F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 140 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4171 of 4188 Old 08-02-2015, 05:47 PM
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I want your guys take...

I have a display model 64f8500 that I recently purchased from a Magnolia Design Center for 1599.99, it has a tiny bit of burn in and when there is no signal present there is some unevenness in the panels lighting...which is odd for a plasma. Though when a signal is present it is as uniform as can be.

I can sell it and get a buddy of mine's that has no burn in or unevenness...though I am not sure it is even an upgrade at all since my PQ is outstanding. I have yet had a chance to view his set.

Also, there is a guy in my city wanting to get rid of his 65zt60 that is in prestine condition....choices choices.
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post #4172 of 4188 Old 08-07-2015, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
I think I would go a step further, and like bmcn mentioned, after manually(or automatically) updating your tv's firmware to 1204, do a factory reset (Screen Menu > Support > Self Diagnosis > Reset). This will reset the tv's Picture, Sound, Broadcasting, Smarthub, excluding its Network settings, just in case something is corrupted with your tv's settings and before you begin inputting new settings on your floor model 8500.

This is for a floor model that I bought. I was thinking of doing the factory reset first and then connecting to the internet to do firmware updates.. would that be ok too? Also, are firmware and software updates the same thing? Do any of the updates take away the buzzing sound, been alot more noticeable lately. Thanks
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post #4173 of 4188 Old 08-07-2015, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tthhbb View Post
This is for a floor model that I bought. I was thinking of doing the factory reset first and then connecting to the internet to do firmware updates.. would that be ok too? Also, are firmware and software updates the same thing? Do any of the updates take away the buzzing sound, been alot more noticeable lately. Thanks
I recommend reset after update - with all inputs (including any USB device) disconnected.

Yes, Software = Firmware.

No update has ever altered buzz
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post #4174 of 4188 Old 08-18-2015, 06:57 PM
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Hey all.

I've had an F8500 for almost a year now, with some basic calibration done early on but nothing intensive. I've been ripping my bluray collection lately to play back on my PC, because for some reason the TV would not activate film mode while playing directly from my bluray player. Film mode works using madVR and Media Player Classic to play content at 24p. The smoothness of the image is very nice. I've also discovered that I can have PC mode active and the TV will automatically switch to cinema smooth when detecting 24fps content.

However, in complete opposition to how I've seen this set described, film mode kills my black level. Totally black screens are no longer even close to black, and instead are a dull gray. Is this a known issue? If cinema smooth causes this kind of an impact on black levels, it hardly seems worth it.

Cinema smooth off:
http://abload.de/image.php?img=imageicy7h.jpg

Cinema smooth on:
http://abload.de/image.php?img=image8vxd2.jpg

All other settings identical.

I've never been able to get perfect black levels on this display, certainly not as good as my old 9th gen Kuro. If the TV is on but there is no signal, the display is truly black. When a signal passes through, even if the screen should be pure black, it is always lit up a little bit. But the brightness and contrast are both excellent and make HD pictures striking.

You can see in the cinema smooth off picture how dark it gets at its best. It's pretty black, but there is still a noticeable amount of light.

This is the 51" model, if that matters.

Last edited by jzkarap; 08-18-2015 at 07:38 PM.
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post #4175 of 4188 Old 08-18-2015, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jzkarap View Post
Hey all.

I've had an F8500 for almost a year now, ....
With video levels such as your bluray player, black is level 16.

When you switched to using PC levels, black is at level 0, yet your 8500 is calibrated for it to be at 16.

You'll need to recalibrate brightness for that input for PC levels and that'll solve your problem.

If it was the other way around, say you had gone from P.C. levels to bluray player, cable/satellite box, you would have found that your near blacks crushed with no detail.
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post #4176 of 4188 Old 08-18-2015, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JimP View Post
With video levels such as your bluray player, black is level 16.

When you switched to using PC levels, black is at level 0, yet your 8500 is calibrated for it to be at 16.

You'll need to recalibrate brightness for that input for PC levels and that'll solve your problem.

If it was the other way around, say you had gone from P.C. levels to bluray player, cable/satellite box, you would have found that your near blacks crushed with no detail.
I'm sorry, I may not have communicated my problem.

I have calibrated the TV for PC content. I am not sure what you mean by black level 0-16. Both pictures in my last post were the same scene on the same HDMI connection from my PC, taken seconds apart, with the only difference being cinema smooth on and cinema smooth off. The picture is nearly (but not perfectly) black when cinema smooth is turned off. This is the same for both my PC and my bluray player. When cinema smooth is turned on, blacks are no longer black and instead show as gray, like an LCD screen with a uniform light bleed.

