Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 325 - AVS Forum
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post #9721 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hobaoe View Post

hi, im finally done running slides for 300 hours. but i cant find d-Nice calibrated settings for the vt60.
anybody want to give me a link were it is?
thanks alot...
http://www.controlcal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=939
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post #9722 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by p3Orion View Post

I noticed a dim picture too, but with Showtime's Homeland using THX Cinema and D-Nice's ISF-NIght. The blu-rays I've watched - Up, Toy Story 3, Game of Thrones, Band of Brothers - look superb though. It's like the blacks and darker colors are so dark that it makes it difficult to clearly see the image.

I totally agree. All of the non-sports content looks absolutely stunning!! Even the closeups in a sporting event and in the studio looks great. However, the games (especially night games) are somewhat dim. I will say that every detail and shadow of the field can be seen but it makes everyone look like dark spots instead of people. Dark colored uniforms (like the Philadelphia Eagles green) almost look black and blobbish. Maybe most here watch a lot of movies and that's why they don't notice?
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post #9723 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Ejs71 View Post

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Originally Posted by Donat76 View Post

You can right click on the file and open with notepad. Google chrome or IE will also open it.
Thanks.. but I forgot to mention I'm using a Mac.
Anyone know how to open the D-Nice settings on a Mac?

http://www.google.com/mac/
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post #9724 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 11:34 AM
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I can't believe I'm saying this, but apparently I'm a new 55" VT60 owner with it being delivered tomorrow.
I've been a long term Kuro 5020 owner, and I have a bit more space in the new house, so I've been looking at 55" options, with stock dwindling quickly I bumped up my purchase to this week.

I'm sure I'll have questions, but at the moment I'm reviewing the existing threads.
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post #9725 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 12:04 PM
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Where do I get those HDMI elbow connectors?

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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

There's enough room behind the screen to allow for 'some' cabling. The way the back panel is formed the VESA mount is stepped back from the rest of the rear by about 1/4". There's another 1/4" step about half-way to the connectors. So you'd have about 1/2" where the connectors are. That'd be enough to allow most cabling to squeeze between. Assuming you'd be bringing the cabling into some sort of opening or box in the wall.

Just take care to avoid cabling with monstrously large toroids on them.

This is a crude attempt to show what I'm talking about.



The vertical red lines are where there's a bump in the back panel. The stair-stepped line roughly shows the way it's indented.

Note, the huge toroids on the cabling. In this particular situation I don't care about their size as this mount doesn't require the display ever be pushed all the way back. I'm also using some L-adapters (270 degree units, from monoprice). This to bring the connection back and then inward toward the center, instead of forcing the cabling to be bent. I may or may not use similar ones for the component connections at the bottom. I'm mainly trying to avoid anyone grabbing the cabling accidentally when pivoting the display.

I did a rough measure and those connectors require only about 1/8" additional thickness beyond the total depth of the display. That's pretty close, quite likely less than whatever vertical mount is going to be attached to the back of the display. The display itself comes in around 2-1/8" thick and that connector L only made the whole thing about 2-1/4". Now, don't hold me to that exact amount. But I'd say if you wanted to wrap the connections around like that you'd still be able to get a very close to flush mounting. Worst case you'd have to put a box of some sort into the wall to allow for the cabling to recess anyway.
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post #9726 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynerd View Post

Where do I get those HDMI elbow connectors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

There's enough room behind the screen to allow for 'some' cabling. The way the back panel is formed the VESA mount is stepped back from the rest of the rear by about 1/4". There's another 1/4" step about half-way to the connectors. So you'd have about 1/2" where the connectors are. That'd be enough to allow most cabling to squeeze between. Assuming you'd be bringing the cabling into some sort of opening or box in the wall.

Just take care to avoid cabling with monstrously large toroids on them.

This is a crude attempt to show what I'm talking about.



The vertical red lines are where there's a bump in the back panel. The stair-stepped line roughly shows the way it's indented.

Note, the huge toroids on the cabling. In this particular situation I don't care about their size as this mount doesn't require the display ever be pushed all the way back. I'm also using some L-adapters (270 degree units, from monoprice). This to bring the connection back and then inward toward the center, instead of forcing the cabling to be bent. I may or may not use similar ones for the component connections at the bottom. I'm mainly trying to avoid anyone grabbing the cabling accidentally when pivoting the display.

