F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 73 - AVS Forum
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post #2161 of 2185 Old 05-19-2014, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post

The C6 is an enhanced I1d3 it a very good colorimeter. It can be more accurate if it is profiled off a spectro but your calibration looks solid. If you wanted to get into yourself I would recommend an I1d3 and Calman Control at a minimum about a $400 dollar investment. The i1d3 will be stable much longer because the optics are sealed. The software comes with a 1 year of support for upgrades and bug fixes. I have delved into DIY myself but hit a meter accuracy wall that wasn't sufficient for my expectations but there are many diyers that use the I1d3 and are very happy with their calibrations.

Cool, thanks for the tips.

Is this the spectro you are referring to -> http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-EODIS3-i1Display-Pro/dp/B0055MBQOW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Is that compatible with the Calman 5 suite?

Looking at Calman's site, the tutorial version has the CMS, 2-point and 10-point calibrations tools and that's pretty much all I'll ever need right?

Also, how well would this combo hold up to let's say, an OLED I might purchase 4-6 years from now?

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post #2162 of 2185 Old 05-19-2014, 03:58 PM
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The i1d3 is a colorimeter, a spectro is a I1pro or I1pro2. The ideal combination is the i1d3 profiled off the spectro, that way you have the speed and low level performance of the i1d3 with the color accuracy of a spectro. Yes you should be able to use the meter to calibrate an oled in the future. Yes you could get by with the lower level of Calman but I think the Control version and up has valuable functionality.

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post #2163 of 2185 Old 05-19-2014, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

The i1d3 is a colorimeter, a spectro is a I1pro or I1pro2. The ideal combination is the i1d3 profiled off the spectro, that way you have the speed and low level performance of the i1d3 with the color accuracy of a spectro. Yes you should be able to use the meter to calibrate an oled in the future. Yes you could get by with the lower level of Calman but I think the Control version and up has valuable functionality.

OK, so the link I posted is the i1d3 which isn't a spectro? (It just says display pro so I' confused by the abbreviation)

I looked up the i1Basic Pro 2 which I take it is the l1pro2 you mentioned and it retails for a whopping $1300. How good of a calibration will the one I linked to provide given, I can't afford a $1000+ spectro? I'm hesitant to spend anymore if it's not nearly as accurate the calibration I paid for.



EDIT - Do you also need to buy a pattern generator or can you just use the patterns included in the Calman software?

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post #2164 of 2185 Old 05-19-2014, 04:29 PM
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You can pick up a used i1pro revd spectro for 300 to 400. The i1d3 is in par with the c6 your calibrator used.

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post #2165 of 2185 Old 05-19-2014, 06:07 PM
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You can calibrate the colors to spectros for easier/quicker calibrations.

 

TBH, there is a very small margin of difference between a system calibrated with a colorimeter or a spectrometer. Only trained eyes can see the difference as they know what to look for, but that's not always.

 

You don't look to have anything 'bad' at all on your calibration:

Post Calibration DeltaE2000 of 1.52 measured with a colorimeter, greyscale is perfectly acceptable. the human eye can't tell the difference at that level.

 

You're good to go.

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post #2166 of 2185 Old 05-19-2014, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice That Jaw View Post

OK, so the link I posted is the i1d3 which isn't a spectro? (It just says display pro so I' confused by the abbreviation)

I looked up the i1Basic Pro 2 which I take it is the l1pro2 you mentioned and it retails for a whopping $1300. How good of a calibration will the one I linked to provide given, I can't afford a $1000+ spectro? I'm hesitant to spend anymore if it's not nearly as accurate the calibration I paid for.



EDIT - Do you also need to buy a pattern generator or can you just use the patterns included in the Calman software?

For a 6 point CMS, you can use one of the many calibration disk that are available.....provided your bluray player is outputting a reference signal. Which bluray player are you using?????

Some do try to use their laptop as a signal generator but from what I gather, its a real pain and often times doesn't work right. So you may find yourself spending many hours doing calibrations to an incorrect signal.

Signal generators do make life much easier and if you go the 3D cube calibration route, you'll probably want to get one. I really like the Accupel 5000 and its well support on the entheusiast licenced version of Calman and on the plus version of Chromapure.

