Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 408 - AVS Forum
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post #12211 of 12313 Old 06-19-2014, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cyberized View Post
QUESTION about using my A/V Receiver for Audio from/thru DTV and also from the 64F8500 [with DTV OFF]?


I presently Turn OFF the Sound built into my HDTV and rely on my A/V Receiver for ALL Audio.......there must be a way to set this up to send the Audio Signals from just the TV [w/o DTV ON] to the A/V Receiver too. IF so.......PLEASE tell me how to use the built in Setup[s] to do this!
I would like to, just for example, play Music Videos [APPs], thru my A/V Receiver rather than just the inferior speaker system in the TV itself.


Thanks, michael
I ran an optical/toslink(?) connector from my display's digital audio/optical out to my AVR's optical in and set that as my TV input. Now whenever I watch anything over the air I turn my receiver
on and set the input as TV and it plays through my AVR speakers. I didn't have to change any settings on tv itself either. It works intrinsically but I do have to turn my tv set's volume all the way down to avoid weird echo.
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post #12212 of 12313 Old 06-19-2014, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by amazingmuzmo View Post
Well after some extensive testing, I've come to the following conclusions about the input lag on this set:

No "PC" name input, no game mode:

Average input lag - 120 ms

No "PC" name input, game mode on:

Average input lag - 80 ms

"PC" input name:

Average input lag - 65 ms


It seems, for my set at least (firmware 1119), the PC input name juuuuuust slightly decreases the input lag, not very much though.
THANK YOU for doing this. you're results seem to mirror mine(comparatively, as obviously I was using a different reference monitor). I had about a 15ms difference between game mode and pc mode as well. it's also nice to know the pc name trick still worked on fw 1119. I honestly didn't know when it changed, as I didn't pay attention to my gaming preset between about 1118 and 1120.


it really is a shame they got rid of the pc name trick. I preferred it for gaming because of the lower input lag, but also because I could set sharpness to an appropriate level(I still find sharpness set at 0 to be too high), and I experienced some screen tearing on some games with game mode only. if for no other reason, I at least liked that I had the choice.
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post #12213 of 12313 Old 06-19-2014, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Watching sports is a doubled edge knife on a plasma. You'll get better motion than on a LCD but with the static numbers on the screen you will eventually burn it in if you watch a lot of sports. You probably already know that with your S60. Another way to look at it is if you tear it up, just get another set. Life's too short to worry about the little stuff.
has anybody ever actually had a score 'burn in'?


the stations I watch seem to rarely even put the score up these days, and I'm positive it would take about a week before anything got 'burned it' to my plasma... so even if they left the score up all the time, the commercial breaks would wash away any minor IR long before it was burned in.
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post #12214 of 12313 Old 06-19-2014, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
THANK YOU for doing this. you're results seem to mirror mine(comparatively, as obviously I was using a different reference monitor). I had about a 15ms difference between game mode and pc mode as well. it's also nice to know the pc name trick still worked on fw 1119. I honestly didn't know when it changed, as I didn't pay attention to my gaming preset between about 1118 and 1120.


it really is a shame they got rid of the pc name trick. I preferred it for gaming because of the lower input lag, but also because I could set sharpness to an appropriate level(I still find sharpness set at 0 to be too high), and I experienced some screen tearing on some games with game mode only. if for no other reason, I at least liked that I had the choice.
No problem. The monitor I used (Asus vg248qe) is very well known for being one of the best in terms of input lag and is used by many professionals in various fields. If there is a monitor I would consider to be a reference 0 point (even though it never will actually exist), it would be the one I tested with. Thus I am fairly confident with these numbers.

