F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 46 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1351 of 4147 Old 10-14-2013, 02:14 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

In Samsungs 10P white balance sub-Menu what do the intervals represent ? Is interval 1 10% Interval 2 20% and so on...

Yes.
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post #1352 of 4147 Old 10-14-2013, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

Zoyd,
I really don't know much in the way of Calibrations. I just started. I kept putting it off cause I knew it was going to have quite a learning curve. My Forte has always been sound. I understand the Basic's and that's all. I do try to do most of my research myself and not be a bother too much. That's the reason I just paid and have been watching Michael Chen's training Videos. I knew I would have more questions than anyone would be willing to answer. I haven't even Bothered Buzz yet, even though he said just Holler.
Trying,
Glen

no problem, sometimes the 10pt is more trouble than it's worth so see what you can do with just the 2pt controls first. And don't worry about questions, everyone learns from them!
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post #1353 of 4147 Old 10-14-2013, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

So....

What level of nuts am I?

For the record I'm getting quite substantially different readings comparing AVS HD709 APL large vs Spears and Munsil v2 Equal Energy slides.
This TV does seem fussy.
From the looks of things so far, I am getting better results from Spears and Munsil.
Makes me wonder what the variances are between all slides and generators....

I would use the GCD test disk.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406352/gcd-gamut-calibration-disk
This has 10% window size and a 21% constant APL.
The AVS patterns don't work that well with a plasma (IMHO) especially 2013 Panasonics.
I don't have the S & M disc so I cannot comment.

Except for the floating blacks the F8500 is well behaved but will change with different pattern sizes and types.
My Panasonic ST60 that I "had" was all over the place !

There is a thread over on the calibration forum that goes into this more.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1446386/abl-effects-measured-for-comparison

Would still like you to post some black level detail (perhaps with the GCD disk) to correlate with my numbers.

Todd
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post #1354 of 4147 Old 10-14-2013, 05:43 PM
 
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^ Great info thank you.
I'm sorry to report I forgot all about your request whilst doing the cal.
I will do some measurements when I get the meter out again.
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post #1355 of 4147 Old 10-14-2013, 05:44 PM
 
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New cal is up. Revision 4.0, link in signature.
I spent a long time with new source material going back and forth and I believe it to be better in both greyscale and color accuracy than the previous cal.
Had enough now though. Time to relax wink.gif
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post #1356 of 4147 Old 10-14-2013, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

Zoyd,
I really don't know much in the way of Calibrations. I just started. I kept putting it off cause I knew it was going to have quite a learning curve. My Forte has always been sound. I understand the Basic's and that's all. I do try to do most of my research myself and not be a bother too much. That's the reason I just paid and have been watching Michael Chen's training Videos. I knew I would have more questions than anyone would be willing to answer. I haven't even Bothered Buzz yet, even though he said just Holler.
Trying,
Glen

Patience and perseverance, those are the requirements. In time, the basics of calibration will become second nature and the differences of display response will become the challenge. Comprehending why some displays act unlike others is a large part of the learning process. Pre calibration research whether it be an owners forum or a private forum such as based at ISF or THX can be a huge head start although they are not a requirement much less a guarantee. Experience is the best teacher and there are few shortcuts. smile.gif

Buzz
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post #1357 of 4147 Old 10-15-2013, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

New cal is up. Revision 4.0, link in signature.
I spent a long time with new source material going back and forth and I believe it to be better in both greyscale and color accuracy than the previous cal.
Had enough now though. Time to relax wink.gif

Looking at the reports, this looks to be your best yet. Congratulations. I'll give it a try later today.

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post #1358 of 4147 Old 10-15-2013, 05:43 AM
 
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Those replies are referring to an older version. I just overwrote the earlier cal but thanks anyway wink.gif
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post #1359 of 4147 Old 10-15-2013, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Those replies are referring to an older version. I just overwrote the earlier cal but thanks anyway wink.gif

Does cinema smooth on affects your settings?
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post #1360 of 4147 Old 10-15-2013, 06:41 AM
 
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^ I am still finding CS to be buggy so I don't use it. I get frame drops/glitches every now and then.

