F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 4 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #91 of 3960 Old 05-04-2013, 01:19 PM
 
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When I get a chance I am hoping to try a higher cell light cal just to see what the results are. Should be a few days.
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post #92 of 3960 Old 05-04-2013, 06:42 PM
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Does anyone have calibrations for the "Standard" mode?

I have alot of different templates for the "movie" mode, but I was hoping I could use the standard mode for brighter conditions....or at least have another saved option

Thanks
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post #93 of 3960 Old 05-04-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crmmoore View Post

Does anyone have calibrations for the "Standard" mode?

I have alot of different templates for the "movie" mode, but I was hoping I could use the standard mode for brighter conditions....or at least have another saved option

Thanks

I think most here are using CalDay for bright room conditions and CalDay and Movie mode seem to be the "best" starting points so far.....Of course accessing CalDay requires you to go into the Service Menu, so it should not be done by those who are not aware that if they make a mistake they could brick thier TV......
I think arenaman (from the UK) uses standard so you might want to ask him what he uses....
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post #94 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

I think most here are using CalDay for bright room conditions and CalDay and Movie mode seem to be the "best" starting points so far.....Of course accessing CalDay requires you to go into the Service Menu, so it should not be done by those who are not aware that if they make a mistake they could brick thier TV......
I think arenaman (from the UK) uses standard so you might want to ask him what he uses....

I'm using Standard Mode for sports and general viewing, it has a bit more life. I've had reservations about movie mode due to my experiences with the ES8000 and F8000 LED's though this is a different beast and I'm warming to movie and warm 2 for dark scenes and movies in dark conditions Cal Day/Night are greyed out apparently on UK models which is a shame. I haven't had chance to set it up properly as I've only had this replacement set 2 days but these setings look ok to me in the meantime

Cell 16
Contrast 85
Brightness 48
Sharpness 25
Dark room
CT Standard
Everything else off or default

I'll have a good look at it in the next few days

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post #95 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arenaman View Post

I'm using Standard Mode for sports and general viewing, it has a bit more life. I've had reservations about movie mode due to my experiences with the ES8000 and F8000 LED's though this is a different beast and I'm warming to movie and warm 2 for dark scenes and movies in dark conditions Cal Day/Night are greyed out apparently on UK models which is a shame. I haven't had chance to set it up properly as I've only had this replacement set 2 days but these setings look ok to me in the meantime

Cell 16
Contrast 85
Brightness 48
Sharpness 25
Dark room
CT Standard
Everything else off or default

I'll have a good look at it in the next few days

+1
Guess its due to our coming from LCDs... I've been using standard set to my liking for day/sports and cal/day setup for night.. I've tried every released movie and cal/night settings and like you I just find them kinda lifeless.. Then again it's one of the main reasons I chose the F8500, the perfect LED/plasma hybrid biggrin.gif
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post #96 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crmmoore View Post

Does anyone have calibrations for the "Standard" mode?

I have alot of different templates for the "movie" mode, but I was hoping I could use the standard mode for brighter conditions....or at least have another saved option

Thanks
I'd be interested in this too, don't want to go into the service menu as I'm a bit worried to screw something up.
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post #97 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arenaman View Post

I'm using Standard Mode for sports and general viewing, it has a bit more life. I've had reservations about movie mode due to my experiences with the ES8000 and F8000 LED's though this is a different beast and I'm warming to movie and warm 2 for dark scenes and movies in dark conditions Cal Day/Night are greyed out apparently on UK models which is a shame. I haven't had chance to set it up properly as I've only had this replacement set 2 days but these setings look ok to me in the meantime

Cell 16
Contrast 85
Brightness 48
Sharpness 25
Dark room
CT Standard
Everything else off or default

I'll have a good look at it in the next few days

I read some posts suggesting cell light should be left at 20 at all settings. How is 16 different than 20?