It's a shame that Samsung took an option away from the consumers with a firmware update, a move I feel should never be taken. Unfortunately this means that I will not be updating my set from it's current firmware for fear of losing the PC name trick. Other than that small qualm, I'm loving the set so far. Burning the set in with slides now (in between watching How to Train Your Dragon and a few hours of Modern Family haha).
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post #12215 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 07:39 AM
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I wonder what Samsung's reasoning was for removing the PC name trick. Seems odd that they would have done this.
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post #12216 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by koan View Post
I wonder what Samsung's reasoning was for removing the PC name trick. Seems odd that they would have done this.
Well I haven't heard of the PC input trick not working on anyone else's set besides fierce_gt's in the recent firmwares, but I suspect that because no one notices/cares that such a feature was silently removed. Silently in the sense that the option to name a source as PC still exists, but the input lag reduction was removed.
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post #12217 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amazingmuzmo View Post
Well I haven't heard of the PC input trick not working on anyone else's set besides fierce_gt's in the recent firmwares, but I suspect that because no one notices/cares that such a feature was silently removed. Silently in the sense that the option to name a source as PC still exists, but the input lag reduction was removed.
i know! nobody else has even checked it seems. I'm hoping it's some glitch with mine, but i don't know why that would be the case. either way, I'd love to hear if other ppl have the same thing with fw 1120 or not


the way i noticed is because my hdmi2 input is set up as "PC' and 'calibrated as best i could for gaming. one day i plugged in a game and it looked SUPER blue. i went into the settings and noticed i had access to a whole bunch of stuff i didn't before. thought it was some improvement where i was giving more control using the pc thing. after a bit of playing around i realized the name change made no difference anymore
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post #12218 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 11:02 AM
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well, guess I should have done this sooner. I checked again, my PC name trick is functioning again, so no idea what that was about...


now how do I go back and edit every post where I claimed it didn't...
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post #12219 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 04:10 PM
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sorry no intention to highjack but need help Here
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post #12220 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
well, guess I should have done this sooner. I checked again, my PC name trick is functioning again, so no idea what that was about...


now how do I go back and edit every post where I claimed it didn't...

So pc name trick and game mode are still the way to go for playing games?
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post #12221 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 04:58 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
has anybody ever actually had a score 'burn in'?


the stations I watch seem to rarely even put the score up these days, and I'm positive it would take about a week before anything got 'burned it' to my plasma... so even if they left the score up all the time, the commercial breaks would wash away any minor IR long before it was burned in.
Well, the scoreboard or other related stationary graphics are the types of content more likely to cause IR and burn-in.
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post #12222 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by USMCj View Post
So pc name trick and game mode are still the way to go for playing games?
naming the input PC will get you the lowest possible input lag


turning on game mode with the input named anything other than PC will reduce the input lag but still give you most of the calibration options


so using PC gives a subtle improvement in input lag, and a subtle decrease in picture quality
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post #12223 of 12313 Old 06-20-2014, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post
Well, the scoreboard or other related stationary graphics are the types of content more likely to cause IR and burn-in.
yeah, I wasn't talking about the numbers, haha. although this is world cup season, so I suppose those numbers could go unchanged for an hour straight
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post #12224 of 12313 Old 06-21-2014, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberized View Post
QUESTION about using my A/V Receiver for Audio from/thru DTV and also from the 64F8500 [with DTV OFF]?


I presently Turn OFF the Sound built into my HDTV and rely on my A/V Receiver for ALL Audio.......there must be a way to set this up to send the Audio Signals from just the TV [w/o DTV ON] to the A/V Receiver too. IF so.......PLEASE tell me how to use the built in Setup[s] to do this!
I would like to, just for example, play Music Videos [APPs], thru my A/V Receiver rather than just the inferior speaker system in the TV itself.


Thanks, michael

You will want to use the Arc input on the TV which I believe is input 3. Make sure the ARC is enabled on your receiver and you should be able to get audio from the internal Smart TV apps through your receiver. When it works, you are able to control your receivers volume with the TV remote. (The on-screen volume prompt changes to let you know it's controlling a device)

I had to enable smart control on my Yamaha receiver before the ARC option appeared but it works really well once setup. I can watch Netflix, Amazon, Hulu Plus, and movies from a flashdrive through my headphones and speakers.

