Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 409 - AVS Forum
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post #12241 of 12270 Old 06-25-2014, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtbco View Post
UPDATE:

After talking with Samsung tech support, I was informed I either need to have the Marantz turned on OR I need to have my satellite receiver plugged directly into my TV (not through the Marantz) via HDMI to be able to watch TV with my Marantz turned off. Is this really true?? I was easily able to watch satellite tv on my previous Sony LCD when the Marantz was turned off (Marantz on standby, passing the satellite through to the TV). I'd like to avoid having my satellite receiver sitting next to my tv with an HDMI cable sticking out. Anyone know how to make this happen??

Another issue I've encountered:
I have 1 HDMI cord plugged into my tv (HDMI port 3). If I hit the source button on the tv remote, the TV display for HDMI 1 says "Dish Receiver" even though there's nothing plugged in to HDMI port 1. In other words, it seems the TV is expecting the satellite feed to be coming from HDMI port 1. Again, Samsung said I need to have the satellite receiver plugged in to HDMI port 1 on the tv. I find it hard to believe that my options to get through these issues are so limited.
The tv defaults to HDMI 1. HDMI 1 is labelled stb on the port.

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post #12242 of 12270 Old 06-25-2014, 03:48 PM
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Issue resolved. I was able to go into the On TV settings and change the default source setting to HDMI 3.

Last edited by rtbco; 06-25-2014 at 05:07 PM.
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post #12243 of 12270 Old 06-27-2014, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
Quote:Originally Posted by cronuskronos 

Black level is not the most important parameter for image fidelity

seriously how can you say something like that? and you have a signature stating that you are a pro calibrator then i guess it only helps me in being more careful if i were going you ask you to calibrate my HDTV.

Most studio's use pro IPS monitors for mastering video and editing video, these IPS monitor's have really bad black levels so you are saying that you know better than the guys editing movies in studio's?

Most phones use OLED screens which have blacks that only plasma's can dream of but still LCD based panels are rated as reference mobile displays because of their superiority in other pic parameters.

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/blo...vs-black-level
I guess you did not understand my point, my point i actually don't care much about these THX certifications as these are more of marketing tools and hence this link does not change my opinion about THX, i used to have a THX certified monitor speaker for my pc audio but now i use a studio monitor which is not THX certified, i like my current monitor speaker 10x more than the THX certified speakers i used to have,so from my personal experience i have learned THX does not determine the pinnacle of quality or sometimes is not even close.


Here's a quote from the article you referenced:

Bottom Line

Don’t fixate on black level. Yes, it’s important, but contrast ratio far more so. Fortunately, we measure both here.


Contrast ratio is White level divided by black level, whether ON/OFF or ANSI. For any given White level, the darkest display has the highest CR. That's all there is to it. And you'll see at the Shootout assuming they continue with the same format as last year, all displays White levels will be the same. The darkest black will be the contrast winner in that department.

Studio colorists would love to use PDP instead of IPS but unfortunately ABL makes color luminance accuracy impossible so they are stuck with poor blacks. All calibrators are aware that changes in pattern size produce changes in gamma and there is nothing that can be done about it.

And it's you who doesn't understand my point. I neither spoke of nor care about your speakers.
That speaker example was to simply state that THX ratings mean nothing when comes to actual performance and even a simple low quality speaker with pathetic measurements can have THX certification so if THX says black level is the most important and you believe them and also post their claims in replies? well then good for you because at the end of the day it is whatever floats your boat.

I did not ask for you to care for mine or anyone else's speaker so not sure why you even came up with that unrelated comment, but overall when you call yourself a calibrator and keep insisting black level is the most important thing for picture quality it speaks a lot about you and i am just happy that my television was not calibrated by you.
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Last edited by cronuskronos; 06-27-2014 at 06:37 AM.
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post #12244 of 12270 Old 06-27-2014, 07:32 AM
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Wink

I am impressed that over 1 year later, you replied to a post from page 145 of this thread. Fantastic!
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post #12245 of 12270 Old 06-27-2014, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cronuskronos View Post
when you call yourself a calibrator and keep insisting black level is the most important thing for picture quality it speaks a lot about you and i am just happy that my television was not calibrated by you.
Obviously you've never attended an ISF or THX video calibration certification course.

Buzz
THX Certified Video Calibrator

 

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post #12246 of 12270 Old 06-27-2014, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amazingmuzmo View Post
Well after some extensive testing, I've come to the following conclusions about the input lag on this set:

No "PC" name input, no game mode:

Average input lag - 120 ms

No "PC" name input, game mode on:

Average input lag - 80 ms

"PC" input name:

Average input lag - 65 ms


It seems, for my set at least (firmware 1119), the PC input name juuuuuust slightly decreases the input lag, not very much though.
FWIW this correlates quite well with the F8500 lag testing done on displaylag.com last year (62 ms per the attached image from their database).

Although wasn't there a claim from earlier this year that this panel's DL improved substantially around FW 1114 or so? Right now based on the recent measurements by fierce and amazing the panel's lag in PC Mode is effectively no different than it was shortly after being released to retail.

