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post #3331 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Chingas View Post
Thanks for this. Just a couple of questions. This is for a 60 inch tv. Would putting these settings on a 51 inch be a bad idea? And does it matter that this is an older firmware?

Thanks.
fw shouldn't matter. i've entered 60" calibrations into my 64" and thought it was an improvement over stock. i also measured the results once i got my meter and they were not that great either. but that's going to be the case regardless.

as was said, plug em in. you'll either like it or not. no harm in trying

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post #3332 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Chingas View Post
Thanks for this. Just a couple of questions. This is for a 60 inch tv. Would putting these settings on a 51 inch be a bad idea? And does it matter that this is an older firmware?

Thanks.
Everything matters.

Those settings should be used as a starting point and are in no way intended to replace an individual calibration on your display.

There are a lot of variances from panel to panel of the same size, not to mention between difference sizes.

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post #3333 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 04:31 AM
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Anyone else who owns a F8500 and does their own calibration/tinkering have an eye on the difficulty in calibrating the LG OLEDs thinking that you don't want any part of that until its easier to calibrate?

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post #3334 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 04:58 AM
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Morning

Does anybody have the calibration settings from PIEANDCHIPS for the 51".

Looked everywhere seemed to have been removed these were fantastic settings :-(

pieandchips please pm me details

every other calibration is so bright its giving me headaches!

Last edited by teachsac; 12-11-2014 at 06:52 AM. Reason: Post padding
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post #3335 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneilscott View Post
Morning

Does anybody have the calibration settings from PIEANDCHIPS for the 51".

Looked everywhere seemed to have been removed these were fantastic settings :-(

pieandchips please pm me details

every other calibration is so bright its giving me headaches!
How do you know his settings were "fantastic"? Looks like you just joined the AVS forums. I thought his settings were too dim/subdued for my tastes. Like a veil over the screen. I see you prefer a more dim display. I think Fierce_GT has calibrations with low ftL outputs.
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post #3336 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 08:54 AM
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Why not just put it in movie mode, warm 1 temp, use a calibration disc to calibrate contrast, black level (Brightness), color, tint & Sharpness, then adjust cell light for comfort and call it a day.

Probably a lot better than using someone else's settings, which is hit or miss.

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post #3337 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 09:22 AM
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thanks for coming back to me dan and dss

I used his settings when i first had the TV and enjoyed them but since somebody has played in the menu and I have lost them.

All the settings available on here are so bright i cant keep looking at the screen it burns the back of my eyes!!!

Fierce_gt anything you recommend
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post #3338 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
personally, i would never use 'bright room'. if you want the extra brightness, use auto. i don't know exactly how to describe it, it's not like dynamic contrast, but it kinda is. i think a better way to think about it, is the affect it has on ABL behaviour. i believe that what's happening is more along the lines of what happens with ABL. except that it allows the panel to remain brighter(reduces abl?) when there's bright scenes, and lowers MLL (increases abl?)when there's dark scenes. again, i'm not really sure if this is true, but it's the best way i can describe what's happening. if you LOOK for it, you can sometimes see the panel get darker, but i've never noticed it get brighter. this is why i kind of think the increase brightness is due to abl not kicking in as much, as opposed to something else 'turning on'. the improved black level is definitely something engaging though. supposedly a change in the way the panel is driven that allows for blacker blacks as long as the average APL is low.

i can't say what's 'best' though. just that i've done all my calibrations with BO set to dark room, and i think they look good with real content so far
I will probably use Auto. I like the extra brightness. I'll see if I can figure out a test to determine under what conditions the extra brightness kicks in.

It makes a big difference which Black Optimizer setting you use for calibration, especially to gamma. I had thought this was a setting I could play with after calibration.

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post #3339 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneilscott View Post
thanks for coming back to me dan and dss

I used his settings when i first had the TV and enjoyed them but since somebody has played in the menu and I have lost them.

All the settings available on here are so bright i cant keep looking at the screen it burns the back of my eyes!!!

Fierce_gt anything you recommend
if you feel like searching back a few pages, I've posted a few calibrations from mine. the last one I did however was after doing a panel tweak, so it's unlikely to work out well for another panel, but before that I've posted a few that ranged from 32ftl to 37ftl. I've tried reducing the brightness by turning on eco mode, reducing cell light, and reducing contrast. I found that reducing cell light is the easiest to deal with, but eco mode might have an advantage is reducing ABL(basically it looks abl is ALWAYS on, so you hardly notice any dimming).


