F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

It is .1 wink.gif

Ummm thats not what it says in your original post. wink.gif You know there is a 1103 and a 1103.1 tongue.gif
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post #182 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Damien Inferno View Post

My favorite from you so far too. Looks great. Thanks buddy! biggrin.gif
I have to agree and I've tried them all. Watching Wrath of the Titans and it looks spectacular.
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post #183 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:34 PM
 
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Looking in the support section .1 is the same 1131 download that was available via the TV.

[edit] I think the TV does not report the .1 when it says an update is available, but it is the .1 version it uses, if that makes sense...
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post #184 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Picasso Moon View Post

Are the picture modes on the F8500 global or can they be tweaked per input?

For example, can you set up "movie" mode on HDMI 1 to have a cell light 20, contrast 90 etc. and have the same "movie" mode on HDMI 2 be cell light 16, contrast 85 etc?

My current display allows a mode to be adjusted either on a per input basis or a global basis but I'm not sure if that is common of all displays or somewhat unique to my current display (Sony).

Thanks

Picture settings are per input and also per 2D/3D mode. All happens automatically.

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post #185 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cupstid View Post

I have to agree and I've tried them all. Watching Wrath of the Titans and it looks spectacular.

same here. this one really brings out the blacks. smile.gif

Samsung F8500 Service menu factory reset and activating cal modes instructions

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475066/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-owners-thread-no-street-price-talk/2460#post_24101072
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post #186 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by endlessender View Post

Picture settings are per input and also per 2D/3D mode. All happens automatically.

Thanks
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post #187 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by endlessender View Post

Picture settings are per input and also per 2D/3D mode. All happens automatically.

as long as you change the apply picture mode setting to 'all sources' vs 'current source' correct?

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post #188 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 05:58 PM
 
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^ Some settings don't copy over, it's a bit buggy. It's always best to check the inputs you use.
The TV's Media Portal is another one to check when you're playing content.
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post #189 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:02 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Damien Inferno View Post

same here. this one really brings out the blacks. smile.gif

Thanks all for the thanks! smile.gif

Yeah I think this level of light output works well and shows the shadow details very well. It's probably close to the sweet spot for the TV.
17 cell goes back to what I was using pre 1103, I'm kind of getting used to this level.

I think I'll stick with this one and look to perform improvements on it, hopefully.
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post #190 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Thanks all for the thanks! smile.gif

Yeah I think this level of light output works well and shows the shadow details very well. It's probably close to the sweet spot for the TV.
17 cell goes back to what I was using pre 1103, I'm kind of getting used to this level.

I think I'll stick with this one and look to perform improvements on it, hopefully.

Are you going to try the 40ftL that they had at the shootout?
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post #191 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ljmart View Post

as long as you change the apply picture mode setting to 'all sources' vs 'current source' correct?

Cool. That is like the Sony. I like to have the cable box on a different input than the other media devices so I can have a little more brightness and "pop" for general viewing, sports etc. in daytime or nighttime lit room.
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post #192 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:12 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Are you going to try the 40ftL that they had at the shootout?

Yeah I'd love to, although that is for dim room environment, so it would suite my viewing, but maybe not a lot of others.
Are the values released yet do you know?
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post #193 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Picasso Moon View Post

Cool. That is like the Sony. I like to have the cable box on a different input than the other media devices so I can have a little more brightness and "pop" for general viewing, sports etc. in daytime or nighttime lit room.

yes i believe its only for hdmi connected sources. as pie stated it doesnt transfer over to netflicks via smarthub....

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post #194 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:15 PM
 
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^ Well strangely, the basic settings do, but not the cal values.
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post #195 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ Some settings don't copy over, it's a bit buggy. It's always best to check the inputs you use.
The TV's Media Portal is another one to check when you're playing content.

yes, very good point! and thanks for the 'new' calib numbers... getting ready to try em out!