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post #2167 of 2185 Old 05-20-2014, 04:56 PM
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I just use my PS3 as a bluray player. But if you have the Calman software it has all it's patterns built into it, right? I don't remember him hooking up anything else to my TV. It looked like it was just the Colorimeter via HDMI into my receiver.

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post #2168 of 2185 Old 05-21-2014, 10:12 AM
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I setup Standard, Relaxed, and Motion with "DARK Room" and then I read a suggestion to set Standard and Relax at AUTO and Movie only at DARK Room..............so I went to do this and I find that for some unknown reason that setting is in SYNCH with the others.......whatever I set Movie at the others do the same.....so IF I set Movie to Dark Room, all three will be DR!
PLEASE advise................

TKS;)
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post #2169 of 2185 Old 07-08-2014, 07:10 AM
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Bought this TV a week ago and am using the WoW bluray to set everything up. A couple of questions;

1) For the motion judder setting, I've changed it from standard to "smooth". I've noticed when watching TV shows such as 24 and suits that the smooth setting seems to improve the motion to my eyes compared to when it was on standard when there are scenes such as fast walking through a room for example. Are there any negative effects to changing this setting to smooth?

2) What darkness level should I have the TV set to? I believe the choices were low, dark, darker, or darkest (I could be wrong on this). I've changed this setting to dark, and everything looks good but is this the setting I want it on to get he best blacks? Just curious what everyone else sets it to.

Thanks
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post #2170 of 2185 Old 07-08-2014, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby244 View Post
Bought this TV a week ago and am using the WoW bluray to set everything up. A couple of questions;

1) For the motion judder setting, I've changed it from standard to "smooth". I've noticed when watching TV shows such as 24 and suits that the smooth setting seems to improve the motion to my eyes compared to when it was on standard when there are scenes such as fast walking through a room for example. Are there any negative effects to changing this setting to smooth?

2) What darkness level should I have the TV set to? I believe the choices were low, dark, darker, or darkest (I could be wrong on this). I've changed this setting to dark, and everything looks good but is this the setting I want it on to get he best blacks? Just curious what everyone else sets it to.

Thanks
Turn off dynamic contrast and black tone. Set Black Optimizer to dark room or auto.

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post #2171 of 2185 Old 07-08-2014, 09:12 AM
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Turn off dynamic contrast and black tone. Set Black Optimizer to dark room or auto.
Thanks I'll try that tonight
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post #2172 of 2185 Old 07-10-2014, 02:04 PM
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Anyone find optimal settings for sports? Golf? Hockey? Football etc
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post #2173 of 2185 Old 07-11-2014, 11:02 PM
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I've always found the best settings for one content is the best settings for all content.


if my display is set as 'accurately' as possible, then all content should look as natural as possible. some channels 'tweak' settings and it's annoying, but if I dial back contrast for one channel, it'll make the rest look wrong. I just try to find better sources possible, and if not the 'tweaks' are simply done by eye, and never saved.
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post #2174 of 2185 Old 07-17-2014, 04:29 AM
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I was looking around for a way to measure 75% saturation in Calman and found where you can go to quick analysis workflow, and select saturation. This brings up a screen where you can pick a color (bottom left), select a saturation level (defaults to 20% increments) and measure in continuous mode while you adjust the F8500. I experimented using an 80% level and liked the look not to mention that the little balls in Calman appear to line up in the boxes better. Additionally, while in this workflow, you can open up "Workflow Basic Options" and in Saturation Sweeps select 5%, 10%, 20%, 25%, etc sweeps which basically means that you can pick a lot of other other saturation targets if you so wanted to.

One thing that I'm having a problem with that maybe someone could help out with is that I don't see any pattern to how applying setting to all inputs work. It doesn't seem to work on all settings and I'd rather not manually enter setting into all the inputs.

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post #2175 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 04:42 AM
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Hi all,

Is anyone able to share their calibration settings for the 64F8500. I'd love to get started and see what it can do with someones day & night settings. (if it helps, we have a very bright room during the day)

Thank you!!
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post #2176 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 11:18 AM
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warm 1

good to see this thread alive and well for those of us late to the F8500 game ! so is it a felony punishable by death to calibrate this in warm 1 ? i just can't get over the greenish whites in warm 2 though I'm sure after all the tweaks is a perfect 6500K , I know Chad B had used warm 1 with a -1 gamma in his review but everyone else is using warm 2.
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post #2177 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macroblocker View Post
good to see this thread alive and well for those of us late to the F8500 game ! so is it a felony punishable by death to calibrate this in warm 1 ? i just can't get over the greenish whites in warm 2 though I'm sure after all the tweaks is a perfect 6500K , I know Chad B had used warm 1 with a -1 gamma in his review but everyone else is using warm 2.
OOTB, warm1 is better than warm2. What type of calibration are you considering? The full 10 point with meter and software, or WOW disc? If using WOW disc, then calibrate using Warm1. Professionally calibrating, Warm2 seems to be the starting point.
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post #2178 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 11:39 AM
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OOTB, warm1 is better than warm2. What type of calibration are you considering? The full 10 point with meter and software, or WOW disc? If using WOW disc, then calibrate using Warm1. Professionally calibrating, Warm2 seems to be the starting point.
well the only disc in my possession right now is a DVE disc , i guess a bit old ....ready for a laugh its the HD DVD version
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post #2179 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 11:41 AM
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well the only disc in my possession right now is a DVE disc , i guess a bit old ....ready for a laugh its the HD DVD version
Interesting......I thought I was the only one that bought into HD DVD.

Now I know they're two of us. lol

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post #2180 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 11:51 AM
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Interesting......I thought I was the only one that bought into HD DVD.

Now I know they're two of us. lol
i have the A1 and A35 player all still working but i digress lol off topic i know
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post #2181 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 11:53 AM
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Interesting......I thought I was the only one that bought into HD DVD.

Now I know they're two of us. lol

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post #2182 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 12:25 PM
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I just gave my HD DVD player as a free add-on to the guy who bought my rear projection set, which I sold after buying the F8500. I included the HD DVD DVE disc. The player had nice upscaling, but we watch Blu ray or downloaded hi-def pretty much exclusively these days.
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post #2183 of 2185 Old 07-18-2014, 01:19 PM
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I just gave my HD DVD player as a free add-on to the guy who bought my rear projection set, which I sold after buying the F8500. I included the HD DVD DVE disc. The player had nice upscaling, but we watch Blu ray or downloaded hi-def pretty much exclusively these days.
same here as far as downloaded or streamed HD / Blu ray , is the WOW disc more or less the same as the DVE or just less wordy and more basic ?
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post #2184 of 2185 Old 07-20-2014, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macroblocker View Post
same here as far as downloaded or streamed HD / Blu ray , is the WOW disc more or less the same as the DVE or just less wordy and more basic ?
This is not an answer to your question, but the WOW disk's BASIC "calibration" is good, and the WOW disk is widely already owned my many AVS members. There is also a pixel "flipper?" that is sometimes used to get rid of image retention or to try to revive stuck \ dead pixels.

For a professional calibration, my impression is that the Spears and Munsil 2 Blu-ray is preferred.
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post #2185 of 2185 Old 07-20-2014, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
I was looking around for a way to measure 75% saturation in Calman and found where you can go to quick analysis workflow, and select saturation. This brings up a screen where you can pick a color (bottom left), select a saturation level (defaults to 20% increments) and measure in continuous mode while you adjust the F8500. I experimented using an 80% level and liked the look not to mention that the little balls in Calman appear to line up in the boxes better. Additionally, while in this workflow, you can open up "Workflow Basic Options" and in Saturation Sweeps select 5%, 10%, 20%, 25%, etc sweeps which basically means that you can pick a lot of other other saturation targets if you so wanted to.

One thing that I'm having a problem with that maybe someone could help out with is that I don't see any pattern to how applying setting to all inputs work. It doesn't seem to work on all settings and I'd rather not manually enter setting into all the inputs.
Have found using 75% Saturation, 75% Stimulus and changing Calman's dE2000 to dE94 (dE1994) giving faster, and better AutoCal results on both my iScan Duo and Radiance Systems. Calman has a NEW dE2000 + coming soon that they say will knock your socks off!?
Have been waiting for all the lastest Liumagen FW updates to finally settle down before having another go at the F8500 with the Radiance XS-3D.
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