Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 486 - AVS Forum
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post #14551 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 07:28 AM
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This might be far-fetched, but it happened to me. I had a hum through my audio receiver that was not always there. I finally isolated it to a laptop power adapter that was plugged into the same circuit as the receiver. The adapter was an aftermarket replacement and seemed to emit conductive interference from its power connection. When I replaced it with a real HP one, the hum disappeared.


As I said this might be far-fetched, but did happen.
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post #14552 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 08:52 AM
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I had D-Nice recalibrate my 60VT60 this past Saturday, and apparently all of the VT60s drift considerably regardless of how many hours are on them. I had mine first calibrated at 500 hours, and the recal was done at 2500 hours, and he said it had drifted so much, it was basically a full calibration instead of a touch up.

Just thought I'd offer that bit of information for people who plan on getting their VT60 calibrated and for those who already have.
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post #14553 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 12:40 PM
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About HT hum

When I got my new OPPO 95 a few years ago it caused my HT system to hum when watching tv. I had to unplug the OPPO to stop the noise. When I switched from Comcast to Verizon Fios the hum went away. It was the Comcast HD recorder that generated the hum, not the OPPO.
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post #14554 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 03:57 PM
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I Must be the last fortunate guy to pick up by mistake the last 55vt60. Since there are no more in town.

Anyway,after 170 hours or different movies and sports watching(did not do the slides break in cause I got them when I had 150 hours, so I applied them for 10 hours.

I applied DNICE pro settings and watching wold cup soccer and yes daytime pro1 is a little better due to shade and sunny side than pro2. But overall pro2 looked a little more realistic(facial and so on) a little brightness would had been ok.

So I went to Pro settings, panel brightnes and change pro1 to MID and Pro2 to high

at the end the Pro2 gave me a little brightness but skin colors are not the same.

Is there a way of improving brightness without distorting anything.

I couldn't find Silly sally pro settings or some other pro settings, can someone give me the link. tia

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post #14555 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
I had D-Nice recalibrate my 60VT60 this past Saturday, and apparently all of the VT60s drift considerably regardless of how many hours are on them. I had mine first calibrated at 500 hours, and the recal was done at 2500 hours, and he said it had drifted so much, it was basically a full calibration instead of a touch up.

Just thought I'd offer that bit of information for people who plan on getting their VT60 calibrated and for those who already have.

Not that uncommon for sets to drift especially after 2000 hours.

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post #14556 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
I had D-Nice recalibrate my 60VT60 this past Saturday ...
Thanks for posting your calibration comments. I've added a link to your post in the flat panel (post number two) lists that are linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post.

If you have further comments to make about your audio or video calibration, it would be great if you could use the edit command to add them to your original post. Enjoy.
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post #14557 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
Not that uncommon for sets to drift especially after 2000 hours.
Of course.

Maybe I should have given a little more context: He specifically mentioned that they drifted considerably more then the previous VT50 series, to the point that it wasn't really a recalibration, but pretty much a full calibration from scratch. This goes for VT60s with 500, 1000, 2000, 5000 hours etc. They don't hold nearly as well as the VT50s. Take that as you will.
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post #14558 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
Not that uncommon for sets to drift especially after 2000 hours.
I think the point that djsketchie made is D-Nice said the VT60 drifted so much that the re-cal was more like a full calibration.

It would be interesting to find out whether D-Nice really meant all VT60s or just the one that he was working on. Both of my VT60 units required only minor adjustments with 2000 hours after the initial calibrations. My 65VT60 drifted a bit more than my 60VT60.

Larry

Last edited by LarryInRI; 06-23-2014 at 06:04 PM. Reason: my question was answered as I was typing my post
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post #14559 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
Of course.

Maybe I should have given a little more context: He specifically mentioned that they drifted considerably more then the previous VT50 series, to the point that it wasn't really a recalibration, but pretty much a full calibration from scratch. This goes for VT60s with 500, 1000, 2000, 5000 hours etc. They don't hold nearly as well as the VT50s. Take that as you will.
Thanks for the info I'll keep an eye ion my set will probably have a touch up done next soring. Will report back on what Chad finds . My set has 4000 hours so should be a good test
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post #14560 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
I think the point that djsketchie made is D-Nice said the VT60 drifted so much that the re-cal was more like a full calibration.