Samsung PN51F8500. Marantz SR5008. Oppo BDP 103D. Sony BDP S5100. Emp Tek E55TIB LR, E5CIB, E55WIB. Sennheiser Momentum. Sennheiser 598.
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post #196 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Thanks all for the thanks! smile.gif

Yeah I think this level of light output works well and shows the shadow details very well. It's probably close to the sweet spot for the TV.
17 cell goes back to what I was using pre 1103, I'm kind of getting used to this level.

I think I'll stick with this one and look to perform improvements on it, hopefully.

I agree. Your 56fl settings were great too just a little too bright for watching sports. Cell light 17 seems to be the way to go. I think going any lower would be too dark. (Not that I know anything about calibrating lol).

Samsung F8500 Service menu factory reset and activating cal modes instructions

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475066/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-owners-thread-no-street-price-talk/2460#post_24101072
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post #197 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ Well strangely, the basic settings do, but not the cal values.

awww geez! gonna need new batteries for my remote!!!

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post #198 of 2307 Old 05-12-2013, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ljmart View Post

yes i believe its only for hdmi connected sources. as pie stated it doesnt transfer over to netflicks via smarthub....

That's OK. I doubt I'll ever use the built in media hub much. I bought a Roku 3 which I am really liking and should serve all me streaming needs.
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post #199 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 05:40 AM
 
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I don't know if anyone has caught this yet, but for people using 47, if you can see what I can, there is some strange stuff going on with yellow/white. It seems over saturated, if that would be the correct term to use. There is a slight yellow hue to everything.
It may be something to do with the wacky 10p values towards the top end and reference white, although it did look fine at the time.

There's something not quite right with the overall look of the picture.


I'm still learning and have oh so much to learn, it's mind boggling lol.
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post #200 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 07:39 AM
 
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I think I nailed it.
It was the way I performed my workflow.-
After reading up some more, when adjusting 10p, I left 100white alone to begin with and worked from 9 to 1, going back and forth between neighbors.
Each point change really affects the ones close by.

[edit]
I have posted the new settings.
The older values, whilst making blacks look really good, I think it was crushing things slightly, as well as giving everything a yellow tone.
The newer values bring things closer to standard I think.
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post #201 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

I think I nailed it.
It was the way I performed my workflow.-
After reading up some more, when adjusting 10p, I left 100white alone to begin with and worked from 9 to 1, going back and forth between neighbors.
Each point change really affects the ones close by.

[edit]
I have posted the new settings.
The older values, whilst making blacks look really good, I think it was crushing things slightly, as well as giving everything a yellow tone.
The newer values bring things closer to standard I think.

knowing nothing about calibration, i am amazed at how varied the numbers can be. thank u for all the hard work and posting smile.gif the new run does look great! what i notice is less pink skin tone now. well done pie!

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post #202 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 01:19 PM
 
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^ Yeah it's bonkers...lol.

If you imagine that I changed the height of the bar slightly, then tried to make the settings comply, the 10p white balance (from 1 - 10) changes with scale. That's why there are now quite a lot of negative values now mid to low range.

-Whether this is the 'correct' and justified way to go about things I am not qualified to answer but it got me good results wink.gif
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post #203 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ Yeah it's bonkers...lol.

If you imagine that I changed the height of the bar slightly, then tried to make the settings comply, the 10p white balance (from 1 - 10) changes with scale. That's why there are now quite a lot of negative values now mid to low range.

-Whether this is the 'correct' and justified way to go about things I am not qualified to answer but it got me good results wink.gif

Hopefully Larry or one of the other calibrators that watch the thread will comment wink.gif
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post #204 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ Yeah it's bonkers...lol.

If you imagine that I changed the height of the bar slightly, then tried to make the settings comply, the 10p white balance (from 1 - 10) changes with scale. That's why there are now quite a lot of negative values now mid to low range.

-Whether this is the 'correct' and justified way to go about things I am not qualified to answer but it got me good results wink.gif

ahh helps me to understand things more... thanks for the insight!

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post #205 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

^ Yeah it's bonkers...lol.

