Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 172 - AVS Forum
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post #5131 of 14794 Old 09-29-2013, 11:19 PM
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Don't "assume". Yes it should just say off instead of auto but it doesn't.

E-Mail or call Panasonic and ask them.

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post #5132 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 03:27 AM
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I havent heard anyone say definitively what the difference is between Auto and Off. It would be interesting to hear what Panasonic says.

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post #5133 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 06:43 AM
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I never really understood the usefulness of the pixel orbiter anyway. As I understand it, it shifts the image one pixel in various directions. Unless the image you are hoping to not retain is only 1 pixel in width/height (the History Channel "H" logo, baseball/football score boxes, are definitely bigger than that), I don't see how it can reduce IR in any meaningful way. Maybe it blurs the edges of the object but that would be about it.
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post #5134 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semp1 View Post

It looks to me the only differences are in pro settings. Once adjusting those the settings look exactly the same. I don't know I'll just use cinema. Lol.

I have found on my 60VT60 that with all of the adjustments set the same, custom, professional 1, and professional 2 look the same to me if I cycle through them on both moving images or a still frame except for one thing. If I display a contrast setting pattern (from Spears & Munsil 2nd edition for example), I notice pro 1 and pro 2 only go to about 242 or so above white, while custom goes to 250 or 251.

Cinema mode only goes to 242 or so white, but when I measured it with my meter it puts out a few more ftL at its maximum on my set than the other fully adjustable modes. So when I set contrast to get 30ftL, I might have it set at 79 for custom/pro1/pro2, but only at 67 on Cinema.

I don't know if this is typical or just my panel.
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post #5135 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 08:06 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

Funny thing is Chris usually charges close to same price as ECTV'if you look at actual invoice from shippers for what its insured for. Difference is shipping it would seem. Also i would gladly pay the hundred or so dollar difference to dela with chris then shady ECTV. Shipping receipt via any reputable seller will be insured and usually is insured for the actual tvs sale value.

Just spoke with Chris the other day via email and we discussed purchasing. He will mostl likely be my number one option for buying this set. What an awesome guy and seems like great service. Be nice to get a TV from a fellow AVS member that I've been seeing since the KURO threads. Unfortunately right now I don't have all the cash just yet and there is no finance option with them. I have most of it but would need a few more
Bucks to buy. I would rather do it through paypal then charge a credit card ;(
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post #5136 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpjb View Post

I never really understood the usefulness of the pixel orbiter anyway. As I understand it, it shifts the image one pixel in various directions. Unless the image you are hoping to not retain is only 1 pixel in width/height (the History Channel "H" logo, baseball/football score boxes, are definitely bigger than that), I don't see how it can reduce IR in any meaningful way. Maybe it blurs the edges of the object but that would be about it.
That's about it, it does not really work. You would need to shift the screen an inch, instead of one row of pixels. Of course that will not work, lol.
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post #5137 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpjb View Post

I never really understood the usefulness of the pixel orbiter anyway. As I understand it, it shifts the image one pixel in various directions. Unless the image you are hoping to not retain is only 1 pixel in width/height (the History Channel "H" logo, baseball/football score boxes, are definitely bigger than that), I don't see how it can reduce IR in any meaningful way. Maybe it blurs the edges of the object but that would be about it.
That's about it, it does not really work. You would need to shift the screen an inch, instead of one row of pixels. Of course that will not work, lol.

if you use my method, you can shift the image an inch wink.gif

method: use overscan/screenfit intermittently (aka screenfit HD size 1 or 2)
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post #5138 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpjb View Post

I never really understood the usefulness of the pixel orbiter anyway. As I understand it, it shifts the image one pixel in various directions. Unless the image you are hoping to not retain is only 1 pixel in width/height (the History Channel "H" logo, baseball/football score boxes, are definitely bigger than that), I don't see how it can reduce IR in any meaningful way. Maybe it blurs the edges of the object but that would be about it.

Why not test it out? Turn on ESPN, leave it on for 3 hours with PO set to ON. Check for the ESPN logo after 3 hours. Wait for the slight IR to fade, then do it again, this time with PO set to Auto. Then compare.

I've done this, the results are much better with PO set to ON.

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post #5139 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 02:35 PM
 
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^^im hoping that was sarcasm?! Just doesn't seem like a good idea.

Is there a specific build date that people are aiming for? I see a lot of talk stating the fix is being done at the factory After build date of JULY 2013...has this proven to be true or just hopes?
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post #5140 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 03:04 PM
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post #5141 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

^^im hoping that was sarcasm?! Just doesn't seem like a good idea.

Is there a specific build date that people are aiming for? I see a lot of talk stating the fix is being done at the factory After build date of JULY 2013...has this proven to be true or just hopes?
Fix for what? Fans?

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post #5142 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeLfMaDe111985 View Post

^^im hoping that was sarcasm?! Just doesn't seem like a good idea.

