My PN60F8500 arrived last week. The first night, before going to bed, I started break-in slides. After about an hour I got up and checked the set. The room felt warmer than usual. I ran my hand over the back of the set and found a very hot spot about a foot in diameter on the right back side in the unvented area. There was also a smaller not as hot spot on the left back side unvented area. I decided to stop the slides until I could improve the set’s cooling air flow. The rule of thumb for electronic components is that a 10° Celsius (18° Fahrenheit) increase in average operating temperature halves the life of the component.
The next day I purchased four Thermaltake Mobile Fan 12 External USB Cooling Fan 120mm AF0007 ( http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/produc...?id=C_00001625
) and a Anker Uspeed USB 3.0 7 Port Hub + 1 Charging Port, with 12V 4A Power Adapter ( http://www.ianker.com/product/68UPHUB-B8U
) from Amazon . These fans are USB powered and have a speed control. The USB hub can power eight devices. I chose this model because of its 4 A Power Adapter.
Update 5/14/2013: Purchased Antec Bias Lighting for HDTV with 51.1-Inch Cable (HDTV BIAS LIGHTING) which uses USB port for power.
I already had one of these fans that I was using to exhaust my HL-T5689S DLP that was replaced with the PN60F8500. The individual fan specs are:
Max. Air Flow 47.28 CFM
17 dBA at 1300 RPM
31 dBA at 3000 RPM
Combined the five fans at full speed should exhaust 236 CFM from the set. To mount the fans I removed the four screws that hold the stand and grills. Remounted the fan speed control bracket to the bottom right fan mounting hole with a twist tie. The power plug hung down from the right bottom of the fan. I wanted to temporarily mount the fans to find the best placement. It turned out that it was easy to get the twist ties thru the vent holes by bending the end of a tie back on itself about a eighth of an inch then poking that folded end into one of the holes. Crimping the paper on the tie made it easier to push into the hole. With a little twisting and pulling I could get the bent section to fold out and come out the hole below the entry hole. Unplugged the set during this operation because the ties contain metal wire. I used a fan grill to find the correct vent hole for the next tie. The fans come with two grills. Left the rear grill off the fan and used the flatter back grill on the front of the fan.
When mounted to exhaust air, the black fan hub is visible. If the colored side of the hub is visible then the fan is blowing air into the set and that is not good. Mounted two fans on the left and right vertical vented areas on the back of the set and one centered below the camera. I plugged the five fan’s USB plugs into the USB Port Hub. The AC plug for the Hub I plugged into the switched outlet on the back of my FiOS DVR. The fans will only run when the DVR is powered on.
Update 5/14/2013: Discovered that my DVR's switched outlet is turned off if its HDMI output is not received for an interval. Purchased from Amazon a ZuniDigital ZG7000B-15 7 Outlet Digital Smart Green Surge Protector with 1 Master, 4 Controlled, and 2 Constant outlets. Plugged the TV into the Master outlet and USB Hub into a Controlled outlet which is only on when TV is on.
My controlled devices are:
Powered USB Hub
MoCA Router (Provides wired Internet connection for TV, Blu-ray player ,Video Game, and Receiver)
The last two had been 24/7 power vampires.
The fan’s control knob index goes from low speed at 2 o’clock to high speed at 10 o’clock. I set the knobs to 6 o’clock and powered on the cold set to a news channel. After one hour, the only warm area on the back was below the two right side fans. There is a row of 9 capacitors located under the upper right vertical vent holes. Five of the nine caps were in the gap between the two fans and restricted air flow. Turned all the fans up to full speed. In an hour the warm area below the gap in the fans was noticeably cooler.
Because the slides make the set much hotter than normal use, I temporarily mounted a Thermaltake AF0064 80mm Sleeve Mobile fan III between the two right side 120mm fans. With all fans at full speed I started the http://www.avsforum.com/t/1463454/of...#post_23205805
slides again. After 1 ½ hours there are no hot or even warm spots on the back of the set. After the 100 hours I will probably remove the 80 mm fan and set the other fans back to 6 o’clock. The two twist ties per fan hold each fan securely enough. I will not replace them.
Update 5/29/2013: Purchased an Extech 401012 Indoor/Outdoor Temperature Alarm to monitor my TV's temperature. It displays both the room temperature and temperature at a sensor on a 10' wire. Attached the remote sensor with a twist tie to the grill of the 120mm fan above the Main Board. After checking for several days, the fan exhaust temperature has always been less than 10° F above room temperature during normal viewing, with all fans set a 6 o'clock (half speed).
Did some testing with the break-in slides. After running break-in slides for one hour with fans off and remote sensor on horizontal vent holes directly above Main Board measured air temperature got up to 110.4° F.
This post is continued at Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] , with information about monitoring TV's temperature with Extech 401012 Indoor/Outdoor Temperature Alarm http://www.extech.com/testequipment/...=67&prodid=392 .
Heat sources in PNxxF8500 can be seen below.
Most of the heat seems to come from the CPU (covered by black heatsink) on the Main Board but the X-Main and Y-Main also produce heat.
Five 120 mm fans installed:
Right side view of 120 mm and temporary 80 mm fans which cool the Main and X-Main boards:
USB Hub mounted with Velcro below center fan:
Extech 401012 Indoor/Outdoor Temperature Alarm a few minutes after turning on TV.
Remote sensor in fan exhaust stream:
Temperatures after running break-in slides for one hour with fans off and
remote sensor on horizontal vent holes directly above Main Board.
Highest observed temperature 110.4° F but picture blurred: