F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 136 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4051 of 4074 Old 02-21-2015, 12:15 AM
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Is 1206 the last one? I thought I read that the latest one is 1206.1 yet when I try to update, the display returns that I have the latest software?

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post #4052 of 4074 Old 02-21-2015, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post
My 8500 currently has the firmware 1204 and it's asking to update to 1206. Should I update or will I loose black levels in doing so?
You won't lose black levels. You won't lose anything. All it does is update the smart hub. The updates have been basically useless since the early updates in 2013. If you don't use smarthub, then don't bother.
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post #4053 of 4074 Old 02-21-2015, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Is 1206 the last one? I thought I read that the latest one is 1206.1 yet when I try to update, the display returns that I have the latest software?
Yes 1206 should be the latest that is what the firmware asked for.
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post #4054 of 4074 Old 02-21-2015, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by William Kaufman View Post
Just curious--is Pie a professional electrical engineer and/or tv calibrator (same question for Glenee).

Also, I assume that after making these adjustments, if you press picture reset, everything reverts to the factory presets?
Both are DIYers who bought meters and calibrated with help from this thread. Pie's settings benefitted several; dunno about Glenee's settings except that he was pleased with the results.

Yes, selecting RESET puts that mode back to factory. But if you're using Standard, why would you reset Movie (or CalDay\Night)?
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post #4055 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by WPWoodJr View Post
I've hesitated to post this because I keep thinking that I've done something stupid to cause it. But I've checked and re-checked and I've definitely got an issue. The red in my white balance is decreasing over time. I've checked it with an iD3 and a ColorMunki Spectro.
...
Has anyone else had this issue where red decreases significantly?

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post #4056 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by WPWoodJr View Post
Has anyone else had this issue where red decreases significantly?
Can you tell visually that you're losing "reds", or is this disparity showing up only in the software?
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post #4057 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
Can you tell visually that you're losing "reds", or is this disparity showing up only in the software?
Hard to say. I have no reference since its happening on all inputs.

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post #4058 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 11:25 AM
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From what i have read, the red decays faster that the other colors over time. I do recall from the old Pioneer threads, that red would decay the quickest during initial break in period and then only decay slightly faster than the rest of the colors thereafter.
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post #4059 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WPWoodJr View Post
Has anyone else had this issue where red decreases significantly?
The first delta looks like you forgot to apply the plasma edr correction on the 2nd measurement. The 2nd delta could be repeatability, (warm-up, or slightly different offset corrections, or meter placement, ambient light pollution...). Occasionally my video card will also get into a funky state where it's got some default gains loaded so I make sure to clear it prior to calibration runs. Once you have a stable set-up you should see very little display drift over that sort of time period.
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post #4060 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 11:29 AM
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I have over 600 hours on it now. How long is break in?

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post #4061 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
Can you tell visually that you're losing "reds", or is this disparity showing up only in the software?
It does appear that the one input that I have left alone since this started happening is paler on skin tones than the one I have been bumping the red on. I think this is real since I am seeing it on two sensors.

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post #4062 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by WPWoodJr View Post
I have over 600 hours on it now. How long is break in?
Normally a good break in time is about 300 hours before first calibration. A re calibration should be done every 2 years, due to the faster decaying red color. With the Pioneer, the red decayed the fastest during the first 1000 hours. I have also noticed skin tones a little more pale, and I have over 2500 hours. You can bump up skin tone to +1 to see if that helps.
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post #4063 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 01:28 PM
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Actually I found one mistake... Resetting my Standard mode settings also cleared my CMS settings in Movie mode.

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Last edited by WPWoodJr; 02-22-2015 at 01:36 PM.
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post #4064 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 01:42 PM
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But the red is still down in WB.

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post #4065 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WPWoodJr View Post
But the red is still down in WB.

Display a split grayscale. Does it look cyanish(blue green)?

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post #4066 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 02:55 PM
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I have a fairly basic question....I just picked up a 64f8500 new and am using settings that were posted earlier - but I bought the Disney WOW Bluray - can I use it in my PS3 for settings or should I buy a dedicated Bluray player ?
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post #4067 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Display a split grayscale. Does it look cyanish(blue green)?
No, it looks OK...