EDIT: here's some links to calibrations I've posted(I think the older ones are not so great for others, I had my PC's video card affecting things like brightness too much)
F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....
F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....
F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....
F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....
F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....
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post #3340 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneilscott View Post
Morning

Does anybody have the calibration settings from PIEANDCHIPS for the 51".

Looked everywhere seemed to have been removed these were fantastic settings :-(

pieandchips please pm me details

every other calibration is so bright its giving me headaches!
I think I have them and will check. I am using a 51" and my current settings are very close. It's possible some of the panels do look bright with the same settings. Using these until the set has more hours and can get a pro-cal.
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post #3341 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 12:43 PM
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firtce gt thank you very much! would you recommend turning eco mode off?

jimdish yes anything you have as my panel is 51" thank you!
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post #3342 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneilscott View Post
Does anybody have the calibration settings from PIEANDCHIPS for the 51".
My sig "potentially useful" link will take you to a web site where you will find

PieAndChipsCalibratedSettingsPN51F8500
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post #3343 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneilscott View Post
firtce gt thank you very much! would you recommend turning eco mode off?

jimdish yes anything you have as my panel is 51" thank you!
i had eco mode set to low for awhile, with contrast at 100 and cell light at 20. i believe it gave me around 32ftl peak luminance. i actually quite liked it, but you have very limited control with peak luminance. i mean, you could still turn down cell light and get a dimmer image, but more likely you might want 34 or 35ftl, and there's no way to really do that.

what i suggest now is to use cell light to limited brightness(leave eco mode off). i believe, from what i've read, lowering the cell light affects ABL behaviour. perhaps making it 'kick in' sooner, or more aggressively. i'm not totally sure, but i personally haven't noticed 'abl' in content ever, so i think it gets the job done, and it's the easiest to work with.

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post #3344 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 06:13 PM
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I was able to get below 30ftL with cell light only but personally I think it sucks the life out of this TV. I much prefer rolling with 35-40 ftL and using a bias light if necessary.
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post #3345 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 06:29 PM
 
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I was able to get below 30ftL with cell light only but personally I think it sucks the life out of this TV. I much prefer rolling with 35-40 ftL and using a bias light if necessary.
+1

You really don't need to watch this TV in the dark or dimly lit room with the correct settings.
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post #3346 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I was able to get below 30ftL with cell light only but personally I think it sucks the life out of this TV. I much prefer rolling with 35-40 ftL and using a bias light if necessary.
the BEST way to get a more comfortable dark room viewing experience, is to adjust the VS and VScan voltages on the back panel.

while it helps lower MLL, it also reduces the peak output. with my voltages all the way down(not that i recommend this for others, it just works for me), i lowered my MLL from .011-.013cd/m2 to .006-.008cd/m2. and now with cell light at 20 and contrast 100, the panel is around 40ftl, instead of over 50. i have contrast at 95, and cell light at 18, and have a very comfortable 32ftl, but still have an ANSI contrast over 6000:1 and on/off contrast close to 15000:1. there is still tons of 'pop' and depth to the image, it's just not as blinding anymore.

it actually makes me wonder a bit if turning up the voltages would be an acceptable way to increase the brightness. if ppl wanted to get those 80ftl calibrated, this might be a way to do it. i don't want to be the person to try though, especially considering i don't want my display that bright.

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post #3347 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 08:46 PM
 
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I think the point AMartin56 is trying to make is that because the panel can go very comfortably brighter than traditional PDPs that it's worth considering.

I for one have changed my viewing habits and watch in a brighter room with low 40's fL. The TV shines (literally) working this way. Contrast gets a nice lift as the difference between bright and dark is greater. Black levels don't play as big a part either.
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post #3348 of 3478 Old 12-11-2014, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nipalikewalnuts View Post
I think the point AMartin56 is trying to make is that because the panel can go very comfortably brighter than traditional PDPs that it's worth considering.

