F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 146 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4351 of 4376 Old 01-20-2017, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
Is this disc no good for setting up black on this plasma or am I simply doing it wrong?
I raise the brightness bar until I start to see dithering, then go one notch below that. In my case, that level is 48.

I own the 60" panel, though.

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post #4352 of 4376 Old 01-20-2017, 03:32 PM
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Where or what part of the patten are you evaluating for dithering?

I am almost certainly suffering black crush if I set it up using the S&M disc as described above. Right now I'm at 46 but I don't like ultra" bright spots (and lowered CL to 12), otherwise could also see 48 being the right number too. I bumped contrast up to 90 as well.

I have read the detailed description online for the S&M brightness test but it just doesn't line up with the F8500s behavior, at least for me.
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post #4353 of 4376 Old 01-20-2017, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
Where or what part of the patten are you evaluating for dithering?

I am almost certainly suffering black crush if I set it up using the S&M disc as described above. Right now I'm at 46 but I don't like ultra" bright spots (and lowered CL to 12), otherwise could also see 48 being the right number too. I bumped contrast up to 90 as well.

I have read the detailed description online for the S&M brightness test but it just doesn't line up with the F8500s behavior, at least for me.
I'm sorry, I guess I didn't mention I'm not using the S&M disc. I am however looking for dithering in "pure black" places (black bars on a film, for instance).

I like to think that I have immense shadow detail with my setup. I'll even get that set of people who complain that "my set is too dark" given a Cell Light of 16 and Contrast at 92.

But again, every set is different, especially when you're talking about different screen sizes. I can't say that I know what your disc does.

Any brightness under 43 or so sounds too low, though.

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post #4354 of 4376 Old 01-25-2017, 08:20 AM
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Gotcha, thanks. I'm sticking with brightness around 46 for now and will evaluate combinations of CL vs contrast for the most pleasing top end.
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post #4355 of 4376 Old 01-25-2017, 09:22 AM
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You guys watch movies with cinema or standard mode?

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post #4356 of 4376 Old 01-27-2017, 07:55 AM
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I am confused with the below information that I copied and pasted here. Does this mean I should turn off the 24fps and leave Film mode OFF and Judder to STANDARD? I thought Film mode should be Auto 1 or 2 and Judder set to OFF.


Please read:


Also on tap in the F8500 is 96Hz processing for handling 24fps material from Blu-ray movie discs, which does not work very well. In fact, the Cinema Smooth feature is what engages the 96Hz processing in the Samsung, conjointly taking away the Judder Corrector feature in the process. The end result unfortunately is the introduction of so much judder that this feature is not useable. With that said, the Samsung F8500 running at 60Hz, still delivers smoother pans like the fly over scene in Chapter 7 of “I am Legend” than the Panasonic VT50 series in its 60Hz setting. The Panasonic’s 96Hz processing scheme appears to first take the signal to 60Hz inserting 2:3 pull-down, and then converting the signal to 96Hz. This process produces an unacceptable amount of judder in the picture and is best left at the 60Hz setting in the Panasonic. The same is true of the Samsung where 96Hz is best left off, but it delivers that same scene much more smoothly with no hint of 2:3 pull-down hitching. I looked at this scene repeatedly, and found the best results with Film Mode set to Off on the Samsung, and the Judder Canceller set to Standard. The Race Car clip in 24p from the Spears & Munsil Blu-ray test disc was also reproduced very smoothly and cleanly.
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post #4357 of 4376 Old 01-27-2017, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post
You guys watch movies with cinema or standard mode?

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I use Cinema Mode and leave it turned on permanently. I have found no problems with judder or similar. More info in my response below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asere View Post
I am confused with the below information that I copied and pasted here. Does this mean I should turn off the 24fps and leave Film mode OFF and Judder to STANDARD? I thought Film mode should be Auto 1 or 2 and Judder set to OFF.