If you imagine that I changed the height of the bar slightly, then tried to make the settings comply, the 10p white balance (from 1 - 10) changes with scale. That's why there are now quite a lot of negative values now mid to low range.

-Whether this is the 'correct' and justified way to go about things I am not qualified to answer but it got me good results wink.gif


Pie,

You seem to be whipping out these calibrations in a matter of minutes. For someone at your level, it should take at least three hours per. In fact, the pros and those of us that do it for free take a minimum of about two hours and that's with many years experience. Here is a very simple explanation of how to approach it:

1. For the F8500, reset all the controls in the Movie mode including the white balance and 10 point. Use the Warm2 color temperature. Turn off all the junk setting. Put Contrast at no higher than 93 to 95. Set the Gamma control to zero. Adjust Cell to give a pleasing picture under your normal viewing conditions. Finally, set the Brightness correctly -- 16 black and 17 barely flashing on the AVSHD disk.

2. Adjust the offsets and gains to get the best possible grayscale tracking. On this TV, leave the green controls at 25 and work on with the red and blue. If it is absolutely necessary to use the green gain, only reduce it and compensate by increasing the red and/or blue if needed.

3. Readjust the Brightness control.

4. Use the 10 point controls to flatten out the grayscale.

5. Readjust the Brightness control.

6. Readjust the Gamma control to give you the desired gamma value. Increasing the Gamma control will reduce the actual gamma value. [[ Increasing the Gamma contol by one click, reduces the actual gamma by about 0.1. Decreasing by one, increases by about 0.1. ]]

7. Readjust the Brightness control.

8. Now use the 10 point controls to flatten out the gamma curve. Use the green contol for the interval that needs correction and then move the red and blue controls in that interval by exactly the same amount and in the same direction. Increasing the green will reduce the gamma in that interval. Reducing it will increase the gamma. [[ Try not to change any 10 point control by more than +/-4 max. ]]

9. Go to 3 until everything is where you want it. Now you should have a perfect black and white grayscale which you can see by viewing a B/W movie delivered from a good source.

10. Now tackle the colors. That's another discussion.


If you want to reduce the Contrast to be somewhere below 90, be aware that the 10 point controls will not line up with the intervals and you'll have to determine how they behave exactly. For this case, the higher end 10 point controls will have less and less affect as the Contrast control is reduced.

If you have to reduce the Cell to a point where the ABL threshold is lowered and becomes a problem, you will have to compromise by increasing it and lowering Contrast to compensate. Of course, then you'll run into the problem of the 10 point controls not lining up.


Calibration takes time and dedication to get it right. Have fun.

Additions to original post in [[...]]

Larry
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post #206 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

I think I nailed it.
It was the way I performed my workflow.-
After reading up some more, when adjusting 10p, I left 100white alone to begin with and worked from 9 to 1, going back and forth between neighbors.
Each point change really affects the ones close by.

[edit]
I have posted the new settings.
The older values, whilst making blacks look really good, I think it was crushing things slightly, as well as giving everything a yellow tone.
The newer values bring things closer to standard I think.

I think you did a great job with this one. I wasn't so sure about the last one but so far I'm liking this one a lot. Thanks for doing what you love and helping us out. smile.gif
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post #207 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 07:16 PM
 
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Larry I am out right now, but will digest your info, appreciated.
Each one takes approx 2-3 hours by the way.
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post #208 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 07:17 PM
 
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Originally Posted by surfmlb View Post

I think you did a great job with this one.

Thanks! smile.gif
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post #209 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Larry I am out right now, but will digest your info, appreciated.
Each one takes approx 2-3 hours by the way.

Well maybe it was luck of the draw or sample variation isn't to far off with different panel sizes, but I plugged in your 66ftl #'s and they look spot on. nothing that is standing out in a negative way at least.

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post #210 of 2307 Old 05-13-2013, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by pieandchips View Post

Thanks! smile.gif

Me too. You get better and better with each calibration you do.

Samsung F8500 Service menu factory reset and activating cal modes instructions

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475066/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-owners-thread-no-street-price-talk/2460#post_24101072
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