Dunno, maybe I am not recollecting things accurately.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg f8500.JPG (32.7 KB, 18 views)
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post #12247 of 12270 Old 06-27-2014, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by icelt View Post
FWIW this correlates quite well with the F8500 lag testing done on displaylag.com last year (62 ms per the attached image from their database).

Although wasn't there a claim from earlier this year that this panel's DL improved substantially around FW 1114 or so? Right now based on the recent measurements by fierce and amazing the panel's lag in PC Mode is effectively no different than it was shortly after being released to retail.

Dunno, maybe I am not recollecting things accurately.
I don't believe there's been any improvement in lag since release
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post #12248 of 12270 Old 06-28-2014, 02:02 PM
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Does anyone else's 8500 make a clicking noises every 15 minutes or so? It's like a crackling noise or clicking noise. Does anyone else have that or know what that is? Or know how to get rid of it? Or how to also diminish the buzz? Would getting a soundboard diminish the buzz? Please help, thanks!!!!
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post #12249 of 12270 Old 06-30-2014, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cyberized View Post
THANKS ALOT! redcrow.....MUCH appreciated, and thanks for others inputs as well.....this looks like YOU really olved this dilemma for us.....I just ordered several NEW quality HDMI cables fm Monoprice, so when they get here next week I will be able to run that extra Receiver OUT to #3 ARC; and use my #1 for my Sammy Plasma..........HOORAY!!!!!!
Just wanted to update on this. After setting up my Harmony One with an activity (watch DirecTV), the TV was still defaulting my receiver to "TV" after about 10 seconds. It's almost as if it has an override dictating where the final sound setting should be after start up no matter what. My solution to this was to add a 12 second delay to my Harmony remote, and then instruct (thru the remote) the receiver to switch to "SAT" again. Basically switching it back to where it needs to end. Problem solved.
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post #12250 of 12270 Old 07-01-2014, 05:24 PM
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Looking like samsungs done with plasma November 30th.

8 mile posted a link in flat panel general to Reuters here. 2015: Plasma's final year?
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post #12251 of 12270 Old 07-01-2014, 10:39 PM - Thread Starter
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"decline in overall demand for plasma display panel televisions", that is just not true, they are being discontinued because they could not make a 4K Plasma TV cost effectively . Therefor they could not over charge for new technology . LED is next........ Especially if LG gets there OLED costs down.
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post #12252 of 12270 Old 07-02-2014, 11:59 AM
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Hi guys, Ive had my PN64F8500 for about a month now purchased from Chris at Cleveland and I really like it. Just have a couple of questions if I may.
1. Sometimes it will act like Cinema smooth is on even though it says its off, I tried to toggle back and forth between on and off to see if it clears and no luck. Its especially noticeable on Defiance, but maybe that's how its recorded.
2. When watching things with really bright flashing lights, like on the awards shows where its dark and strobe lights, the picture gets very blocky and clears immediately after the lights stop. Is this normal to the TV? My Sammy LED DLP projection tv did this but not nearly as bad.
3. What does Cinema Smooth do to make the picture look so clear compared to when its off. It kind of makes me dizzy with it on, but everything looks more real to me. Not sure if I'm explaining it correctly.

Appreciate your time guys, thanks!
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post #12253 of 12270 Old 07-02-2014, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evoryder View Post
2. When watching things with really bright flashing lights, like on the awards shows where its dark and strobe lights, the picture gets very blocky and clears immediately after the lights stop. Is this normal to the TV? My Sammy LED DLP projection tv did this but not nearly as bad.
That's insufficient bitrate by your cable provider or the broadcaster causing visible macroblocking. It's not caused by the TV.
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post #12254 of 12270 Old 07-02-2014, 12:11 PM
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Does anyone know how to look at the pictures from this thread? I have no idea where to look at all the pictures from this thread or any thread anymore?!
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post #12255 of 12270 Old 07-02-2014, 12:37 PM
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They haven't implemented the gallery feature yet. Not sure if it will ever come back. You'll have to search for posts with pictures now or get lucky and someone will post more.


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post #12256 of 12270 Old 07-02-2014, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
They haven't implemented the gallery feature yet. Not sure if it will ever come back. You'll have to search for posts with pictures now or get lucky and someone will post more.


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Thank you for answering my question!!! Not sure why they got rid of it.
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post #12257 of 12270 Old 07-02-2014, 12:48 PM
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It was a part of the Huddler platform. They moved to VBscript when the site was bought. Last I heard they are trying to find a plugin that will do the same function.


