F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 142 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4231 of 4324 Old 11-15-2015, 01:10 PM
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What do you guys use for watching sports? standard, dynamic or movie mode?

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Last edited by asere; 11-15-2015 at 05:33 PM.
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post #4232 of 4324 Old 11-15-2015, 03:25 PM
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post #4233 of 4324 Old 11-15-2015, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post
What do you guys use for watching sports? standard, dynamic or movie mode?

On my Chad B calibrated F8500, I use Cal-Day for sports. I use Movie mode for almost everything else, except sometimes when watching in the daytime with a source that needs the extra bump.


Before Chad calibrated it, I used Movie mode for everything, except sports; I used Standard for sports before the calibration.

For sports, I always turn the judder motion canceller to "Smooth", and then put it back to "Off" for everything not sports.
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post #4234 of 4324 Old 11-15-2015, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
On my Chad B calibrated F8500, I use Cal-Day for sports. I use Movie mode for almost everything else, except sometimes when watching in the daytime with a source that needs the extra bump.


Before Chad calibrated it, I used Movie mode for everything, except sports; I used Standard for sports before the calibration.

For sports, I always turn the judder motion canceller to "Smooth", and then put it back to "Off" for everything not sports.
I had a friend tell me while watching football that it looked dark. It was on movie mode. What settings are good for standard mode?

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post #4235 of 4324 Old 11-15-2015, 07:38 PM
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How can a get into the cal day mode in the service menu?

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post #4236 of 4324 Old 11-15-2015, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post
I had a friend tell me while watching football that it looked dark. It was on movie mode. What settings are good for standard mode?

When I used Standard mode for sports, I just used the factory settings. I had dialed in Movie as best I could for non-sports purposes using consumer picture adjustment discs, but I just left Standard at factory, and enjoyed it for sports, and only sports.


You might be able to improve it with some tweaking, but I did not find that necessary for sports.
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post #4237 of 4324 Old 11-16-2015, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
When I used Standard mode for sports, I just used the factory settings. I had dialed in Movie as best I could for non-sports purposes using consumer picture adjustment discs, but I just left Standard at factory, and enjoyed it for sports, and only sports.


You might be able to improve it with some tweaking, but I did not find that necessary for sports.
Thank you. For movie move I used Kevin Millers calibration that I found online. Looks great if you want to try that.

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post #4238 of 4324 Old 11-16-2015, 09:58 AM
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You are right, I have no idea. You'll have to get a probe if you want to answer that sort of question for your display.
Yeah, I will have to get one. Any good recommendations for a beginner?

Going to leave it on auto for now - seems to be a bit more accurate by eye.
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post #4239 of 4324 Old 11-16-2015, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Vincent Praino View Post
Does anyone know how much light it takes for the Black Optimizer = auto to not lower mll? I don't have a meter but keep a few dimmer lamps on in the room when watching at night. No real direct light on the sensor, just ambient - would this be enough to cause auto to raise the mll or does it need to be a light shining directly at it/bright room?

The specific situation is for using the built in apps in which you can't change black optimizer setting.
It needs to be pretty bright. In my room during the daytime with curtains open (but not direct sun) it stays low. I've only gotten it to go to the higher level using a flashlight on the sensor.

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Yeah, I will have to get one. Any good recommendations for a beginner?
The X-rite i1Display Pro is currently the best value probe available.
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post #4240 of 4324 Old 11-17-2015, 06:35 AM
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It needs to be pretty bright. In my room during the daytime with curtains open (but not direct sun) it stays low. I've only gotten it to go to the higher level using a flashlight on the sensor.



The X-rite i1Display Pro is currently the best value probe available.
The way auto functions seems so contradictory to me. I feel like black should always be the darkest and then it should increase light output as needed, not the reverse.

