My LG plasma's picture is gone, still have audio. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-21-2013, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I have been googling the net, searching the forums and can't get an answer, just a lot of folks with the same problem.  

 

I have an LG 60PS60 that I bought 3 years ago, the picture is gone but there is still audio.  This holds true with any input mode.  Tag on the back says it was manufactured June of 09.

 

There are a lot of complaints about LG's 42 - 47 inch plasma's with the same problem, not much on my particular model.  Could be a capaciter, one of two or three boards that it has could have gone bad, I won't know anything until I tear the back off and do a visual inspection.  

 

My question is can anyone recommend a website that would be helpful in diagnosing / fixing this?  I am not an electronics technician however I do have some mechanical / electrical aptitude, I can handle a soldering iron and a screwdriver (I was an Auto Tech for 20 years, and have been building computers for the last 12)

 

For all the money I spent on this TV 3 years ago I really would like to get a few more years of service out of it, but if it will cost me several hundred to fix it I might as well just get a new LED.

 

Any help-guidance would sure be appreciated, thanks!

 

Rob


AVR - Pioneer SC1222k

Display - LG 60" Plasma

Front - JBL L880's

Center - JBL LC2

Surrounds X 4 - JBL ES80bk's

Subs - Dual Premier Acoustic PA-150's

BR - Panasonic DMP-BDT500

DVD/CD - Toshiba HD-A35

CD Spinner - Some Sony HDMI 5 disk changer

2 channel Speakers - Martin Logan Motion 12's

 

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post #2 of 8 Old 03-21-2013, 08:29 PM
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buy a new samsung or panasonic plasma. Wont be worth it to fix it. I have seen people spending money to fix there tv only to have it break again in a month or 2.
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-22-2013, 01:37 AM
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You may have a power supply board fault a common easily repairable failure is the electrolytic capacitors
You May be able to replace the board or repair the one you have. Those are two options Read the whole page before you proceed.

**********Also see this thread here at AVS some have lost half pictures and whole pictures from simple loose connections with this set . Seems like LG had a design fault on the some board connectors and have an updated retainer clip one guy here lost the picture and fixed his with twist ties ******************
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1150118/lg-60ps60-owners-thread/360

I think your set might be worth fixing ..... if all it is is the P/S board or something similar ,if it were the panel or a $300.00 + board I would maybe say no.

Your set has a lot of Nichicon capacitors in it in it just like a Sony,Sharp and Toshiba. most tier one brands use Nichicon caps
they are considered one of the best brands .

It is true that most sets after 2011 2012 now should be using more reliable solid type capacitors so hotskins may have a valid point .
I think hotskins is maybe legitimately referring to industry wide problems with capacitors that plagued the electronics and computer industry for years causing repeated and numerous failures. Or maybe he read the owners thread ( link above ) on this set seems like it had it's share of problems . Long threads about a particular set mean one or two things, either a lot of folks like them or a lot ta folks had lots of problems with them .

On the other hand maybe you can fix it and get a few more years of use.

Disclaimer I am not an expert qualified tech but I've been screwing around with electronics for over 40 yrs.

If your set can be fixed cheap with a few electrolytic power supply caps or better yet some twist ties it is worth a shot power supply caps are cheap and the most prone to fail.newer ones should be more reliable..
.
TV's use the same type cheap to make rail switching sometimes cheaply made power supplies as computers.

Shopjimmy.com sells your board for $ 84.16 Ebay prices vary .

LG support site may have a parts store or referral cost at L.G. might be quite a bit more than the other sources like ebay or shopjimmy.com.
some times you can find new boards on Ebay .

All you need are screwdriver and maybe a nut driver to replace boards .
If you Google the part number on the power supply circuit board or the TV brand model + power supply board you will likely find plenty of info
The power supply board is the one where the wall cord is attached.

If see some bad caps or get faulty voltage readings and you decide to replace the board order by the actual number on the board itself they can vary within a sets model run

**** GO Here

He's out of stock on that board right now but has a good picture there .


You can measure output voltages on the power supply board with DVM to diagnose a power supply board fault . The voltages should be written on the board near the connectors.

OR ..... you can shot gun it and look on the power supply for bulging capacitor tops a common failure all brands ,replace those and maybe get lucky for under $10.00 in parts I've done that. Usually 4~ capacitors will do it even though only one or two may be bulging out the top.
there is also a 250v 5a fuse on the board white cylindrical type . Bulging capacitors are the low hanging fruit if you will.
check all the boards .

Bulging capacitor tops on the board should be easy to spot plenty of images available ( Google " bulging capacitors" ),Go to bad cap.net info there also. The power supply board is the one the wall cord attaches to. If you decide to DIY repair lot's of boards can be fixed inexpensively that way . I've done it several times'

Of course there are other things that can go wrong also. Some may be worth repair and others may not.