It would be interesting to find out whether D-Nice really meant all VT60s or just the one that he was working on. Both of my VT60 units required only minor adjustments with 2000 hours after the initial calibrations. My 65VT60 drifted a bit more than my 60VT60.

Larry

Thanks for the info Larry
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post #14561 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
I think the point that djsketchie made is D-Nice said the VT60 drifted so much that the re-cal was more like a full calibration.

It would be interesting to find out whether D-Nice really meant all VT60s or just the one that he was working on. Both of my VT60 units required only minor adjustments with 2000 hours after the initial calibrations. My 65VT60 drifted a bit more than my 60VT60.

Larry
He said all the VT60s he's worked on have had this characteristic regardless of the number of hours. So basically they don't really settle in after the usual 300-500 hours of break in was the impression I got from him. I'm no expert - just relaying info gleaned from my "re-cal."
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post #14562 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 06:36 PM
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Can you post your before and after reports ?

65VT60(Calibrated by Chad B)
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post #14563 of 15670 Old 06-23-2014, 07:44 PM
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Can you post your before and after reports ?
I'll try to upload/link them tomorrow when I have time. It's been a long day and ready to hit the hay.
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post #14564 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
He said all the VT60s he's worked on have had this characteristic regardless of the number of hours. So basically they don't really settle in after the usual 300-500 hours of break in was the impression I got from him. I'm no expert - just relaying info gleaned from my "re-cal."
Do they charge less for the re-cal? Wonder how long after the calibration the TV will drift to where it is no longer close to calibrated results. That would suck to pay all that money for a calibration then 300 or so hours later the results are no better then using a default mode or someone else's settings.
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post #14565 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 08:13 AM
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Hey guys - tried to upload my pre and post calibration reports, but it says the file size for PDFs is limited to 19.5KB, and mine are like 120-130KB. Not sure what the workaround is, but I doubt I'll bother hosting them somewhere just to provide a download link. In any case, the reds had gone through the roof compared to the blue and green, which was the main problem. The gamma still tracked the 2.22 line pretty well, and the color temperature had gone from the 6,500K ideal down to about 6,000 across the board.

My first calibration was done before he/everyone else figured out how to get panel brightness high accurate, so my ISF-Day was 35ft/L and my ISF-Night was 30ft/L. The new report has my ISF-Day at 48ft/L and my ISF-Night at 35ft/L, which was the increase in light output I had been looking for. The previous calibration also used the Warm2 color temp for both ISF-Day and ISF-Night, while this go around, he used the Normal color temp for both.

He does indeed charge less for a re-cal, but I'm a little hesitant to disclose what he charged me in case that's crossing some sort of unspoken line. If you're truly interested in his prices, I'm sure you can contact him directly for that information.

So basically, the gamma was still pretty good and the color temp was a little low, but it was the RGB that was the main culprit in terms of drifting.
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post #14566 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
Hey guys - tried to upload my pre and post calibration reports, but it says the file size for PDFs is limited to 19.5KB, and mine are like 120-130KB. Not sure what the workaround is, but I doubt I'll bother hosting them somewhere just to provide a download link. In any case, the reds had gone through the roof compared to the blue and green, which was the main problem. The gamma still tracked the 2.22 line pretty well, and the color temperature had gone from the 6,500K ideal down to about 6,000 across the board.

My first calibration was done before he/everyone else figured out how to get panel brightness high accurate, so my ISF-Day was 35ft/L and my ISF-Night was 30ft/L. The new report has my ISF-Day at 48ft/L and my ISF-Night at 35ft/L, which was the increase in light output I had been looking for. The previous calibration also used the Warm2 color temp for both ISF-Day and ISF-Night, while this go around, he used the Normal color temp for both.

