2013 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post

Is there any consensus on if the pixel orbiter should be On or Auto? I understand Auto really means off, and I had it set to that until I got mild IR after watching a baseball game for 2 hours fast forwarding the commercials. So the score and logo was up for almost 2 hours straight, the IR went away after 15 minutes, and wasn't noticeable on normal content. But I turned pixel orbiter on anyway. I remember with D-Nice's Kuro 5020FD settings it said what mode to put orbiter in.

Definitely OFF (auto)

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post #632 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by smeg36 View Post

Is there any consensus on if the pixel orbiter should be On or Auto? I understand Auto really means off, and I had it set to that until I got mild IR after watching a baseball game for 2 hours fast forwarding the commercials. So the score and logo was up for almost 2 hours straight, the IR went away after 15 minutes, and wasn't noticeable on normal content. But I turned pixel orbiter on anyway. I remember with D-Nice's Kuro 5020FD settings it said what mode to put orbiter in.
D-Nice uses the orbiter on all his displays and thinks it's useful. Others differ. I'm not sure. confused.gif

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post #633 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

D-Nice uses the orbiter on all his displays and thinks it's useful. Others differ. I'm not sure. confused.gif
I leave it on all the time because I cant tell the difference and I figure it cant hurt.

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post #634 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 04:51 PM
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I leave it on also. Worst thing about it is it will cut off a few pixels on HD content using 1:1 pixel mode as it shifts the image around... hardly an issue. Just turn it off while running the slides... other than that, it's up to you.
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post #635 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Blu_One View Post

Oh yeah, I think you'll have to for sure !

Especially since it will be the last game of the season wink.giftongue.gif

So after 1 period I'm definitely enjoying the game and the picture quality... but I expected the ice to be more white. I've tried using all the picture modes. This is my first plasma, so maybe this is just an inherent limitation to plasma? Or could I possibly have a defective set?
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post #636 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonisgreen View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu_One View Post

Oh yeah, I think you'll have to for sure !

Especially since it will be the last game of the season wink.giftongue.gif

So after 1 period I'm definitely enjoying the game and the picture quality... but I expected the ice to be more white. I've tried using all the picture modes. This is my first plasma, so maybe this is just an inherent limitation to plasma? Or could I possibly have a defective set?
Do you go to a lot of games? I suppose it depends on the arena, and I've only been to one game in San Jose, but I didn't think the ice was pure white -- far from it.

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post #637 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Do you go to a lot of games? I suppose it depends on the arena, and I've only been to one game in San Jose, but I didn't think the ice was pure white -- far from it.

Yes, been to many games. Not expecting pure white.. just a brighter white. A better example is when a commercial is on that uses a white background (like the apple commercials), it is a dull greyish/white.
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post #638 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 07:30 PM
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I just asked this on the shootout winner thread. I didn't know if the higher peak luminance of the ST60 or Sammy F8500 would help with the whites of the ice. I love hockey and its what I watch most on my TV. Hoping maybe Dnice or another person who knows can chime in on this
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post #639 of 3458 Old 05-12-2013, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bzal1122 View Post

I just asked this on the shootout winner thread. I didn't know if the higher peak luminance of the ST60 or Sammy F8500 would help with the whites of the ice. I love hockey and its what I watch most on my TV. Hoping maybe Dnice or another person who knows can chime in on this

Thanks for pointing out that thread. I'll keep an eye on it.

Here are two pics I took. One with flash, one without. Not sure if it can accurately show my concern about whites not being displayed, but I figured I'd give it a shot anyway.


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post #640 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonisgreen View Post

Yes, been to many games. Not expecting pure white.. just a brighter white. A better example is when a commercial is on that uses a white background (like the apple commercials), it is a dull greyish/white.
Not sure about the 2013 models but you can get that on the 2012s if you are in Energy Saving mode. Menu > Setup > ECO/energy saving > Power save
Make sure under Power save it says "Standard". NOT "Saving".

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post #641 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Not sure about the 2013 models but you can get that on the 2012s if you are in Energy Saving mode. Menu > Setup > ECO/energy saving > Power save
Make sure under Power save it says "Standard". NOT "Saving".

It is on standard.