I do remember it not affecting blacks any more though.
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post #1361 of 4147 Old 10-15-2013, 06:52 AM
 
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If anyone spots contrast up one notch, brightness down one notch compared to the older cal it's due to the different source material I used.
I was quite amazed with the subtle differences between the two.
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post #1362 of 4147 Old 10-15-2013, 07:58 AM
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^^^ In your settings, you say "Adjust level to taste" for Cell Light. Have you noticed any changes in grey scale if your drop it lower...say 12 or 13?

Samsung PN60F8500, Panasonic TH-42PD25U/P, Pioneer VSX-1018TXH-K, Oppo BDP-93, Aperion Audio 5T&5C, HSU STF-2, PS3, Wii, HTPC, SD Homerun Prime, Ceton Echo
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post #1363 of 4147 Old 10-15-2013, 09:13 AM
 
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^ +/- 2 you should be okay.
I'm unsure about going quite a bit different although I recall Zoyd saying it shouldn't matter too much. Perhaps he can comment technically. I believe ABL/contrast ratio to play a part(?)
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post #1364 of 4147 Old 10-16-2013, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post

Patience and perseverance, those are the requirements. In time, the basics of calibration will become second nature and the differences of display response will become the challenge. Comprehending why some displays act unlike others is a large part of the learning process. Pre calibration research whether it be an owners forum or a private forum such as based at ISF or THX can be a huge head start although they are not a requirement much less a guarantee. Experience is the best teacher and there are few shortcuts. smile.gif
I knew this coming in and have No excuses. I understand that there is no way to put the Genie back in the Bottle Now. It seems to be like every Tuff thing I have set my mind to do. Nothing worth having is easy, but I will get it no matter how long it takes and I will do it right not half A$$.

Nothing's Perfect So Stop Expecting It ! Glenee

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post #1365 of 4147 Old 10-17-2013, 01:27 PM
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I am looking at enabling CAL-day and night. However, I live in Canada thus I don't qualify for the free remote that Samsung was or is offering. Just wondering if any push button Samsung remote will work to access the service menu or should I be looking at getting a specific one. Thanks
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post #1366 of 4147 Old 10-17-2013, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney74 View Post

I am looking at enabling CAL-day and night. However, I live in Canada thus I don't qualify for the free remote that Samsung was or is offering. Just wondering if any push button Samsung remote will work to access the service menu or should I be looking at getting a specific one. Thanks

Yes, any one of them. Borrow your next door neighbor's.

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post #1367 of 4147 Old 10-17-2013, 05:15 PM
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Does accessing the cal modes void the Sammy warranty or was that rumor bs?

26 What good will it be for a man if he gains the whole world, yet forfeits his soul? Or what can a man give in exchange for his soul?

Matthew 16:26 NIV
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post #1368 of 4147 Old 10-18-2013, 05:28 AM
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agree.I think its time for an upgrade at least until OLED or the next tech becomes reasonable

25.gif

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post #1369 of 4147 Old 10-18-2013, 05:53 AM
 
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Does accessing the cal modes void the Sammy warranty or was that rumor bs?

If you screw up they won't fix it for free but other than that you should be fine.


Sent using ThisisCrap 2
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post #1370 of 4147 Old 10-19-2013, 07:06 PM
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When you guys are doing the 10pt on this display, Do you guys start at 100% and work to 10%, or do you start at 50% and work either side out ward towards the end. The reason I ask is some display's work better with one or the other. i.e. LG's manufactures recommendations say start at 100 and work to 10 and then Fine tune all one more time.
Has anyone noticed this display responding better to one of these methods over the other.

Nothing's Perfect So Stop Expecting It ! Glenee

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post #1371 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 06:46 AM
 
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^ I start with 100%, then go down to 10%
It's good to measure all the points first to see what gamma 'curve' you have uncalibrated.

The 2 point adjustments before the 10 point is 30 and 100. I don't do peak white.

I use a PS3 as the source. Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr.

/edited - had it backwards for some stupid reason.
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post #1372 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 07:04 AM
 
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To add, I may be doing this unconventionally, but it works for me:

I roughly adjust the points with the most difference, then go back to 2p and re-adjust, then back to 10p, re-measure 100 first, then measure and adjust the points with most difference again.
There will be a sweet spot that you will find.