No other settings have been changed. Note that despite the TV being set to PC mode, it will not display PC mode when 24hz content is detected. When a film starts, the TV reverts to "normal" calibration.

My settings:
Cell light - 12
Contrast - 94
Brightness - 48 (going back and forth between 48 and 50)
Sharpness - 0
Color - 52
Tint (G/R) - 50/50
Picture Size - Screen Fit

Dynamic Contrast - Off
Black Tone - Off
Flesh Tone - 0
Color Space - Auto
*Have not touched white balance
Gamma - 0

Color Tone - Warm2
Digital clean view - off
MPEG noise filter - off
HDMI black level - normal (grayed out, cannot be adjusted)
Film mode - this is obviously the variable, so both off and on
Motion Judder Canceller - off (but behaves strangely; seems to turn on when cinema smooth is disabled, though the menu still displays it as off, which requires me to turn it on and then back off again)
Black optimizer - dark room

software version 1209

I haven't done any professional calibration.

Last edited by jzkarap; 08-18-2015 at 08:31 PM.
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post #4177 of 4188 Old 08-19-2015, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzkarap View Post
Hey all.

I've had an F8500 for almost a year now, with some basic calibration done early on but nothing intensive. I've been ripping my bluray collection lately to play back on my PC, because for some reason the TV would not activate film mode while playing directly from my bluray player. Film mode works using madVR and Media Player Classic to play content at 24p. The smoothness of the image is very nice. I've also discovered that I can have PC mode active and the TV will automatically switch to cinema smooth when detecting 24fps content.

However, in complete opposition to how I've seen this set described, film mode kills my black level. Totally black screens are no longer even close to black, and instead are a dull gray. Is this a known issue? If cinema smooth causes this kind of an impact on black levels, it hardly seems worth it.

Cinema smooth off:
http://abload.de/image.php?img=imageicy7h.jpg

Cinema smooth on:
http://abload.de/image.php?img=image8vxd2.jpg

All other settings identical.

I've never been able to get perfect black levels on this display, certainly not as good as my old 9th gen Kuro. If the TV is on but there is no signal, the display is truly black. When a signal passes through, even if the screen should be pure black, it is always lit up a little bit. But the brightness and contrast are both excellent and make HD pictures striking.

You can see in the cinema smooth off picture how dark it gets at its best. It's pretty black, but there is still a noticeable amount of light.

This is the 51" model, if that matters.
Do you have a recent firmware? The black level rising with Cinema Smooth turned on was fixed a long time ago.

BTW, you shouldn't be able to enable Film mode unless the TV is getting an interlaced signal. Your PC shouldn't be sending an interlaced signal to it. Cinema Smooth only works when the TV gets 24Hz content. PC mode doesn't work with 24Hz content.
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post #4178 of 4188 Old 08-19-2015, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
Do you have a recent firmware? The black level rising with Cinema Smooth turned on was fixed a long time ago.

BTW, you shouldn't be able to enable Film mode unless the TV is getting an interlaced signal. Your PC shouldn't be sending an interlaced signal to it. Cinema Smooth only works when the TV gets 24Hz content. PC mode doesn't work with 24Hz content.
I have software version 1209, which I believe is the latest. I don't think you're right about film mode only working with an interlaced signal—but you are right about it only working with 24hz content. I'm sorry, as I must still not be explaining my problem clearly enough.

The TV will automatically enter my movie-settings calibration when 24hz content is displayed. I use the madVR plugin for Media Player Classic Home Cinema to display my ripped blurays at 24hz. That's 1080p content at 24hz. This change in refresh rate will automatically "talk" to the TV and tell it to switch from PC mode to my standard movie calibration, with film mode active. You can try this yourself (it will work automatically). This allows you to watch movies from a PC without having to switch into and out of PC input.