The settings depend on your sources and how you want to treat them. I have three main sources - Tivo Roamio (which I also use to stream Netflix and Amazon Prime), Oppo blu-ray player and a Chromecast - all connected to the TV via the same HDMI output from my receiver.

On the Tivo, I have only two video output modes enabled - 1080/60p and 24p pass-through which enables 1080/24p output. If the Tivo is tuned to any signal other than 1080/60p, it will upconvert it so the TV always gets 1080/60p. Unless the Tivo receives 1080/24p, in which case it will pass that through (pass-through only, it does not convert anything to 1080/24p but Netflix Super HD is an example). Similarly, on the Oppo, I have it set up to output 1080/60p for DVD and 1080/24p for Blu-ray. The Oppo does support conversion of 60p to 24p but its success is dependent on how well the original DVD disc was authored so I don't use this feature. The Chromecast outputs 1080/60p.

So in my case, the TV is always receiving a progressive signal, so there is no need to deinterlace. In this case, the Film Mode option is greyed out. If instead you output 60i signals to the TV, you will be able to set the Film (deinterlacing) Mode. I believe mode 1 is for movies and mode 2 is more suited to TV programs with text and banners (like news channels), or you could leave it in auto for the TV to pick what it thinks is the best mode based on the content it sees.

I don't use Motion Judder Canceller (frame interpolation, or smoothing) as I don't like the soap-opera effect, so that's kept off.

For 1080/24p content, I have the Cinema Smooth option turned on which upscales to 96p, and I leave it on all the time. If you have MJD enabled, and your TV receives a 24p signal with Cinema Smooth on, it will disable MJD in favor of CS, but when the TV receives a 60i/60p signal again, it will revert to using MJD again (unless you turn it off). Video settings that are specific to a certain video format can only be turned on/off or selected while the TV is receiving the appropriate signal, and they will then be enabled/disabled automatically by the TV depending on the signal it receives.
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Last edited by PaulF; 01-27-2017 at 12:48 PM.
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post #4358 of 4376 Old 01-30-2017, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
I use Cinema Mode and leave it turned on permanently. I have found no problems with judder or similar. More info in my response below.


The settings depend on your sources and how you want to treat them. I have three main sources - Tivo Roamio (which I also use to stream Netflix and Amazon Prime), Oppo blu-ray player and a Chromecast - all connected to the TV via the same HDMI output from my receiver.

On the Tivo, I have only two video output modes enabled - 1080/60p and 24p pass-through which enables 1080/24p output. If the Tivo is tuned to any signal other than 1080/60p, it will upconvert it so the TV always gets 1080/60p. Unless the Tivo receives 1080/24p, in which case it will pass that through (pass-through only, it does not convert anything to 1080/24p but Netflix Super HD is an example). Similarly, on the Oppo, I have it set up to output 1080/60p for DVD and 1080/24p for Blu-ray. The Oppo does support conversion of 60p to 24p but its success is dependent on how well the original DVD disc was authored so I don't use this feature. The Chromecast outputs 1080/60p.

So in my case, the TV is always receiving a progressive signal, so there is no need to deinterlace. In this case, the Film Mode option is greyed out. If instead you output 60i signals to the TV, you will be able to set the Film (deinterlacing) Mode. I believe mode 1 is for movies and mode 2 is more suited to TV programs with text and banners (like news channels), or you could leave it in auto for the TV to pick what it thinks is the best mode based on the content it sees.

I don't use Motion Judder Canceller (frame interpolation, or smoothing) as I don't like the soap-opera effect, so that's kept off.

