F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 49 - AVS Forum
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post #1441 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 02:06 PM
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P&C. Everything I have read and seen says to use 30 and 80 for initial set. What is the advantage to using 100 and 30 instead ? I know you have a good reason I just want to know why.

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post #1442 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 02:17 PM
 
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^ I believe it's so you don't add a gamma dip or peak in 10p 80%.
Then it allows for a more accurate calculation of gamma at 100%.

Calman tells me to use 100% (for a 10p TV), and so do other places I've read about it.
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post #1443 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damien Inferno View Post

I entered these settings into my 64in. The only change I had to make is turning the cell light up to 18. Looks good. Thanks smile.gif

Hi,
I am receiving my 60" 8500 today. Can I use these for my set right out of the box?

Thanks,
Ken
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post #1444 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ I believe it's so you don't add a gamma dip or peak in 10p 80%.
Then it allows for a more accurate calculation of gamma at 100%.

Calman tells me to use 100% (for a 10p TV), and so do other places I've read about it.
thanks chromapure and michaels videos recommend the 80 first and then 30 for the initial gray scale run . There thinking is if your going to be off it's better to be off on the ends and not in the middle.
Different strokes for different folks. There is some reason you like getting that 100 % right on the front end. Tell ole Glenee another one of your hidden secrets .
Thanks,
Glen

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post #1445 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken6217 View Post

Hi,
I am receiving my 60" 8500 today. Can I use these for my set right out of the box?

Thanks,
Ken
Let that sucker settle in for 2-3 weeks and then try them. Nothing to lose except time.

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post #1446 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken6217 View Post

Hi,
I am receiving my 60" 8500 today. Can I use these for my set right out of the box?

Thanks,
Ken

Depends who you ask. Alot of people like to let the tv break in for 200 or so hours before calibrating.

Samsung F8500 Service menu factory reset and activating cal modes instructions

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-pl...l#post24101072
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post #1447 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 06:33 PM
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So I picked up the 64" 8500 2 weeks ago. Awesome device. I've messed around with some of the recommended settings on here, especially for those who have the 64". Correct me if I'm wrong because I'm a newbie when it comes to calibrating, but the settings for cell light, contrast, brightness, color and tint should get me a pretty nice picture. Where I get a little hazy is the myriad of settings for the CMS, 2 point and 10 point white balances. Wouldn't these last 3 settings be very variable from set to set? I set my basic settings and put the set on Auto for CMS, defaults for white balance and 10 point off. I would imagine that I need a professional calibration to really fine tune those settings. What do you guys think?

Oh, and I got the set open box at Best Buy for several hundred dollars off. So far it seems perfect other than a minor stripping of a cosmetic side panel plastic piece. Super glue put that right back down for me! I figure if I can get the 64" for about the price of the 60" then I mine as well go for it!
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post #1448 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 07:40 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken6217 View Post

Hi,
I am receiving my 60" 8500 today. Can I use these for my set right out of the box?

Thanks,
Ken

You can use any settings you wish as soon as you fire it up. There are no hard and fast rules.
Your TV will need a couple hundred hours to settle down if you are wanting to professionally calibrate it.

I didn't break-in, I dove-in head first on zero hours wink.gif
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post #1449 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 08:51 PM
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Let me clarify.

I was asking if there were any recommended settings that were better than the presets to use n the meantime until I get to 200 hours. Once I reach break in, I will have it ISF'd.

Like for instance, seeing contrast at 90 or 120 seems really high.

I have had many displays, including a 50" Kuro that this set is replacing.

What do you all set "Dynamic Contrast" at? It is set to low from he factory. What about Black Tone?

Thanks,
Ken
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post #1450 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 08:52 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WantsNWarrants View Post

/Cut from Owners Thread

(Please post your) PS 3 settings, specifically, with respect to an F8500, for viewing BD/DVD content..

Video Settings
Cinema Conversion - Auto - Default
BD/DVD Upscaler - Normal - Default
BD/DVD Video Output Format - Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr - For movies it is recommended as it prevents a video conversion stage to RGB and back again.
1080P 24 Hz Output - Your preference - works nicely with 96Hz Film Mode on some Blurays and not so nice on others.