I have 2 1/2 yr old Dynex on the bench now it's getting $3.20 worth of new caps from Mouser .The caps were $3.20 and shipping was $5.99 so for $9.19 the set will live. It was my bedroom set I replaced it last month with a new 32" Toshiba . Of course the Toshiba has a way better picture . I have another use for the Dynex.

My favorite set in da house is a new 6 wk old 50" plasma If it goes out in 3 yrs I'm taking the back off and getting in there.

If you decide to try and repair the board keep reading below .

Look at the picture at shopjmmmy.com above Zoom in on it the capacitors are the black things with the x in the top

The bigger caps are the common ones to fail they are under a buck apiece at Mouser or Digikey maybe 3 bucks apiece on Amazon.

Low ESR Panasonic or Nichicon caps are usually best. At Digikey or Mouser they usually are less than $1.00 apiece if you go that route look for low ESR 105+ deg C spec. The 85 degree C caps at Radio Shack stores are under spec.and should not be used

Easy way to find new caps is go to Amazon instead of Digikey or Mouser type in for example 270uf 25v
low esr capacitor or whatever you have and Amazon will come up little more expensive but easier to find there .Mouser and Digikey are cheaper but a little harder to use try them both .

The caps will have a value of for example 270 mf or perhaps 250uf or even 1000uf etc at 15v or maybe 25 or 35 volts . uf and mf are the same replace with the same uf/mf value you can go up in voltage but if you do whatch your size ex you can replace a 15v with a 25v a 25v with a 35v never go down in voltage.


They will usually be " radial lead electrolytic Low ESR capacitors" .or just " Low ESR electrolytic capacitors"
Radial lead means both wires come out at the bottom . Horizontal capacitors are axial lead with one lead on each end
******These Capacitors are polarized like a battery.put them in wrong and they will blow up.***********

The negative side is marked with a stripe on the body be sure you make note of which side the stripe is on when you take one out and put the new one in the same way.

Maybe you can fix it for 10 bucks or so . No picture may be the power supply usually not a difficult repair and a common failure.
like computers the power supply puts out several voltages on different rails to power different things in the set .
could be the rail that powers the panel or the panel driver boards the audio part is probably only 5 volts.

If all you need is 2,3 or 4 caps you can fix it on the cheap. Your board has some 270uf and and maybe one or 2 250uf caps there aren't that many big ones maybe 4 or 5 it only takes one to fail and shut your set down .

Get the back off it lay it on a moving blanket or something soft even a bed screen down and take off the back if it has a sturdy stand you can probably do it upright. If you lay it down be careful the glass on a plasma is fairly thin as compared to the old CRT sets and should be protected accordingly crack it and it's dumpster time .


If you are good with a soldering iron you can replace the capacitors on a given board usually 3 or 4 in the power supply and sometimes fix it that way.
Or pay a local TV or stereo shop (if you can find one) to replace the caps or watch some videos on You Tube

You can get an inexpensive 25-35 watt soldering Iron/pencil at Radio shack a better one is the Weller brand but the RS brand will work Don't try to do it with a 100w solder gun use only rosin core solder Plenty of videos on You Tube just go to You Tube type in TV repair LCD TV repair, plasma TV repair ,TV capacitor replacement or whatever there are hundreds of videos on You tube.

Oh one more thing after you are done You may have to unplug wait a little and re plug the power cord several times or try to reset the TV after repairs ...like re booting a computer if it lost its mind .

Good luck.

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"The wireless music box has no commercial value. Who would pay for a message sent to nobody in particular?"
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-22-2013, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
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tubetwister thank you very much for the lengthy reply, I have lots of reading to do now :)

 

I could just say the heck with it and go buy a new flat panel but......  at this point I would rather spend the money on a new AVR, I have had my eye on the Pio SC-68 for a while now, (since I found out how nice the SC-1222K is that I bought a few months ago) and if I can get away with fixing this plasma for a hundred or even two then it would be worth it to me to invest the money and time.

 

Thanks again for your help and direction (I did search this forum, somehow I never found the dedicated thread for the LG?)

 

I'll post back once I figure things out, hopefully with a success story. 


AVR - Pioneer SC1222k

Display - LG 60" Plasma

Front - JBL L880's

Center - JBL LC2

Surrounds X 4 - JBL ES80bk's

Subs - Dual Premier Acoustic PA-150's

BR - Panasonic DMP-BDT500

DVD/CD - Toshiba HD-A35

CD Spinner - Some Sony HDMI 5 disk changer

2 channel Speakers - Martin Logan Motion 12's

 

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post #5 of 8 Old 03-22-2013, 12:14 PM
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Here is the link to the owners thread thread page 13 deals with picture loss http://www.avsforum.com/t/1150118/lg-60ps60-owners-thread

Here is the link to shopjimmy.com http://www.shopjimmy.com/lg-eay59547002-power-supply-unit.htm

Both were linked above embedded links on forum posts are the blue words when you click on them they are links.