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post #98 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinger View Post

+1
Guess its due to our coming from LCDs... I've been using standard set to my liking for day/sports and cal/day setup for night.. I've tried every released movie and cal/night settings and like you I just find them kinda lifeless.. Then again it's one of the main reasons I chose the F8500, the perfect LED/plasma hybrid biggrin.gif

I've used that phrase before, I forget this is actually a plasma at times, best of both worlds

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post #99 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by remush View Post

Also posted in the main thread.

Finally got some time today and calibrated my 51inch.

These are the settings and results i got, for bright room viewing.

Movie Mode
Cell Light: 20
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint: 50/50
Dynamic Contrast: off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
RGB: Off
Color Space: Custom
Red: R52, G1, B7 Green: R23, G54, B5 Blue: R0, G0, B56 Yellow: R52, G51, B0 Cyan: R20, G53, B53 Magenta: R50, G0, B56

White Balance
R-Offset: 24 G-Offset: 25 B-Offset: 27 R-Gain: 29 G-Gain: 25 B-Gain: 28

10-Point
1: (R:+1 G:0 B:-1) 2: (R:0 G:0 B:-2) 3: (R:-1 G:0 B:0) 4: (R:+1 G:0 B:0) 5: (R:0 G:0 B:-1) 6: (triple zero) 7: (R:-1 G:0 B:+1) 8: (triple zero) 9: (R:+3, G:+3 B: +3) 10: (triple zero)
Gamma: +1
Color Tone: Warm2
HDMI Black level: Greyed out (Normal)
Motion Judder: Off
Film Mode: Off
Black Optimier: Dark Room














Tried these on my 51 and they look great in my opinion. I have a well lit great room with lots of windows and lights and this looks great! Thanks for posting. I'm going to run a Disney WOW blu ray in a couple weeks and will post them.
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post #100 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halimali View Post

I read some posts suggesting cell light should be left at 20 at all settings. How is 16 different than 20?

I'd read that too, I'll do a basic calibration based on that when I have time

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post #101 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 08:29 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Halimali View Post

I read some posts suggesting cell light should be left at 20 at all settings. How is 16 different than 20?

You'll find with this TV that quite a lot of calibrators can't/won't set to 20 as you can't get good reference settings doing so.
The rules may have to be re-thought due to the 'brightness' of the set.
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post #102 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 08:30 PM
 
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[edit important info - calibrated to firmware 1101 / 1102]

Here's a 50fL average bright room calibration if anyone is interested. I can't get good results with cell light at 20. 17 is the highest I can go with acceptable results. I'll post screenies later...

movie mode
celllight-17
contrast-94
brightness-47
sharpness-0
color-50
everything else - off

colorspace-custom
Red 49.0.4
Green 34,56,4
Blue 3,2,58
Yellow 51,51,7
Cyan 34,54,53
Magenta 46,0,55

White Balance
26,24,24,32,23,26

10p WB
1 R -1,G -1,B 2
2 1,0,-1
3 1,1,4
4 -2,-1,0
5 0,0,-3
6 0,0,1
7 -1,0,1
8 -1,0,-3
9 6,5,8
10 3,5,2

gamma- +1
colortone- warm2
blackoptimizer-darkroom
everything else- off

[edit - pics]

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post #103 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Here's a 50fL average bright room calibration if anyone is interested. I can't get good results with cell light at 20. 17 is the highest I can go with acceptable results. I'll post screenies later...

movie mode
celllight-17
contrast-94
brightness-47
sharpness-0
color-50
dyn contrast-off
blacktone-off

colorspace-custom
Red 49.0.4
Green 34,56,4
Blue 3,2,58
Yellow 51,51,7
Cyan 34,54,53
Magenta 46,0,55

White Balance
26,24,24,32,23,26

10p WB
1 -1,-1,2
2 1,0,-1
3 1,1,4
4 -2,-1,0
5 0,0,-3
6 0,0,1
7 -1,0,1
8 -1,0,-3
9 6,5,8
10 3,5,2

gamma- +1
colortone-warm2

blackoptimizer-darkroom

sorry for the 'noob' question, but what exactly becomes unacceptable at higher cell lights?

i'm sure i'll have to turn mine down when I get it too, I've got an older Samsung plasma at 7/10 and when I had an LED I had to turn the backlight down to 4 our 20, haha. but i'm just curious, cause I've usually done the backlight/cell light setting last. wondering if I should be looking for specific changes when I do that as opposed to simply trying to get the right light for the room conditions.

