F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 103 - AVS Forum
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post #3061 of 3081 Old 11-22-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
So I did another calibration.
Aiming for 2.25 gamma?
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post #3062 of 3081 Old 11-22-2014, 05:06 PM
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EDID service menu default setting?

Hey, I was going through the service menu for my 64F8500 to try to see the usage hours, and I accidentally went into the EDID menu and changed one of the settings. I think EDID defaults to "OFF", correct? That's what I put it back to after I think I accidentally set it to "ON". I just want to make sure I didn't mess anything up without having to do a factory reset.


Thanks in advance!
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post #3063 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 12:39 AM
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I'm getting the 60" in three days. I will be playing PS4 quite a bit. Do you guys have any advice for me regarding setting or anything in general?
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post #3064 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philwojo View Post
OK, got my set yesterday. I purchased it from Value Electronics and had them do the calibration on it. The CAL was either done by Kevin Miller or D-Nice, not sure which one. I don't have the report yet, but here are the settings from the TV, and I have the PN60F8500AFXZA, MFG date = May 2013, FW = 1104.

2D Picture Modes - Movie / CAL-DAY
Cell Light = 13 / 20
Contrast = 95 / 90
Brightness = 46 / 46
Sharpness = 0 / 0
Color = 50 / 50
Tint = 50/50 - 50/50

Color Tone - Warm2 for all modes
File Mode = Auto2 for all modes
Black optimizer - Dark Room for all modes
Everything else = off

Flesh Tone = 0/0
Gamma = 0/0
Everything else = off

Color Space is Custom for Movie and Cal-DAY
Red - 53, 5, 5
Green - 38, 57,10
Blue - 0, 3, 61
Yellow - 52, 52, 11
Cyan - 36, 56, 54
Magenta - 49, 7, 57

White Balance (2 point)
27, 25, 27, 27, 25, 30 / 27, 25, 26, 26, 25, 30

White Balance (10 Point)
1 = -3, -1, -2 / 1, 3, 3
2 = -5, -4, -4 / 1, 0, 0
3 = -2, -1, -2 / 4, 3, 6
4 = -6, -3, -2 / -1, 0, -1
5 = -1, 0 , -2 / 6, 3, 8
6 = 4, -1, 1 / 9, 9, 0
7 = 8, 4, 2 / 0, 0, 0
8 = 6, 1, 0 / 0, 0, 0
9 = 0, 0, 0 / 0, 0, 0
10 = 10, 0, 0 / 0, 0, 0

3D Picture Mode - Movie / CAL-DAY

Cell Light = 20 / 20
Contrast = 100 / 90
Brightness = 45 / 45
Sharpness = 20 / 0
Color = 50 / 50
Tint = All modes 50/50

Color Tone = Warm2 for all modes
Everything else = off

Flesh tone = 0 for all modes
Gamma = ?? forgot to look
Balck Tone: = Dark
Everything else is off

Color Space is AUTO for all modes

White Balance (2 point)
All 25's for all modes.

Hope this helps someone out, and if I get more information from the reports I will post that as well once I get them.

Thanks,
Phil

(I have edited this post to remove the "CAL-NIGHT" settings as they were not done. "MOVIE" mode was used for night time viewing.)
Thanks for the settings. This made a big difference to my display. The results are a clearer picture but with better blacks.

After I input the these settings I put on a bluray rip of X-Men Days of Future Past. For those that haven't seen this film. The opening battle scene is epic and takes place in a dark lit factory type setting. Right away I could tell the blacks were even more darker yet the color scheme was richer. I could see details in the dark shadows now.

I really like these settings and will use them for a while. The picture quality on my display is amazing now!

Samsung 60 PN60F8500
Harman Kardon AVR1600
Mirage Unitheater soundbar
Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 450'S
Dayton Audio SUB-1200 12"
Sennheiser HDR 170
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post #3065 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GASKA View Post
I'm getting the 60" in three days. I will be playing PS4 quite a bit. Do you guys have any advice for me regarding setting or anything in general?
+1 But I've had my 60 inch since day one.
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post #3066 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
Cell light and contrast control the brightness of peak white. So it's a bit complicated. Especially when you consider that I can't remember what all the test patterns are called.