LNT-4665F
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T-TULPAUS5-1011 CS[D652] [46(AMV)-inch]

PS3
XBOX 360
Crappy Sound Reciever

Last edited by Ice That Jaw; 06-21-2014 at 02:02 PM.
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post #12225 of 12313 Old 06-21-2014, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottFern View Post
Can anyone comment on the picture quality and black levels before and after a professional calibration? I am considering getting one in the next 2 months.
The color will be the most noticeable after a calibration. Everything will look perfectly saturated. Skin tones and clothing will look realistic. It's definitely worth just in that regard.

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post #12226 of 12313 Old 06-21-2014, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redcrow100 View Post
Michael,

Kept searching around Google for an hour trying to figure this out. The solution is to use HDMI 3 ARC on the TV. Make sure your AVR is compatible as well. I have a Sony STR1040 with the following set up:


1- Directv to the receiver's satellite input
2- PS3 to the reveiver's BD input
3-Appletv to the receiver's video 1 input
4- Receiver output to the tv's HDMI 3

When i turn on the tv and direcTV it switches to the appropriate settings
When I go to the TV apps and play a netflix or youtube clip it switches my receiver to "TV" and I hear everything accordingly.


The only issue is that after i initially turn on DirecTV the Samsung changes after the input back to "TV" after a few seconds. Much smaller issue but i'll keep looking for a solution. I don't know why it would default back after doing everything right


PS- Make sure you run the Samsung's initial set up again to assign your TV provider (DirecTV, COX, Dish etc) to the correct input.

Hope this helps

THANKS ALOT! redcrow.....MUCH appreciated, and thanks for others inputs as well.....this looks like YOU really olved this dilemma for us.....I just ordered several NEW quality HDMI cables fm Monoprice, so when they get here next week I will be able to run that extra Receiver OUT to #3 ARC; and use my #1 for my Sammy Plasma..........HOORAY!!!!!!
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post #12227 of 12313 Old 06-21-2014, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Ice That Jaw View Post
The color will be the most noticeable after a calibration. Everything will look perfectly saturated. Skin tones and clothing will look realistic. It's definitely worth just in that regard.
I would agree, especially because the warm1 and warm2 presets on the tv seem to be further off than normal. usually warm2 is pretty decent for ootb color, but this time it's pretty horrible.


I actually haven't calibrated mine either, just plugged in another members values, and then loaded up a greyscale ramp and fixed a couple of 'points' that looked a little tinted. even just doing that has made a huge difference.
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post #12228 of 12313 Old 06-22-2014, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redcrow100 View Post
The only issue is that after i initially turn on DirecTV the Samsung changes after the input back to "TV" after a few seconds. Much smaller issue but i'll keep looking for a solution. I don't know why it would default back after doing everything right
I'm so glad you mentioned this! I have the same problem and Samsung insisted it was a problem with the HDMI-CEC implementation in my Denon X4000. Meanwhile Denon blamed Samsung. Since you're having the same issue with your Sony AVR I'll take that as proof it's really Samsung's fault.

In the long run I'm hoping the HDMI 2.0 on the Evo kit will fix this. But I'm in no hurry to upgrade and in the meantime I'm just using the optical digital-out for TV audio.
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post #12229 of 12313 Old 06-22-2014, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
well, guess I should have done this sooner. I checked again, my PC name trick is functioning again, so no idea what that was about...


now how do I go back and edit every post where I claimed it didn't...
Oh god. I want my hour of recording and analyzing timers back!
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post #12230 of 12313 Old 06-22-2014, 04:51 PM
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getting my 60f8500 in a few days , whats the best way to break in the panel slides or just keep brightness low? Any suggestions would be great as my panny G15 does have burn.
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post #12231 of 12313 Old 06-23-2014, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by WILLINH View Post
getting my 60f8500 in a few days , whats the best way to break in the panel slides or just keep brightness low? Any suggestions would be great as my panny G15 does have burn.