Thanks for the suggestion on the probe - hopefully it is something I can invest in over the holidays. Do you know if you need to have white/color clipping up to 254 to use black optimiser auto/bright room optimally? I've read that it will scale content from 235 to 255 with those modes enabled - not sure if the fact that red is clipping at ~240 for me will cause any issues in the conversion (ie. clipping red 241-254 after the conversion).
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post #4241 of 4324 Old 11-17-2015, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Vincent Praino View Post
The way auto functions seems so contradictory to me. I feel like black should always be the darkest and then it should increase light output as needed, not the reverse.
To get very bright levels without misfires the black level needs to be raised as well but you're right, auto mode is a bit weird.
Quote:
Do you know if you need to have white/color clipping up to 254 to use black optimiser auto/bright room optimally? I've read that it will scale content from 235 to 255 with those modes enabled
The calibration of the white point is different with auto/bright enabled but clipping is not any different.

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post #4242 of 4324 Old 11-17-2015, 07:46 AM
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To get very bright levels without misfires the black level needs to be raised as well but you're right, auto mode is a bit weird.


The calibration of the white point is different with auto/bright enabled but clipping is not any different.
Ahh great, then I shouldn't be worried about red color clipping when using the built in apps as it should be the same as BO Dark Room/off. Aka I'll have red clip at 240 with any of the BO modes. Does auto/bright shift the white point warmer or colder?

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post #4243 of 4324 Old 12-11-2015, 11:08 AM
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Question Oppo HDMI color space w/ 8500, redux?

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Originally Posted by ebefspz View Post
I have been trying to find an answer to how the PN64F8500 does its internal color processing, and I read somewhere that the F8500 works in 4:2:2 (or 4:2:0) YCbCr until it finally converts it to RGB for display. If that's the case, then the ideal color space setting of my Oppo BDP-93 for use with the F8500 should be YCbCr 4:2:2? I have also been unable to get the Spears and Munsil second edition Chroma Range Check to pass using my BDP-93 and F8500.
Apologies, but was this question ever answered? I didn't find an answer through a variety of searches.

Info from the Oppo manual:

Quote:
HDMI Options
HDMI Options is a sub-menu of the Video Setup menu. It allows you to configure some video settings that are unique to the HDMI output. To enter this sub-menu, select HDMI Options from the Video Setup menu. To exit this sub-menu, press the RETURN button or the LEFT ARROW key. The following HDMI options are available:

1. Color Space (HDMI 1) – Allows you to select the color space for the HDMI 1 output. The available options are:

Auto (recommended) – The player checks with the display device to automatically determine what color space to use. If the display device supports YCbCr 4:4:4, then it will be used to avoid extra color space conversion.

RGB Video Level – The HDMI output uses RGB color space and normal signal range suitable for video displays.

RGB PC Level – The HDMI output uses RGB color space and expands the signal range. The expanded signal range is suitable for personal computer (PC) displays. Some TVs are designed to be used as a PC monitor, and expect signal in expanded RGB range when the DVI input is selected. For these displays if the video signal uses the normal RGB range, the black-white contrast will be reduced. You can set the player to use the RGB PC Level output and restore proper contrast.

YCbCr 4:4:4 – The HDMI output uses YCbCr 4:4:4 color space.

YCbCr 4:2:2 – The HDMI output uses YCbCr 4:2:2 color space. Generally this is the color space that is closest to the color space encoded on the discs. (All discs are encoded in YCbCr 4:2:0 color space, and the video decoder decodes it into YCbCr 4:2:2.)
edit: found this post describing a slight issue with the VRS chip and sending 4:2:2, suggesting 4:4:4 is ideal

Last edited by ZoNtO; 12-11-2015 at 12:24 PM. Reason: found answer in other thread
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post #4244 of 4324 Old 12-12-2015, 01:26 PM
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Ok, I'm new to this thread. I bought my 8500 in Jan of 2015 and mostly love how the picture looks, BUT I have one issue with 24p playback using the Oppo bdp-95.

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, so excuse my ignorance about all things related to the board and or tv.
I have 24p playback turned on in the bdp-95 and I noticed the other day San Andreas was dropping frames. Now I know I will be told to update the firmware on the tv and bdp-95.