I'm gonna take my USB stick with the slides to my local store, and see how their unit displays the white slide.
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post #642 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 06:00 AM
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It is on standard.

I'm gonna take my USB stick with the slides to my local store, and see how their unit displays the white slide.

I think you're overreacting a bit there. I promise you the results won't be any different on a floor model. What have you done in terms of picture settings? White when displayed full screen (on a plasma) looks fairly gray, but the contrast ratio of this set should completely negate that fact. You're eye's take the brightest and darkest points and assume those are pure white and pure black. With such dark blacks on this set, it actually makes the whites appear brighter than most TVs (unless using LCD torch mode, which is a strong blue push) So with actual content on the screen, there shouldn't be any grey whites unless you're brain is broken or the TV isn't somewhat calibrated.
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post #643 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 06:27 AM
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Anyone got any 3D settings? Can you use DNice settings then adjust? I have read that for 3D you have to turn on motion smoother to med or high, anything else?
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post #644 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 07:21 AM
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Anyone got any 3D settings? Can you use DNice settings then adjust? I have read that for 3D you have to turn on motion smoother to med or high, anything else?

Until some calibration settings are posted, I'm using the default Home Theater 3d mode, but with motion smoother set to medium, and brightness at +5. I used a DVE calibration disk to get the brightness setting.

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post #645 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 07:41 AM
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So long story short Amazon is coming to pick my my 65"VT60 , I tried living with the fans but I gave up I can hear it from my kitchen ... But unlike others I am going to do a 1:1 exchange because I honestly believe the VT60 is the best TV in the world right now under $10,000 or so : ) ... If my next one is loud knock on wood it isn't I might just deal with it this time , but others seem to have better luck than me so I hope it was just a glitch

Just called today and it will be here weds they will do a switch .. Just sad I am losing over 300 quality break in time , 150 in slides and 150+ in HD viewing
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post #646 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 07:49 AM
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So long story short Amazon is coming to pick my my 65"VT60 , I tried living with the fans but I gave up I can hear it from my kitchen ... But unlike others I am going to do a 1:1 exchange because I honestly believe the VT60 is the best TV in the world right now under $10,000 or so : ) ... If my next one is loud knock on wood it isn't I might just deal with it this time , but others seem to have better luck than me so I hope it was just a glitch

Just called today and it will be here weds they will do a switch .. Just sad I am losing over 300 quality break in time , 150 in slides and 150+ in HD viewing

If it turns out to be an issue with room acoustics, a single sound panel behind the tv (or as close to the fan as possible) should tame the noise very effectively. Check out ATS, Gik, or Acoustimac.
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post #647 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 08:38 AM
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I never saw the pixel orbiter settings. Where is it?

Someone said it should be under Menu-Setup-Image Retention, but there is no such setting on my 60ST60.
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post #648 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 10:30 AM
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I never saw the pixel orbiter settings. Where is it?

Someone said it should be under Menu-Setup-Image Retention, but there is no such setting on my 60ST60.

It's under screen settings 2nd from the bottom buddy : )
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post #649 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 05:59 PM
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I noticed immediately (especially in gray colors) that the pixels seem a little jittery...kind of like the snowy effect you see in cable TVs when you switch to a channel with no destination/reception and get the black/white dots that jump all over. Is that normal? I'm hoping so, and that the calibration slides will help with this. Otherwise do I have a dud? I can't see them unless I am about 12 inches away from the screen, but it does not look right.
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post #650 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

I noticed immediately (especially in gray colors) that the pixels seem a little jittery...kind of like the snowy effect you see in cable TVs when you switch to a channel with no destination/reception and get the black/white dots that jump all over. Is that normal? I'm hoping so, and that the calibration slides will help with this. Otherwise do I have a dud? I can't see them unless I am about 12 inches away from the screen, but it does not look right.