Watch a variety of content and make sure not to keep static images on the screen for extended periods of time. People get caught up with the "break in period" when that's really only needed if you will be doing a pro calibration. There are hundreds of thousands of people that just watch TV and have never heard of break in


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post #12232 of 12313 Old 06-24-2014, 03:34 PM
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I may need to x-post to the Marantz board, but posting here as well. I recently picked up a PN64F8500 and have it setup with a Marantz sr7005. The audio & satellite reception work as expected with the Marantz turned on.


Questions:
  • With the Marantz turned off, the TV does not recognize the Dish receiver. Does anyone know how I can solve this issue?
  • What is the purpose of Anynet+? Can it be turned off? Does this functionality need to be on in order to utilize ARC?
With my previous TV (Sony LCD), I was able to turn the Marantz hdmi control off and change the TV settings in order to watch the Dish receiver through the TV, as well as receive audio through the TV, with the Marantz off. In other words, the Marantz acted as a pass-thru for the satellite receiver. (NOTE: the hdmi cable from the Marantz is run through the walls through smurf tube into a media closet; I'd like to avoid having to run another hdmi cable if possible).



Currently, in the Marantz Manual Setup menu, this is where I'm at:
  • hdmi control turned on.
  • hdmi cable from the Dish receiver is in hdmi port 3 (SAT).
  • hdmi port 3 selected as standby source
  • hdmi cable from the Marantz to the TV is in the TV hdmi port 3 (has ARC functionality).
I've called Samsung twice and they just told me to hit the source button on the tv remote and choose the Dish receiver, however I explained to them this doesn't work and there's no other hdmi cable in the TV other than the cable from the Marantz. This was their only suggestion. At this point I'm not sure if a TV setting (Anynet+?) or a Marantz setting needs to be adjusted. Ideas?

Last edited by rtbco; 06-24-2014 at 03:55 PM.
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post #12233 of 12313 Old 06-24-2014, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtbco View Post
I may need to x-post to the Marantz board, but posting here as well. I recently picked up a PN64F8500 and have it setup with a Marantz sr7005. The audio & satellite reception work as expected with the Marantz turned on.

Questions:
  • With the Marantz turned off, the TV does not recognize the Dish receiver. Does anyone know how I can solve this issue?
  • What is the purpose of Anynet+? Can it be turned off? Does this functionality need to be on in order to utilize ARC?
With my previous TV (Sony LCD), I was able to turn the Marantz hdmi control off and change the TV settings in order to watch the Dish receiver through the TV, as well as receive audio through the TV, with the Marantz off. In other words, the Marantz acted as a pass-thru for the satellite receiver. (NOTE: the hdmi cable from the Marantz is run through the walls through smurf tube into a media closet; I'd like to avoid having to run another hdmi cable if possible).


Currently, in the Marantz Manual Setup menu, this is where I'm at:
  • hdmi control turned off.
  • hdmi cable from the Dish receiver is in hdmi port 3 (SAT).
  • hdmi port 3 selected as standby source
  • hdmi cable from the Marantz to the TV is in the TV hdmi port 3 (has ARC functionality).
I've called Samsung twice and they just told me to hit the source button on the tv remote and choose the Dish receiver, however I explained to them this doesn't work and there's no other hdmi cable in the TV other than the cable from the Marantz. This was their only suggestion. At this point I'm not sure if a TV setting (Anynet+?) or a Marantz setting needs to be adjusted. Ideas?

I am doing something similar to you with a Pioneer SC-79. It doesnt matter what HDMI port its connected to on the Samsung from the AVR. You have to make sure your AVR has HDMI control turned on if you want to switch different sources while the AVR is in standby, then there should be a setting on the AVR as well for what happens to HDMI when the AVR is in standby ie passthrough and then to display what input "last" or HDMI1 etc using the passthrough.