I did a rough measure and those connectors require only about 1/8" additional thickness beyond the total depth of the display. That's pretty close, quite likely less than whatever vertical mount is going to be attached to the back of the display. The display itself comes in around 2-1/8" thick and that connector L only made the whole thing about 2-1/4". Now, don't hold me to that exact amount. But I'd say if you wanted to wrap the connections around like that you'd still be able to get a very close to flush mounting. Worst case you'd have to put a box of some sort into the wall to allow for the cabling to recess anyway.

From his post...

"I'm also using some L-adapters (270 degree units, from monoprice)."

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041913&p_id=3850&seq=1&format=2

"WARNING: Since port alignment differs from one device to another, it is difficult to state which way this port saver will point on your particular device. For that reason, we offer two different angled models, one with a 90 degree bend, which angles toward the beveled side of the connector, and a 270 degree connector, which points in the opposite direction. Please look at the orientation of the HDMI port on your device to determine how it is aligned and whether this port saver will point your cable in the direction you desire."
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post #9727 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 12:17 PM
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Hey all,

If I intend to make changes to any of the 'preset' picture settings, for example if I make a change to the THX picture mode do I need to write down what the settings were from factory or is there a way to get it back to the original settings? A factory reset for just one picture setting per se?

I'm going to be taking delivery of my tv soon and I wanted to check to see if I should write things down before I start playing around smile.gif
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post #9728 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynerd View Post

Hey all,

If I intend to make changes to any of the 'preset' picture settings, for example if I make a change to the THX picture mode do I need to write down what the settings were from factory or is there a way to get it back to the original settings? A factory reset for just one picture setting per se?

I'm going to be taking delivery of my tv soon and I wanted to check to see if I should write things down before I start playing around smile.gif
You can always get back to defaults. In THX modes, you cannot change much. Just the contrast and top level stuff so it's not hard to remember what you changed on those.
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post #9729 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by fcb View Post

Indeed it does. Amazing that a receiver would have superior video processing to a VT50 Panasonic.
As I mentioned above, the VT60 is ok on it's own, but I still use the 3900 to upconvert all signals to
1080P before they are sent to the VT60.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Codeman00 View Post

I'll comment about the video processor. I consider myself tech savvy and I never have even thought about a video processing for HD. I have no idea what I'm missing and was really shocked to see it being discussed here by so many that it seems like it's a must. I don't see that you need to worry about video processing at all, just watch the TV with the standard HD hookups and enjoy it.



Fcb was commenting on 1080i and 720p sources and not on 1080p native content. Some of us feel that recent Panasonic Plasmas aren't up to par when it comes to overall video processing of less quality sources. The 50 series from last year (owned the ST50) were not very good and was the main reason that I upgraded to the VT60 (and its very much improved black levels wink.gif) Even though the VT60 is much better I still see a big difference running all of my OTA tv content through my Oppo 103D.

I'm not sure how lack of brightness issue as in your case plays a factor but I'll tell you that as a true football fanatic (I mean soccer and I'm calling it by its real name since the world cup is only a couple of months away biggrin.gif), A couple of recorded arsenal games on my Tivo Roamio look fantastic compared to when seeing those same games in "Source Direct" mode directly from the VT60. I see better detail and definition and less noise resulting in a cleaner output. Without the Oppo doing its thing the pic does look a little bit dim and dull at the same time. Mind you I can't definitely say for sure if brightness is affected by that much here but since the Oppo is utilizing its excellent reference VRS, Mediatek and Darbee components for upconverting everything looks much better. And this is all on a yet to be ISF calibrated display smile.gif
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post #9730 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by JPowers View Post

I read the article, and I'm aware that they screwed up. That's the whole point of the article. That still doesn't change the fact that they break in the plasmas for 100 hours before they calibrate, which you said they don't do. How exactly does that make you right? rolleyes.gif
Correct, the main point of calibration after 100 hours of use or more is so the Phosphorus ages. After this said time the Phosphorus is more stable............
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post #9731 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donat76 View Post

From his post...

"I'm also using some L-adapters (270 degree units, from monoprice)."

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041913&p_id=3850&seq=1&format=2

"WARNING: Since port alignment differs from one device to another, it is difficult to state which way this port saver will point on your particular device. For that reason, we offer two different angled models, one with a 90 degree bend, which angles toward the beveled side of the connector, and a 270 degree connector, which points in the opposite direction. Please look at the orientation of the HDMI port on your device to determine how it is aligned and whether this port saver will point your cable in the direction you desire."

