Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 463 - AVS Forum
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post #13861 of 15568 Old 04-04-2014, 05:45 AM
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I'm also in Eastern Canada and thought i got the last unit in Dec.
Congrats and enjoy !
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post #13862 of 15568 Old 04-04-2014, 07:32 AM
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I have the European 55VT60, and it is an awesome display!

There is however one little detail that annoys me some:

I have all my sources hooked up via HDMI to an AV-Receiver. From this there is a single HDMI cable going to the VT's HDMI2 input. The problem is whenever there is any input on this HDMI Input, the input signal on the DVB-C tuner is lost.

For example: I am watching a blu-ray which I then pause to watch the news on TV. When switching from HDMI2 to DVB-C there is no signal. Once I switch off the blu-ray (or set the AV-Receiver in a "non-transmitting" mode) the DVB-C signal comes back.
It must be some kind of signal interference internally in the VT :-(


Does anybody else have this problem?


To all posters: Been reading more or less every single post in this marathon thread. Thank you to everyone who took the time to share their wisdom about this fantastic set!
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post #13863 of 15568 Old 04-05-2014, 06:36 AM
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Off-topic posts, condescending language, attacks on other members and a lot of other nonsense removed.

Infractions have been issued and a number of members have been banned from further participation in this thread.

Yes, calibration talk should go in the calibration section.

Further off-topic posting will result in removal from the thread with no further notice, as I've warned rather frequently before.

Discuss the televisions and not each other. Use the report post button if there's a problem instead of bellyaching in post after post. Takes time to clean all of that up. Time I could be spending drinking beer.

Thanks.

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post #13864 of 15568 Old 04-05-2014, 07:54 PM
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Hi Everyone,
Quick question... tried searching so apologies if this has been asked before. Since buying the VT60, my TV displays static when my htpc's bios is on the screen. Once Windows is booting, everything displays just fine. Not a huge deal other than having to plug the computer into a monitor to access bios/ having to wait 20 secs when windows wasn't booted down properly :-). Let me know. Thanks all.
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post #13865 of 15568 Old 04-05-2014, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberstven View Post

Hi Everyone,
Quick question... tried searching so apologies if this has been asked before. Since buying the VT60, my TV displays static when my htpc's bios is on the screen. Once Windows is booting, everything displays just fine. Not a huge deal other than having to plug the computer into a monitor to access bios/ having to wait 20 secs when windows wasn't booted down properly :-). Let me know. Thanks all.

 

Black should be a uniform shade of black. It sounds to me like your brightness is set too high, just hit pause on the boot up sequence and reduce brightness until the static is gone, you might need a separate setting for htpc and everything else as computers use 0 to present black instead of 16.

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post #13866 of 15568 Old 04-05-2014, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikkojokinen View Post

Black should be a uniform shade of black. It sounds to me like your brightness is set too high, just hit pause on the boot up sequence and reduce brightness until the static is gone, you might need a separate setting for htpc and everything else as computers use 0 to present black instead of 16.

Thanks for the reply. Definately not the brightness...just a weird way the tv responds to the signal it receives from te bios. I had a samsung plasma hooked up to it before and it was never an issue. It actually looks more like white noise than anything else. Super weird.
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post #13867 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chere View Post

VT60 Remote and Panasonic Soundbar:


I just recently purchased a Panasonic Soundbar (SC-HTB170) with an hdmi input/ output to go with my Panasonic VT60. I currently have my Tivo roamio OTA dvr hooked to the back hdmi input of my Oppo 103D in order to utilize the excellent video processing capabilities of the Oppo for OTA tv content.

This is currently how I have everything set up with the new soundbar:


HDMI 1 output of the OPPO to the TV (HDMI Arc Input)

HDMI 2 output of the OPPO to the sound bar -- set Split A/V

TIVO HDMI output to HDMI BACK Input of the OPPO.

I figured this would give me the best option in handling lossless audio formats including 3D Blu Ray Discs. The 103d can do the decoding for those formats without losing any audio quality over hdmi. I did consider simplifying everything and plugging the Soundbar straight into the Arc HDMI Input of my Panasonic VT60 but I wasn't sure if I'd be losing audio quality or having to deal with the Soundbar's pass through feature without utilizing the Oppo somehow.

The issue I'm having right now is getting my VT60 remote to controlling the volume as well as turning the soundbar on/ off. According to the manual this should be possible as long as I have the Viera Link turned on the VT60 and choosing the home theater sound option from the viera apps menu. With the latter every time I try to switch it to its home theater input it automatically reverts back to speakers no matter what I do. I do have HDMI CEC turned on in my Oppo 103D so I can't figure out why this is happening.

Short of considering a Universal Remote Control which I don't want to at this point is there anything I can do to make this work?

