Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 498 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14911 of 16698 Old 08-28-2014, 09:49 AM
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meathead I think you are seeing phosphor trails. If your set is new for some reason it is more likely you will see them. They will go away if so - or at least go away to the point where you will really have to try very hard to see them again. When you get closer to 2000 hrs the set seems to behave a bit differently (for the better) on these pannys.
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post #14912 of 16698 Old 08-29-2014, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esteban Medaglia View Post
Where can you find this set for around $1K?
It's $1097 at Frys. Sears had it a few weeks back for $750 after cashback.
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post #14913 of 16698 Old 08-29-2014, 02:49 AM
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I'm wondering why most people/calibrators tell us to keep the sharpness setting at "0" or at "20"? With my set, if i keep the sharpness under 50 everything looks blurry. I find that about 65 or 70 is just right.. I even see the tv guide as being super blurry when the sharpess is in the 0-20 range. Has anyone else noticed this?

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post #14914 of 16698 Old 08-29-2014, 05:50 AM
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I always thought sharpness was a personal preference. But when Chad calibrated my 60" ZT, he set the sharpness at 16. Pictures looks sharp on my set.

Last edited by eaayoung; 08-31-2014 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Changed 20 to 16.
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post #14915 of 16698 Old 08-29-2014, 05:55 AM
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The only correct setting for Sharpness is OFF. OFF may or may not be 0 and the only way to tell is to use a Sharpness evaluation pattern.

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post #14916 of 16698 Old 08-29-2014, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
The only correct setting for Sharpness is OFF. OFF may or may not be 0 and the only way to tell is to use a Sharpness evaluation pattern.
I am not sure I ever tried it at 0, but i will check how it looks when on 0... But when on around the 10-30ish range, it looks very blurry, and I don't mean in a way that may or may not be subjective, it's straight up blurry (If the person watching has perfect vision that is). I am doing comparisons between the vt60 and f8500, i have them side by side for the past few days.. The only way the vt60 matches the sharpness of the f8500 is when the vt60's sharpness is set to 65 or better..

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post #14917 of 16698 Old 08-29-2014, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony1 View Post
I am not sure I ever tried it at 0, but i will check how it looks when on 0... But when on around the 10-30ish range, it looks very blurry, and I don't mean in a way that may or may not be subjective, it's straight up blurry (If the person watching has perfect vision that is). I am doing comparisons between the vt60 and f8500, i have them side by side for the past few days.. The only way the vt60 matches the sharpness of the f8500 is when the vt60's sharpness is set to 65 or better..
You could create your own drawing/test pattern (in 1920x1080) and throw it over to the VT60.
It will become quickly apparent as to whether anything is being added or taken away. After all, you created it, so you would know exactly how it should be reproduced.
Its a 10 minute exercise at the most.
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post #14918 of 16698 Old 08-31-2014, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony1 View Post
I am not sure I ever tried it at 0, but i will check how it looks when on 0... But when on around the 10-30ish range, it looks very blurry, and I don't mean in a way that may or may not be subjective, it's straight up blurry (If the person watching has perfect vision that is). I am doing comparisons between the vt60 and f8500, i have them side by side for the past few days.. The only way the vt60 matches the sharpness of the f8500 is when the vt60's sharpness is set to 65 or better..
I actually found the same results as you Tony. On bluray playback, the picture is very sharp regardless of the sharpness setting. However with FioS channels, the picture is definitely blurry unless you use a higher sharpness setting (>65). It is really apparent on the channel guide. Not sure if it's the source, but on my Samsungs the sharpness usually left at the default of 20 which generally produces tack sharp images and menus. I always found this a bit odd.
Since it is a 'personal' preference, I just end up using a high sharpness setting on my VT for FioS.

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post #14919 of 16698 Old 08-31-2014, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrenheit View Post
You could create your own drawing/test pattern (in 1920x1080) and throw it over to the VT60.
It will become quickly apparent as to whether anything is being added or taken away. After all, you created it, so you would know exactly how it should be reproduced.
Its a 10 minute exercise at the most.
Thanks for the tip!