Display Settings
RGB Range - Full - This is for gaming and not Bluray which is using Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr
Super Whites - On - Sends blacker-than-black and whiter-than-white video signals to the F8500 which supports it. This is an important setting prior to calibration of the TV.
Deep Color Output - Off - There are no Deep color Blurays/DVD's - and few games. Not worth turning on.
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post #1451 of 3618 Old 11-19-2013, 09:59 PM
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I will go with 100% White for adjusting Gains. 80% Grey will give different values.
I'm use to LG where it's 100% and 30% for making the adjustments. Just trying to make sure I'm using the correct %.
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post #1452 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 01:26 AM
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Getting100% the right color temperature is not the #1 priority on mine(Samsung pne450).Its better too have mid and mid to bright tones right like outdoor natural scenery(blue sky with forests,clouds and sky).And it should have enough blue for stuff like hockey.skiing or it will look terrible.And the brightest whites not too torchy.It's a balancing act.That's the way it is on mine.....Although the f series is probably a bit different than mine.
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post #1453 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 07:43 AM
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When it comes to calibrate, will just have to find what this TV likes the best. (80 or 100%) So far, have put the S&M 2 on to calibrate the Contrast to 97, Brightness to 42, Cell at 7, Sharpness at 15. Left Colour at 50 since I will AutoCal with the iScan Duo. Gains, Offsets, 2/10 Point White Balance is still to be determined, because again of AutoCalling with the Duo. On my LGs, I leave 2/10 Point and CMS at Zeroes, and let either the Duos, or on my set, the Radiance XE-3D do the work.
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post #1454 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

I will go with 100% White for adjusting Gains. 80% Grey will give different values.
I'm use to LG where it's 100% and 30% for making the adjustments. Just trying to make sure I'm using the correct %.
I have heard wher LG recommends to start at 100% first and then go to 50% and then slowly work your way out on each side to the ends.
As I said different strokes for different manufactures (Folks)

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post #1455 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

I have heard wher LG recommends to start at 100% first and then go to 50% and then slowly work your way out on each side to the ends.
As I said different strokes for different manufactures (Folks)

LG - get 100% correct, then start from 10% and work your way back up.
AutoCal goes 0%, 100%, 50%, 25%, jumps back up to finish the top, then the middle and bottom. (21 Point - Radiance XE-3D) 0%, 100%, 50%, 20%, then back up to do the top, middle and bottom (11 Point Duo) Guess will I'll find out what the Duo does on the Samsung.
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post #1456 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 11:45 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne 

I will go with 100% White for adjusting Gains. 80% Grey will give different values.
I'm use to LG where it's 100% and 30% for making the adjustments. Just trying to make sure I'm using the correct %.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenee View Post

I have heard wher LG recommends to start at 100% first and then go to 50% and then slowly work your way out on each side to the ends.
As I said different strokes for different manufactures (Folks)

I've tried each and every way with the F8500, and have found 100 first then 10 back up seems to get me cleaner levels and better results. YMMV of course.

- Also jealous level 10 to you both for having fancy pattern generator capabilities smile.gif
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post #1457 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post


I've tried each and every way with the F8500, and have found 100 first then 10 back up seems to get me cleaner levels and better results. YMMV of course.

- Also jealous level 10 to you both for having fancy pattern generator capabilities smile.gif

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post #1458 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 06:58 PM
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Well I am back in town at my computer finally. Trying to type responses on a iPad mini isn't my cup of tea, and I hope my post will make more sense.
P&C I will have to try your method on my Samsung and see what I get. I do hope it's better cause I am always looking for a better way.
I can sure see the point of the 100% reading since I have very limited control over it in the CMS System anyway, but I just don't know how accurate of a reading I can get at 10% with the stuff I have. I can only get a true and believable reading at 20%.

Thanks,
Glen

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post #1459 of 3618 Old 11-20-2013, 07:06 PM
 
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This is good I think we can all learn stuff from each other.

IMO 10% is so close to black it's really not 'that' important to get bang on. The eye essentially hasn't got a clue what's right at 10% whether you're out by a few notches.
What it does do if you tweak it to what your software is telling you, is that it starts the gravy train nicely for 20% then 30% etc. Your meter and software 'think' you're doing good things.

Again though YMMV.
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post #1460 of 3618 Old 11-21-2013, 06:31 AM
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Notice, I'm saying Generally speaking - the Upper 50% gets you Colour and Brightness. The Lower 50%, your Sharpness. Of course there's a lot more involved, but if you're having issues, these before mentioned areas would be where you want to concentrate. So if your PQ is fuzzy, then get your Lower 50% more accurate.
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post #1461 of 3618 Old 11-21-2013, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Notice, I'm saying Generally speaking - the Upper 50% gets you Colour and Brightness. The Lower 50%, your Sharpness. Of course there's a lot more involved, but if you're having issues, these before mentioned areas would be where you want to concentrate. So if your PQ is fuzzy, then get your Lower 50% more accurate.
Learn Something everyday. I did not know that Low end Affected sharpness and high end was more for colors. I thought that I had learned where High end Affected Contrast level of colors and the Low end affected Brightness level of colors. I love a sharp picture so the next time I Calibrate I will spend a lot more time in the Low end and give it a little more weight in the decision making for trade off's.
Thanks,
Glen

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post #1462 of 3618 Old 11-21-2013, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Notice, I'm saying Generally speaking - the Upper 50% gets you Colour and Brightness. The Lower 50%, your Sharpness. Of course there's a lot more involved, but if you're having issues, these before mentioned areas would be where you want to concentrate. So if your PQ is fuzzy, then get your Lower 50% more accurate.