He does indeed charge less for a re-cal, but I'm a little hesitant to disclose what he charged me in case that's crossing some sort of unspoken line. If you're truly interested in his prices, I'm sure you can contact him directly for that information.

So basically, the gamma was still pretty good and the color temp was a little low, but it was the RGB that was the main culprit in terms of drifting.
Thanks, I wasn't looking for exact numbers. I was just curious if they charged less when they come back to re-cal.
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post #14567 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post
I think the point that djsketchie made is D-Nice said the VT60 drifted so much that the re-cal was more like a full calibration.

It would be interesting to find out whether D-Nice really meant all VT60s or just the one that he was working on. Both of my VT60 units required only minor adjustments with 2000 hours after the initial calibrations. My 65VT60 drifted a bit more than my 60VT60.

Larry
I had Chad out a couple of times last year on my VT60 (mostly for gamma and light output changes) and there was only minor change in color and greyscale after the 400 hour mark to around 1000 hours or so.

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post #14568 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 02:35 PM
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Thanks, I wasn't looking for exact numbers. I was just curious if they charged less when they come back to re-cal.
Yes, every calibrator I know of charges much less for a re-cal compared to the initial one.

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post #14569 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 03:49 PM
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In any case, the reds had gone through the roof compared to the blue and green, which was the main problem.
New formula red phosphor implicated, perhaps?
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post #14570 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
Hey guys - tried to upload my pre and post calibration reports, but it says the file size for PDFs is limited to 19.5KB, and mine are like 120-130KB. Not sure what the workaround is, but I doubt I'll bother hosting them somewhere just to provide a download link. In any case, the reds had gone through the roof compared to the blue and green, which was the main problem. The gamma still tracked the 2.22 line pretty well, and the color temperature had gone from the 6,500K ideal down to about 6,000 across the board.

My first calibration was done before he/everyone else figured out how to get panel brightness high accurate, so my ISF-Day was 35ft/L and my ISF-Night was 30ft/L. The new report has my ISF-Day at 48ft/L and my ISF-Night at 35ft/L, which was the increase in light output I had been looking for. The previous calibration also used the Warm2 color temp for both ISF-Day and ISF-Night, while this go around, he used the Normal color temp for both.

He does indeed charge less for a re-cal, but I'm a little hesitant to disclose what he charged me in case that's crossing some sort of unspoken line. If you're truly interested in his prices, I'm sure you can contact him directly for that information.

So basically, the gamma was still pretty good and the color temp was a little low, but it was the RGB that was the main culprit in terms of drifting.

Thanks for the details sounds like he calibrated with high panel brightness the second time around. That is pretty much what I expected. Panasonic greyscale tends to drift towards red so no surprises there.

65VT60(Calibrated by Chad B)
55ST60(Calibrated by Chunon)
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post #14571 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric3316 View Post
Do they charge less for the re-cal? Wonder how long after the calibration the TV will drift to where it is no longer close to calibrated results. That would suck to pay all that money for a calibration then 300 or so hours later the results are no better then using a default mode or someone else's settings.

Except that is not the case, Larry's set barely drifted after 2000 hours and David has confirmed his set drifted very little in 800 hours. So let's not panic here

65VT60(Calibrated by Chad B)
55ST60(Calibrated by Chunon)
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post #14572 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 06:14 PM
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Except that is not the case, Larry's set barely drifted after 2000 hours and David has confirmed his set drifted very little in 800 hours. So let's not panic here
I wasn't trying to start a panic or anything - Just relaying info to interested parties here at the forum. He'll probably be back out here in a month or so to calibrate another TV of mine that didn't have enough hours yet, so I'll ask if he wants to take some baseline measurements to see if there is any drift since the re-cal for curiosity's sake. Even with the drift from the initial calibration, it was still noticeably better than either of the THX presets, so even if I hadn't had the re-cal, the original calibration would have still been worth it just for the gamma and color temperature stability alone. I also think I read somewhere that color accuracy is pretty low down on the list of priorities when it comes to human perception behind contrast, gamma, and temperature.