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Originally Posted by defjamz View Post
I actually found the same results as you Tony. On bluray playback, the picture is very sharp regardless of the sharpness setting. However with FioS channels, the picture is definitely blurry unless you use a higher sharpness setting (>65). It is really apparent on the channel guide. Not sure if it's the source, but on my Samsungs the sharpness usually left at the default of 20 which generally produces tack sharp images and menus. I always found this a bit odd.
Since it is a 'personal' preference, I just end up using a high sharpness setting on my VT for FioS.
I also am on Fios as well. I am assuming that Fios is causing this, because there's no way
that all these calibrators could have gotten it that wrong, although alot of them seem to like it set to "warm 2" which i feel throws the colors off... I was almost about to return the vt60 just because of that, until i cranked the sharpness up, and it brought the PQ back to what an hdtv should look like.. I also have my Samsung on the same low sharpness setting that you do and the picture is super sharp.. That is very strange to say that least..

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post #14920 of 16698 Old 08-31-2014, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony1 View Post
I also am on Fios as well. I am assuming that Fios is causing this, because there's no way
that all these calibrators could have gotten it that wrong, although alot of them seem to like it set to "warm 2" which i feel throws the colors off... I was almost about to return the vt60 just because of that, until i cranked the sharpness up, and it brought the PQ back to what an hdtv should look like.. I also have my Samsung on the same low sharpness setting that you do and the picture is super sharp.. That is very strange to say that least..
Warm 2 is chosen first because it is usually the closest to the D65 White Point which is the heart of calibration. If Warm 1 or any other preset is closer to D65 than that will be the preset used because fewer changes will need to be made to the settings to get D65 set correctly. This is Grayscale calibration and has nothing to do with the Sharpness control.

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post #14921 of 16698 Old 08-31-2014, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
Warm 2 is chosen first because it is usually the closest to the D65 White Point which is the heart of calibration. If Warm 1 or any other preset is closer to D65 than that will be the preset used because fewer changes will need to be made to the settings to get D65 set correctly. This is Grayscale calibration and has nothing to do with the Sharpness control.
Oh, I already figured that they had some reason for setting it that way, by way of using some type of light and color measurement equipment, I was just implying that I do not see warm 2 as being accurate, no way, no how.. On my set, whenever i switch it to warm 2, colors that are clearly supposed to be white, all of a sudden turn a yellowish/tan tinge.. Also, skin tones seem to be off.. As for the "warm" settings having to do with the sharpness settings, I never thought that, but I see why you might of thought that, since I may have mentioned them in a "run on sentence" together.. Thanks for the reply, though..

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post #14922 of 16698 Old 09-01-2014, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
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Oh, I already figured that they had some reason for setting it that way, by way of using some type of light and color measurement equipment, I was just implying that I do not see warm 2 as being accurate, no way, no how.. On my set,
That's why we calibrate, Tony1. All displays are different coming off the assembly line. No calibration is done at the factory. You can diddle with the controls and you may or may not get a picture which is acceptable to you, but the only way to do it correctly is calibrating with meters and software. There is no other way,
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post #14923 of 16698 Old 09-03-2014, 02:40 AM
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Hi guys, maybe not the right place to ask this question. I have the 65" vt60 and would like to purchase another 3 pairs of 3d glasses. Can anyone recommend which ones to look at? I can't seem to find many reviews on 3d active glasses?
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post #14924 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 08:49 AM
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Does anyone know if ARC can be turned off on the VT60? Or, is it a matter of NOT using the #2 HDMI port?
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post #14925 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steffche View Post
Hi guys, maybe not the right place to ask this question. I have the 65" vt60 and would like to purchase another 3 pairs of 3d glasses. Can anyone recommend which ones to look at? I can't seem to find many reviews on 3d active glasses?
The Samsung SSG-5100GB glasses work OK for me and they're not expensive.

Don't use a big word when a more diminutive one would suffice.
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post #14926 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 10:35 AM
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Does anyone know if ARC can be turned off on the VT60? Or, is it a matter of NOT using the #2 HDMI port?
Anyone???
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post #14927 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 11:04 AM
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Anyone???
I don't own a VT60, but my assumption is that you should be able to turn ARC off in both the display and an AVR. Have you checked the manual?
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post #14928 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 11:07 AM
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I don't own a VT60, but my assumption is that you should be able to turn ARC off in both the display and an AVR. Have you checked the manual?