Is he using two of these savers on each HDMI connection? I don't like how my one cable hangs coming from the receiver, so I'd like to run it back across the tv like that.
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post #9732 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 02:34 PM
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Is he using two of these savers on each HDMI connection? .
Yes. That's what it takes to make a "U" turn. wink.gif
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post #9733 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 02:49 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Does anybody know the best settings for the ps3 movie/blueray?
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post #9734 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by turbe View Post

try this: https://support.netflix.com/en/node/8550

Thanks man.

It's the contra code tongue.gif
Quote:
follow the steps below.
Launch the Netflix app.
Using the arrows on your remote, enter the following sequence:
Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, Up, Up, Up, Up
Select Deactivate.
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post #9735 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by hobaoe View Post

Thanks for the reply. Does anybody know the best settings for the ps3 movie/blueray?

Here you go

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post #9736 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ely94 View Post

Thanks man.

It's the contra code tongue.gif

comes in handy wink.gif

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post #9737 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JPowers View Post

As far as I'm concerned, if anyone opens up the box before I do, that TV is used. I've never heard of that before, and I had 2 deliveries from CEVA.

Over the past 5 years I've bought 5 plasmas from BestBuy. Each and every time, the BestBuy delivery guys had opened the box at the warehouse to visually check the condition of the screen because they are responsible for the cost if it gets broken during their delivery. Each and every set had no time or less than 3 hours (that's reasonable) on it when I checked. This was the BestBuy delivery system not CEVA.

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post #9738 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 03:34 PM
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What are those toroids for? I noticed the ones I got from mono price had them, but some others don't.
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post #9739 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by fkenyon View Post

What are those toroids for? I noticed the ones I got from mono price had them, but some others don't.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead
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post #9740 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynerd View Post

Hey all,

If I intend to make changes to any of the 'preset' picture settings, for example if I make a change to the THX picture mode do I need to write down what the settings were from factory or is there a way to get it back to the original settings? A factory reset for just one picture setting per se?

I'm going to be taking delivery of my tv soon and I wanted to check to see if I should write things down before I start playing around smile.gif

I have been told that when you "reset back to factory defaults," its just of that one Picture Mode you're in.

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post #9741 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Over the past 5 years I've bought 5 plasmas from BestBuy. Each and every time, the BestBuy delivery guys had opened the box at the warehouse to visually check the condition of the screen because they are responsible for the cost if it gets broken during their delivery. Each and every set had no time or less than 3 hours (that's reasonable) on it when I checked. This was the BestBuy delivery system not CEVA.

So, you're telling me they removed the protective cover inside the box and pulled it out of the Styrofoam? I wouldn't be comfortable with that. I'm expecting a delivery this week, so we'll see if I have the same experience. This will be my first plasma delivery. What I don't understand is why there was any time at all on the TV you had delivered. Why were they using your TV for 3 hours? They absolutely shouldn't plug it in. That's the definition of a used/open box item.
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post #9742 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobaoe View Post

Thanks for the reply. Does anybody know the best settings for the ps3 movie/blueray?

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

Here you go

I checked these PS3 settings to see if they matched mine.

The link shows the following:

BD/DVD Audio Output Format (HDMI): Bitstream Linear PCM
BD/DVD Audio Output Format (Optical Digital): Bitstream

On my PS3 the options for BD/DVD Audio Output Format (HDMI) are Bitstream or Linear, not Bitstream Linear PCM. Which should be used Bitstream or Linear?

For BD/DVD Audio Output Format (Optical Digital) I see Bitstream (Mix) and Bitstream (Direct). Which one should be selected?
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post #9743 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPowers View Post

So, you're telling me they removed the protective cover inside the box and pulled it out of the Styrofoam? I wouldn't be comfortable with that. I'm expecting a delivery this week, so we'll see if I have the same experience. This will be my first plasma delivery. What I don't understand is why there was any time at all on the TV you had delivered. Why were they using your TV for 3 hours? They absolutely shouldn't plug it in. That's the definition of a used/open box item.

You're getting a little too extreme about this.

There is nothing wrong with them opening the box to make sure the set is not damaged before delivery or even plugging it to make sure it works. Wouldn't you want them to so that your time wouldn't have to be wasted with a second delivery if they didn't not open the box until it was initially delivered (only to discover it was damaged)?