My question is: Which firmware is the best to get? And are other people noticing a dropped frame every few mins during 24p playback? Is there anything I can do besides a f/w update to fix it?

I love this tv, but the slight hesistation/dropped frame is annoying.

Any help is really appreciated.
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post #4245 of 4324 Old 12-17-2015, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bhealy View Post
Ok, I'm new to this thread. I bought my 8500 in Jan of 2015 and mostly love how the picture looks, BUT I have one issue with 24p playback using the Oppo bdp-95.

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, so excuse my ignorance about all things related to the board and or tv.
I have 24p playback turned on in the bdp-95 and I noticed the other day San Andreas was dropping frames. Now I know I will be told to update the firmware on the tv and bdp-95.

My question is: Which firmware is the best to get? And are other people noticing a dropped frame every few mins during 24p playback? Is there anything I can do besides a f/w update to fix it?

I love this tv, but the slight hesistation/dropped frame is annoying.

Any help is really appreciated.
Well I'm no pro like some people on here.I'm actually here for help from these guys too. Probably a stupid question, but is your cinema smooth turned on?and as far as firmware goes no FW updates have modified PQ for quite some time.1209 I believe is current/optimal
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post #4246 of 4324 Old 12-17-2015, 10:59 AM
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To all of you epic calibrating videophiles out there. I've kept tabs on this feed since I got my set earlier in the year. Using one of pieandchips calibration (cheers) anyways I was hoping someone might have a standard mode (game/PCmode) calibration close to that of a nicely tuned movie mode. I know its nigh impossible to get close to reference with pc/game but alas I game quite avidly. Any settings at all for either mode would be much appreciated.
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post #4247 of 4324 Old 12-17-2015, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LegacyLegend View Post
To all of you epic calibrating videophiles out there. I've kept tabs on this feed since I got my set earlier in the year. Using one of pieandchips calibration (cheers) anyways I was hoping someone might have a standard mode (game/PCmode) calibration close to that of a nicely tuned movie mode. I know its nigh impossible to get close to reference with pc/game but alas I game quite avidly. Any settings at all for either mode would be much appreciated.
Look for a fierce_gt post from late 2014.

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post #4248 of 4324 Old 12-17-2015, 05:22 PM
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it's been a long time since i did this, so big grain of salt of course...
F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....

not sure why the pics no longer show up for the results, but all the settings are in text

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post #4249 of 4324 Old 01-03-2016, 08:50 PM
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If you update firmware do you need to redo the picture settings?

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post #4250 of 4324 Old 01-04-2016, 06:36 AM
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No.

Perhaps I misremembered.

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post #4251 of 4324 Old 01-14-2016, 07:56 PM
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No.
I'm sitting on firmware 1115. I obviously haven't updated for a long time. The TV is saying the next firmware is 1119, but when I look at the Samsung site I see 1211 as a USB download. Do I have to do X firmware upgrades to get to current, or should I use the USB method to go to 1211, or should I just stay with what I have. I'm not having any big problems, so I'm wondering whether I should even upgrade. Has updates since 1115 (a long time ago) offered noticeable improvements?
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post #4252 of 4324 Old 01-15-2016, 12:43 AM
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I'm not having any big problems, so I'm wondering whether I should even upgrade. Has updates since 1115 (a long time ago) offered noticeable improvements?
you better don't. every time you flashing newer firmware you risk your precious hardware but most likely won't get anything useful in return
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post #4253 of 4324 Old 01-17-2016, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
it's been a long time since i did this, so big grain of salt of course...
F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....

not sure why the pics no longer show up for the results, but all the settings are in text

I tried your settings just for giggles but they seem way too dark for me. I'm thinking of resetting my tv settings to refresh everything because I've updated a few times. Do you think here could be some sort of graphical glitch?

I know every tv is different but I didn't think the settings would be that off.
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post #4254 of 4324 Old 01-17-2016, 06:51 PM
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I tried your settings just for giggles but they seem way too dark for me. I'm thinking of resetting my tv settings to refresh everything because I've updated a few times. Do you think here could be some sort of graphical glitch?

