2013 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread - Page 46 - AVS Forum
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post #1351 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slosvt View Post

The intial calibration is simply that. The TV has very few hours on it, so it will be a few weeks before I do any critical viewing and perform a calibration for "Night" viewing. My meter did pull a MLL of .0013 with the settings I posted.

I also found that a contrast setting of 81 in Professional produced @ 29 FtL (which is more than bright enough at night for my sensitive eyes). This was measured with a i1 Display Pro (touching the screen) and the Chromapure window pattern from the AVS disc.

I take it you have a VT60 NA. What I found is it took about 300 hours before my VT60 settled down.
btw, before I got my VT60 I went to BB/magnolia and ran a few quick profiles on there VT60, using my Radiance Mini 3D as the pattern source using on screen mode for my meter. When I got my VT60 at home and about 150 hours on it I ran a quick profile on it and got just about the same readings as the profiles I got on the demo at BB.

Yes 29 FtL is fine. I think Tom recommends using about 18" off screen for a meter. I don't use CP so you should check it out for yourself.
Here's the problem, your meter will probably not be reliable to read a 0.0013 MLL. However if you are getting repeatable readings of 0.0013 (3 or 4 times in a row after you have completed your calibration the next day) then maybe you have that 1 exception

I had a C6 (same meter as your I1D3) and it would never read that low consistently. I also have had other AVS members that had a C6 or I1D3 PM me asking about how low the meter will read at a consistent level. There finding was the same as mine with there meter. I should add that I always had my C6 off screen using the tri pod arm that comes with the C6.
That said, the I1D3 meter is a great bang for the buck, and if I still did a normal type of calibration I would still be using my C6..

ss
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post #1352 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jtheby05 View Post

Soooo when running the slides - does it appear that the pixels are shifting/dancing around a lot if you look at the TV closely? Just curious rolleyes.gif

During normal material even, you'll see pixels dancing around a lot if you are close enough. That's how it makes colors. From a distance it looks fine. Not sure if that is what you are seeing.
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post #1353 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slosvt View Post

The intial calibration is simply that. The TV has very few hours on it, so it will be a few weeks before I do any critical viewing and perform a calibration for "Night" viewing. My meter did pull a MLL of .0013 with the settings I posted.

I also found that a contrast setting of 81 in Professional produced @ 29 FtL (which is more than bright enough at night for my sensitive eyes). This was measured with a i1 Display Pro (touching the screen) and the Chromapure window pattern from the AVS disc.


slosvt,

Your Contrast setting and the resulting peak luminance reading is interesting. Using my certified i1 Pro spectro and Ryan Masciola's 6.5 % windows I get just under 29 ftL with Contrast at 50 in a Pro mode. My Gamma control is set at 2.4 (actual avg reading of 2.21) with very little deviation required in the default settings for the W/B 2 or 10 point settings and for the gamma detail settings.

And for those who may feel the uncontrollable need to insert themselves to criticize, all "enhancements" were off or set at zero.

I performed the measurements with the meter in contact mode and off the panel by about 6 inches. The results were about the same in both cases.

When I get the time, maybe this weekend, I'll see what I measure with the contrast is at 81.

Larry
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post #1354 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

I take it you have a VT60 NA. What I found is it took about 300 hours before my VT60 settled down.
btw, before I got my VT60 I went to BB/magnolia and ran a few quick profiles on there VT60, using my Radiance Mini 3D as the pattern source using on screen mode for my meter. When I got my VT60 at home and about 150 hours on it I ran a quick profile on it and got just about the same readings as the profiles I got on the demo at BB.