Does this help and make sense?
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post #12234 of 12313 Old 06-24-2014, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by huddadudda View Post
I am doing something similar to you with a Pioneer SC-79. It doesnt matter what HDMI port its connected to on the Samsung from the AVR. You have to make sure your AVR has HDMI control turned on if you want to switch different sources while the AVR is in standby, then there should be a setting on the AVR as well for what happens to HDMI when the AVR is in standby ie passthrough and then to display what input "last" or HDMI1 etc using the passthrough.

Does this help and make sense?
Apologies, I meant to say hdmi control is turned on (not off). Then as stated, I have the standby source to hdmi port 3 as the hdmi cable from the Dish receiver is in hdmi port 3 on the AVR.

Still...no luck.
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post #12235 of 12313 Old 06-24-2014, 04:00 PM
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What input is your AVR set to display when turned off?
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post #12236 of 12313 Old 06-24-2014, 04:17 PM
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When turned off? It's set to SAT, and should start up in the last setting prior to being turned off. Now, with the Samsung TV, it starts in TV input and I have to manually change it to SAT every time.
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post #12237 of 12313 Old 06-24-2014, 04:34 PM
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Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtbco View Post
When turned off? It's set to SAT, and should start up in the last setting prior to being turned off. Now, with the Samsung TV, it starts in TV input and I have to manually change it to SAT every time.

Look at pages 82-83 in your Marantz user guide and double check your setting. You might have to play with them a bit to figure out which to use. Looks like it should be "HDMI Control"=ON then "Standby Source"=Last (or the Dish Network HDMI input on the AVR) then "Power Off Control"=Off

You may have to play around with these to figure out which work. Like I said I dont have a Marantz but do the same thing your doing with my Pioneer SC-79 and Samsung F8500. I dont have any HDMI controls or setting turned on via the TV settings. FWIW my HDMI from the AVR is plugged into HDMI1 on the Samsung TV.

Edit: I am not sure why the AVR HDMI output is connected to your HDMI3 connection on your TV but you can make the TV default to the AVR if thats what you want. I think if you go into the Samsung TV menu - Then go to Smart Features -> On TV Settings -> On TV Setup -> then go to Source and pick HDMI3 should auto turn on to HDMI3.

Also you may also want to double check this TV setting for source is properly set for the "source" too as others before posted this fixed similar issues for them.

Last edited by huddadudda; 06-24-2014 at 05:10 PM. Reason: Edit
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post #12238 of 12313 Old 06-24-2014, 11:32 PM
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Quick question! I want to use (stream) Pandora and it says to either enter bla bla bla code or go into settings and log in!! Ok I have a previous account and want to log in but for the life of me I Cannot find this log-in they are talking about under Settings?
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post #12239 of 12313 Old 06-25-2014, 01:49 PM
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UPDATE:

After talking with Samsung tech support, I was informed I either need to have the Marantz turned on OR I need to have my satellite receiver plugged directly into my TV (not through the Marantz) via HDMI to be able to watch TV with my Marantz turned off. Is this really true?? I was easily able to watch satellite tv on my previous Sony LCD when the Marantz was turned off (Marantz on standby, passing the satellite through to the TV). I'd like to avoid having my satellite receiver sitting next to my tv with an HDMI cable sticking out. Anyone know how to make this happen??

Another issue I've encountered:
I have 1 HDMI cord plugged into my tv (HDMI port 3). If I hit the source button on the tv remote, the TV display for HDMI 1 says "Dish Receiver" even though there's nothing plugged in to HDMI port 1. In other words, it seems the TV is expecting the satellite feed to be coming from HDMI port 1. Again, Samsung said I need to have the satellite receiver plugged in to HDMI port 1 on the tv. I find it hard to believe that my options to get through these issues are so limited.
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post #12240 of 12313 Old 06-25-2014, 01:56 PM
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If your Marantz doesn't have ARC capability (in standby) then yes that would be true. Otherwise no, it's probably a settings issue.


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