For 1080/24p content, I have the Cinema Smooth option turned on which upscales to 96p, and I leave it on all the time. If you have MJD enabled, and your TV receives a 24p signal with Cinema Smooth on, it will disable MJD in favor of CS, but when the TV receives a 60i/60p signal again, it will revert to using MJD again (unless you turn it off). Video settings that are specific to a certain video format can only be turned on/off or selected while the TV is receiving the appropriate signal, and they will then be enabled/disabled automatically by the TV depending on the signal it receives.
Thank you. Do you mind sharing the settings you use for Movie mode? I tried cell light of 17-20 and contrast like 89 and its too dark. That is why I am using standard for all content now.
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post #4359 of 4376 Old 01-30-2017, 01:06 PM
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Thank you. Do you mind sharing the settings you use for Movie mode? I tried cell light of 17-20 and contrast like 89 and its too dark. That is why I am using standard for all content now.
I am currently at 46 for brightness, 12 for cell light and 89 for contrast in movie mode. This is a little dark and will not appeal to all, especially those coming from LCDs. I feel like my peak brightness is OK but the overall average is just a tad low. I may bump up CL a notch or two (and maybe compensate by offsetting contrast).

I was unlucky enough to suffer a bad panel. It was replaced for free under warranty but it has left me with concerns about driving the panel too hard. They get very hot at higher overall brightness levels.
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post #4360 of 4376 Old 01-30-2017, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulF View Post
I am currently at 46 for brightness, 12 for cell light and 89 for contrast in movie mode. This is a little dark and will not appeal to all, especially those coming from LCDs. I feel like my peak brightness is OK but the overall average is just a tad low. I may bump up CL a notch or two (and maybe compensate by offsetting contrast).

I was unlucky enough to suffer a bad panel. It was replaced for free under warranty but it has left me with concerns about driving the panel too hard. They get very hot at higher overall brightness levels.
Cell at 12 wow that's dark lol. I'll have to play with the settings more.

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post #4361 of 4376 Old 01-30-2017, 01:59 PM
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Cell at 12 wow that's dark lol. I'll have to play with the settings more.

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I have my CL at 10 with contrast at 100 lol
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post #4362 of 4376 Old 01-30-2017, 02:14 PM
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Cell at 12 wow that's dark lol. I'll have to play with the settings more.

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Here is my 51" babe playing during the day with 12 Cell as well. Youtube video really does not dot do this set justice though. 2:29 for top picture settings
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post #4363 of 4376 Old 02-02-2017, 07:52 PM
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I got a question about a video issue I've lately noticed. Primarily during darker scenes there seems to be a 'smearing' effect to the dark ink parts of the screen. It's very hard to describe but, it looks almost fluid in how the darker parts move.
I was watching Blair witch and I really noticed it during the dark night scenes with the camera moving quickly. And last night I noticed it watching Star wars 7.
I don't notice it during light scenes. So I'm thinking maybe it's a black level issue? I use the Oppo 95 for blu-ray playback.
The dark doesnt seem solid, if that makes any sense. It's almost like motion blur but not quite.

Does anyone know what I'm trying to describe? I wish i could describe it better.

I'm wondering if the 103 or 105 oppo would produce better blacks? Not sure what to think right now.

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post #4364 of 4376 Old 02-09-2017, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bhealy View Post
I got a question about a video issue I've lately noticed. Primarily during darker scenes there seems to be a 'smearing' effect to the dark ink parts of the screen. It's very hard to describe but, it looks almost fluid in how the darker parts move.
I was watching Blair witch and I really noticed it during the dark night scenes with the camera moving quickly. And last night I noticed it watching Star wars 7.
I don't notice it during light scenes. So I'm thinking maybe it's a black level issue? I use the Oppo 95 for blu-ray playback.
The dark doesnt seem solid, if that makes any sense. It's almost like motion blur but not quite.

Does anyone know what I'm trying to describe? I wish i could describe it better.

I'm wondering if the 103 or 105 oppo would produce better blacks? Not sure what to think right now.

Make sure MPEG Noise Filter is turned Off (in Picture Options). Your description matches what that looks like when it's enabled.

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post #4365 of 4376 Old Yesterday, 07:22 PM
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Out of the darkness will come some light!