You set contrast to the highest it can go without clipping white. On my 51 inch that's around 95 or 96. There are multiple test patterns that do this...the one I use has flashing white bars up to level 253. Disney WoW uses flashing stars. You do it without the meter (by sight).


After setting contrast I set cell light by loading up a 100% white window and take a real time reading in HCFR. I adjust the cell light until the luminance of white is where I want it to be (I usually target 40 ftL or thereabouts. Each step adds or subtracts about 3 ftL in my experience. You have to check this again after adjusting grayscale.


Usually I'm at about 95 or 96 contrast and 15-16 cell light. I watch with a table lamp on or in the dark with a bias light.

I find that even at 100 the contrast is still ok, doesn't seem to be clipping using the WOW pattern and honestly I don't notice any difference between 100 and say 95, other than the whites looking more gray overall, but use the same bars at the end of the pattern all the way to 100.

I was actually told in another thread I made that 100 of contrast and 20 for cell light is fine and to leave it at that, but I don't ever see anyone using those. I do like a brighter picture so Im ok with that, but can I still get an accurate greyscale and gamma with those settings?
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post #3067 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HX_Guy View Post
I find that even at 100 the contrast is still ok, doesn't seem to be clipping using the WOW pattern and honestly I don't notice any difference between 100 and say 95, other than the whites looking more gray overall, but use the same bars at the end of the pattern all the way to 100.

I was actually told in another thread I made that 100 of contrast and 20 for cell light is fine and to leave it at that, but I don't ever see anyone using those. I do like a brighter picture so Im ok with that, but can I still get an accurate greyscale and gamma with those settings?
i seem to recall one of the pro calibrators recommended samsung plasmas be left with a contrast of 95. i'm pretty sure that's why most ppl use that value.

like you, i don't see anything wrong with 100, and i find it easier to calibrate at 100 usually. BUT, leaving it at 95 does have some advantages. while it's a little trickier to get the 10pt calibration done, when you do, you can ensure 6500k color temp and uniform greyscale up PAST 100%. if you look at the color clipping patterns, i imagine you'll see a difference there as well. with contrast at 100, it's more difficult to get all colors flashing up to 235.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #3068 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GASKA View Post
I'm getting the 60" in three days. I will be playing PS4 quite a bit. Do you guys have any advice for me regarding setting or anything in general?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjoexxl View Post
+1 But I've had my 60 inch since day one.
the only special recommendation i would make is to use either game mode of pc mode when gaming.

other wise there's really nothing special about the ps4. like all sources, you want as close to reference as possible, and make sure you've matched the HDMI black level setting with the RGB color setting on the ps4. Normal is full range, and low is limited.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #3069 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
i seem to recall one of the pro calibrators recommended samsung plasmas be left with a contrast of 95. i'm pretty sure that's why most ppl use that value.

like you, i don't see anything wrong with 100, and i find it easier to calibrate at 100 usually. BUT, leaving it at 95 does have some advantages. while it's a little trickier to get the 10pt calibration done, when you do, you can ensure 6500k color temp and uniform greyscale up PAST 100%. if you look at the color clipping patterns, i imagine you'll see a difference there as well. with contrast at 100, it's more difficult to get all colors flashing up to 235.

I played around with 100 contrast today and I will agree that it makes dialing in the grayscale A LOT easier. And I don't understand what the color clipping patterns are telling me anyways.
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post #3070 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 07:36 PM
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Interesting...how come it makes dailing in the greyscale easier? (I do t have my meter yet so haven't actually been able to mess with this stuff myself).

Also does the cell light have any effect on the greyscale and/or gamma?
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post #3071 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HX_Guy View Post
Interesting...how come it makes dailing in the greyscale easier? (I do t have my meter yet so haven't actually been able to mess with this stuff myself).