Yes 29 FtL is fine. I think Tom recommends using about 18" off screen for a meter. I don't use CP so you should check it out for yourself.
Here's the problem, your meter will probably not be reliable to read a 0.0013 MLL. However if you are getting repeatable readings of 0.0013 (3 or 4 times in a row after you have completed your calibration the next day) then maybe you have that 1 exception

I had a C6 (same meter as your I1D3) and it would never read that low consistently. I also have had other AVS members that had a C6 or I1D3 PM me asking about how low the meter will read at a consistent level. There finding was the same as mine with there meter. I should add that I always had my C6 off screen using the tri pod arm that comes with the C6.
That said, the I1D3 meter is a great bang for the buck, and if I still did a normal type of calibration I would still be using my C6..

ss
Personally I haven't seen many (if any) people have problems reading down to ~0.001fL with the C6/D3. Maybe your C6 was a lemon. Mine has no problem. slosvt's seems fine, too.
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post #1355 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikedahammer View Post

I looked through lots of the threads and posts it looks like the VT60 does not have any recommended settings posted by D-Nice or other respectable calibrators (if I missed it can you link me back to it)?

Am I correct that there are no recommended settings posted for the VT60? Is this due to the variations on the panels? Are people still running the slides even though there are no recommended setting per se.
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Originally Posted by nitzant View Post

As far as I know, you are correct, no settings from well known calibrators at this time. There are the CNET settings (which seem limited/minimal), and the few which are posted on this thread (by users who calibrated their panels). Could be due to the variation, but the real reason is beyond me, esp. for a model that is getting this much 'buzz'. The slides are a good idea no matter what (unrelated to the settings), they help break-in the new screen uniformly (the most important thing is to avoid static images for extend periods of time for the first 200 hours).

It's good to see that other people are looking for the same thing as I am. I have been reading through too many posts in these mega-threads to find the best settings to start with on my new TC-P65VT60, and I have essentially come to the same conclusion as nitzant in his post above.

I watched about 15 min of a blu ray when I received the TV to test it, and then started D-Nice's slides. I'm about 75 hrs into the slides. Seems like it's as good as any way to evenly age the phosphors during the break in period, and if D-Nice posts settings, I'll be able to use that as a starting place. In the mean time, I'm trying to figure out the best path to take. Obviously the pro calibration is always an option, but it seems better to wait until 300-400 hrs to do that.
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post #1356 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Personally I haven't seen many (if any) people have problems reading down to ~0.001fL with the C6/D3. Maybe your C6 was a lemon. Mine has no problem. slosvt's seems fine, too.

rahzel,

I'm looking forward to getting my D3. I dropped the D2 on a tile floor over last weekend.

Now I will be able finally to set my Brightness control. Just think that for all those many, many past years I could never do it because I didn't have the proper meter. biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif


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post #1357 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

slosvt,

Your Contrast setting and the resulting peak luminance reading is interesting. Using my certified i1 Pro spectro and Ryan Masciola's 6.5 % windows I get just under 29 ftL with Contrast at 50 in a Pro mode. My Gamma control is set at 2.4 (actual avg reading of 2.21) with very little deviation required in the default settings for the W/B 2 or 10 point settings and for the gamma detail settings.

And for those who may feel the uncontrollable need to insert themselves to criticize, all "enhancements" were off or set at zero.

I performed the measurements with the meter in contact mode and off the panel by about 6 inches. The results were about the same in both cases.

When I get the time, maybe this weekend, I'll see what I measure with the contrast is at 81.

Larry

Larry,

Even since I received the i1 Display Pro, I have not really used the i1 Pro (just profile and go). Maybe I will give the higher IRE windows a shot with the i1 Pro to see what I get.

If the readings are different, then I guess there is a trade off in the X-rite camp. i1 Display Pro for MLL or i1 Pro for peak luminance...
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post #1358 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

rahzel,

I'm looking forward to getting my D3. I dropped the D2 on a tile floor over last weekend.

Now I will be able finally to set my Brightness control. Just think that for all those many, many past years I could never do it because I didn't have the proper meter. biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif


Larry

My D2 was replaced because of a similiar situation! biggrin.gif
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post #1359 of 3453 Old 07-31-2013, 08:06 PM
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I was carrying my i1 Pro spectro in its suitcase and usb cables in one hand. In the other hand, I had the D2, a usb hub, and the hub's power supply. The D2 bounced up about a foot when it hit the tile. Oh, well. I plugged it in and nada. I ordered the D3 immediately -- on sale (or maybe price drop) for $219.

[sigh] I wish this Red Sox game would end.