I guess I'm lucky that D-Nice lives close enough to not require a special "tour" in my area.
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post #14573 of 15670 Old 06-24-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by djsketchie View Post
I wasn't trying to start a panic or anything - Just relaying info to interested parties here at the forum. He'll probably be back out here in a month or so to calibrate another TV of mine that didn't have enough hours yet, so I'll ask if he wants to take some baseline measurements to see if there is any drift since the re-cal for curiosity's sake. Even with the drift from the initial calibration, it was still noticeably better than either of the THX presets, so even if I hadn't had the re-cal, the original calibration would have still been worth it just for the gamma and color temperature stability alone. I also think I read somewhere that color accuracy is pretty low down on the list of priorities when it comes to human perception behind contrast, gamma, and temperature.

I guess I'm lucky that D-Nice lives close enough to not require a special "tour" in my area.
I understand that no worries, there are some anti pro calibration folks around that will seize on any little thing and try to discredit it .
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post #14574 of 15670 Old 06-25-2014, 09:57 AM
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New VT60 owner!

Hey!

I just upgraded from a Panasonic 54VT25 to a 60VT60 and have some questions. I used the search, so please bare with me if these questions have been addresses already.

I've just completed 100 hours break in period using DNICE slides.

1) Is there any way to get the smart apps audio to work through my receiver / surround sound and not the VT60 speakers? I believe I read this can be accomplished via HDMI ARC (which the TV supports) but my receiver (Onkyo HT-R2295) does not. The other option would be an optical cable but the receiver only has one optical link which is being used by my Cable DVR device (the HDMI port is fried on the DVR so I have to use component / optical).

2) I assume this is just how the TV is, as it was similar with my VT25. Low light / dark scenes are SO dark. It's true what they say, these sets have incredible inky blacks. So much that I find it's to the point you can barely see the persons face in a dark scene. I have the TV set to THX Cinema, I've tried other picture modes, and even played in custom and got it a bit better but PQ suffers in other areas. Is this just how it's supposed to look or am I missing something?

I do plan on having it professionally calibrated in time, but I didn't notice a huge difference with my VT25 after it was done. It was very similar to what it looks like in THX mode out of the box.

Thanks guys!

Last edited by vinnie123; 06-25-2014 at 10:02 AM.
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post #14575 of 15670 Old 06-25-2014, 10:17 AM
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Check if your DVR or PVR has an output digital(rca) port for audio. If so, use this for audio to AVR and then connect the optical cable from tv to AVR, don't forget to activate the Viera link in your TV, and in your APPS set the audio to HOME Theater.

If not the above get a new DVR.

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IR 2 BT RE-BL
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post #14576 of 15670 Old 06-25-2014, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie123 View Post
Hey!

I just upgraded from a Panasonic 54VT25 to a 60VT60 and have some questions. I used the search, so please bare with me if these questions have been addresses already.

I've just completed 100 hours break in period using DNICE slides.

1) Is there any way to get the smart apps audio to work through my receiver / surround sound and not the VT60 speakers? I believe I read this can be accomplished via HDMI ARC (which the TV supports) but my receiver (Onkyo HT-R2295) does not. The other option would be an optical cable but the receiver only has one optical link which is being used by my Cable DVR device (the HDMI port is fried on the DVR so I have to use component / optical).

2) I assume this is just how the TV is, as it was similar with my VT25. Low light / dark scenes are SO dark. It's true what they say, these sets have incredible inky blacks. So much that I find it's to the point you can barely see the persons face in a dark scene. I have the TV set to THX Cinema, I've tried other picture modes, and even played in custom and got it a bit better but PQ suffers in other areas. Is this just how it's supposed to look or am I missing something?

I do plan on having it professionally calibrated in time, but I didn't notice a huge difference with my VT25 after it was done. It was very similar to what it looks like in THX mode out of the box.

Thanks guys!
I don't have an ARC AVR to test but have you turned on HDMI/CRC(Viera Connect I think it's called) on the tv then I think the option to set the speakers to HT comes up. If not someone else may chime in.