I for one have changed my viewing habits and watch in a brighter room with low 40's fL. The TV shines (literally) working this way. Contrast gets a nice lift as the difference between bright and dark is greater. Black levels don't play as big a part either.
i can't seem to avoid eye strain. i've done 35-40ftl calibrations and just couldn't 'handle' it. for my game mode i'm around 47ftl i think.

i certainly see the appeal, it looks very impressive at first. but just like comparing a plasma next to an led, i feel it's an illusion. given my eyes proper time to adjust, there's a lot more depth, and contrast in my 32ftl calibration i have right now than i ever got with a ~50ftl calibration before.

if i wanted to watch tv in a bright room, i wouldn't have put so much effort into getting an amazing plasma. i just prefer to watch in the dark/dim room, and i want a display that allows me to watch the way i want to watch.

for my needs, lowering MLL is always going to be preferred over increasing peak luminance. with the tweaks, i'm able to get the same on/off contrast ratio, and BETTER ansi CR than i was with a 50ftl peak luminance pre-tweak. in essense, i'm getting just as much 'pop', but i'm getting it by improving my black levels instead. it's an obvious win for me, since i was 'unable' to tolerate anything over 35ftl anyway. so compared to what i was getting pre-tweak, i actually doubled the ansi contrast, and improved on/off by about 40%!

now having said all that, the fact the f8500 is capable of going much brighter is still something i'm pleased with. i tend to use my stuff for a LONG time, and before i get rid of the tv i expect it will end up in the living room, or a bed room, or who knows where. i simply don't like getting rid of stuff that still works, so i'll find a place for it even if i upgrade to something else in the future. and the versatility of this display is second to none imo. if i put it in the living room, it'll be the best tv i've ever had in my living room. it's already the best tv i've had in my theater. somehow i don't think i'd be as excited to see the vt60 next to a bay window in the living room 5yrs from now...

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Last edited by fierce_gt; 12-11-2014 at 11:03 PM.
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post #3349 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 02:18 AM
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is to adjust the VS and VScan voltages on the back panel.

how do i do this?

I mean the TV looks greta but if i want to watch for a few hours my eyes really hurt and I have to keep refocusing.

The only way i can remove this is to turn the cell light all the way down to 7-8 but then i lose all the pop

Thanks
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post #3350 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 02:23 AM
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yes this is the one!!!!! thanks wantsand warrants

anybody know why with these settings i find the tv much better for viewing ie less eye strain?

Cell Light -13/14 Cell 13 = 35fL / cell 14 = 38fL on a PN51. Adjust level to 'brightness' taste, does not have to be 13 or 14 and will not affect Grayscale or Color Space.
Contrast - 95
Brightness - 47
Sharpness - 5 - Your preference - Low to 0 recommended.
Color - 50
Tint - 50/50

Color Tone - Warm2
Black optimizer - Dark room
Everything else - off

Flesh Tone - 0
Gamma - 0
Everything else - off

Color Space - Custom - Try Auto and compare on a paused image with flesh tones in it. Auto is a little too red on this PN51.
Red 37,10,8
Green 33,46,10
Blue 2,2,45
Yellow 49,49,13
Cyan 34,47,50
Magenta 41,11,49

White Balance (2 point)
23,25,22,24,25,24

White Balance (10 point) - Try disabled and compare on a paused image with shadow detail.
1 -4,-3,-3
2 -1,-1,-1
3 0,2,3
4 -5,-3,-3
5 -5,-2,3
6 -1,0,-1
7 -6,-4,-3
8 -2,0,-2
9 0,0,0
10 -2,3,0
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post #3351 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
the BEST way to get a more comfortable dark room viewing experience, is to adjust the VS and VScan voltages on the back panel.

while it helps lower MLL, it also reduces the peak output. with my voltages all the way down(not that i recommend this for others, it just works for me), i lowered my MLL from .011-.013cd/m2 to .006-.008cd/m2. and now with cell light at 20 and contrast 100, the panel is around 40ftl, instead of over 50. i have contrast at 95, and cell light at 18, and have a very comfortable 32ftl, but still have an ANSI contrast over 6000:1 and on/off contrast close to 15000:1. there is still tons of 'pop' and depth to the image, it's just not as blinding anymore.

it actually makes me wonder a bit if turning up the voltages would be an acceptable way to increase the brightness. if ppl wanted to get those 80ftl calibrated, this might be a way to do it. i don't want to be the person to try though, especially considering i don't want my display that bright.