Larry
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post #1360 of 3453 Old 08-01-2013, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

rahzel,

I'm looking forward to getting my D3. I dropped the D2 on a tile floor over last weekend.
Ouch. I'm sure you got good use out of your old D2. It's about time you retired it. smile.gif
I know you profiled your D2 to your i1 pro, but the D3 is just much better designed and convenient to use compared to the D2. Not to mention it can read lower luminance and is maybe more stable at lower stimulus.
Quote:
Now I will be able finally to set my Brightness control. Just think that for all those many, many past years I could never do it because I didn't have the proper meter. biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif


Larry
smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by slosvt View Post

Larry,

Even since I received the i1 Display Pro, I have not really used the i1 Pro (just profile and go). Maybe I will give the higher IRE windows a shot with the i1 Pro to see what I get.

If the readings are different, then I guess there is a trade off in the X-rite camp. i1 Display Pro for MLL or i1 Pro for peak luminance...
Is your Y (luminance) readings much different between your i1pro and D3? It should be fairly close that you shouldn't need it for peak luminance either.
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post #1361 of 3453 Old 08-01-2013, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Personally I haven't seen many (if any) people have problems reading down to ~0.001fL with the C6/D3. Maybe your C6 was a lemon. Mine has no problem. slosvt's seems fine, too.

I am not saying that I couldn't get a reading of 0.001 with the C6 profiled by my I1pro 2, what I am saying is for me It was not always repeatable. If its not repeatable I don't trust the meter.
And the same goes for when I did profile using CM5, the offsets were never the same. So maybe that has something to do with the repeatable problem.
The other PM's I got were from DYI'ers that also profiled there I1D3 using a I1 pro, one using CM5 and the other using CP to profile.
One of the two that were also frustrated by the repeatable problem did get a Klein (he uses LightSpace and has CM5) the other is on the fence.

Now to take this one step further when setting your Gamut/luminance/CIE chart and numbers doing a normal calibration, you are not for the most part using triplets you are using the normal RGBCMY and what ever stimulus you use, probably around 75%. When doing a large profile/LUT cube type of calibration of say 4913 points you are using triplets and not the disc's like AVSHD so therefore because of the sheer number of patterns measured you must use a triplet pattern generator. What this means is your meter must be able to read many very deep very low stimulus/luminance color triplet patterns. So now you are going from a normal 6 point CIE/Gamut and 10 point gray pattern total of 16 points to a total of 4913 point profile/calibration, and probably setting your pre calibration using W/B H/L and some W/B detail settings.
Bottom line, very detailed and very demanding on the meter.

I hope this clears up (to a degree) where I am coming from.

ss
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post #1362 of 3453 Old 08-02-2013, 05:18 AM
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SS,

What are your thoughts on using Argylcms thru my HTPC with onboard Intel HD graphics post calibration?
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post #1363 of 3453 Old 08-02-2013, 01:13 PM
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Sorry to break into the discussion. I have had a Panansonic Pro HD 7UY that finally gave out after 9.5 years of yeoman service on my wall. I ordered an ST 60, 60" Pani Plasma that will arrive on Sunday. To break in should I just put it on HBO and leave it on for a few days, as they have 0 logo's??? What settings are standard, they used to come in Torch mode... Not anymore??? Any recomendations??? I don't know how to download the settings or "screens referenced earlier and hook it up to the TV. I'm old, beyond my expertise... Sorry to interrupt... Thanx
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post #1364 of 3453 Old 08-02-2013, 01:52 PM
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Yes, HBO is good, no logos (although sometimes there will be an old show that's old and has black side bars for 4:3).

Put the TV on Custom mode, set Brightness/black level if you have something to set it with, put Contrast around 80, turn off the enhancements, and you'll be good to go.

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 0~
Sharpness: 0~25
Color Temp: Warm2
Vivid Color: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off


Pro Settings
Panel Brightness: Low~Mid
AGC: 0
Black Extension: 0
Color Gamut: Normal
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post #1365 of 3453 Old 08-02-2013, 02:01 PM
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Thanx very much for the quick response... I'll put on HBO HD and leave the set on for a few days at your settings. Appreciate it..
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post #1366 of 3453 Old 08-02-2013, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slosvt View Post

SS,

What are your thoughts on using Argylcms thru my HTPC with onboard Intel HD graphics post calibration?