I also have the black crush problem when I use the Uverse system. I have set up Custom mode with gamma set to 1.8 or 2.0 to help. So I toggle between that and a pro mode when needed. I have to do that when watching some network shows then other shows/channels can look great with a darker gamma setting.
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post #14577 of 15670 Old 06-25-2014, 05:05 PM
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Hey!

I just upgraded from a Panasonic 54VT25 to a 60VT60 and have some questions. I used the search, so please bare with me if these questions have been addresses already.

I've just completed 100 hours break in period using DNICE slides.

1) Is there any way to get the smart apps audio to work through my receiver / surround sound and not the VT60 speakers? I believe I read this can be accomplished via HDMI ARC (which the TV supports) but my receiver (Onkyo HT-R2295) does not. The other option would be an optical cable but the receiver only has one optical link which is being used by my Cable DVR device (the HDMI port is fried on the DVR so I have to use component / optical).

2) I assume this is just how the TV is, as it was similar with my VT25. Low light / dark scenes are SO dark. It's true what they say, these sets have incredible inky blacks. So much that I find it's to the point you can barely see the persons face in a dark scene. I have the TV set to THX Cinema, I've tried other picture modes, and even played in custom and got it a bit better but PQ suffers in other areas. Is this just how it's supposed to look or am I missing something?

I do plan on having it professionally calibrated in time, but I didn't notice a huge difference with my VT25 after it was done. It was very similar to what it looks like in THX mode out of the box.

Thanks guys!

The shadow detail is excellent on the VT60 a calibration will definitely clear that up. If you turn viera link on then in the apps menu there is viera setting where you can select home theater as the speaker default.

65VT60(Calibrated by Chad B)
55ST60(Calibrated by Chunon)
Darbee DVP5000
Sony BDV-F7 3dbluray/soundbar
Calman Enthusiast/I1Pro/I1D3
Dish Network with Hopper/Super Joey
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post #14578 of 15670 Old 06-25-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by vinnie123 View Post
Hey!

I just upgraded from a Panasonic 54VT25 to a 60VT60 and have some questions. I used the search, so please bare with me if these questions have been addresses already.

I've just completed 100 hours break in period using DNICE slides.

1) Is there any way to get the smart apps audio to work through my receiver / surround sound and not the VT60 speakers? I believe I read this can be accomplished via HDMI ARC (which the TV supports) but my receiver (Onkyo HT-R2295) does not. The other option would be an optical cable but the receiver only has one optical link which is being used by my Cable DVR device (the HDMI port is fried on the DVR so I have to use component / optical).

2) I assume this is just how the TV is, as it was similar with my VT25. Low light / dark scenes are SO dark. It's true what they say, these sets have incredible inky blacks. So much that I find it's to the point you can barely see the persons face in a dark scene. I have the TV set to THX Cinema, I've tried other picture modes, and even played in custom and got it a bit better but PQ suffers in other areas. Is this just how it's supposed to look or am I missing something?

I do plan on having it professionally calibrated in time, but I didn't notice a huge difference with my VT25 after it was done. It was very similar to what it looks like in THX mode out of the box.

Thanks guys!
As mentioned, that is definitely a calibration matter as the VT60 shadow detail is outstanding to say the least.

I am not sure what area you're in, but I would highly recommend contacting Chad B to see if/when he's out your way.
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post #14579 of 15670 Old 06-25-2014, 10:23 PM
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Just a heads up. I just purchased a 65" vt60 for $1200 at an RC Willey outlet brand new in the box. They can't sell them in the retail stores because they have been discontinued. I would call your local rc willey and see if they have any in stock. It's worth a shot
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post #14580 of 15670 Old 06-26-2014, 11:02 AM
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Just a heads up. I just purchased a 65" vt60 for $1200 at an RC Willey outlet brand new in the box. They can't sell them in the retail stores because they have been discontinued. I would call your local rc willey and see if they have any in stock. It's worth a shot
Wow that's one heck of a deal. Nice find.
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