It's normal it will calm down
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post #651 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 06:56 PM
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I just heard from another site that Dnice has now recommending 300 hours on the display before calibration, but he hasn't changed the first post. Has anyone else heard this? He apparently said it at the shoot-out. I had my TV calibrated at 200 hours...I hope this isn't the case
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post #652 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 07:05 PM
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I just heard from another site that Dnice has now recommending 300 hours on the display before calibration, but he hasn't changed the first post. Has anyone else heard this? He apparently said it at the shoot-out. I had my TV calibrated at 200 hours...I hope this isn't the case
I don't think he is talking about his settings in post number one when he recommends 300 hours. I'm guessing, but I think he means that people should use their TV for at least 300 hours before they have it professionally calibrated. smile.gif

If I'm wrong, D-Nice will probably let us know. biggrin.gif

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post #653 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 07:08 PM
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Here is an informal approximation for 3D settings. I used defaults unless indicated.

Picture
Picture Mode: Cinema
Contrast: 85
Brightness: +8
Color: 40
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 35
Color Temp: Warm2
Motion Smoother: Strong

Pro Settings
Panel Brightness: High

Gamma Detail Adjustment
Gamma: 2.0

3D Settings
3D adjustment:
Effect: +3

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post #654 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I don't think he is talking about his settings in post number one when he recommends 300 hours. I'm guessing, but I think he means that people should use there TV for at least 300 hours before the have it professionally calibrated. smile.gif

If I'm wrong, D-Nice will probably let us know. biggrin.gif
Makes sense.

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post #655 of 3458 Old 05-13-2013, 08:19 PM
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I had the same problems using my mac. I deleted the hidden files ( anything on the usb stick starting with a "." ).
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post #656 of 3458 Old 05-14-2013, 08:00 AM
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At the risk of sounding obnoxious,

1. Who is D-Nice? Is he a professional calibrator, a Panasonic employee, or just some guy that has a good rep on the message boards?

2. Exactly how did he (or anyone else) come to the conclusion that this entire process was optimal? And when I say process I mean not only the 100 hours and slides, but also how were the 12 colors of the slides known to be beneficial, how did the 100 hours come to be, and why would these slides not be helpful if we wanted to use different settings?

I just never read a link between this process and how it was derived, so I just want to make sure this is all necessary or at least more beneficial to your set than just plugging it in and watching away at whatever settings you want. For me, I would not get a custom calibration as they are pricey and I am generally happy with Cnet or other recommended settings (potentially D-Nice's when I finally can use them).

Sorry to sound like an ass, I just feel the answers to these questions are necessary to a thread like this.
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post #657 of 3458 Old 05-14-2013, 08:04 AM
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DNice is a highly regarded professional calibrator.
I hope he doesnt see this post and get a big head. biggrin.gif

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post #658 of 3458 Old 05-14-2013, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tuffluck View Post

I just never read a link between this process and how it was derived, so I just want to make sure this is all necessary or at least more beneficial to your set than just plugging it in and watching away at whatever settings you want.
I don't think you're ever going to find these things out, and I don't think you should conclude that it is all necessary or beneficial to you if you're not hiring D-Nice. It makes sense for him to have a standard way for his customers to age their TV's phosphors before he does a calibration for them, so they don't have to hire him to do another later calibration. And he tells us what his procedure is, and that it is more likely you'll get results approaching his if you follow his procedure. That's all there is.

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post #659 of 3458 Old 05-14-2013, 08:34 AM
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Yes, been to many games. Not expecting pure white.. just a brighter white. A better example is when a commercial is on that uses a white background (like the apple commercials), it is a dull greyish/white.

It also depends on the quality of the HD broadcast. I was going back and forth between 2 games on different channels and the games on CNBC seemed to have a better all around picture. My local Fox sports Midwest channel looks like crap even in HD. The ice looks like its dirty not even close to white. I think it depends on the camera as well, Some of the close up shots look better. The main center ice camera looks horrible to me.
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post #660 of 3458 Old 05-14-2013, 08:55 AM
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I don't think you're ever going to find these things out, and I don't think you should conclude that it is all necessary or beneficial to you if you're not hiring D-Nice. It makes sense for him to have a standard way for his customers to age their TV's phosphors before he does a calibration for them, so they don't have to hire him to do another later calibration. And he tells us what his procedure is, and that it is more likely you'll get results approaching his if you follow his procedure. That's all there is.

Cool, thanks. I was just looking for some intel on how all of this came to be. Knowing that he himself is a calibrator makes this process seem much more reasonable.
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