Also does the cell light have any effect on the greyscale and/or gamma?
when contrast is at 100, the 10pt controls actually line up with the 10% increment patterns. when you reduce the contrast, the points shift. so instead of pt8 controlling 80% grey, it's actually like 88%. what ends up happening(to me at least) is that i end up over-correcting a lot of things, and end up with a lot of error between points.

i did notice changing cell light affected greyscale. it's not huge, but if you're doing your own calibration, it's worth re-adjusting after changing cell light. gamma was definitely affected.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
Control: Harmony One
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post #3072 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 07:57 PM
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Is there a way to determine the best brightness of gray bars for 4:3 material? Windows media center lets me pick 10-90% grey instead of black.
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post #3073 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 08:37 PM
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Okay...so here's an odd question for my fellow F8500 owners.


When looking at the black level test pattern used for setting Brightness ('above 17 should be flashing') I get really close to the set. MOST of the time I can see 17 and above flashing with what I would describe as green dithering. But with some combinations of settings 17 will flash with fainter red dithering while 18 and above have the normal green dithering I'm used to. If I turn the brightness up one more notch when this happens 17 will dither green as well. 16 stays totally black while all this is going on (unless I REALLY crank the brightness to an incorrect level). If it matters black corrector is set to dark room.


So what is the proper setting? 17 technically IS flashing when the red dithering appears. And if I move back to my normal seating position I can still see it (or at least think I do...those patterns get a bit wonky for me when I move away from them).
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post #3074 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
when contrast is at 100, the 10pt controls actually line up with the 10% increment patterns. when you reduce the contrast, the points shift. so instead of pt8 controlling 80% grey, it's actually like 88%. what ends up happening(to me at least) is that i end up over-correcting a lot of things, and end up with a lot of error between points.

i did notice changing cell light affected greyscale. it's not huge, but if you're doing your own calibration, it's worth re-adjusting after changing cell light. gamma was definitely affected.
So cell light affects both, but can you still get the correct calibrated settings for greyscale and gamma with cell light at 20?
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post #3075 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
Okay...so here's an odd question for my fellow F8500 owners.
Using the slide you mention, set brightness one notch down from the whole screen displaying green sparkles and you should still see sparkles at 17. For my 51" brightness is set to 48. At 49 I see the whole screen display green sparkles. It's best to do it first on pretty much default settings.

Last edited by nipalikewalnuts; Yesterday at 09:10 PM.
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post #3076 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by HX_Guy View Post
So cell light affects both, but can you still get the correct calibrated settings for greyscale and gamma with cell light at 20?
I would say yes other than many would think something that bright is not 'properly calibrated'.
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post #3077 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I would say yes other than many would think something that bright is not 'properly calibrated'.
My main goal is to get the colors correct as that's what I'm always wondering if they look like they should.
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post #3078 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nipalikewalnuts View Post
Using the slide you mention, set brightness one notch down from the whole screen displaying green sparkles and you should still see sparkles at 17. For my 51" brightness is set to 48. At 49 I see the whole screen display green sparkles. It's best to do it first on pretty much default settings.

Lost me a little bit there. I booted up the slide you mention and my whole screen never dithers green even if I turn Black Optimizer off. Only the flashing bars dither at all. Non flashing areas are BLACK. My current brightness on my 51 inch is 47. With this 17 barely flashes with red sparkles. At 48 brightness all bars above 17 flash with similar green dithering. Cinema smooth is also on. My settings are attached (Gamma is BT.1886 with 2.4 effective). I may just need to watch for black crush. Look fine so far.
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post #3079 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by HX_Guy View Post
My main goal is to get the colors correct as that's what I'm always wondering if they look like they should.

I don't think that will be a problem. Use Movie mode and Warm 2 once you get your meter. Warm 2 is a bit too warm out of the box IMO but will calibrate nicely.
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post #3080 of 3081 Old Yesterday, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
when contrast is at 100, the 10pt controls actually line up with the 10% increment patterns. when you reduce the contrast, the points shift. so instead of pt8 controlling 80% grey, it's actually like 88%. what ends up happening(to me at least) is that i end up over-correcting a lot of things, and end up with a lot of error between points.

i did notice changing cell light affected greyscale. it's not huge, but if you're doing your own calibration, it's worth re-adjusting after changing cell light. gamma was definitely affected.
Chad B has posted a terrific slide for determining where the 10 point controls are shifted. I've attached his slide (converted from png to jpg format)



Simply display the slide and vary the green in the 10 point control to see the area where it is actually making a change.

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