Originally Posted by makaveddie81
I agree I definitely need a better meter, but its all I can afford for now.
What's funny is the inconsistent readings only occur in CalMAN during greyscale calibration, even after heeding your and sawfish's advice. Greyscale readings were stable using HCFR (and the black level reading was .001), so I went ahead and performed greyscale and gamma calibration using HCFR. I then used CalMAN for CMS calibration and performed a post calibration capture using HCFR. Greyscale and CMS deltaE's were all below 0.5, with a straight line gamma. I'm not too exited about the results, since I know my meter is not that accurate. Not sure what the heck is going on with CalMAN.
I never touch green when calibrating greyscale. The method you described is exactly how I calibrated my greyscale. I used the RGB High and Low settings to get all points around the ballpark. I then used the detail settings to tune them in. I did have to tinker with the Gamma and CMS settings, however.
What mid range budget meter would you recommend I upgrade to? Don't want to break the bank, but want something more accurate than my i1D3.
Your D3 meter is probably the best color meter that is affordable well under $1000. You may want to get a used I1Pro 2 or I1Pro rev D. to profile your D3 meter, but that is probably not going to help much with the low light readings.
I think HCFR uses the D3 tables that where created for ArgyllCMS by gwgill.
Calman probably uses different D3 tables so that may be were the difference lies. Or you may be just missing something in CM when you setup your meter.
iow, if HCFR is like Argyll it may be using some form of black point compensation with your D3 meter, and maybe CM has that feature also but you missed it. That I do not know because I don't have a D3 meter. Maybe ask scotti from CM, or call CM.
I use a K10 color meter along with its software CromaSurf for profiling the K10 with a spectro meter, and then store the profile in the K10 meters memory. That way my meter profile is always the same when changing calibration software, never any guess work.
I use CM v5.3 for my pre calibration settings, then use Argyll or LightSpace for my calibration's. I also use the above software for my measurement reports and sometimes also use CM just to make sure. CM's reports seem to always be close to what LS or Argyll reports say. However are VT60's do drift, so the 100% reading will vary a little.
If you have doubts about the calibration, look at a 21 point step grayscale pattern, if there is no tint of any color expect gray bars your grayscale should be ok. Also a flashing brightness pattern should show only gray bars. And a contrast flashing pattern for clipping should be gray bars. Also check your WRGB patterns for any clipping in those four colors. Chances are ther will be a little in white and blue, that's ok.
If all this checks out, I would think you have a good calibration.
btw, if you want take 5 or more readings with your D3 for 10%, 20% and 30%, then compare the readings for repeatability. Using HCFR and same for CM, if you get very close readings then there probably is np with the meter. Of-course use the same pattern source for both CM and HCFR.