Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 346 - AVS Forum
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post #10351 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

You would if you'd followed the F8500 and Sharp Elite forums since their beginnings. ;-)

Some classic stuff. ;-)

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post #10352 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 07:39 PM
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Can anyone direct me to how to turn off the Viera screen saver for the VT60? I synced up the Viera Touchpad tonight and I've had a grey screen saver with the Viera logo come on screen twice while watching video my laptop through HDMI.
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post #10353 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Some classic stuff. ;-)


Now you all have got me interested but I doubt that I have the time to wade through a gabillion posts. If anyone feels that it would entertain me, please PM me with some hints to filter the posts. smile.gif

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post #10354 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Now you all have got me interested but I doubt that I have the time to wade through a gabillion posts. If anyone feels that it would entertain me, please PM me with some hints to filter the posts. smile.gif

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Ya, me2... But i think i know just wanna confirm..

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post #10355 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by sage11x View Post

Codeman00-- at the last Value Electronics shoot out the calibrators were able to get 35 foot lamberts out of the VT60, 30 out of the ZT60 and over 40 out of the Samsung F8500.

This is Zohn's comment after the Samsung took home the win from the panel for it's superior brightness while the Panasonic's won the vote from the assembled calibrators:

“But even their choice was only a slight preference. As DeWayne put it to me.... `To me and just for example, if the VT60 is a 10 the F8500 is a nine, as I don’t care about panel brightness above 30fL,’ ”

35ftL is plenty bright but only YOU can decide if it's bright enough. As an example: I only watch TV at night and control the light in my room so brightness isn't something I was concerned with. If I had to contend with a bright room I would not have bought the VT. I get why you want to make it work but I want to caution you that spending another 3-4 hundred dollars on a set you're not happy with right now isn't something I think even a pro calibrator here would advise you to do. I think you're forcing it and my recommendation remains to trade it in for something different.
Thank you for this advice. I have a lot to think about. Too bad the F8500 is about a $1200 price difference. And an awful looking stand. $300-$400 difference is close to a no brainer.
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post #10356 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by frankefrum View Post

I have searched all over this thread and the internet in general...someone please take a moment and help me out!!!

I own a Kuro 5020. I am relatively happy with this tv. I have had it for a few years. Has anyone on this forum upgraded to the 55VT60 from the Kuro 5020? What are your thoughts? There are 2-3 reasons I consider upgrading to the VT60...

1. It is a newer tv and with plasmas going extinct, it might be time to get the last awesome plasma available since we all know they beat LED and LCD's and OLED is a long ways off it seems...never know when the old Kuro is going to up and die on me.

2. I do a lot of gaming and from what I can tell the input lag would be about twice as fast...

3. This one is very important...I have heard, but have yet to get definitive proof...but I hear the motion, especially when it comes to panning the screen left to right very fast (think looking around in a first person shooter) is a lot less blurry on the VT60...anyone know if this true, or true but somewhat exaggerated?? I used to game on the XBR960 and gaming was dang close to perfect on that tv and motion was as good as it gets...I always noticed a slight bit of tolerable blurriness in the way the Kuro deals with motion compared to a CRT, but I have lived with it on account of the size and resolution...

So, those are my three thoughts...I need someone to either talk me into buying a VT60 because it truly offers a significant leap in one or all of those areas, or talk me out of it because it is not a big leap and I have a perfectly good tv as it is...biggrin.gif

I have and have posted a lot about the VT and what does better than my 5020 besides add real estate. Run to the neariest store you can find one and buy it. Spend the money on a calibration and live happily ever after or until OLED is close to affordable and stable. This set properly calibrated is a force to reckon with. Truly outstanding picture and it demonstrates very well all the reasons plasma is so much better that LED. I have little doubt the gimmicks rolled out at CES will do little to change that stance. I say gimmicks because no one could test or spend time with some of the new Dolby enhanced, ZT blacks from the Panny LED. I suspect most will not be as spectacular when tested under relief conditions.