Is there a specific build date that people are aiming for? I see a lot of talk stating the fix is being done at the factory After build date of JULY 2013...has this proven to be true or just hopes?

Why doesn't it seem like a good idea? It won't harm your TV. If you have a better suggestion to offer for others to compare PO on/auto. By all means....

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post #5143 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 06:07 PM
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Just bought this TV and having a problem with my harmony one remote turning the TV off when i switch from "watch TV" to "watch blu-ray". My previous TV never had this issue. Any suggestions? Thanks.

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post #5144 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janick View Post

Just bought this TV and having a problem with my harmony one remote turning the TV off when i switch from "watch TV" to "watch blu-ray". My previous TV never had this issue. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Reprogram the Harmony.

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post #5145 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Reprogram the Harmony.

I did, and everything else works perfectly. This is the only issue and can not find where to stop it from turning off

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post #5146 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by janick View Post

I did, and everything else works perfectly. This is the only issue and can not find where to stop it from turning off

Did you go into the actions and make sure the VT is set to stay on during blu ray?

Might have to redo the blu ray activity set up.

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post #5147 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jconjason View Post

Did you go into the actions and make sure the VT is set to stay on during blu ray?

Might have to redo the blu ray activity set up.

I redid the activity and it worked, thanks

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post #5148 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 09:01 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jconjason View Post

Why doesn't it seem like a good idea? It won't harm your TV. If you have a better suggestion to offer for others to compare PO on/auto. By all means....

Instead of experimenting with a expensive set...how about emailing Panasonic or looking in your manual. That would be my suggestion. Burn in is extremely hard to get these days, but as far as IR it is definitely possible to get long lasting IR by trying this "experiment". And that can not only be annoying but discerning to the consumer who is already worried enough about IR and doesn't have much experience with higher end plasmas. But that's just me to each his own
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post #5149 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 09:03 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Fix for what? Fans?
Yes but I know techs are coming out to fix
This issue since it has been addressed by panasonic but I would like one that already has it installed so my panel doesn't have to
Come off. Not a big deal but it's nice reassurance and piece of mind
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post #5150 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 09:07 PM
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Hey there folks! I just bought this awesome TV after reading/researching this thread here the passed days! I just wanted to say a big THANKS to all of you guys in here for the time and knowledge you've invested in here for all of us to access! I got the VT60 for 1600 is it a good price?

Cheers!
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post #5151 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpjb View Post

I have found on my 60VT60 that with all of the adjustments set the same, custom, professional 1, and professional 2 look the same to me if I cycle through them on both moving images or a still frame except for one thing. If I display a contrast setting pattern (from Spears & Munsil 2nd edition for example), I notice pro 1 and pro 2 only go to about 242 or so above white, while custom goes to 250 or 251.

Cinema mode only goes to 242 or so white, but when I measured it with my meter it puts out a few more ftL at its maximum on my set than the other fully adjustable modes. So when I set contrast to get 30ftL, I might have it set at 79 for custom/pro1/pro2, but only at 67 on Cinema.

I don't know if this is typical or just my panel.
Well until I adjusted all the settings in the pro sub menu under custom and cinema to look the same custom appeared darker but once the gamma was changed to match and the AGC along with black extension, color gamut and panel brightness everything is exact but just to be on the safe side I will use the cinema mode for the cnet settings and reset everything in custom back to default since it will go unused. Not like it matters in the end I am assuming Cnet used this mode simply because it starts with a better foundation instead of adjusting custom to match cinema or figure out more than necessary. All I know is with the Cnet settings the results are amazing on my set. Just amazing!

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post #5152 of 14794 Old 09-30-2013, 11:55 PM
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do you guys think something like this to protect the TV is a waist of money? http://excessups.com/blog/panasonic-65-1080p-600hz-3d-plasma-smart-tv-power-backup/
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post #5153 of 14794 Old 10-01-2013, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gosas View Post

do you guys think something like this to protect the TV is a waist of money? http://excessups.com/blog/panasonic-65-1080p-600hz-3d-plasma-smart-tv-power-backup/

I've used a couple of the SmartUPS 1400s for years as UPSes for my ht system. When I got the zt60, I'm fairly sure I was getting buzz coming from the UPS the tv was plugged into when screen was white/bright. This with THX Cinema mode set to default, or possibly even with contrast backed off a bit. I've since had the tv plugged into the wall, and with THX Cinema no buzzing. Recently jacked up the contrast some (with the Sight & Sound settings), and now there's some buzz, but from the tv, not the UPSs (guess I should double check, see next paragraph.)

Funny thing I noticed today that even with the tv plugged into the wall (different wall plug), one of the 1400s went into backup mode (fans running loud) right when I powered up the zt60. Just a bunch of goofiness going on, probably have a pretty good load going on. (The older 1400s do not run their fans 99% of time unless they are in backup mode. (The newer ones have their fans on all of the time, at a low level under normal conditions.). The 700 has no fan, or didn't when I bought the one in the other room, or if it does, it only runs while in backup mode.)

