Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 376 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11251 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatchersDad View Post

Quick question, with this weather on the east coast ALL of the local channels have HUGE borders across the hole bottom of the screen with HUGE logos all over the place while they run scrolling school closings etc. Told the wife she couldn't watch those shows the new VT unless she kept changing the channel every now and again. This morning she told me she would rather have a smaller TV or any TV she didn't have to worry about this "crap" on. Yesterday there was some slight IR noticeable, ran the screen wipe and now it's gone.

Suggestions on what picture settings to put it on for her (a "Momma Setting" ....she can't tell the difference anyway and could care less) to help reduce chances of IR/Burn in? For now I've just put it on Standard, with most everything ON, including Pixel Orbiter, and reduced Sharpness to zero.

My Dish DVR has a FORMAT button which scrolls through stretch and Zoom modes, I usually set that to Zoom which in many cases gets the logo and scrolling bars off the viewable screen. GF love HGTV and can watch it for hours on end, so I have her trained to zoom it in so the HGTV logo is not on the screen, works great.

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post #11252 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 09:16 AM
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Its funny how my wife is spoiled now too. She's asking why peoples faces look messed up on other relatives tv's and why things look gray. I just keep pointing back to the calibration that Dnice did. She's onboard for always getting our sets calibrated now. Complete 180 from her initial impression of the calibration idea lol
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post #11253 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mo949 View Post

Its funny how my wife is spoiled now too. She's asking why peoples faces look messed up on other relatives tv's and why things look gray. I just keep pointing back to the calibration that Dnice did. She's onboard for always getting our sets calibrated now. Complete 180 from her initial impression of the calibration idea lol

My girlfriend notices that too. She has my previous calibrated ST30 and between that and my VT60, she always picks up on how jacked up other relatives' LEDs displays look (blown out contrast, way over saturated color, soap opera effect settings, Vivid mode like, etc.).

This is what I keep telling people thinking about a cal - once you get it done and get used to it, there is no going back. smile.gif
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post #11254 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatchersDad View Post

Quick question, with this weather on the east coast ALL of the local channels have HUGE borders across the hole bottom of the screen with HUGE logos all over the place while they run scrolling school closings etc. Told the wife she couldn't watch those shows the new VT unless she kept changing the channel every now and again. This morning she told me she would rather have a smaller TV or any TV she didn't have to worry about this "crap" on. Yesterday there was some slight IR noticeable, ran the screen wipe and now it's gone.

Suggestions on what picture settings to put it on for her (a "Momma Setting" ....she can't tell the difference anyway and could care less) to help reduce chances of IR/Burn in? For now I've just put it on Standard, with most everything ON, including Pixel Orbiter, and reduced Sharpness to zero.

This is what i do to prevent my GF from getting IR. Use the zoom format, go into the menu, I think it's labeled screen settings, there's a zoom adjustment in there. You can increase/decrease the zoom and move it left to right. Set it to where it cuts off the ticker and channel logos of the channels she watches the most. Also, keep contrast around 60.
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post #11255 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

Yeah, I get all that. I was just saying for people they do not get a calibration using someone else's settings might actually look better then using the default settings but people don't like to share because each panel is different which means there is no advantage to using THX mode as it was not calibrated for your particular panel.

Am I making sense? It all makes sense in my head what I am trying to say. lol

Someone posted measurements he did for his VT out of the box in THX vs D-Nice settings vs others. If I recall, they were all relatively close. You really just have to go by what looks best to you at that point.

Now if only we could get them onboard with 4 subs and extra speakers for wides and rears then it'd be perfect biggrin.gif
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post #11256 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by onepanda View Post

I received my 65VT60 from Amazon and the screen had cracks in several places mad.gif
Any suggestions?

Send it back? Cry?
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post #11257 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by onepanda View Post

I received my 65VT60 from Amazon and the screen had cracks in several places mad.gif
Any suggestions?

