Official Panasonic VT60/VT65 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 531 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15901 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 01:58 AM
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Has anyone heard of this happening?

I've had my VT60 for well over a year now, I've never had issues with the TV recognizing/using the internet. Today I turn on the TV and I notice that I can't launch netflix.

I checked the Network Status option, and in the graphic it has, it shows: TV ---green OK checkmark--- Router ---broken mark--- Internet.

I assume the TV is connecting to the router since it has a green checkmark, but then the router to the internet has a broken line and it says "Connection to the server failed".

However,
The router is connected by wires to the PC and my internet is working fine.
My smartphone is connected wirelessly to the router and the internet works just fine too.
The TV has a DLNA server set up, and it recognizes my music stored on my PC, and I assume that is working through the router's wifi.

So if all of that is working just fine, even the DLNA, then why am I unable to connect to the internet through my TV?

I tried making a new network connection on the TV by deleting the old one, but same issue happened.
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post #15902 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 04:50 AM
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"Queertrons" happen all the time with router, PC, network, and internet connections for no apparent reason. For me, the usual solution is to reboot the router by unplugging it for maybe a minute. When the router powers up it will likely assign new IP addresses to one or more items of my network and A/V equipment, which often fixes the problem.

When in doubt, do the right thing.
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post #15903 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 07:34 AM
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Guys, new to the forum but have read it greatly in the past. Not sure if this has come up before but for the gamers out there, is there anything in the TV calibration that would make static Huds in Destiny and to a lesser extent, Diablo 3 be less sticky. Destiny I have stopped playing for months now as the HUd retained in my screen. It's almost 99% gone now. But I was playing Diablo 3 last night and noticed that the three boxes over your abilities that glow green retained and it took about and hour of a golf game and 15 minutes of wiping to remove it. Unfortunately both games do not have HUD transparency options (disgraceful).

I calibrated my tv through the disney Wow disc but did not touch the advanced calibration features. I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable then myself might now a few advanced calibrations that lessen the brightness of some of the HUD elements, the areas of the HUD that are most susceptible to image retention and possible burn. I've heard lower your contrast but im already at 50 on contrast and the games are both pretty dark. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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post #15904 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMFDMvsEnya View Post
Actually it is slightly more intricate than that.
Auto is completely off when Overscan is disabled, H Size is set to 1, and Screen Format is set to Full.
In any combination of those settings being toggled Pixel Orbiter when set to Auto will be active.

Whereas with Pixel Orbiter toggled to On it will function all the time.

To more aggressively 'reduce' IR, I would recommend considering having PO set to On, Overscan set to On, H Size set to 2, and Screen Format to Just.
*With H Size it will be stretching the picture horizontally and I prefer it set to 1 = off.

Best regards,
KvE

Wow, this is some amazing information but I'm entirely confused. I believe that I use the overscan off, screen format full, and H set to 1 and have my pixel orbiter on auto. Thus it seems my pixel orbiter has never worked. If I was to keep my settings and turn my pixel orbiter to on, would the pixel orbiter work? Thanks.
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post #15905 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood88 View Post
Wow, this is some amazing information but I'm entirely confused. I believe that I use the overscan off, screen format full, and H set to 1 and have my pixel orbiter on auto. Thus it seems my pixel orbiter has never worked. If I was to keep my settings and turn my pixel orbiter to on, would the pixel orbiter work? Thanks.
Yes, setting Pixel Orbiter to Auto is basically turning it off. Setting it to On, will give you more safe playing time but will mostly just blur whatever is retained. Remember to always play HUD games in Night mode or low contrast and/or try to play games with no HUD.
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post #15906 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 11:25 AM
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Yes, setting Pixel Orbiter to Auto is basically turning it off. Setting it to On, will give you more safe playing time but will mostly just blur whatever is retained. Remember to always play HUD games in Night mode or low contrast and/or try to play games with no HUD.

What is night mode? Is 50 contrast too high? I remember trying to play Destiny in 30 contrast and it was almost impossible to see what was going on. I can't believe all this time I thought my pixel orbiter was working for me but it wasn't. Can't wait to get home to switch it on. It might fix the 1% of the image retention caused by Destiny before I stopped playing it.
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post #15907 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 11:26 AM
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Would there be any interest in buying a used VT60? I may be getting a new set in a few weeks (still not sure yet), and if I do, I'll have my 65-inch set up for sale. I'm located about an hour-ish (depending on traffic) south of Nashville, TN if anyone is somewhat close.
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post #15908 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 12:40 PM
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Does anyone know the best settings for input lag reduction beside the normal game mode on and what the actual input lag is at its best setting. I've heard numbers ranging from 40 to 80.
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post #15909 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 12:40 PM
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You could just toggle Screen Format to Just with Pixel Orbiter set to Auto and that works fine for me with gaming.

Best regards,
KvE

Politics is like a corral, no matter where you are you'll always be shovelling it.