Thanks!


I had posted this question a while back and for some reason never get any feedback. If anyone's using a sound bar connected to a blu ray player hooked up to their VT60 and using their VT60's remote to control their volume operation- let me know what the heck I'm doing wrong biggrin.gif
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post #13868 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 07:53 AM
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Just figured I'd chime in and share my experience with a stubborn and annoying case of IR. When I got my 55" VT60, I ran a combination of slides and mostly full screen content to try and break it in. Normally, I might run the set 10 hours a week, but for the first 3 weeks I ran it more like 20 hours a week. If I wasn't watching something, I ran the slides for a couple of hours.

Anyway, I also did some gaming. I played Donkey Kong Tropical Freeze for probably 6-8 hours over the course of 3 days, and between 2 hour sessions I ran slides and watched movies. Yet, the image of the health meter is clearly visible against certain backgrounds (mostly on light blue skies). I have run the Disney WOW pixel flipper for several days and have since logged about 150 more hours of full screen content on the set without playing any more Donkey Kong, and yet the IR is still there. 99% of the time it's not noticeable, but I just can't seem to shake it.

I'm definitely surprised since my old 42" Panasonic plasma never had IR that lasted more than a couple of minutes, and I never even bothered to try to break that set it. Had the contrast cranked to 85 on it, too. If I could do it over again, I would not spend the $1500 on this set. As good as it looks, the image retention is a real kick in the balls because I don't feel that I was negligent or irresponsible. And the whole idea that you can't just watch your TV--that instead you need to run slides every so often and break it in--takes away from my enjoyment of the TV. Now I'm paranoid about getting IR from other sources, too. I'd like to calibrate my set, but I don't know if I should continue to try to get rid of the IR before doing it. At 200+ hours, I feel like it's probably not IR but burn-in.

Just my experience, for whatever it's worth to anyone else.
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post #13869 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles00 View Post

Just figured I'd chime in and share my experience with a stubborn and annoying case of IR. When I got my 55" VT60, I ran a combination of slides and mostly full screen content to try and break it in. Normally, I might run the set 10 hours a week, but for the first 3 weeks I ran it more like 20 hours a week. If I wasn't watching something, I ran the slides for a couple of hours.

Anyway, I also did some gaming. I played Donkey Kong Tropical Freeze for probably 6-8 hours over the course of 3 days, and between 2 hour sessions I ran slides and watched movies. Yet, the image of the health meter is clearly visible against certain backgrounds (mostly on light blue skies). I have run the Disney WOW pixel flipper for several days and have since logged about 150 more hours of full screen content on the set without playing any more Donkey Kong, and yet the IR is still there. 99% of the time it's not noticeable, but I just can't seem to shake it.

I'm definitely surprised since my old 42" Panasonic plasma never had IR that lasted more than a couple of minutes, and I never even bothered to try to break that set it. Had the contrast cranked to 85 on it, too. If I could do it over again, I would not spend the $1500 on this set. As good as it looks, the image retention is a real kick in the balls because I don't feel that I was negligent or irresponsible. And the whole idea that you can't just watch your TV--that instead you need to run slides every so often and break it in--takes away from my enjoyment of the TV. Now I'm paranoid about getting IR from other sources, too. I'd like to calibrate my set, but I don't know if I should continue to try to get rid of the IR before doing it. At 200+ hours, I feel like it's probably not IR but burn-in.

Just my experience, for whatever it's worth to anyone else.

Just curious, what was your contrast set at on the vt60 when you got IR?

I feel the same as you. If I had it to do over again I myself think I would have gone with the f8500. They do seem to be a lot less susceptible to the long duration IR. I hardley ever use my set anymore and only have maybe 500 hours on it now. I'm actually thinking about selling it. Does anyone know what a fair price is to ask for on a 65vt60?
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post #13870 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by guvadc View Post

Just curious, what was your contrast set at on the vt60 when you got IR?

I feel the same as you. If I had it to do over again I myself think I would have gone with the f8500. They do seem to be a lot less susceptible to the long duration IR. I hardley ever use my set anymore and only have maybe 500 hours on it now. I'm actually thinking about selling it. Does anyone know what a fair price is to ask for on a 65vt60?

Probably 40. I think standard is 30, so I probably bumped it up a bit to make it brighter. I've also thought about selling mine, but I figure telling someone it has IR will turn off most buyers. I'm not willing to take a $500 hit over it. I can live with it, but it does bother me.
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post #13871 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Chere View Post

I had posted this question a while back and for some reason never get any feedback. If anyone's using a sound bar connected to a blu ray player hooked up to their VT60 and using their VT60's remote to control their volume operation- let me know what the heck I'm doing wrong biggrin.gif

What happens when you simply use the Roamio remote to watch TV and control volume?