Sometimes I can't get it to work, as I probably have adjusted some points too much that they are affecting some others too much (if you follow).

Rinse and repeat until you get it right wink.gif

Then do CMS (this can affect black level), then go back again to 2p and 10p just to make sure all is a-ok.

By this time your head will be mush. Time for a break.
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post #1373 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 07:20 AM
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P&C,
I am finding out the more I research Calibration's in General there is no standard, it's not a science it's a ART. It's not how you get there just as long as you get there. Ever Notice How the assumed World experts never give a straight answer to anything. That's because no one knows the straight answer because each Display is different and requires a different approach to get there. I think Buzz gave me a hint in a previous post and He is right.
I am finding out that some of the best calibrators in the world today, have way different approaches to what takes precident , in the non perfect world of Calibrations.
I am starting to understand a little of it, and it is becoming clearer each day.

Nothing's Perfect So Stop Expecting It ! Glenee

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post #1374 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 08:35 AM
 
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^ Yes it sure is a learning curve and still I think I know very little...

One other thing I forgot to mention is once you have decent RGB balance, adjust the gamma to flatten it out as much as possible by moving R, G and B (per point) up or down together. You will see the gamma raise or lower without RGB getting too messed up.

Out of interest, what gamma level did you pick and what is your preferred brightness in fL for movies? the two are very much related.
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post #1375 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 09:20 AM
 
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Around the 90% mark it's inherently noisy, so may spike or dip your readings, but just plough through and live with it.
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post #1376 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ola67 View Post

Hi there!
Finally came around to post the calibrated settings for my PN64F8500 from Value Electronics. Kevin Miller made the calibration. Still waiting for the report.

Movie/CAL Night/Cal Day/3D
Snip...snip...snip...

I tried the Cal--Night on my 64F8500 and that is really nice, thanks! I know these are set and setting specific but it looks fantastic on mine also.
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post #1377 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 09:55 AM
 
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^ Ahh so you can see the difference between eye and meter? smile.gif
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post #1378 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 04:56 PM
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For those of you with meters doing your own calibrations:

This is not uncommon.

1. Do a GS / Gamma run.
2. Write down the 90% measurements.
3. Adjust 80%
4. Check 90% and see if it has changed.

If 90% has changed you need to experiment and look at other luminance valuations vs the control used to calibrate. You might need to monitor one parameter such as 90% while adjusting with the 80% controls, etc.

This varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, model to model, year to year and is merely one of the "tricks" used in calibration. Yes, it might take a long time to get the results you want, but this is why, as someone dedicated to getting the best calibration for which your display is capable, you press on to the best of your display's ability. Never give up. Keep looking, keep asking....

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post #1379 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 06:22 PM
 
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^ Buzz, I think you like to throw large bait to the small fish wink.gif
Saying that I do value your comments a lot.

It's difficult to do as you suggest with meters like ours as 90% is noisy as heck.
I have tried in the past but haven't been very successful.

As you have measured a few F8500s by now, perhaps you could share some of it's specific secrets?
What processes do you follow calibrating a F8500?
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post #1380 of 4147 Old 10-20-2013, 11:48 PM
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I own the 64" Samsung F8500 Plasma only 3 months old however find that when i turn it on , it ghosts / Flickers the top information bar to the bottom part of the screen like the Source list etc , seems to stop once you have a signal from a source , haven't looked more further into it but for a TV at £3'000 i'd expect not to have that...

My setup as follows ....

Samsung 64" F85000
Bose Lifestyle V35 ( Lifestyle 535 Sereis II )
Playstation 3
Sky TV 2TB
Apple TV
Sonos Connect

I have the Monster Calibration DVD which i'll soon sort but thought i'd see if anyone has had this issue for ghost / flickering

I haven't installed the supplied ferrit cores that came with the tv as of yet but my power supply has a build in RFI filter 25Amp in line ( after the RCD house mains for the home theatres power )

also looking at replacing PS3 with a OPPO BDP-105 as I want to try 24bit 192K SACD via the bose Lifestyle hopefully the bose can handle audiophile music etc
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