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post #15910 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMFDMvsEnya View Post
You could just toggle Screen Format to Just with Pixel Orbiter set to Auto and that works fine for me with gaming.

Best regards,
KvE

In the description that I quoted earlier, I get the impression that auto pixel orbiter only activates if there is a paused screen. Am I correct?

Also what does" just" screen format mean. How is it better then "full"
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post #15911 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood88 View Post
What is night mode? Is 50 contrast too high? I remember trying to play Destiny in 30 contrast and it was almost impossible to see what was going on. I can't believe all this time I thought my pixel orbiter was working for me but it wasn't. Can't wait to get home to switch it on. It might fix the 1% of the image retention caused by Destiny before I stopped playing it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood88 View Post
In the description that I quoted earlier, I get the impression that auto pixel orbiter only activates if there is a paused screen. Am I correct?

Also what does" just" screen format mean. How is it better then "full"
Night mode as in, if you have any modes calibrated for night/cinema, the contrast should be around 60 and that should be OK for IR. I game with the lights off (except a couple of lights behind the TV) so I can play in Night mode/low contrast without losing details in dark areas.

Maybe Pixel Orbiter should work on Auto with a paused screen, but Panasonic's "Auto" setting has proved to be unreliable in more than one instance so stick with On.

The JUST format stretches the picture a bit, more vertically than horizontally. I don't see how it's any better than Full.

Changing any of the settings like Screen Format, H size or Overscan will not get you 1:1 pixel mapping and 16:9 aspect ratio (Full 1920x1080 resolution), so you're better off setting Pixel Orbiter to On and just leaving it there. Just know that while the "pixel shift" happens (1-2 seconds), you might notice ghosting especially on red on white text. I haven't seen any ghosting on video/film with it on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 22L View Post
Does anyone know the best settings for input lag reduction beside the normal game mode on and what the actual input lag is at its best setting. I've heard numbers ranging from 40 to 80.
Game mode OFF = ~70ms
Game mode ON = ~40ms

Minimum of 40ms lag will always be there. Do you think you have way more lag than the minimum, have you tested it online? What is your source (PC, console) and input device (keyboard+mouse, controller)?

Last edited by BldyBg; 03-24-2015 at 04:39 PM.
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post #15912 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 05:17 PM
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I played COD4 last night. I've always had a 2 to 1 K/D ratio. When I got an ST60 a couple of months ago I would end up mid pack and about a 1 to 1 K/D.

Last night I was back up to 2 to 1 or better. I had a couple of games in the mid 20 kills and 4 deaths, so the VT is much better than the ST.

I am using an xbox.

From what I have read a lag of 40ms on a plasma is much better than a 40ms on an LED due to how your eyes and brain sees and reads the plasma vs the LED. There are a couple of cool videos on YouTube showing in slow motion why. Makes sense after you see how a plasma vs LED picture is displayed.

I'd say that's probably true because it felt plenty fast last night. Better than a Vizio E600 (mid 30ms) I was using after I sold the ST and picked up the VT.
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post #15913 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood88 View Post
In the description that I quoted earlier, I get the impression that auto pixel orbiter only activates if there is a paused screen. Am I correct?

Also what does" just" screen format mean. How is it better then "full"
SF: Full is suppose to equate to 1:1 Pixel display whereas with Just the image has a small degree of overscan applied. 5-10%

As I described in the first post you quoted Pixel Orbiter set to Auto enables the actual orbiting when any other screen attribute is changed.

The reason why I have my settings as such ensures that I get 1:1 pixel rendering when I have Screen Format set to Full but when I want to avoid possible issues with image retention the only variable I have to change is Screen Format to Just.

When Pixel Orbiter is On it will do this with all signals all the time. Auto with my 1:1 pixel settings will not turn on even with still images, unless again SF is set to Just.


Spoiler!


Best regards,
KvE

Politics is like a corral, no matter where you are you'll always be shovelling it.

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post #15914 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22L View Post
I played COD4 last night. I've always had a 2 to 1 K/D ratio. When I got an ST60 a couple of months ago I would end up mid pack and about a 1 to 1 K/D.

Last night I was back up to 2 to 1 or better. I had a couple of games in the mid 20 kills and 4 deaths, so the VT is much better than the ST.

I am using an xbox.

From what I have read a lag of 40ms on a plasma is much better than a 40ms on an LED due to how your eyes and brain sees and reads the plasma vs the LED. There are a couple of cool videos on YouTube showing in slow motion why. Makes sense after you see how a plasma vs LED picture is displayed.