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post #12258 of 12270 Old 07-03-2014, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
That's insufficient bitrate by your cable provider or the broadcaster causing visible macroblocking. It's not caused by the TV.
It can also be caused by bad house wiring. We had a fair amount of this sort of problem when we had a 75' run of 25 year old RG59 between the connection to Comcast and the F8500. When I replaced that with 75' of quad-shielded RG6, the problem went away completely.
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post #12259 of 12270 Old 07-05-2014, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
It can also be caused by bad house wiring. We had a fair amount of this sort of problem when we had a 75' run of 25 year old RG59 between the connection to Comcast and the F8500. When I replaced that with 75' of quad-shielded RG6, the problem went away completely.
Sure, there are many, many variables.........
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post #12260 of 12270 Old 07-06-2014, 04:28 PM
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Maybe not useful for most of users, but wanna share it. This tv is capable of displaying PAL 50Hz although spec does not say so. If you plan to take it to Europe it'll work with step down converter only
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post #12261 of 12270 Old 07-06-2014, 07:07 PM
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Maybe not useful for most of users, but wanna share it. This tv is capable of displaying PAL 50Hz although spec does not say so. If you plan to take it to Europe it'll work with step down converter only
For the cost of shipping it over, would be far easier and cheaper to sell current unit here, and buy the European Version over there.
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post #12262 of 12270 Old 07-06-2014, 07:19 PM
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For the cost of shipping it over, would be far easier and cheaper to sell current unit here, and buy the European Version over there.

I believe he will only be there temporarily which is why that may not be a good idea (I can't remember the entire backstory 100% so I may be wrong)


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post #12263 of 12270 Old 07-07-2014, 02:08 AM
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I just opened my new set ps64f8500am
I am extremely pleased with the picture and still looking for calibration settings to try out. Can any one share a link for initial calibration after 100 hours of break in?
The main thing I am still looking into is the black level and their contrast. For example if someone is wearing a black Blazer I would like clearly be able to see the wrinkles and separation of the layers of the suit.

Another thing I wanted to know about is which wireless keyboard will work good with the set - not referring to the Samsung ones which are expensive and Bluetooth is preferred over the USB.



Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
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post #12264 of 12270 Old 07-07-2014, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ofird View Post
I just opened my new set ps64f8500am
I am extremely pleased with the picture and still looking for calibration settings to try out. Can any one share a link for initial calibration after 100 hours of break in?
The main thing I am still looking into is the black level and their contrast. For example if someone is wearing a black Blazer I would like clearly be able to see the wrinkles and separation of the layers of the suit.

Another thing I wanted to know about is which wireless keyboard will work good with the set - not referring to the Samsung ones which are expensive and Bluetooth is preferred over the USB.



Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

There is a separate settings thread where owners post heir settings after calibration. It should be said though that these may actually make your set look worse. It is always best to get a pro calibration or get some equipment and do a calibration yourself. The next best thing is to buy or download one of the many calibration discs and change the basic settings.


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post #12265 of 12270 Old 07-07-2014, 05:30 AM
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^^

thanks

Any recommended CD that you specifically like? do you run the wizard via the USB port or DVD connected to the set?
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post #12266 of 12270 Old 07-07-2014, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ofird View Post
^^

thanks

Any recommended CD that you specifically like? do you run the wizard via the USB port or DVD connected to the set?

Well I would hope you are using a Blu-ray player with this set


Popular Free discs:
AVSHD709:
AVS HD 709 - Blu-ray & MP4 Calibration

Mascior's Disc:
Mascior's Calibration Disc


Popular Free Discs:
Disney WOW:
http://www.amazon.com/Disney-WOW-Wor.../dp/B0045ASBLG


S&M HD Benchmark:
http://www.amazon.com/Spears-Munsil-...dp/B00CKWI13O/


Both of the above also have threads in the Calibration section of the forums:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/
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post #12267 of 12270 Old 07-07-2014, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ofird View Post
I just opened my new set ps64f8500am
I am extremely pleased with the picture and still looking for calibration settings to try out. Can any one share a link for initial calibration after 100 hours of break in?
The main thing I am still looking into is the black level and their contrast. For example if someone is wearing a black Blazer I would like clearly be able to see the wrinkles and separation of the layers of the suit.

Another thing I wanted to know about is which wireless keyboard will work good with the set - not referring to the Samsung ones which are expensive and Bluetooth is preferred over the USB.



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I use this one
http://reviews.*******************.c...-settings.html
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post #12268 of 12270 Old 07-07-2014, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
For the cost of shipping it over, would be far easier and cheaper to sell current unit here, and buy the European Version over there.
Prices in Europe are way higher, was thinking more to take it with you via airplane (cheaper)
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post #12269 of 12270 Old Yesterday, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by anis_ber View Post
Prices in Europe are way higher, was thinking more to take it with you via airplane (cheaper)
LED/LCD shipping hazards are far less than shipping a Plasma. CP recommends that Plasmas not be shipped to Canada for this very reason, and this is right next door across the border.
How about a Rental while over there?
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post #12270 of 12270 Old Yesterday, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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LED/LCD shipping hazards are far less than shipping a Plasma. CP recommends that Plasmas not be shipped to Canada for this very reason, and this is right next door across the border.
How about a Rental while over there?
It not the damages, it the freight costs, once you say international the prices go way up.
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