Can you please explain this a little more regarding the upper and lower 50%?

Thanks,
Ken
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post #1463 of 3618 Old 11-21-2013, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
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Can you please explain this a little more regarding the upper and lower 50%?

Thanks,
Ken

Greyscale - this is from my observations.
Back when I first started calibrating. I didn't pay particular attention to the Greyscale from 50% down to 0% since my Meter at the time wasn't really that accurate. Always bothered me that my PQ ended up fuzzy. Once I purchased the i1Pro, I was then getting better Low End calibrations, and my PQ got more detailed. But the i1Pro has difficulties starting at around 30% to 0% Greyscale. Purchased the Spectracal C6 that I profiled the i1Pro to, Now I get the faster calibrations of the C6 and the more accurate readings of the i1Pro. Also eliminated having to continuously be doing Dark Readings every 9 minutes!
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^ Was that from the CRT days?

I understand it's no longer a correlation with digital grayscale on modern TV's.
-Could be wrong but I remember reading that somewhere...

2 point yes (green is the equivalent to contrast at the high end and brightness at the low end so that's why it's not recommended to tweak those values unless you deliberately want to adjust brightness or contrast in 2p), but 10 point not so much as green becomes more of a gamma control.


/edited.
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post #1465 of 3618 Old 11-21-2013, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Greyscale - this is from my observations.
Back when I first started calibrating. I didn't pay particular attention to the Greyscale from 50% down to 0% since my Meter at the time wasn't really that accurate. Always bothered me that my PQ ended up fuzzy. Once I purchased the i1Pro, I was then getting better Low End calibrations, and my PQ got more detailed. But the i1Pro has difficulties starting at around 30% to 0% Greyscale. Purchased the Spectracal C6 that I profiled the i1Pro to, Now I get the faster calibrations of the C6 and the more accurate readings of the i1Pro. Also eliminated having to continuously be doing Dark Readings every 9 minutes!

OK, thanks. I misunderstood. I thought you were talking about Sharpness control.
Ken
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post #1466 of 3618 Old 11-21-2013, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ken6217 View Post

OK, thanks. I misunderstood. I thought you were talking about Sharpness control.
Ken

Sharpness, just adjust using the S&M 2 Sharpness Pattern. Came up with 15 on my Samsung.
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post #1467 of 3618 Old 11-21-2013, 07:35 PM
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Does anyone know what BIT DEPTH it supports?  Im picking up XBOX ONE tonight and options are for 24, 30, or 36 Bit Depth.
Cant find specs on that anywhere.

Would setting it too high cause a problem?

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post #1468 of 3618 Old 11-22-2013, 09:36 PM
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Does anybody have some decent settings for hooking up with a ps4?

Hdmi black level: Low(tv)
Rgb range:Full(ps4)

That crushes my blacks. I can't see a damn thing. If I crank the brightness up to get some detail it just flattens the image and it looks like poo. Any suggestions?
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post #1469 of 3618 Old 11-22-2013, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ Was that from the CRT days?

I understand it's no longer a correlation with digital grayscale on modern TV's.
-Could be wrong but I remember reading that somewhere...

2 point yes (green is the equivalent to contrast at the high end and brightness at the low end so that's why it's not recommended to tweak those values unless you deliberately want to adjust brightness or contrast in 2p), but 10 point not so much as green becomes more of a gamma control.


just wanted to say THANK YOU for your most recent settings. (haven't tried 10pt, left it on auto) they are lookin great on my set! smile.gif

Samsung PN51F8500 ~ Marantz SR5008 ~ Oppo BDP 103D ~ EMP Tek R55TiB LR, R56CiB, R55WiB ~ Sennheiser Momentum ~ Sennheiser 598
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post #1470 of 3618 Old 11-23-2013, 10:03 AM
 
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^ Cheers! wink.gif

The color is really cinematic on this one and I like that a lot. Reds are just right now on the 51" (some folks used to more red won't think so of course). White and fleshtones good too.

10p for me enhances the mid range of gray.
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