I do think a UPS will protect your tv, and your disc players, and etc. We get a good number of power losses, some lightning hits, etc and I'm sure they've helped keep my system running well without issue for several years, and not needing to have things repaired or anything (knock on wood). Subwoofer may be exception, but not sure if it had anything to do with the UPSes or just my doing dumb things with it (or the UPS) when the subwoofer was plugged into the UPS; may have got a lightning hit nearby on one particular day, but was not home at the time. Also have similar UPSes backing up my computers as well, without issue.

Anyway the whole point of my post is that yes it would be wise to use a UPS with your electronics, but possibly it might buzz with these tvs.
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post #5154 of 14794 Old 10-01-2013, 01:42 AM
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Thanks for answering so fast! Glad to hear the ups might have helped your electronics running all these years! which one would you recommend for the VT60?
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post #5155 of 14794 Old 10-01-2013, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gosas View Post

do you guys think something like this to protect the TV is a waist of money? http://excessups.com/blog/panasonic-65-1080p-600hz-3d-plasma-smart-tv-power-backup/

The ad reads that a 65VT30 uses 159W. I have a 65VT50 with a power strip that has a built in watt meter. Very often it'll get up to 400 watts and higher. If you go this route, I'd be concerned as to how well the UPS would work for the watt levels you'd actually be using.

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post #5156 of 14794 Old 10-01-2013, 05:22 AM
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A UPS like that will not save your expensive plasma from damage due to surges, lightning etc.

The TV already has decent surge protection on that end, but even the best surge protection will typically only prevent distant lightning transients. It will not stop lightning due to the power pole outside your home being struck.

Typically lightning will go through the cable TV box (from the cable TV wire) out the HDMI port into the main board of these TVs. It will wreck havoc. Typically after fixing a damaged power board in any TV it is found either the HDMI ports do not work or the whole main board does not work. The damage typically happens from multiple angles of attack so repairs are costly.

Alternative routes include antennas (even with lightning guards), other devices with inferior mains surge protection (e.g. bluray player, games console...) or in rare cases induction (high current in nearby cables inducing a smaller current in the wire.)

My suggestion is to get insurance/warranty or chalk it up to bad luck when the failure does occur, because a UPS will NOT save your TV.
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post #5157 of 14794 Old 10-01-2013, 08:59 AM
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That's good info. Thanks Tom.
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After a few years of very happy 60" 9G KURO use, I thought PQ was at its pinnacle until the 4K sets hit (with their early KURO price tags).

Well, I did have a 65" Panasonic 65GT30 for awhile, until it went bad (replaced by Warrantech....finally....long and irritating experience). That TV still didn't equal the KURO (that went from my HT into my Den).

While fighting with Warrantech, I started to look at other TVs for a possible replacement. I viewed the usual suspects....Samsung 80009 and 8500 series, those big Sharp displays, the Sony LCDs.

I still couldn't bring myself to trade off the color accuracy, color "pop", black level details of my KURO and Panny GT30. So, I ruled out the LCD/LED sets.

That left me with the Panny ST/VT/ZT series and the Samsung 8500 series. Tough choice between those two and they're both very good. I'm a tweaker and use the Spears & Munsil disk for set up. Seeing the Panasonic 65VT60 set on THX cinema, out of the box, I knew the TV I was getting.

Afte rsome tweaking on delivery, the image is stunning....absolutely stunning.....better than my KURO, better than any other TV I've ever viewed.

Very pleased.

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Afte rsome tweaking on delivery, the image is stunning....absolutely stunning.....better than my KURO, better than any other TV I've ever viewed.

Very pleased.
Careful, man, that kinda' heresy can get you burned at the stake. wink.gif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

The ad reads that a 65VT30 uses 159W. I have a 65VT50 with a power strip that has a built in watt meter. Very often it'll get up to 400 watts and higher. If you go this route, I'd be concerned as to how well the UPS would work for the watt levels you'd actually be using.
Actually I have my Denon 5805 receiver plugged into one of the 1400s. Don't know how much wattage it draws under normal operation, but it is running 10 channels of 170 watts. Seems to work pretty well with its own UPS.

As far as what would be needed for your tv, I couldn't say. (Per my prior post, my zt60 resulted in the UPS buzzing (the UPS being another 1400), so I'm not using one right now; I should at least put it on a surge strip I suppose. What kind of power strip are you using?

(Edit: And per my location, a UPS is mandatory, too many lightning storms that want to take the power down, sometime multiple power flickers and/or outages during messy snow storms, etc. Plus they do have surge protection as well, although I couldn't say how that stands up to repeated hits. Maybe I've been lucky with the lightning part, but have had some pretty close near direct hits (and power outs). I definitely prefer to keep the equipment I have, and there is no way it would have stood up to the weather around here (and my local expensive and flakey power grid) without them.)
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