets here, so I have time to do it now.

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The Samsung HW-F450 sound bar and F8500: I have been told that if I use one of the HDMI inputs on the TV to connect the sound bar, with an HDMI cable from the output of the SB, instead of a optical cable, "AnyNet" will sync the volume control and on/off functions of the sound bar & tv to the Samsung remote that comes with the TV. Can anyone confirm this.
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Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post

If nobody else answers before the end of the weekend, I'll let you know.

I have the HW-F550 sound bar (HW-450 dressed up and with a bigger subwoofer), and I am planning to hook it up just as you describe. Samsung F8500 not going to be here until Saturday, so I may not know until Sunday if this will work as you and I both hope it works.

Not sure about the HW-F450, but HW-F550 does - that is, once the soundbar is synced through HDMI, you won't need the soundbar remote. However, keep in mind that you'll still need the soundbar remote for advanced functions. The only difference between the HW-F450 and HW-F550 is that of the total output and the HW-F550 is slimmer/shorter. So you should be good to go.
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post #10199 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 08:25 PM
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I have been away for a while and just noticed that there are recents posts about adding fans to F8500s. The pictures and info from my April 2013 post may be of interest to some: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463454/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/2610#post_23205805

The number, size, and location of the fans was the result of careful consideration. The result is silent cooling of my PN60F8500 to near room temperature. Normally the fanless convection cooling of the F8500s is adequate. There are circumstances when they can run hot like:

During break-in with slides,

In an enclosure without the 4" recommended gap around the screen,

Wall mounted close to the wall with an EVO Kit attached.
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post #10200 of 12417 Old 02-06-2014, 08:52 PM
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I have been away for a while and just noticed that there are recents posts about adding fans to F8500s. The pictures and info from my April 2013 post may be of interest to some: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463454/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/2610#post_23205805

The number, size, and location of the fans was the result of careful consideration. The result is silent cooling of my PN60F8500 to near room temperature. Normally the fanless convection cooling of the F8500s is adequate. There are circumstances when they can run hot like:

During break-in,

In an enclosure without the 4" recommended gap around the screen,

Wall mounted close to the wall with an EVO Kit attached.


yeah, I actually read through that. My problem is I don't have the 4 inches all the way around and I'm looking to remedy that with some fans in the cabinet. I'll put a thermal switch is so that it doesn't even come on unless it actually gets hot. I think that should do it without too much hassle or expenditure!

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