Samsung says they've improved the F8500 PQ with a NEW FW update! 1215.2

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...v-f8500-series

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post #4366 of 4376 Old Yesterday, 07:26 PM
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Samsung says they've improved the F8500 PQ with a NEW FW update! 1215.2

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...v-f8500-series
A new one? That's strange considering it's an old set now.

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Samsung says they've improved the F8500 PQ with a NEW FW update! 1215.2

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...v-f8500-series
I just tried the update and mine has the latest from awhile back. How is this a new update?

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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Samsung says they've improved the F8500 PQ with a NEW FW update! 1215.2

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/ow...v-f8500-series
Check the dropdown. It doesn't say its for the F8500 plasma.
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The firmware update does not appear to be available on-line, but can be downloaded to USB.

I am confused if we should try & update the TV, because like you said the "detail" information says it applies to LED series: F7450/F7500/F7550/F8000 displays, but a model search for: PN64F8500AFXZA from the main support site leads to firmware update version: 1215.2 available under the "2013 Plasma Smart TV Edit product model F8500 Series" product support page.

Past experience leads me to believe Samsung's documented write-ups regarding it's firmware updates is less than complete.
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The firmware update does not appear to be available on-line, but can be downloaded to USB.

I am confused if we should try & update the TV, because like you said the "detail" information says it applies to LED series: F7450/F7500/F7550/F8000 displays, but a model search for: PN64F8500AFXZA from the main support site leads to firmware update version: 1215.2 available under the "2013 Plasma Smart TV Edit product model F8500 Series" product support page.

Past experience leads me to believe Samsung's documented write-ups regarding it's firmware updates is less than complete.
Who wants to be the guinea pig?
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post #4371 of 4376 Old Today, 11:55 AM
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I'm in Northern Ontario, Canada, and I found out about it while turning my set on (that's on the floor), to make sure it was working before showing it to a potential purchaser. (Who never showed!) Checking for updates, it downloaded the 1215.2. Then looked for the update online. (Which I posted, and it IS for the F8500 Plasma. Says right in the URL!) So, if I can get it to download on my set up here, it should download everywhere, since Samsung is usually giving us the updates LAST!

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Past experience leads me to believe Samsung's documented write-ups regarding it's firmware updates is less than complete.
That's an understatement. Perhaps Fierce will weigh in.
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Who wants to be the guinea pig?

Not me.


I have a Chad B. calibration that is absolutely glorious, and anyone who has a calibrated unit should worry about the potential fallout of "improvements to the picture" from a firmware update.
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
I'm in Northern Ontario, Canada, and I found out about it while turning my set on (that's on the floor), to make sure it was working before showing it to a potential purchaser. (Who never showed!) Checking for updates, it downloaded the 1215.2. Then looked for the update online. (Which I posted, and it IS for the F8500 Plasma. Says right in the URL!) So, if I can get it to download on my set up here, it should download everywhere, since Samsung is usually giving us the updates LAST!
Have you noticed any changes????

Might want to also check the smart features. Seems that someone said that this long after production that it is the smart features that get changed like dropping Skype.

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post #4375 of 4376 Old Today, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
I'm in Northern Ontario, Canada, and I found out about it while turning my set on (that's on the floor), to make sure it was working before showing it to a potential purchaser. (Who never showed!) Checking for updates, it downloaded the 1215.2. Then looked for the update online. (Which I posted, and it IS for the F8500 Plasma. Says right in the URL!) So, if I can get it to download on my set up here, it should download everywhere, since Samsung is usually giving us the updates LAST!
Do you remember what date this occurred? My 64F8500 has an Internet connection, is installed with firmware version 1215, but when I select the Software Update/Update now option I receive a message: There are no new updates for you at the moment.
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Do you remember what date this occurred? My 64F8500 has an Internet connection, is installed with firmware version 1215, but when I select the Software Update/Update now option I receive a message: There are no new updates for you at the moment.
FW update is dated Feb 1, 2017 on the Korean site.
Some may have received it earlier than this date.

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Samsung Pn51f8500 51 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv
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