There seems to be more reports of this lately - but maybe just because the remainders are selling fast so more issues to be heard.

Not many options left. You could probably find another one elsewhere, but at higher price.


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post #11258 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by onepanda View Post

I received my 65VT60 from Amazon and the screen had cracks in several places mad.gif
Any suggestions?
See is Amazon will give you a deal on the F8500.
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post #11259 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:20 AM
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I would be a bit wary on the F8500 right now as some people have measured significantly higher blacks than where the display was at initially. Not sure if this was a firmware screw-up or something else going.


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post #11260 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatchersDad View Post

Quick question, with this weather on the east coast ALL of the local channels have HUGE borders across the hole bottom of the screen with HUGE logos all over the place while they run scrolling school closings etc. Told the wife she couldn't watch those shows the new VT unless she kept changing the channel every now and again. This morning she told me she would rather have a smaller TV or any TV she didn't have to worry about this "crap" on. Yesterday there was some slight IR noticeable, ran the screen wipe and now it's gone.

Suggestions on what picture settings to put it on for her (a "Momma Setting" ....she can't tell the difference anyway and could care less) to help reduce chances of IR/Burn in? For now I've just put it on Standard, with most everything ON, including Pixel Orbiter, and reduced Sharpness to zero.

there's another type of zoom that works well for logos but without chopping off lots of the picture. The HD sizes 1 and 2 - one is overscan and the other is full screen. If you periodically switch between these two modes you can alleviate a lot of logo IR since it shifts the logos by a considerable amount on the screen without butchering your content. I just switch mine every few weeks. I used to have a logo IR'd in pretty well, but after a few months of this its no longer there and I can't make anything out.
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post #11261 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatchersDad View Post

Quick question, with this weather on the east coast ALL of the local channels have HUGE borders across the hole bottom of the screen with HUGE logos all over the place while they run scrolling school closings etc. Told the wife she couldn't watch those shows the new VT unless she kept changing the channel every now and again. This morning she told me she would rather have a smaller TV or any TV she didn't have to worry about this "crap" on. Yesterday there was some slight IR noticeable, ran the screen wipe and now it's gone.

Suggestions on what picture settings to put it on for her (a "Momma Setting" ....she can't tell the difference anyway and could care less) to help reduce chances of IR/Burn in? For now I've just put it on Standard, with most everything ON, including Pixel Orbiter, and reduced Sharpness to zero.

Lol! No suggestions but this is the exact reason my last purchase for a living room tv was an LCD.

Honestly, all this fervor over IR is interesting to me a since rarely taken any precautions and have yet to see much persistent IR with any of my previous panasonics. The only time I did was when a DVD menu had been left on the screen for who knows how long-- the inactivity function turned my panasonic off, thank god, or it could've been worse. After that I decided that plasma was no longer suitable for 'general use' and switched to a cheap LCD in the living room.

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post #11262 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

The thing is, whatever settings you use or even sticking with THX out of the box, there will be substantial drift over time.

Because of the substantial drift over time, how often should a display be calibrated...every year, every other year?

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post #11263 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

I would be a bit wary on the F8500 right now as some people have measured significantly higher blacks than where the display was at initially. Not sure if this was a firmware screw-up or something else going.
That's interesting. I would still probably take it over other options out there right now.

How bad are they measuring and is it consistent with everyone that took an update? If it is, that is at least fixable.
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post #11264 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mbroadus View Post

Because of the substantial drift over time, how often should a display be calibrated...every year, every other year?

Depends on usage, display, how much you notice things and how much they bother you if you start to notice drifting.

Some people prefer every six months or so, others once per year, and some even go longer than that.

Phosphor displays do tend to drift a bit faster than LED from what I hear.


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post #11265 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

That's interesting. I would still probably take it over other options out there right now.

How bad are they measuring and is it consistent with everyone that took an update? If it is, that is at least fixable.