Sorry I have never used MadAV/Argylcms or any on board graphics. I never comment on anything I don't use.

ss
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post #1367 of 3453 Old 08-03-2013, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cyberbri View Post

Yes, HBO is good, no logos (although sometimes there will be an old show that's old and has black side bars for 4:3).

Put the TV on Custom mode, set Brightness/black level if you have something to set it with, put Contrast around 80, turn off the enhancements, and you'll be good to go.

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 0~
Sharpness: 0~25
Color Temp: Warm2
Vivid Color: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
MPEG NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off


Pro Settings
Panel Brightness: Low~Mid
AGC: 0
Black Extension: 0
Color Gamut: Normal

+1. These are good starting settings. If it looks good to you, just leave them here. If not, you can start down the never ending tweaking rabbit hole with the rest of us.
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post #1368 of 3453 Old 08-04-2013, 03:02 PM
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Received the New Pani ST 60" today, right in the delivery window from BB. They are the only store I could find with any stock. Turned right on and I dialed in the picture settings posted for me above.. [Thanx again]. My only mistake was not writing down the "out of box settings".. If I remember it came in standard mode, I switched to Custom. To be sure, just leave it on for about 4 days straight on HBO HD, which is about the only channel I know with very few logos, right????. Pretty impressive, so far... I won't try the Blu-Ray until after the break-in period, right??? Appreciate the help...
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post #1369 of 3453 Old 08-04-2013, 10:26 PM
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Hello all. first post here. So I got the st60 a few months back (end of April) and am noticing lingering images from the sets own menu. I'm guessing its too late to run this now. But I want to make sure that's the case for one. And for two I'm curious if maybe these slides can help with these "ghosts" I'm noticing now.

BTW this is my first plasma set and the first set with all these features. Replaced an OLD Panasonic projection big screen from 98.
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post #1370 of 3453 Old 08-04-2013, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Woody Davis View Post

Hello all. first post here. So I got the st60 a few months back (end of April) and am noticing lingering images from the sets own menu. I'm guessing its too late to run this now. But I want to make sure that's the case for one. And for two I'm curious if maybe these slides can help with these "ghosts" I'm noticing now.

BTW this is my first plasma set and the first set with all these features. Replaced an OLD Panasonic projection big screen from 98.
What you're describing is image retention, which is temporary. This is normal for plasma technology, but it should go away with use. Running the prep in this post would not have helped to reduce image retention. Just try to vary your viewing content a bit and try not to make an effort to look for it. If the retained image is very noticeable and takes a while to get rid of it, I would maybe consider exchanging your set.
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Originally Posted by Ray Lucca View Post