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post #104 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 09:14 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

sorry for the 'noob' question, but what exactly becomes unacceptable at higher cell lights?

I'm quite a noob at this too eek.gif I can only explain it in my own words,-
My preferred viewing environment is quite a dim room. The pupils in my eyes are required to open up a bit. With cell at 20 and gamma, contrast and brightness set accordingly to achieve a viewable picture, when you see images such as vehicle head lights in the night, they appear completely unreal and over bright compared to their surroundings and how they 'should' look.

I'm after realism, in color, perceived brightness, greyscale etc.

I believe this plasma has exceeded the convention that cell should be set to max and other controls set to compensate. Just my 2c.

I just can't watch a bright, vivid picture comfortably as it looks unreal wink.gif
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post #105 of 3960 Old 05-05-2013, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

I'm quite a noob at this too eek.gif I can only explain it in my own words,-
My preferred viewing environment is quite a dim room. The pupils in my eyes are required to open up a bit. With cell at 20 and gamma, contrast and brightness set accordingly to achieve a viewable picture, when you see images such as vehicle head lights in the night, they appear completely unreal and over bright compared to their surroundings and how they 'should' look.

I'm after realism, in color, perceived brightness, greyscale etc.

I believe this plasma has exceeded the convention that cell should be set to max and other controls set to compensate. Just my 2c.

I just can't watch a bright, vivid picture comfortably as it looks unreal wink.gif

I guess you are right. There should be no rules. I would set it to the level I see it comfortable to my eyes. The backlight on my LED is set to minimum right now and I find it comfortable.

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post #106 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 10:56 AM
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Cnet clearly said that their calibration was just a very slightly improvement on the default movie mode. Did anybody notice big improvements in their calibration?

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post #107 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:10 AM
 
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^ Yes most definitely.

I don't know what cnet are talking about.

My calibration for 50fL is closest for 'comparison',- White is white, color is way more accurate and greyscale way more deep. If I flick between movie and CAL-DAY (my settings), there is absolutely, categorically no comparison.

The whole family keep wow'ing the calibrated pic on what was a great pic to begin with prior to meter calibration.

I can't stress it enough!! biggrin.gif
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post #108 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:18 AM
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CNET also had the different firmware, might be why the movie mode was so close to their calibrated settings
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post #109 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ Yes most definitely.

I don't know what cnet are talking about.

My calibration for 50fL is closest for 'comparison',- White is white, color is way more accurate and greyscale way more deep. If I flick between movie and CAL-DAY (my settings) and default movie, there is absolutely, categorically no comparison.

The whole family keep wow'ing the calibrated pic on what was a great pic to begin with prior to meter calibration.

I can't stress it enough!! biggrin.gif

That is really great thing to hear. I will try your settings after I get my set and break it in

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post #110 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by tlfarms View Post

CNET also had the different firmware, might be why the movie mode was so close to their calibrated settings

You are right. I guess that means that the out of the box setting is really good too

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post #111 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

I'm quite a noob at this too eek.gif I can only explain it in my own words,-
My preferred viewing environment is quite a dim room. The pupils in my eyes are required to open up a bit. With cell at 20 and gamma, contrast and brightness set accordingly to achieve a viewable picture, when you see images such as vehicle head lights in the night, they appear completely unreal and over bright compared to their surroundings and how they 'should' look.

I'm after realism, in color, perceived brightness, greyscale etc.

I believe this plasma has exceeded the convention that cell should be set to max and other controls set to compensate. Just my 2c.

I just can't watch a bright, vivid picture comfortably as it looks unreal wink.gif

not that I disagree with you, but aren't cars headlights painfully bright in real life? haha.