Thanks in advance!
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post #10357 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sillysally View Post

How D-Nice always explain the use of slides to me, was to accelerate the break-in time so you could do a proper calibration on your new display. And yes I am on the same page as you about the use of break-in slides.

Here is a bit of trivia. Back in the days of the Kuro I know of at-least one pro calibrator that used D-Nice's posted settings as a starting point for his calibrations.

Shameless, last month I got the first season on Blu Ray liked it and now just have completed viewing all three seasons on Blu Ray.
My point is with these great season shows on Blu Ray like Shameless, Rome, Magic City, Homeland, Broadwalk Empire, Deadwood, Game of Thrones, Sopranos, Davinci'e Demons, Spertacus and the list goes on and on. What a great way to break-in a display or to keep your displays picture uniformed. wink.gif

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post #10358 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by XBR11 View Post

Hey Codeman00, sorry you are so unhappy. I have no idea of what defines a bright, or a moderate, or a dim room. We usually have on two lamps on in our family/tv room. And there is light from curtained windows. For the first few weeks, I also thought the tv was not as bright. It helped to move the old Panasonic plasma out of the same room (so I couldn't compare them side by side). The other day I had the occasion to look at the settings on Cinema (as I had decided to reset Cinema and to re-enter the CNET settings) and was surprised to find CATS was ON! I am certain I had set it to OFF. So I switched back to OFF (and of course the picture got noticeably brighter). I have even since set Gamma at 2.4 because I think it makes the picture punchier. Now when I go back my old 'good' Panasonic I think the picture may be too bright.

True, the picture is not as bright as I was used to, but I think maybe I have been giving too much importance to brightness. For me now days, brighter is not the same thing as better.
I'm glad things are getting better for you! And very interesting stuff. I still wonder if I never had heard about the dim panel of the VT60, if I would have noticed. But I'll never know. I do limo that if the CNET settings never existed, this TV would have most likely been sent back already.

Anyway, I'll make sure to check the CATS but I'm sure it's OFF. I'll try to go to gamma 2.4 but I have a feeling it will knock the colors off too much. I'll report back.
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post #10359 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

You have many allies, all more or less equally uninformed.

The increase in additive white along black edges is very small in its early stages but it is there, and it starts at 1.

Here's your guru, you know, the guy who started the 2013 Panasonic Issues thread, and the 2012, and the -- I think it goes back to 2008 or so. D-Nice is one of the very few people who actually has a little Panasonic engineering insider information. Here are his settings for the 2013 ST60. He never completed his reserved posts for other models because he may finally have tired of all the speculative, non knowledgeable posts in his own thread...

So... a guy that I don't know recommends a sharpness setting of zero on a TV that I don't own?

Brilliant ****ing argument. I-- I just don't know what I was thinking. Please accept my apologies for being so uninformed.

I'm going to go set all my sets to zero now and right after I'm going to call Panasonic and tell them what a bunch of twats they are for including a sharpness control.

I'm going to go pass out now. Happy Birthday to me!! Thank go for spell check.
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post #10360 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dfedders View Post

No. It only works for apps on the TV, like Netflix. The optical out and HDMI ARC only send 2 channels. I was asking about it a while back. It sucks.

Here is an article talking about TVs and the HDMI ARC:

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57615451-221/20-tvs-tested-which-sets-can-pass-surround-sound-to-a-sound-bar/

I'm really confused about this. I thought the whole point of ARC was not just to have one less cable, but to get around the 2.1 limitation of using the optical output. I still haven't hooked up my VT60, but I still have a Samsung UN60F7050 that's outputting the ARC signal to an HDMI switch. How is it that I'm getting 5.1 audio through my speakers? I'm using a coaxial input connected to an antenna, so could that be why? Depending on the channel I'm watching, it will either say Dolby Digital or Pro Logic on my receiver. When watching football earlier, I could hear the crowd behind me. According to the article above, that shouldn't be possible on a Samsung.
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post #10361 of 14809 Old 01-12-2014, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Codeman00 View Post

That's the only thing I can think of too is the overhang and some kind of a safety issue. Weight it weight...no matter how big the TV is or what type, 165 lbs is 165 lbs. You should be fine unless you have rowdy kids that like to run around the TV stand.