If you can fix the set for under $200.00 I would go for it also .

As for the Pioneer SC 68 Keep in mind you have to double the audio output watts to get a 3db (noticeable )gain in output .
If that is what you are after for 2.1 ch music go for a separate power amp instead 200 -250 WPC or so for the front mains and use the
SC1222K for a pre amp that will give something


The jump from 120WPC to 140Wpc is not a big deal.

The SC 68 is however 8 lbs heavier than the 1222K that may indicate a more robust power supply giving it more headroom that could be a good thing. I wouldn't mind a pioneer SC68 here either it's a nice box.

The D3 ICE amp modules both Pioneers use in the finals are the B and O type (Bang and Olufsen ) commonly re packaged in uber expensive boutique audio gear by many high end brands they are very good.

Pioneer was buying Ice amp modules direct from B & O although they might be making their own now under a licence from B and O .
Pioneer had an exclusive deal with B&O for a while and advertised ICE amps in the Elite products.

Since both receivers are using D3 modules The 1222K might be closer to the SC68 than one would think other than 2 more channels on the 68 and maybe better processing . HT is over processed anyway so to me that's no big deal.
The similarity's of the TOTL SC series and Elites have been mentioned before . That would be a good thread discussion at Audiokarma.
there are a lot of E.E.'s and circuit designers there they would know.

I like the big Pioneers .
I have 3 vintage restored late 1970's silver faced Pioneer " monster" recievers an SX980, an SX3900 and an SX1050.
The SX 1050 weighs 51 lbs it can momentarily dim lights when it's turned up .

There is a dedicated Pioneer sub forum at Audiokarma .com but it is mostly vintage with some new stuff . 150,000 members on AK though it's the big daddy of audio forums . Kinda like AVS for video .

Hires Music formats ..............."Why does it sound like a CD ?" ............. "can we make it louder "?
"The wireless music box has no commercial value. Who would pay for a message sent to nobody in particular?"
- David Sarnoff's associates at RCA the 1920's -
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-22-2013, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
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No Joy doing a visual examination,  all the caps look fine.  I have seen bulging/leaking caps before while fixing-tearing down computers so I know what to look for.  Nothing looks burnt, the fuse has continuity/almost no resistance so I guess I will break out my digital multimeter and see if there is current coming off of the power board.  

 

Edit: I understand what you are saying about the receiver,  I want the extra features it has, then my current receiver is going to my bedroom. 


AVR - Pioneer SC1222k

Display - LG 60" Plasma

Front - JBL L880's

Center - JBL LC2

Surrounds X 4 - JBL ES80bk's

Subs - Dual Premier Acoustic PA-150's

BR - Panasonic DMP-BDT500

DVD/CD - Toshiba HD-A35

CD Spinner - Some Sony HDMI 5 disk changer

2 channel Speakers - Martin Logan Motion 12's

 

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post #7 of 8 Old 03-22-2013, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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There is voltage to the two boards on either side of the power board, (the ones with the heat sinks on them) confirmed with a volt meter, both of those boards emit a slight buzzing also.  The service manual links that are in the LG thread are dead now, so at this point I don't know what else to do, any suggestions?

 

I like those old Pio receivers also, and the Marantz too, grew up enjoying those beasts.


AVR - Pioneer SC1222k

Display - LG 60" Plasma

Front - JBL L880's

Center - JBL LC2

Surrounds X 4 - JBL ES80bk's

Subs - Dual Premier Acoustic PA-150's

BR - Panasonic DMP-BDT500

DVD/CD - Toshiba HD-A35

CD Spinner - Some Sony HDMI 5 disk changer

2 channel Speakers - Martin Logan Motion 12's

 

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post #8 of 8 Old 03-22-2013, 05:21 PM
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Picture and connector ID
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/PlasmaLCDPro/2009-09-15_234911_Plasma_explain.JPG

Panel circuit diagram and voltage spec
http://www.tgohome.com/ServiceManuals/LG-Zenith/LG_60PS60_Block_Diagram_[SCH].pdf

more info
http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/5a47s-lg-plasma-model-60ps60-no-picture-turn.html

owner manual
http://www.scribd.com/doc/39057933/null

FWIHR it could be the XY sustain boards or dirty connections
or supply voltages maybe these links will help
Google " LG 60ps60 no picture" see what comes up
good luck

That 1222K should make a heck of a bedroom set .

Hires Music formats ..............."Why does it sound like a CD ?" ............. "can we make it louder "?
"The wireless music box has no commercial value. Who would pay for a message sent to nobody in particular?"
- David Sarnoff's associates at RCA the 1920's -
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