Fair enough. I'm just not popping the back panel off my F8500. I did it for my old 50ST60 to try to get rid of some pink blob (so it's not like I'm afraid of my multimeter...I got a lot of practice with it collecting/repairing pinball machines) but that Panny was a $600 display model from Best Buy. Besides back then if something happened to my St60 I could go get a F8500...now there isn't much of a fallback position available.


It sounds like my black levels might improve since I consistently measure 0.004 on a black screen and 0.009 the last time I ran ANSI (I don't usually do so because it is what it is at this point so it's a waste of time every time I tweak something) and I'm fine with that. The picture looks good and since the TV is in a guestroom I want quests to be able to enjoy it as well with the lights on if they choose....without having to go into all the details on what setting to select etc.


BTW....this thread moves fast...any comments on my use of a spectro a few pages ago.
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post #3352 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 08:16 AM
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...
BTW....this thread moves fast...any comments on my use of a spectro a few pages ago.
Well, I was curious how the use of a spectro changed your pre-spectro calibration settings (aside from the red and blue gain/offset 1 point correction you described). And was it substantial enough to notice a real visual difference.

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post #3353 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
Well, I was curious how the use of a spectro changed your pre-spectro calibration settings (aside from the red and blue gain/offset 1 point correction you described). And was it substantial enough to notice a real visual difference.
Yeah sounded to me like you wouldn't see much of a difference.

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post #3354 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 11:18 AM
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Never mind. Found it in a search.

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post #3355 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
Fair enough. I'm just not popping the back panel off my F8500. I did it for my old 50ST60 to try to get rid of some pink blob (so it's not like I'm afraid of my multimeter...I got a lot of practice with it collecting/repairing pinball machines) but that Panny was a $600 display model from Best Buy. Besides back then if something happened to my St60 I could go get a F8500...now there isn't much of a fallback position available.


It sounds like my black levels might improve since I consistently measure 0.004 on a black screen and 0.009 the last time I ran ANSI (I don't usually do so because it is what it is at this point so it's a waste of time every time I tweak something) and I'm fine with that. The picture looks good and since the TV is in a guestroom I want quests to be able to enjoy it as well with the lights on if they choose....without having to go into all the details on what setting to select etc.


BTW....this thread moves fast...any comments on my use of a spectro a few pages ago.

either way, 35ftl isn't 'insanely' bright. I'm not suggesting you should go under 30ftl either, even I don't really like that on this tv, for exactly the reason you described. I used to be very frustrated that the tv only had really good contrast when calibrated to a 'bright' peak luminance. it's annoying to lower the brightness and not lower the MLL. so I'm just happy I found a way to lower both at the same time.

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Anybody else on this thread doing a Calman LUTs calibration on their F8500?

Samsung 64F8500, Panasonic 65VT50, Oppo 95, Tivo Roamio for OTA, Dish VIP722, Marantz AV8801 preamp, Rotel Amps, Atlantic Tech 8200 speakers, Seaton Submersive HP, Calman 5, Chromapure, Accupel DVG-5000, VideoForge HDMI II, i1Display3pro, i1pro2, eecolor colorbox.
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post #3357 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 12:49 PM
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post #3358 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
I have done a couple test runs using 5.4 with the eeColor.
Did you see anything odd about black and near black in terms of either being elevated and/or compressed?

Samsung 64F8500, Panasonic 65VT50, Oppo 95, Tivo Roamio for OTA, Dish VIP722, Marantz AV8801 preamp, Rotel Amps, Atlantic Tech 8200 speakers, Seaton Submersive HP, Calman 5, Chromapure, Accupel DVG-5000, VideoForge HDMI II, i1Display3pro, i1pro2, eecolor colorbox.
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post #3359 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 01:17 PM
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No, black and near-black were fine. I didn't have the problems some others are reporting on the spectracal forums.

Set-up was:

display: native color space and pre-calibrated 2pt. gray scale.
meter: i1 Display pro at 0.5 sec integration time, 3 sec LLH.
generator: used both the DVDO TPG and madVR TPG.
profile: set to 2000 patches, limit to reference white.
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post #3360 of 3478 Old 12-12-2014, 02:43 PM
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Hmm, this is a long thread!

I'm one of the people who just got this set on it's way out (51"). I am not incredibly interested in calibrating, and I am actually pretty colorblind anyway. I would like to know if there are some just plain old OOTB recommended settings? This is my first real TV purchase, so not very experienced with tv settings

Thanks guys
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