It seems to be happening across the board on this year's Samsungs. One guy measured his 51F5300 and the MLL doubled from the time he got it. Another guy mentioned something similar. Chad measured some F8500s and they were up quite a bit, don't know of the exact numbers.


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post #11266 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:54 AM
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Send it back? Cry?

Looks like I will be sending it back since Amazon has 0 in stock and cannot send me a replacement. Though, does anyone know if a cracked screen would be covered under Panasonic's warranty?
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post #11267 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:55 AM
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Scale of 1-10 how difficult is it to do your own calibration? ControlCal offers software and equipment in bundles that seem to cost about the same as one pro cal. Is a regular person more likely to make the display worse, or is it something that can be done with a reasonable amount of success right from the start?

With 3 plasmas in the house now it might be a worthwhile investment if it isn't too much trouble.
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post #11268 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

No, not really. What works for one display works for one display. If you feel like wasting your time, here they are....

MYVT60HDMI1001HoursCalibrationSummaryDetailed_AVS.pdf 457k .pdf file

MYVT60HDMI1001HoursAdvancedColorManagementReport_AVS.pdf 383k .pdf file

MYVT60HDMI1PRO1FullCalibration001Hours.xml 3k .xml file
What mode did you calibrate this in? Curious because of the contrast level of 88.
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post #11269 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by onepanda View Post

Looks like I will be sending it back since Amazon has 0 in stock and cannot send me a replacement. Though, does anyone know if a cracked screen would be covered under Panasonic's warranty?
No it won't. If it did they would make a lot of people with young kids breath easier. lol
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post #11270 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

No, not really. What works for one display works for one display. If you feel like wasting your time, here they are....

MYVT60HDMI1001HoursCalibrationSummaryDetailed_AVS.pdf 457k .pdf file

MYVT60HDMI1001HoursAdvancedColorManagementReport_AVS.pdf 383k .pdf file

MYVT60HDMI1PRO1FullCalibration001Hours.xml 3k .xml file PRO1FullCalibration001Hours.xml (3k. xml file)
What mode did you calibrate this in? Curious because of the contrast level of 88.

What does the Contrast setting have to do with the mode??????

88 is the point where further increases failed to increase display luminance output while being double checked to ensure the setting does not clip R, G, B, or W.

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post #11271 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:18 AM
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You didn't answer my question tongue.gif

For someone who is not going to pay for a calibration, what is the difference whether they use THX Cinema or someone eles's calibrated settings? How would THX Cinema be any more correct on out TV then someone else's settings?

This is an excellent line of questions Eric poses which continue to not really be addressed. I'm not a calibrator but logically it seems to me that the THX settings are based on some baseline standard. Someone's settings that have resulted from a calibration are based on their specific set n a specific set of conditions and are dependent on the calibrator's skill, etc. So, if for example under those conditions, a deficit of red is detected, than those calibrated settings contain compensation for that and will look overly red on someone's set that doesn't have that same red deficit. I think this explains why trying multiple peoples' settings is like chasing one's tail.
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post #11272 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:27 AM
 
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Regardless if you have the foam fix or not you are still going to hear noises. Not just fan noises I mean that's just inevitable because it's something that has to spin so it's gonna make a little noise. Also you don't watch your TV on mute so that really shouldn't be a huge concern. And buzzing is normal especially for right scenes on a plasma, but even if all that's silent you are atill going to here the TV especially if you have it on mute and are focusing on issues it may have. Well those aren't really issues per say becasue that how a TV works. Excessive noises is an issue not mild noises such as buzzing and fan noises hard to believe that some people here don't hear a single thing when the TV is on mute. My ps3 and Xbox are 10x louder anyway so I'm not concerned but my VT60 is also very quiet. The only times I hear "noise" and I use that term very carefully is wen running slides at the brightest contrat possible (100 which is a Dnice recommendations for slides) and when I have the volum below 10 I hear some buzzing but since I've owned a KURO for five years the buzz is a non issue to me. In reality most in here have sound systems that you definetely not watching low enough to hear anything. There's like 10 pages about noises...get over it wink.gif TVs make noise, my car makes noise, my shoes make noise it's a part of nature.