I agree. That's what I had originally thought when I was planning on buying either a 60" or 65", but the person I spoke to had me worried. We're way below the weight limit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLF54927 View Post

Yeah, that's my thought as well. I'd rather be a smidge over spec in size than anywhere near spec in weight.

Plus, it seems their aren't any stands out there that my fiancé likes that are under the cost of a 60VT.

For the time being, this should work fine.

Hopefully.

Since we're both using a center channel on the top shelf, that makes it even more top heavy, because the TV has to be higher. My CC is 8" high and there's about a 2" gap on top of that. I will say this is definitely the sturdiest floating pedestal stand I've seen with what seems like the widest base. I've seen more narrow stands that still have the 60" limit, so maybe 65" isn't so bad after all. If you don't mind, I'd appreciate it if you could let me know how it works out for you.
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post #10362 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by sage11x View Post


So... a guy that I don't know recommends a sharpness setting of zero on a TV that I don't own?

Brilliant ****ing argument. I-- I just don't know what I was thinking. Please accept my apologies for being so uninformed.

I'm going to go set all my sets to zero now and right after I'm going to call Panasonic and tell them what a bunch of twats they are for including a sharpness control.

I'm going to go pass out now. Happy Birthday to me!! Thank go for spell check.
You are just the one the sharpness control, which had a purpose with CRT direct view and projection systems, has been preserved for. All it can possibly add to a flat panel TV is distortion A flat panel is in focus be definition. By using the "sharpness" control you're just messing with the edges of images on your screen.

Many times zero means that sharpness is turned off. Other times there will be a different setting to turn "sharpness" off.
.
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post #10363 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPowers View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfedders View Post

No. It only works for apps on the TV, like Netflix. The optical out and HDMI ARC only send 2 channels. I was asking about it a while back. It sucks.

Here is an article talking about TVs and the HDMI ARC:

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57615451-221/20-tvs-tested-which-sets-can-pass-surround-sound-to-a-sound-bar/

I'm really confused about this. I thought the whole point of ARC was not just to have one less cable, but to get around the 2.1 limitation of using the optical output. I still haven't hooked up my VT60, but I still have a Samsung UN60F7050 that's outputting the ARC signal to an HDMI switch. How is it that I'm getting 5.1 audio through my speakers? I'm using a coaxial input connected to an antenna, so could that be why? Depending on the channel I'm watching, it will either say Dolby Digital or Pro Logic on my receiver. When watching football earlier, I could hear the crowd behind me. According to the article above, that shouldn't be possible on a Samsung.
The 2.0 limitation is a copyright issue and no manufacture is allowed to design an escape hatch.

ARC will pass surround sound for all internal sources and built in applications. It will not pass surround sound from external sources connected with HDMI or other inputs.

Your coax input from your antenna is internal to your TV because the signal is going through the TV's tuner.
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post #10364 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Well, this doesn't look like terrible greyscale and color tracking to me in high panel.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1474480/official-zt60-owners-thread/5640#post_24129650

You are right that is pretty darn good, oops there goes alot of the F8500 advantage smile.gif
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post #10365 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Some classic stuff. ;-)


Now you all have got me interested but I doubt that I have the time to wade through a gabillion posts. If anyone feels that it would entertain me, please PM me with some hints to filter the posts. smile.gif

Larry

DavidHir knows who I'm talking about and why. He's not on this thread and I won't be revealing his name. If you'd seen the plethora of "if I can't see it" posts you'd understand why many eyes were rolling....

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post #10366 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 05:39 AM
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I know who it is also Buzz wink.gif

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post #10367 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPowers View Post

I'm really confused about this. I thought the whole point of ARC was not just to have one less cable, but to get around the 2.1 limitation of using the optical output. I still haven't hooked up my VT60, but I still have a Samsung UN60F7050 that's outputting the ARC signal to an HDMI switch. How is it that I'm getting 5.1 audio through my speakers? I'm using a coaxial input connected to an antenna, so could that be why? Depending on the channel I'm watching, it will either say Dolby Digital or Pro Logic on my receiver. When watching football earlier, I could hear the crowd behind me. According to the article above, that shouldn't be possible on a Samsung.