I know every tv is different but I didn't think the settings would be that off.
depends what you're used to and what you prefer.

i HATE bright tv's. my f8500 gave me bad headaches with ootb settings. most of my calibrations have been for peak luminance between 30-35ftl. considered 'standard' for dark room viewing, but i also prefer it for ambient light viewing too.

if you increase the contrast, and cell light, you could get back some of that brightness

edit: sorry, i just double checked the link, and those settings were uber bright on my display. so not sure what's up with that. i mean cell light maxed, contrast maxed, standard picture mode, and no eco settings. there really isn't anything else you can adjust to make it any brighter. it's not even like i'm reducing brightness for accuracy by adjusting the 10pt controls, because i can't in pc mode.

the fw updates have had no effect on my settings. that should not be the issue if the updates worked correctly.

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post #4255 of 4324 Old 01-17-2016, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
depends what you're used to and what you prefer.

i HATE bright tv's. my f8500 gave me bad headaches with ootb settings. most of my calibrations have been for peak luminance between 30-35ftl. considered 'standard' for dark room viewing, but i also prefer it for ambient light viewing too.

if you increase the contrast, and cell light, you could get back some of that brightness

edit: sorry, i just double checked the link, and those settings were uber bright on my display. so not sure what's up with that. i mean cell light maxed, contrast maxed, standard picture mode, and no eco settings. there really isn't anything else you can adjust to make it any brighter. it's not even like i'm reducing brightness for accuracy by adjusting the 10pt controls, because i can't in pc mode.

the fw updates have had no effect on my settings. that should not be the issue if the updates worked correctly.

Thanks for the response,

I misspoke what I meant. I think the contrast is a bit too much, for example I was playing a racing game in cockpit view, and the black interior was too dark and many details seemed to almost blend in while the track and bright details looked superb. Saying the picture was too dark was the wrong word to use. Hopefully that makes more sense
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post #4256 of 4324 Old 01-19-2016, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james9120 View Post
Thanks for the response,

I misspoke what I meant. I think the contrast is a bit too much, for example I was playing a racing game in cockpit view, and the black interior was too dark and many details seemed to almost blend in while the track and bright details looked superb. Saying the picture was too dark was the wrong word to use. Hopefully that makes more sense
then that is totally understandable within panel tolerances. if you have a game with a 'brightness' setting on it, or better yet a test pattern like http://gonedigital.net/wp-content/up...test-black.png then just adjust the brightness.

honestly, for my gaming, i usually have the brightness set 'too high' by a couple of ticks, because i find i lose a lot of detail in the shadows if i don't. like if it's set 'correctly' that guy hiding in the corner is nearly impossible to see, and will probably get me. but if i have the brightness set higher, he's visible and i hopefully won't die...

my brightness settings have seemed to be lower than others who have posted calibrations in here, so i do not find this surprising at all.
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post #4257 of 4324 Old 01-19-2016, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LegacyLegend View Post
To all of you epic calibrating videophiles out there. I've kept tabs on this feed since I got my set earlier in the year. Using one of pieandchips calibration (cheers) anyways I was hoping someone might have a standard mode (game/PCmode) calibration close to that of a nicely tuned movie mode. I know its nigh impossible to get close to reference with pc/game but alas I game quite avidly. Any settings at all for either mode would be much appreciated.
This works great for me in Game Mode. It's pretty darn close to what the tv looks like in Movie Mode. I wouldn't even bother with PC Mode. I can't tell a difference in input lag between Game and PC.