It sounds like the brightening with cinema smooth is a known issue. Perhaps it was reintroduced by a recent update?
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post #4179 of 4188 Old 08-19-2015, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jzkarap View Post
Motion Judder Canceller - off (but behaves strangely; seems to turn on when cinema smooth is disabled, though the menu still displays it as off, which requires me to turn it on and then back off again)
That's a known bug which (IMO) Samsung will never fix.
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post #4180 of 4188 Old 08-19-2015, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jzkarap View Post
It sounds like the brightening with cinema smooth is a known issue. Perhaps it was reintroduced by a recent update?
The last update to affect PQ was 1116 (or maybe 1117 - I forget which). Everythihg since has been SmartApps only. Anyone seeing PQ changes following an update needs to run the Reset and then reconfigure the set.
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post #4181 of 4188 Old 08-19-2015, 04:00 PM
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The last update to affect PQ was 1116 (or maybe 1117 - I forget which). Everythihg since has been SmartApps only. Anyone seeing PQ changes following an update needs to run the Reset and then reconfigure the set.
Is this just the Reset Picture option under Picture settings?
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post #4182 of 4188 Old 08-21-2015, 11:47 AM
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Is this just the Reset Picture option under Picture settings?
No. It is the reset in Support -> Self Diagnosis.

If that is needed, all HDMI and USB inputs should be disconnected before - and any obscure settings written down so they can be restored on completion. IIRC the set will power off when the reset finishes.

Virtually all setup is destroyed by this reset so it is as if you are first turning on the set after unboxing.
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post #4183 of 4188 Old 08-21-2015, 01:22 PM
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No. It is the reset in Support -> Self Diagnosis.

If that is needed, all HDMI and USB inputs should be disconnected before - and any obscure settings written down so they can be restored on completion. IIRC the set will power off when the reset finishes.

Virtually all setup is destroyed by this reset so it is as if you are first turning on the set after unboxing.
Thanks, I will try this and report back.
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post #4184 of 4188 Old 08-21-2015, 02:59 PM
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Resetting the set seems like it helped. I'm not watching in a ideal dark room situation, but testing the movie Whiplash I had to boost the gamma to +1 so JK Simmons in a black shirt was not a floating head. Thank you for the info. I'm going to test again when it gets dark to make sure, but for now it looks good.
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post #4185 of 4188 Old 08-21-2015, 06:17 PM
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Resetting the set seems like it helped. I'm not watching in a ideal dark room situation, but testing the movie Whiplash I had to boost the gamma to +1 so JK Simmons in a black shirt was not a floating head. Thank you for the info. I'm going to test again when it gets dark to make sure, but for now it looks good.
The set is darker but is still not black in a dark room. I can live with this but am confused about why it is happening. I thought this set was supposed to match the blacks of a Kuro, but I have found that is not the case.
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post #4186 of 4188 Old 08-22-2015, 07:26 PM
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I thought this set was supposed to match the blacks of a Kuro, but I have found that is not the case.
Definitely NOT equal to the Kuro. If you can afford it, get the set calibrated, which will help, If you are willing to (I'm afraid to), you can adjust a couple of voltages and get better blacks. Search posts by zoyd for instructions.

Without detracting from anybody else, ChadB's calibrations get rave reviews here.
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post #4187 of 4188 Old 08-22-2015, 07:29 PM
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Definitely NOT equal to the Kuro. If you can afford it, get the set calibrated, which will help, If you are willing to (I'm afraid to), you can adjust a couple of voltages and get better blacks. Search posts by zoyd for instructions.

Without detracting from anybody else, ChadB's calibrations get rave reviews here.
Thanks for the help and thanks @ all previous help. I'd love to get the set professionally calibrated but I don't know how reliable local services are. I have seen calibrations costing upwards of $300 that look worse than pictures out of the box, and am afraid of having that experience myself. I don't know how to find someone who really knows what they're doing.

I saw in early reviews of the F8500 that it came very close to the Kuro, so close that its blacks looked totally black to the naked eye. My set does indeed look black if the room is illuminated, but in the dark it never reads as totally black. I expected something like my Kuro's inky darkness, where in a dark room while watching a letterboxed movie I could not tell where the screen ended and the bezels began. Not that the F8500 looks bad, far from it, and in some ways I prefer it to the Kuro. It performs really well in a bright room and is one of the finest sets I've seen for showing off bluray content. Just wish it got a little darker.

Looking into ChadB, I see he's from Ohio, what a coincidence. May be contacting him soon.
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Last edited by jzkarap; 08-22-2015 at 10:04 PM.
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post #4188 of 4188 Old 09-02-2015, 07:26 AM
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So, what settings do you guys use for 3D playback? Obviously, there's a loss of brightness from the glasses. In 2D I use movie and warm2 and dialed it in with my iD3. I saw the 10pt white balance is disabled in 3D mode. I didn't look and see if the CMS worked or not in 3D mode. Can one of the other picture modes be used for 3D viewing to get more brightness, like Vivid, or is it not possible to dial in the white balance and color accurately enough in the other modes that are brighter?
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