I'm sure I'll be scorned for this or maybe possibly respected since i have my fair share of stupid posts. But there is a "settings and issue" thread that will address all your concerns. Let's keep this thread on track by offering positive things for our TVs. Yes I finally understand how this is annoying
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post #11273 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

What does the Contrast setting have to do with the mode??????

88 is the point where further increases failed to increase display luminance output while being double checked to ensure the setting does not clip R, G, B, or W.
My question comes based off of what someone else with experience has said in regards to modes...So I was curious based on the below post what mode you used to calibrate your TV.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1467563/official-panasonic-vt60-vt65-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/10650#post_24217419
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post #11274 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

This is an excellent line of questions Eric poses which continue to not really be addressed. I'm not a calibrator but logically it seems to me that the THX settings are based on some baseline standard. Someone's settings that have resulted from a calibration are based on their specific set n a specific set of conditions and are dependent on the calibrator's skill, etc. So, if for example under those conditions, a deficit of red is detected, than those calibrated settings contain compensation for that and will look overly red on someone's set that doesn't have that same red deficit. I think this explains why trying multiple peoples' settings is like chasing one's tail.

Yes, exactly.


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post #11275 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:38 AM
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Not to hard to figure out why alot of the pro calibrators don't want to post on AVS anymore when they are treated with disrespect.
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post #11276 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:49 AM
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Finally got a chance to hook and bundle everything up. The set is an October build with no foam fix, if anyone cares. I can hear the fans!! Having owned a DLP before it doesn't bother me.

I guess I don't nitpick my sets because it is plenty bright and I haven't watched anything where I thought the set was too dim. The stupid red light is my only complaint thus far.

The Harmomy Smart and Antec lighting also work well in my setup.

Still much to play with...

2iue3op.jpg
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post #11277 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:50 AM
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this may or may not help a newb like myself. but
I have been gathering all of the pro calibrations for my tv that I can find. i am going to take the data points that are the same such as (Color Gamut: Rec.709 or Native) they most all set to 709. Then I set my TV to 709 once i have all of the base adjustments set I am going to adjust to what my eyes prefer or my woman's eye depending on how much she bitches. no reason to bust on any calibration settings posted here his tv is not your tv to many manufacturing and personal variables. and why on earth would i use bobs settings when bob prefers bit more blue than i do hell bob may be color blind and to dumb to use his calibration equipment.

SO start with a decent base adjustment and then move to what ever your eyes like the best.

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post #11278 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:52 AM
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Finally got a chance to hook and bundle everything up. The set is an October build with no foam fix, if anyone cares. I can hear the fans!! Having owned a DLP before it doesn't bother me.

I guess I don't nitpick my sets because it is plenty bright and I haven't watched anything where I thought the set was too dim. The stupid red light is my only complaint thus far.

The Harmomy Smart and Antec lighting also work well in my setup.

Still much to play with...

2iue3op.jpg

Looking good. smile.gif


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post #11279 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:53 AM
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Has anyone figured out at what point the letters change in status 4? Mine currently reads A 0087-00000.

BTW pic is outstanding, though I wanted to try the sound and Vision settings. I'm having trouble when I get to the Red high and mid settings. I'm showing no mid- just high and low. Is there a how to thread on this?
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post #11280 of 16517 Old 01-22-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmorage View Post

Scale of 1-10 how difficult is it to do your own calibration? ControlCal offers software and equipment in bundles that seem to cost about the same as one pro cal. Is a regular person more likely to make the display worse, or is it something that can be done with a reasonable amount of success right from the start?

With 3 plasmas in the house now it might be a worthwhile investment if it isn't too much trouble.

I would be interested in knowing this as well?

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