I'd say that's probably true because it felt plenty fast last night. Better than a Vizio E600 (mid 30ms) I was using after I sold the ST and picked up the VT.
I didn't know about the 40ms LED vs Plasma thing. That's cool to know. Just FYI, Game Mode ON with ST60 = Game Mode OFF with VT60 in terms of latency, which is why you see an improvement in K/D ratio with Game Mode ON with the VT60.
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post #15915 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 06:16 PM
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I'll check later for the videos. It pretty interesting.
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post #15916 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 07:09 PM
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Here is the video I was referring to. You can see how an LCD refreshes the screen from the top to the bottom so when they are measuring input lag the equipment picks up the new image when only half the image is on the screen but your brain doesn't put the picture together until the entire picture is displayed. So basically, the theory is a 30ms refresh of an LCD is more like 60ms.

Plasmas on the other hand refresh the entire picture at once, so 40ms is an actual 40ms. Plus there is a theory that your eyes and brain can see the picture as it is beginning to be displayed before the equipment picks up the image. Plasmas pictures fade in and your brain can see and decipher images before the image is strong enough for the measuring equipment picks up the picture.

I'm nor sure at all about either one of these theories, but there is something going on. I have heard from several online sources that a plasma at about 30 or 40ms fells much better than LCD's with "less" input lag. Many serious gamers will play on nothing but an S60 or ST50 vs. LCD's with 15 or 20ms. better lag times.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=nCHgmCxGEzY
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post #15917 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22L View Post
I played COD4 last night. I've always had a 2 to 1 K/D ratio. When I got an ST60 a couple of months ago I would end up mid pack and about a 1 to 1 K/D.

Last night I was back up to 2 to 1 or better. I had a couple of games in the mid 20 kills and 4 deaths, so the VT is much better than the ST.

I am using an xbox.

From what I have read a lag of 40ms on a plasma is much better than a 40ms on an LED due to how your eyes and brain sees and reads the plasma vs the LED. There are a couple of cool videos on YouTube showing in slow motion why. Makes sense after you see how a plasma vs LED picture is displayed.

I'd say that's probably true because it felt plenty fast last night. Better than a Vizio E600 (mid 30ms) I was using after I sold the ST and picked up the VT.

Cnet did their first ever input lag test on the 2013 model tvs. The ST was An amazing tv for the money, until they did the input lag test. It's one of the reasons I spent a little more for the VT. Do a google search for the cnet 2013 input lag test.
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post #15918 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 08:23 PM
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Yeah, I knew about the input lag before I bought it, but the price I payed, I couldn't pass it up. $575 with 1000 hours on it.

So I bought it and kept my eyes open for a VT which I finally found and got a great deal on.

So far I love it. A 65 inch VT is really something special. Very happy with my purchase.
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post #15919 of 15923 Old 03-24-2015, 11:48 PM
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I'm wondering if someone here knows. I have a Harmony One remote. How do I get the VT60 to change the picture mode setting to Standard or any other setting when I change from Cable, to DVD to video games? Is there a way to change the picture mode depending on what activity I choose?

Or do I have to continue to go into the menu and manually change the picture mode when I choose a new activity?
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post #15920 of 15923 Old 03-25-2015, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22L View Post
I'm wondering if someone here knows. I have a Harmony One remote. How do I get the VT60 to change the picture mode setting to Standard or any other setting when I change from Cable, to DVD to video games? Is there a way to change the picture mode depending on what activity I choose?

Or do I have to continue to go into the menu and manually change the picture mode when I choose a new activity?
As far as I know, there are no discrete codes for that so you have to do it manually every time. The best I could come up with were "Sequence" macros that go one picture mode up or one down, but I have to call them manually (I set buttons for them in each activity) because your current picture mode depends on what you last did, which the remote doesn't know.

Maybe the best is to set up "TV menu" , "TV up", "TV down", etc, buttons put on the front page of every activity. It will save you some time as you won't need to do the multiple taps required to access your TV from the Harmony One.
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post #15921 of 15923 Old 03-26-2015, 11:26 AM
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Panasonic service is coming home to me to exchange the main board due to the green flashes.... :-)
Ive got the main board replaced today! :-)
And so far no more green flashes!...
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post #15922 of 15923 Old Yesterday, 08:34 AM
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Soooooo I'm watching TV on WMC right now and Im noticing that al the channels have a flicker to it almost. Like its getting brighter hten darker really quickly....

Also When on the desktop if i'm on a dark background and move a white background from taking up no space on the screeen to all of th space, at some point it dims the screen. Is that normal?
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post #15923 of 15923 Old Today, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by pr3dict View Post
Soooooo I'm watching TV on WMC right now and Im noticing that al the channels have a flicker to it almost. Like its getting brighter hten darker really quickly....

Also When on the desktop if i'm on a dark background and move a white background from taking up no space on the screeen to all of th space, at some point it dims the screen. Is that normal?
That's the ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter) kicking in. From what I know, it's meant to reduce power usage/heat output. It's to be expected with plasmas and some other types of screens as well. It can be made less noticeable by calibrating your set and/or trying dimmer picture modes like Cinema, Home Theather.
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