I would definitely want the picture not to hurt my eyes, but I wouldn't say it's because the picture is brighter than real life. i'd say it's because in movies you can flip between night time, staying at the sun, and back to looking at headlight of oncoming traffic in seconds and it takes our eyes up to 20mins to adjust from bright light to dark rooms. sucks if you can't see what your tv is displaying because a car just drove by on screen, haha. or if you have to look away when the camera pans across the sky and reveals the sun directly tongue.gif gonna have to get a pair of transistions lenses to watch TV cool.gif

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post #112 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:31 AM
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Cnet's reviews aren't very comprehensive, not bad but not ones I really look for or take notice of if I'm honest

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post #113 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:53 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

not that I disagree with you, but aren't cars headlights painfully bright in real life? haha.

biggrin.gif Of course, but as an example when they are not pointing at you directly, but they APPEAR as though they may as well be, then it simply looks unrealistic.
Almost like too much CG has been applied, if I can make that analogy.
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post #114 of 3960 Old 05-06-2013, 11:58 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlfarms View Post

CNET also had the different firmware, might be why the movie mode was so close to their calibrated settings

I disagree smile.gif just due to the fact cell 18, warm 2, default color and gamma at 0 creates weird looking flesh tones. I highly doubt the fw upgrade tweaks these values.
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post #115 of 3960 Old 05-07-2013, 04:21 PM
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pieandchips settings are really good. Better then cnet by far. I look forward to new ones following the 1103 update which got rid of brightness pops but has seemed to lessen the brightness on the tv.

Samsung F8500 Service menu factory reset and activating cal modes instructions

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post24101072
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post #116 of 3960 Old 05-07-2013, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Damien Inferno View Post

pieandchips settings are really good. Better then cnet by far. I look forward to new ones following the 1103 update which got rid of brightness pops but has seemed to lessen the brightness on the tv.

which of his do u like best, his first posted settings or the more recent ones? did u check out remushs settings? i have yet to test them all but remushs are good on my set (tho with lowered cell light at 16 to 18 depending)

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post #117 of 3960 Old 05-07-2013, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ljmart View Post

which of his do u like best, his first posted settings or the more recent ones? did u check out remushs settings? i have yet to test them all but remushs are good on my set (tho with lowered cell light at 16 to 18 depending)

i like his 50fL average bright room calibration alot. but now with the 1103 update which seemed to have lessened the brightness on my tv I look very forward to his new ones

Samsung F8500 Service menu factory reset and activating cal modes instructions

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post24101072
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post #118 of 3960 Old 05-07-2013, 05:20 PM
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I'm using his average brightness cal too and like it, I also tried Remush's and like them as well.
I've still got the 1102 ver firmware and when I checked for an update it said that none were available.
I'm connected to the internet for auto update so not sure why no update is available.
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post #119 of 3960 Old 05-07-2013, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damien Inferno View Post

pieandchips settings are really good. Better then cnet by far. I look forward to new ones following the 1103 update which got rid of brightness pops but has seemed to lessen the brightness on the tv.

Agreed. I entered pieandchips's settings (with 1103 FW) and turned the cell light to 20 and raised contrast a bit and it looks really really good.

Warm2 needs tweaking on this set to not look a bit odd. Out of the box I like Warm 1 better but when you calibrate Warm2 it looks really good.

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post #120 of 3960 Old 05-07-2013, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cupstid View Post

I'm using his average brightness cal too and like it, I also tried Remush's and like them as well.
I've still got the 1102 ver firmware and when I checked for an update it said that none were available.
I'm connected to the internet for auto update so not sure why no update is available.

usually over the air internet update is available the next day after release....
thanks for settings opinions!

Samsung PN51F8500 ~ Marantz SR5008 ~ Oppo BDP 103D ~ EMP Tek R55TiB LR, R56CiB, R55WiB ~ Sennheiser Momentum ~ Sennheiser 598
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