Sorry to break into the discussion. I have had a Panansonic Pro HD 7UY that finally gave out after 9.5 years of yeoman service on my wall. I ordered an ST 60, 60" Pani Plasma that will arrive on Sunday. To break in should I just put it on HBO and leave it on for a few days, as they have 0 logo's??? What settings are standard, they used to come in Torch mode... Not anymore??? Any recomendations??? I don't know how to download the settings or "screens referenced earlier and hook it up to the TV. I'm old, beyond my expertise... Sorry to interrupt... Thanx
Use reasonable settings and avoid black bars as much as possible for the first few hundred hours. You want to age the phosphors evenly. It's not completely necessary, but recommended. Logos are harder to avoid and it's not a big deal to view them IMO, just try not to view them for extended periods of time.
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post #1371 of 3453 Old 08-04-2013, 11:00 PM
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Ty for speedy response. I'm obviously still pretty new to a lot of this stuff and I think I could certainly stand to learn more. Curious still if I should stick to Custom settings/Just screen size at this point. I've been using Full up until now.
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post #1372 of 3453 Old 08-05-2013, 08:38 AM
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Day 2 of the ST 60, just couldn't leave it on over-night.. Would have had to leave the TV, Cable Box, and AV Receiver all on HBO HD. I do notice the ST 60 runs hot, really hot, much hotter than my old Pani Pro. Plasma. Of course the picture is better too... As to burn in etc... My older Pro and my current bedroom Pani. Plasma TV have settings in the Menu to turn on for anti burn in, the wobbler etc. Does this set have it, couldn't find anything in the Menu's.. Did I miss it in the Manual??? If it is adjustable, I should turn it on, right??? Appreciate the help, Thanx...
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post #1373 of 3453 Old 08-05-2013, 02:33 PM
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HI Guys I just got my 65" S64 Saturday and while attempting to run D'nice slides I noticed that there are about 8 default photo's in the TV's media player that are are included in the slideshow . I see no way of deleting these photo's. Can someone who has run slides please advise how to delete these photo's or do you just let them run amongst the color slides? One more thing D'nice setting say to format the slide size at NORMAL . In my set the normal setting leaves vertical black bars of 1 1/2 "wide on the right and left edges of the screen. I have set the slide size to Zoom to fill out the screen has anyone else done this with no ill effects post break-in?Thanks Jim
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post #1374 of 3453 Old 08-05-2013, 04:51 PM
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Cosmo, you must be using a Mac to unzip the slides. Look back through the thread for multiple posts which explain how to do it without the extra files.
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post #1375 of 3453 Old 08-05-2013, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray Lucca View Post

Day 2 of the ST 60, just couldn't leave it on over-night.. Would have had to leave the TV, Cable Box, and AV Receiver all on HBO HD. I do notice the ST 60 runs hot, really hot, much hotter than my old Pani Pro. Plasma. Of course the picture is better too... As to burn in etc... My older Pro and my current bedroom Pani. Plasma TV have settings in the Menu to turn on for anti burn in, the wobbler etc. Does this set have it, couldn't find anything in the Menu's.. Did I miss it in the Manual??? If it is adjustable, I should turn it on, right??? Appreciate the help, Thanx...

Pixel orbiter should be turned off (Auto) in the menu settings while running the slides.

Matt
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post #1376 of 3453 Old 08-05-2013, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Woody Davis View Post

Ty for speedy response. I'm obviously still pretty new to a lot of this stuff and I think I could certainly stand to learn more. Curious still if I should stick to Custom settings/Just screen size at this point. I've been using Full up until now.

I would continue to use Full for screen size from what I have read.

Matt
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post #1377 of 3453 Old 08-05-2013, 08:04 PM
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How do I change "More detail adjustment" for W/B and Gamma? I don't see it in the picture settings
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post #1378 of 3453 Old 08-05-2013, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Woody Davis View Post

Ty for speedy response. I'm obviously still pretty new to a lot of this stuff and I think I could certainly stand to learn more. Curious still if I should stick to Custom settings/Just screen size at this point. I've been using Full up until now.
I believe Just mode stretches the sides and leaves the center untouched. 'Full' when used with HD Size 2 is 1:1 pixel mapping mode, so 1080 content is untouched and mapped 1:1. I would use zoom to avoid black bars, then use Full after your panel has aged a few hundred hours.
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Originally Posted by aguy89 View Post

How do I change "More detail adjustment" for W/B and Gamma? I don't see it in the picture settings
Should be in the picture settings -> pro settings menu.
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post #1379 of 3453 Old 08-06-2013, 11:57 AM
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Texas: I'm not running the slides as it is beyond my miniscule computer capabilities. I am running the settings that several of the members posted for me above..[Appreciate it very much]. Should the Pixel Orbiter be shut off for initial viewing??? Since most networks do have logo's I just change channels at every commercial break, usually to HBO HD, that has no on-screen logos. About 12 hours on Sunday, and 5 hours yesterday. Turned it off at the end of my viewing.. Thanx!!
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post #1380 of 3453 Old 08-06-2013, 12:00 PM
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Pixel orbiter on.

And commercial breaks are good for clearing out any IR building up during a show (as is running HBO overnight). If you're just breaking the set in and watching normal TV with potential bad logos, you can turn the Contrast (max white) setting down to 50~60 to be safe.
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