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post #13872 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 10:25 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles00 View Post

Just figured I'd chime in and share my experience with a stubborn and annoying case of IR. When I got my 55" VT60, I ran a combination of slides and mostly full screen content to try and break it in. Normally, I might run the set 10 hours a week, but for the first 3 weeks I ran it more like 20 hours a week. If I wasn't watching something, I ran the slides for a couple of hours.

Anyway, I also did some gaming. I played Donkey Kong Tropical Freeze for probably 6-8 hours over the course of 3 days, and between 2 hour sessions I ran slides and watched movies. Yet, the image of the health meter is clearly visible against certain backgrounds (mostly on light blue skies). I have run the Disney WOW pixel flipper for several days and have since logged about 150 more hours of full screen content on the set without playing any more Donkey Kong, and yet the IR is still there. 99% of the time it's not noticeable, but I just can't seem to shake it.

I'm definitely surprised since my old 42" Panasonic plasma never had IR that lasted more than a couple of minutes, and I never even bothered to try to break that set it. Had the contrast cranked to 85 on it, too. If I could do it over again, I would not spend the $1500 on this set. As good as it looks, the image retention is a real kick in the balls because I don't feel that I was negligent or irresponsible. And the whole idea that you can't just watch your TV--that instead you need to run slides every so often and break it in--takes away from my enjoyment of the TV. Now I'm paranoid about getting IR from other sources, too. I'd like to calibrate my set, but I don't know if I should continue to try to get rid of the IR before doing it. At 200+ hours, I feel like it's probably not IR but burn-in.

Just my experience, for whatever it's worth to anyone else.
The ZT, which shares a panel, is no different. I am running the pixel flipper as we speak and also thinking of selling it for this reason, but I need something that can deliver PQ on par and/or better as a replacement. The F8500 doesn't fit the bill suffice to say.
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post #13873 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 10:42 AM
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Ir susceptibility really varies panel to panel I have a vt that was abused for over 3300 hours as a floor model and only minor ir from the espn banner is present

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post #13874 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 11:08 AM
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I've actually put mine on Craiglist once but took myself off the ledge. I still go back and forth once in awhile but I don't know what I would replace it with either...

I expect IR but as others have stated my 7 year old 9UK had very little even with my HTPC and gaming habits.
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post #13875 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 11:18 AM
 
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LG has something coming out later this year in the same size that will be better in most respects, but it won't come cheap.

I'm just going to have to hook up my LCD in the main viewing area while this runs 24/7 for a week (or 2) to see if I've made any progress on the IR front. I'm glad these have a 100,000-hour rating until half-life.
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post #13876 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Ir susceptibility really varies panel to panel I have a vt that was abused for over 3300 hours as a floor model and only minor ir from the espn banner is present

And so does the method to remove it.

I've found that Pixel Flipper alone doesn't work nearly as well as including the Evangelos slides. I pretty much got rid of the dreaded Panasonic logo demo that was used on my 60ST60 floor model. It suffered over 3200 hours of that deno abuse and I've managed to fade nearly all of it. It is unnoticable with normal content and I'm loosely watching hockey now.

My 60ZT60, which I no longer watch, doesn't suffer from persistent IR from logos either. But again, I don't watch the ZT anymore and will likely sell it. The NBC logo from this Winter Olympics was a non-issue. And, the immaculate 65VT60 I just recently picked up for dirt cheap (I had no interest in another TV at the time) won't get IR no matter how hard I try.
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post #13877 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 11:40 AM
 
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Thanks for the reminder. I found slides worked very well for some uneven wear on a new OLED. I might try them out on my 1800+ hour ZT60 for the heck of it.
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post #13878 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 11:43 AM
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I just stopped worrying about it and just watch tv normally it will either go away or it won't

The st60 that I moved to other room had some espn ir but that is completely gone now just from normal viewing

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post #13879 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 11:59 AM
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On my vt I never had any trace if ir until about 250 hour mark. The first sign I saw from ir was from history channel logo. The ir that I see most frequently is from dish guide menu upper right corner dish logo with that red i. It all does fade away fairly quick I'd say probably 15 minutes. I don't game on mine and have really watch one channel all day to see how bad a channel logo could get. I do tend to be conscientious about what I'm watching too. On my end nothing too worry some yet, nearing 500 hour mark.
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post #13880 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 12:03 PM
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Mistakenly left a paused video game on all last night, probably 6-7hrs with contrast set to 75. Been running pixel wiper today and I'd say the IR is 90% gone so far, hopefully it's all gone by 2mro.