Correct me if I'm wrong but if your receiver is connected to the source, i.e. cablebox or blu-ray, the receiver is processing audio (DD or DTS) from the source and passing the video to the display. I believe the only way the ARC signal goes from the display to the receiver is if you have the display's source being an external HDTV antenna where the display does the signal processing and sends the audio to the receiver.

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post #10368 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

You are just the one the sharpness control, which had a purpose with CRT direct view and projection systems, has been preserved for. All it can possibly add to a flat panel TV is distortion A flat panel is in focus be definition. By using the "sharpness" control you're just messing with the edges of images on your screen.

Many times zero means that sharpness is turned off. Other times there will be a different setting to turn "sharpness" off.
.

...

Exploding-head.gif
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post #10369 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal1981 View Post

Eric. were able to accurately interpret this section of the findings:

W/B Detail Adjust. (2D)
Mid High
Red –7 10
Green –1 4
Blue 14 –3

W/B Detail Adjust. (32D)
Mid High
Red –15 11
Green 0 0
Blue –6 –1

Is that mid panel brightness vs High and are the top RGB settings the high ones and the bottom ones the lows for the two panel levels?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

They can mean only one thing:

W/B Detail Adjust. (2D)
W/B High R +10
W/B High G +4
W/B High B -3
W/B Low -7
W/B Low -1
W/B Low +14


Larry
So I have been running Sound and Visions calibration settings the last few days and have been extremely happy with them. Colors are very saturated, skin tones look really good and no issues with brightness levels. There was a slight red push I was seeing but bringing the W/B High R of +10 to a +5 looked to fix that right up.
I think this is the best I have seen the TV so far.

If anyone one with equipment can run some tests on these settings that would be great. Pretty curious how it stacks up to other settings that were tested by you guys.
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post #10370 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 06:30 AM
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On Saturday, I exchanged a 55VT60 (June 2013 build) for a 60VT60 (October 2013 build) and I noticed that the 60VT60 had a much more colorful, clearer and brighter picture and I'm curious why? Curious whether it has to do with components, newer build, larger screen. etc.

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post #10371 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post


Many times zero means that sharpness is turned off. Other times there will be a different setting to turn "sharpness" off.
.

The default setting?

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post #10372 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post



So I have been running Sound and Visions calibration settings the last few days and have been extremely happy with them. Colors are very saturated, skin tones look really good and no issues with brightness levels. There was a slight red push I was seeing but bringing the W/B High R of +10 to a +5 looked to fix that right up.
I think this is the best I have seen the TV so far.

If anyone one with equipment can run some tests on these settings that would be great. Pretty curious how it stacks up to other settings that were tested by you guys.