Cell Light - 10
Contrast - 90
Brightness - 40
Sharpness - 0
Color - 50
Tint - 50-50
Dynamic contrast - off
Black tone - off
Color Space - auto
White Balance
R-O29

G-O25

B-O25

R-G30

G-G25

B-G24

Gamma+1
Color toneWarm2
Digital cleanOff
MPEG noiseOff
HDMI black level Normal
Black optimizer Dark Room
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post #4258 of 4324 Old 02-07-2016, 02:18 AM
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Are there any differences using a high cell light/lower contrast vs lower cell light/higher contrast settings?
Or is it just two ways of accomplishing the same thing?
Example: Cell Light 20/Contrast 85 vs Cell Light 15/Contrast 95.
Not sure if the above produces exactly the same light output but you get the idea.
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post #4259 of 4324 Old 02-07-2016, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rickardl View Post
Are there any differences using a high cell light/lower contrast vs lower cell light/higher contrast settings?
Or is it just two ways of accomplishing the same thing?
Example: Cell Light 20/Contrast 85 vs Cell Light 15/Contrast 95.
Not sure if the above produces exactly the same light output but you get the idea.
Sort of. I thought a Contrast of 96 was about the sweet spot. With my F8500 I didn't get any discoloration with contrast set to 96 but much lower than that and the ten point controls don't 'line up properly' making it difficult to calibrate. So in your examples I would go with 15/95.
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post #4260 of 4324 Old 02-07-2016, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rickardl View Post
Are there any differences using a high cell light/lower contrast vs lower cell light/higher contrast settings?
Or is it just two ways of accomplishing the same thing?
Example: Cell Light 20/Contrast 85 vs Cell Light 15/Contrast 95.
Not sure if the above produces exactly the same light output but you get the idea.
i'm about 80% sure about what i'm about to say. that means there's a 20% chance it's total BS though... you've be warned, haha.

the samsung's have a wacky contrast setting. it also affects the 10pt calibration(or maybe it's wacky because it doesn't?). essentially if you have contrast at 100, then the 10pts line up perfectly at 10%, 20%, 30%, etc. but if you lower contrast, it 'shifts'. with a contrast of 90, it would appear as though pt 10(which should be 100%) does not affect anything, it's essentially now lined up with somewhere around 110%. pt 9, shifts up close to 100%, pt 8 is somewhere around 90%...in the middle it gets ugly, pt 4 and pt5 seem to line up around 45% and 55% making them very difficult to dial in.

now adjusting cell light on the other hand, seems to also tie into the ABL behaviour. with a cell light of 20, you get the brightest picture the tv can handle all the time. so ABL doesn't 'kick in' until it's needed to conserve energy. when you lower cell light, you also change when ABL kicks in(lower setting kicks in sooner). it almost seems as though there are 'thresholds' with the cell light settings. like if you go from 20-17, there's very little change, and then 16 gives a noticeable drop in brightness. far as i can tell, the point where this 'threshold' change happens depends on the APL of the scene being displayed. a brighter scene will show a change at a higher setting, a dark scene may not show a change until single digits!

basically both of them cause issues along with lowering the luminance. honestly, the best way i've found to lower luminance is using the eco settings, but ONLY if it just happens to be the right amount. unfortunately only eco low is very useful imo, and i found it great for dark room viewing before i adjusted the voltages on the back panel(dropped down to around 32ftl). it acted like a 'forced' ABL, so it kept the abl 'on' permanently(or so it seemed), so not only did you get a less eye-straining image, but you didn't EVER see 'abl kick in'. at least i couldn't. but alas, after i did the voltage tweaks, eco low was too dim, and you really only have one option with little control. it either works awesome, or not at all. but on the plus side, after the voltage tweak, cell light 20, and contrast 95 got me a very comfortable 35ftl, so i didn't really need to drop cell light or contrast drastically anymore.


personally, i tend to prefer adjusting contrast between 95-100 only. if you need to go any lower than 95, start dropping the cell light. i did do a calibration with contrast at 90 and cell light at 20, but it took me about 3x as long to calibrate, and i did not find it 'looked' any better, and before doing the tedious 10pt calibrations, i'd say it looked worse than the contrast95/cell light 16 settings i had before

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1130K, 7.1/5.1.2 audio
Sources: HTPC(Enby), PS3, XBOX360, Wii
Control: Harmony One

Last edited by fierce_gt; 02-07-2016 at 10:43 AM.
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