Chad is coming on Tuesday to calibrate it so the timing on this isn't good ;(
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post #13881 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 12:12 PM
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So, I've been looking up some calibration settings for the set. They all advise putting the contrast really high; one even advocates setting it at 91. Seems like that powerful of a contrast might be hard on the display and make IR more likely. Sure does look nice, though. I've decided to basically give up on the Donkey Kong IR I have. It's there but only noticeable under certain circumstances. I'm just paranoid about further IR/burn-in. I can live with what's there but don't want it, or another case of it, to get worse.
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post #13882 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 12:16 PM
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That 91 contrast is for a day mode using high panel brightness if you don't need that level of light output stick with settings using mid panel brightness

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post #13883 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 12:28 PM
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Do you guys know if Apple's wireless keyboard pairs with the VT60?
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post #13884 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 01:03 PM
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Thanks. I bumped it down to around 80, which is what CNET's settings advised. My old set was at 85, and that looked fine to me, but then again I never experienced lasting IR/burn-in. This set, however, already has some of those issues from a contrast setting of 40...
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post #13885 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 01:08 PM
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I don't think contrast plays as big a part as some folks think

It's more content and panel variance related IMO

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post #13886 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ab2ab View Post

And so does the method to remove it.

I've found that Pixel Flipper alone doesn't work nearly as well as including the Evangelos slides. I pretty much got rid of the dreaded Panasonic logo demo that was used on my 60ST60 floor model. It suffered over 3200 hours of that deno abuse and I've managed to fade nearly all of it. It is unnoticable with normal content and I'm loosely watching hockey now.

My 60ZT60, which I no longer watch, doesn't suffer from persistent IR from logos either. But again, I don't watch the ZT anymore and will likely sell it. The NBC logo from this Winter Olympics was a non-issue. And, the immaculate 65VT60 I just recently picked up for dirt cheap (I had no interest in another TV at the time) won't get IR no matter how hard I try.

Are the slides at this link the Evangelos slides? I think they are, but figured I'd double check with someone who uses them. Thanks.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/hdtv-video-displays-processors/52673-plasma-break-how-properly-break-your-new-plasma-display.html
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post #13887 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 03:08 PM
 
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Robert is legit, so that is probably fine. But this is another confirmed source: http://www.eaprogramming.com/downloads/download_main.htm
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post #13888 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Oakley View Post

What happens when you simply use the Roamio remote to watch TV and control volume?

I tried that and it's a no go. I figured a Panasonic Soundbar hooked up to a blu ray player going to a panasonic PDP wouldn't be hard to operate with the display's remote but apparently not mad.gif
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post #13889 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Achilles00 View Post

Normally, I might run the set 10 hours a week, but for the first 3 weeks I ran it more like 20 hours a week. If I wasn't watching something, I ran the slides for a couple of hours.
So at the end of three weeks you had about 60 hours on your set.
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Anyway, I also did some gaming.
During the first three weeks?
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I played Donkey Kong Tropical Freeze for probably 6-8 hours over the course of 3 days
About 13% of your set's first 60 hours was Donkey Kong.
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Yet, the image of the health meter is clearly visible against certain backgrounds (mostly on light blue skies).
A lot of people wouldn't have been surprise, because they think that as a panel ages it gets less vulnerable to IR. I don't know if that true.
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I have run the Disney WOW pixel flipper for several days and have since logged about 150 more hours of full screen content on the set without playing any more Donkey Kong, and yet the IR is still there.
Is your pixel flipper time a portion of the 150 hours of full screen content? How many of those additional hours were flipper hours?
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99% of the time it's not noticeable, but I just can't seem to shake it.
It sounds like there may have been some improvement. Is that right?
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And the whole idea that you can't just watch your TV--that instead you need to run slides every so often and break it in--takes away from my enjoyment of the TV.
That's probably why some people go with LCD technology.
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Now I'm paranoid about getting IR from other sources, too. I'd like to calibrate my set, but I don't know if I should continue to try to get rid of the IR before doing it.
I'm not sure what you mean by calibration, but if you mean having the setup menu on for several hours, that's probably not a good idea right now.
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At 200+ hours, I feel like it's probably not IR but burn-in.
200+ hours isn't very long. and I don't see any reason to suspect that you have burn-in. More likely you have buyers remorse. wink.gif

Here is some information about IR that you may find helpful.

Two Types of IR - Part I

Two Types of IR - Part II

Avoid and Remove IR.
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post #13890 of 15568 Old 04-06-2014, 08:01 PM
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lol at Donkey Kong. biggrin.gif

Actually, I was even worse. For the first 100 hours, I played Phantasy Star Online, an RPG game, and lifebar was stuck for a few hours. biggrin.gif Did I care? No~ I knew I won't be suffering from long term IR and I still am not.
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