I've tried the S&V, Cnet and D-Nice settings and they all have their strengths.. D-Nice's Day settings are very good, even without the specific slide prep, and the basic values can be tweaked to suit your own taste. His Night settings are a bit too sedate for me. The Cnet settings are also very good and require very little tweaking. Same with the S&V settings. The nice thing about the VT60 is that the two Professional modes allow you to try multiple Video sets and switch between them. Right now D-Nice Day is on Pro 1, S&V on Pro 2 and Cnet on Cinema so they can be compared instantly. One change that I did make was to take the Gamma from 2.4 to 2.2. On my ST30, I went with 2.0 and it opened up the overall brightness. On the VT60, I've found that Gamma 2.2 pretty much does the same thing (no brickbats please. It's just a personal preference). I also used High panel brightness on the ST30 and that increased the overall "pop". Initially I found that the VT60's High PB almost looked baked to me but Chad B's using it on some ZT60s and getting pretty good results has intrigued me. I've played around with High briefly and found that decreasing contrast and playing with brightness can yield a pretty lively image. One question that I have is whether using the High PB can result in any negative issues for the panel such as increased IR, color blobs, yellowing etc. My ST30 had so much vague shadowy crud on the screen that I didn't care but I wouldn't want to put the VT60s incredible black levels or screen uniformity at risk.
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post #10373 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 08:36 AM
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I've tried the S&V, Cnet and D-Nice settings and they all have their strengths.. D-Nice's Day settings are very good, even without the specific slide prep, and the basic values can be tweaked to suit your own taste. His Night settings are a bit too sedate for me. The Cnet settings are also very good and require very little tweaking. Same with the S&V settings. The nice thing about the VT60 is that the two Professional modes allow you to try multiple Video sets and switch between them. Right now D-Nice Day is on Pro 1, S&V on Pro 2 and Cnet on Cinema so they can be compared instantly. One change that I did make was to take the Gamma from 2.4 to 2.2. On my ST30, I went with 2.0 and it opened up the overall brightness. On the VT60, I've found that Gamma 2.2 pretty much does the same thing (no brickbats please. It's just a personal preference). I also used High panel brightness on the ST30 and that increased the overall "pop". Initially I found that the VT60's High PB almost looked baked to me but Chad B's using it on some ZT60s and getting pretty good results has intrigued me. I've played around with High briefly and found that decreasing contrast and playing with brightness can yield a pretty lively image. One question that I have is whether using the High PB can result in any negative issues for the panel such as increased IR, color blobs, yellowing etc. My ST30 had so much vague shadowy crud on the screen that I didn't care but I wouldn't want to put the VT60s incredible black levels or screen uniformity at risk.
I do also have Cnet's setting plugged in and they look pretty decent. I do find that S&V has more color saturation and pop compared to Cnet. That can be because Cnet uses Gamma of 2.2 which tend to brighten a picture up but also seems to wash out the colors a little. I also tried Dnice's nightime setting and did not like it at all. It seemed dark and drabby and did not seem to have the pop as other settings have had. Much prefer THX Cinema over Dnice's night setting. I haven't tried his daytime settings as brightness has nit been issue with me but maybe I will punch them in just to have a look at it.

As far as what cause IR and what doesn't. I do not believe anyone really knows. At one point I had my contrast on 50 and I got IR quicker and more noticable then when I had it on 60 running the same thing. So who the heck knows. lol...I think the best way to see how it reacts is run something with your hight settings for a half hour or so that has some sort of static logo. See how it does. Then the next day run the same thing at lower settings and see how it does. I think people have just come to the assumption that contrast and brightness give you IR but I am not so sure if this has actually been proven. Even the THX daytime setting runs contrast at 100. Are people just going to get instant IR and Burn-in if they run a setting that was programmed by THX?
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post #10374 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal1981 View Post

I've tried the S&V, Cnet and D-Nice settings and they all have their strengths.. D-Nice's Day settings are very good, even without the specific slide prep, and the basic values can be tweaked to suit your own taste. His Night settings are a bit too sedate for me. The Cnet settings are also very good and require very little tweaking. Same with the S&V settings. The nice thing about the VT60 is that the two Professional modes allow you to try multiple Video sets and switch between them. Right now D-Nice Day is on Pro 1, S&V on Pro 2 and Cnet on Cinema so they can be compared instantly. One change that I did make was to take the Gamma from 2.4 to 2.2. On my ST30, I went with 2.0 and it opened up the overall brightness. On the VT60, I've found that Gamma 2.2 pretty much does the same thing (no brickbats please. It's just a personal preference). I also used High panel brightness on the ST30 and that increased the overall "pop". Initially I found that the VT60's High PB almost looked baked to me but Chad B's using it on some ZT60s and getting pretty good results has intrigued me. I've played around with High briefly and found that decreasing contrast and playing with brightness can yield a pretty lively image. One question that I have is whether using the High PB can result in any negative issues for the panel such as increased IR, color blobs, yellowing etc. My ST30 had so much vague shadowy crud on the screen that I didn't care but I wouldn't want to put the VT60s incredible black levels or screen uniformity at risk.

Can you provide a link to D-Nice's Day settings? Thank you.