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post #4068 of 4074 Old 02-22-2015, 07:27 PM
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I bought this TV last November, and I am very happy with the picture but...

I am using the Plex app on Samsung TV Smart Hub to play stuff from my NAS. If I have the lights off at night and play a movie with black bars I get the ghosting or flickering of content into the bottom black bar
Doing a quick search on the forum I know this may be similar to previous discussions on the Black Optimizer setting, but when I try to turn this off, the option is greyed out and set to Auto.
Only when I come out of Smart Hub can I change the setting - It's so frustrating

Any ideas on how to solve this so I can actually watch movies at night ?
If I enabled the additional modes of CAL-NIGHT, CAL-DAY, would the black optimizer setting be set to off or auto ?

Last edited by Ausnew; 02-23-2015 at 04:12 AM.
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post #4069 of 4074 Old 02-23-2015, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhraracing View Post
I have a fairly basic question....I just picked up a 64f8500 new and am using settings that were posted earlier - but I bought the Disney WOW Bluray - can I use it in my PS3 for settings or should I buy a dedicated Bluray player ?
Yes, the PS3 does an excellent job with any BD.

I should probably remain silent here, but as I remember it, the BASIC method using WOW is good, while the "full boogie" method is oversaturated.

Perhaps s/o else will chime in.
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post #4070 of 4074 Old 02-23-2015, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ausnew View Post
I bought this TV last November, and I am very happy with the picture but...

I am using the Plex app on Samsung TV Smart Hub to play stuff from my NAS. If I have the lights off at night and play a movie with black bars I get the ghosting or flickering of content into the bottom black bar
Doing a quick search on the forum I know this may be similar to previous discussions on the Black Optimizer setting, but when I try to turn this off, the option is greyed out and set to Auto.
Only when I come out of Smart Hub can I change the setting - It's so frustrating

Any ideas on how to solve this so I can actually watch movies at night ?
If I enabled the additional modes of CAL-NIGHT, CAL-DAY, would the black optimizer setting be set to off or auto ?
Unfortunately, when using apps via the smart hub, BO will always be set to Auto and can not be changed.
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post #4071 of 4074 Old 02-23-2015, 11:28 AM
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This is getting ridiculous. Yesterday afternoon I, yet again, re-calibrated to address low red in white balance. It had drifted off by 2% or so. After watching the Oscars, it had drifted low again!

Over the last week I have had to raise the red WB gain control on HDMI3 from 33 to 40 to address this issue. I haven't had to change the CMS red setting at all which is odd.

The only thing that has changed since this started happening that I can think of, is that I have been using an HDMI splitter between the PC and the TV so I could split the TiVo output to HDMI1 and HDMI3 on the TV. While removing the splitter doesn't help the red level, I'm wondering if somehow just using it has affected the reds (HDMI1 also has the issue - not sure about HDM12 and HDMI4)? Hard to see how, if bits is truly bits, but I'm at my wit's end!

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post #4072 of 4074 Old 02-23-2015, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by WPWoodJr View Post
This is getting ridiculous. ... Hard to see how, if bits is truly bits, but I'm at my wit's end!
Just wondering if you saw Zoyd's comment to you above. Didn't know if you read his reply.
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post #4073 of 4074 Old 02-23-2015, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WantsNWarrants View Post
Yes, the PS3 does an excellent job with any BD.

I should probably remain silent here, but as I remember it, the BASIC method using WOW is good, while the "full boogie" method is oversaturated.

Perhaps s/o else will chime in.

Ok - thanks - I will try the basic method this weekend.....if I don't like them - I will go back to the settings in this string....
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post #4074 of 4074 Unread Today, 12:41 PM
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Hi there, I have a PN60F8500 and had an issue while trying to reload my calibration settings. It ended up causing some default WB settings in the service menu to be reset and a factory reset is not fixing the issue. I was wonderig if anyone would be willing to help me by sending my pictures of the default service menu settings through a private message. To me it looks like only the ADC/WB settings were effected. The red, green and blue offset and gains have all been reset to 128 and I require the default values.
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