Believe it or not, your set has gone through QC at the factory to ensure it's working which would largely explain the less than 3 hours of use. Let me guess: that means Panasonic is selling you a used TV in your mind?

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post #9744 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p3Orion View Post


I checked these PS3 settings to see if they matched mine.

The link shows the following:

BD/DVD Audio Output Format (HDMI): Bitstream Linear PCM
BD/DVD Audio Output Format (Optical Digital): Bitstream

On my PS3 the options for BD/DVD Audio Output Format (HDMI) are Bitstream or Linear, not Bitstream Linear PCM. Which should be used Bitstream or Linear?

For BD/DVD Audio Output Format (Optical Digital) I see Bitstream (Mix) and Bitstream (Direct). Which one should be selected?

Can your receiver decode all the latest codecs?

The older PS3 couldn't do bitstream if I remember, starting with the slim they could (perhaps a f/w update changed that for the older ones as well - I sold my fatty long before).

It really doesn't matter (though not everyone agrees) but I do bitstream (HDMI) so I can see the pretty Dolby True HD and DTS-HD MA lights on my 805 (which is doing the decoding).

Are you even using optical digital? If not, ignore that setting

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post #9745 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPowers View Post

So, you're telling me they removed the protective cover inside the box and pulled it out of the Styrofoam? I wouldn't be comfortable with that. I'm expecting a delivery this week, so we'll see if I have the same experience. This will be my first plasma delivery. What I don't understand is why there was any time at all on the TV you had delivered. Why were they using your TV for 3 hours? They absolutely shouldn't plug it in. That's the definition of a used/open box item.


No! That is not what I said. They opened the box and looked inside for indications of damage -- visually.

During manufacture some units are pulled off the line and turned on as part of their QA. It is standard operating procedure.

Larry
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post #9746 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPowers View Post

So, you're telling me they removed the protective cover inside the box and pulled it out of the Styrofoam? I wouldn't be comfortable with that. I'm expecting a delivery this week, so we'll see if I have the same experience. This will be my first plasma delivery. What I don't understand is why there was any time at all on the TV you had delivered. Why were they using your TV for 3 hours? They absolutely shouldn't plug it in. That's the definition of a used/open box item.

You're getting a little too extreme about this.

There is nothing wrong with them opening the box to make sure the set is not damaged before delivery or even plugging it to make sure it works. Wouldn't you want them to so that your time wouldn't have to be wasted with a second delivery if they didn't not open the box until it was initially delivered (only to discover it was damaged)?

Believe it or not, your set has gone through QC at the factory to ensure it's working which would largely explain the less than 3 hours of use. Let me guess: that means Panasonic is selling you a used TV in your mind?

I wouldn't want them opening it either. I had my VT50 delivered from Best Buy and it had scuff marks on the front of the screen from the foam rubbing on it because the plastic wasn't placed back on correctly. So it's not "a little extreme" to expect them not to open it. I don't care what their reason is, I'm the one paying for it. If there is shipping damage, they can sort that out later, that isn't my problem.

There also shouldn't be any hours on the TV even when quality control tests it since this can be zeroed out.

As far as your last sentence... taking your argument to an absurd level to try make a point doesn't help. People have their reasons even if it isn't obvious to you.
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post #9747 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbe View Post

Can your receiver decode all the latest codecs?

The older PS3 couldn't do bitstream if I remember, starting with the slim they could (perhaps a f/w update changed that for the older ones as well - I sold my fatty long before).

It really doesn't matter (though not everyone agrees) but I do bitstream (HDMI) so I can see the pretty Dolby True HD and DTS-HD MA lights on my 805 (which is doing the decoding).

Are you even using optical digital? If not, ignore that setting

I have a PS3 slim, purchased Holiday 2009. I plug it directly into the VT60 via HDMI.
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post #9748 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 06:42 PM
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post #9749 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 06:47 PM
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Can someone please provide me with the Contrast setting for THX Cinema? I believe it's 60 but was playing with the contrast. Also, is THX Cinema available when using Netflix? I'm only able to use Custom, Cinema, Prof1, Prof2, and Vivid.
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post #9750 of 15632 Old 01-04-2014, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post

Can someone please provide me with the Contrast setting for THX Cinema? I believe it's 60 but was playing with the contrast. Also, is THX Cinema available when using Netflix? I'm only able to use Custom, Cinema, Prof1, Prof2, and Vivid.
60 is the default and you answered your other question with your post.
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