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post #10375 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 10:08 AM
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I posted the following over in the Darblet forum. Since I see many here use that piece of equipment I would appreciate your feedback. Sorry for the OT.


<<" Information please before purchasing the Darblet 5000; I watch 95% ripped DVD's, ripped BluRay's and TV torrents. No cable/FIOS/Sat

List of equipment:
Panny 65VT60
Yamaha RX-V675
HTPC (XBMC) HDMI out

Will I see any benefit from this unit? HTPC people please chime in. " >>

Thanks.

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post #10376 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal1981 View Post

Can you provide a link to D-Nice's Day settings? Thank you.



I'd help you out, Scott. I know where they are, all the 2013 upper echelons on one page. But, every one of them, Day mode, Night mode, and 3d mode all have Sharpness set at zero so obviously he wouldn't have a clue what he was talking about. So sorry.


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The correct Panasonic Sharpness setting is 0. Increasing Sharpness sharpens nothing. It adds white alongside black and it covers up the actual intended content and degrades picture quality. If you want to alleviate the soft look, get a Darblet.

Baloney.
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post #10377 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
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Can you provide a link to D-Nice's Day settings? Thank you.
Come on Buzzard, play nice. I actually think there is more to this topic then saying it is zero or nothing. Sound & Vision, Cnet and Plasma buying guide all have the sharpness raised above zero on the VT60. Chad B also ran sharpness patterns with someone's calibration here and saw benefits at certain times with raised sharpness. All these cats can't be wrong, can they?


http://www.calibrationforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=939
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post #10378 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

Can you provide a link to D-Nice's Day settings? Thank you.
Come on Buzzard, play nice. I actually think there is more to this topic then saying it is zero or nothing. Sound & Vision, Cnet and Plasma buying guide all have the sharpness raised above zero on the VT60. Chad B also ran sharpness patterns with someone's calibration here and saw benefits at certain times with raised sharpness. All these cats can't be wrong, can they?


http://www.calibrationforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=939

Yes it's possible. I'm reasonably sure that D-Nice has direct links to Panasonic engineering.

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post #10379 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

Come on Buzzard, play nice. I actually think there is more to this topic then saying it is zero or nothing. Sound & Vision, Cnet and Plasma buying guide all have the sharpness raised above zero on the VT60. Chad B also ran sharpness patterns with someone's calibration here and saw benefits at certain times with raised sharpness. All these cats can't be wrong, can they?


http://www.calibrationforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=939
Sharpness really 0-100....people watched the Shootout right? well with all the people of import ants there.Far as reps engineers and 3 top calibrators so the feedback to samsung,panny,lg etc..And i personally had 2 of the 3 calibrators like Kevin,D-nice here to do my vt50 and vt60 both put Sharpness at 0 So there is a reason for that..Now As a consumer with no cal experiance to your eye if it works go for it change it ..my 2 cents smile.gif

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post #10380 of 14809 Old 01-13-2014, 11:06 AM
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I have a fairly simple question about brightness. When viewing the "shootout" video from VE, the calibrators said that they could only get the VT to produce 35FL and the ZT to produce 30FL after calibration while all the other displays hit 40FL without a problem. Then I see a review in the link below that states the max brightness after calibration was 43.7FL. A difference of almost 10FL is pretty large and would be noticeable for daytime viewing.

Why is one calibrator able to get more FL out of the set when compared to others? In both the shootout video and in the review below, it is stated that both sets used mid panel brightness. In the review below, it states that pro 1 "ISF day" was used but I am unsure of what was used in the shootout video.

Does custom, pro 1 "isf day", and pro 2" isf night" offer varying levels of brightness while still achieving the exact same accuracy and black levels? Or does pro 1 "isf day" trade off some accuracy and higher black levels for more light out?



http://www.avsforum.com/products/panasonic-tc-p60vt60-60-inch-3d-smart-plasma-hdtv/reviews/4061

Panasonic TC-P60VT60 ISF Day.pdf Before max fL: 28.4 / After max fL: 43.7
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