No I haven't checked the manual. I'll find it and check later tonight and post back here if I can.
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post #14929 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 12:48 PM
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Anyone???
Why would you want to?
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post #14930 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 12:51 PM
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Why would you want to?
Sorry, has to do with this thread.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread2.php?p=27168194#post27168194

Last edited by nygiant75; 09-05-2014 at 12:54 PM.
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post #14931 of 16698 Old 09-05-2014, 04:24 PM
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Why would you want to?
ARC can work fine for some people, but when components are from different manufacturers that chances of having trouble go up significantly. Many times the simplest solution is to turn ARC off and use a universal remote.
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post #14932 of 16698 Old 09-08-2014, 09:10 AM
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ARC, which means Audio Return Channel, implies that the end user has an ARC HDMI input on their receiver and they want to extract the audio signal, which by the way is only two channel.

As far as universal remotes go, one should always have a well programmed UR to replace the plethora of remotes on your coffee table regardless of using ARC or not.
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post #14933 of 16698 Old 09-08-2014, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by lionorion View Post
ARC, which means Audio Return Channel, implies that the end user has an ARC HDMI input on their receiver and they want to extract the audio signal, which by the way is only two channel.

As far as universal remotes go, one should always have a well programmed UR to replace the plethora of remotes on your coffee table regardless of using ARC or not.
Not sure where you get the ARC being only two channel, iirc it'll pass whatever the app or content is providing.

With HDMI-CEC it's possible to avoid having to use a universal remote, at least for most folks. I've got a Tivo connected to a Denon AVR-X3000 and the VT60. The VT60 is set to pass commands via CEC. I then have my Tivo remote configured to send the VT60 IR volume commands. These are passed to the X3000. This allows retaining use of the Tivo remote (arguably MUCH better than any UR out there) with really no complications at all. Likewise, I can use the Panasonic remote for any on-TV apps in a similar manner. This is kind of important as few universal remotes cover the same range of functionality when using TV apps or the Tivo. Yeah, some can come 'close enough' but then they usually have a terrible button layout (at least compared to the factory remotes).

But then I don't use any of the apps as they're pretty much terrible compared to solutions on the Tivo, Chromecast, Roku or AppleTV units also connected to the X3000.

I'm not arguing against using a universal remote, just offering that they're not as necessary as they might have been in the past if you're using a modern TV, AVR and connected devices.
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post #14934 of 16698 Old 09-08-2014, 03:26 PM
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I think he meant from external sources you only get two channels.
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post #14935 of 16698 Old 09-10-2014, 09:31 AM
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Hi!

I just bought a 65vt60 (one of the last ones here in The Netherlands i think), the image is just great. But when I'm watching movies (also full Blu rays), i'm having these gradient banding when an image goes from bright to dark (gradiently? :P). This was also on the vt50 i owned very shortly. I'm using purely my HTPC as a source.

Could it mean it's the source, or is this normal? (Because my old crappy 50 inch LG plasma did not even have it this bad.

Last edited by Tennie; 09-10-2014 at 09:35 AM.
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post #14936 of 16698 Old 09-10-2014, 11:36 AM
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@Tennie

The posterisation type banding you describe could possibly be reduced by tweaking settings. However, a certain amount is pretty normal for these sets.
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post #14937 of 16698 Old 09-10-2014, 01:35 PM
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Thanks!

Ok, then i will let it go(after some tweaking), i only wondered if it was a bad thing. Once you see the effects, you can't stop seeing it .

What tweaks could you recommend? i've tried a lot, but nothing seems to help. Setting the HDMI source to 'Photo' seems to help a bit, but then again, everything will become brighter.
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post #14938 of 16698 Old 09-10-2014, 04:36 PM
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Usually torch lights, right? Tron Legacy shows it up badly with some parts and when the woman's finger lights up before they kit him out.

Yet Iron Man's repulsors are smooth. As are car lights.
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post #14939 of 16698 Old 09-10-2014, 05:12 PM
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Usually torch lights, right? Tron Legacy shows it up badly with some parts and when the woman's finger lights up before they kit him out.

Yet Iron Man's repulsors are smooth. As are car lights.
Indeed! It's in cases where some light source relative quickly goes from full bright to full dark (but gradually).
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post #14940 of 16698 Old 09-10-2014, 07:27 PM
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http://www.avforums.com/threads/what...izing.1598890/

Quote:
Originally Posted by VierraFan
Also, it's much more likely that blue color will exhibit DFC, because response time of blue phosphor is very short. Green and red are much slower, so they are producing light between subfields also (as I recorded in dithering thread). Unfortunately, they are leaving yellow trails for the same reason. Quicker the phosphor = less yellow trailing but higher possibility of DFC
I guess thats why I see it badly with Tron and certain torches.
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