F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 75 - AVS Forum
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post #2221 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 07:39 AM
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Since I have a new plasma and I have to wait to get it professionally calibrated, is it best to use a config from this thread, or just run the Disney WOW and calibrate it that way?
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post #2222 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
http://youtu.be/w0qQMvMkqws?list=UUw...JwVmQioyXfC5Uw

Watch at ~23 Min in is where the modes are described....
That's a pretty darn light description/explanation. I guess I will have to get some different patterns and do my own testing.
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post #2223 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
That's a pretty darn light description/explanation. I guess I will have to get some different patterns and do my own testing.

They don't really go into detail, just what they do
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post #2224 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 10:10 AM
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Seems more like what someone thinks they do.
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post #2225 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
Seems more like what someone thinks they do.

Well since he was able to prove it with his test patterns not sure how much "thinking" is needed. There was a consensus agreement between the calibrators there were there of which to use when.
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post #2226 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParityBit View Post
Since I have a new plasma and I have to wait to get it professionally calibrated, is it best to use a config from this thread, or just run the Disney WOW and calibrate it that way?
either works.


what I've done is plug in a config from this thread and used that as my starting point. adjusting things like brightness/contrast/tint/color are easy to do with a test disc, so I would always adjust those after. but doing a 10pt color is not possible without a meter, so I plugged in those values, and then loaded up a greyscale ramp. if it looks smooth, you're done. when I did, I noticed some green tint partway through, so I went back into the 10pt calibration and 'fiddled' with the values until it blended in. definitely not ideal, but I assume if the other 9pts lined up, I'm still better off than using the default values. warm2 is WAY off, and warm1 is a touch blue.

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post #2227 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
either works.


what I've done is plug in a config from this thread and used that as my starting point. adjusting things like brightness/contrast/tint/color are easy to do with a test disc, so I would always adjust those after. but doing a 10pt color is not possible without a meter, so I plugged in those values, and then loaded up a greyscale ramp. if it looks smooth, you're done. when I did, I noticed some green tint partway through, so I went back into the 10pt calibration and 'fiddled' with the values until it blended in. definitely not ideal, but I assume if the other 9pts lined up, I'm still better off than using the default values. warm2 is WAY off, and warm1 is a touch blue.
Okay sounds good. Who's did you start with? I was going to try MightMouseusf. I figure I should take down my default settings first though because I am sure I will screw it all up.
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post #2228 of 3533 Old 07-30-2014, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ParityBit View Post
Okay sounds good. Who's did you start with? I was going to try MightMouseusf. I figure I should take down my default settings first though because I am sure I will screw it all up.
I honestly don't remember, it was so long ago.


you can reset to defaults easily through the menu, but if you've made any changes before hand, it might be useful to have a record of those settings.


also, note that in the menu you can select an option that says something like 'apply settings to all inputs'. I would recommend you do this, input those settings, then turn that off. that way you can make changes to you second input for gaming without affecting the first input for movies.

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post #2229 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 06:22 AM
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I am a new member here and read most of the post in this thread for calibration of the 8500. I have a new 51" model and have tried a few of the suggested settings. I like Pi's the most but can not find his latest/final settings that he posted. If they are are still available can someone post them.
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post #2230 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 06:26 AM
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I have a question in regards to contrast, I noticed that most posting in this thread set contrast around the mid 90's but I find that very bright with cell set around 16. Will lowering contrast between 80 and 85 maintain impact overall calibration?
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post #2231 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 08:57 AM
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I've found changing basic functions like contrast and cell light changes the white balance on my set.
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post #2232 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlayx View Post
I have a question in regards to contrast, I noticed that most posting in this thread set contrast around the mid 90's but I find that very bright with cell set around 16. Will lowering contrast between 80 and 85 maintain impact overall calibration?

The experts (of which I am not one) have said that the contrast should be 95 and exactly 95, and then lower the cell light to taste.


Apparently, if you are above or below contrast 95, it will throw of one or more of the 10 pt, and you won't be able to get the grey scale correct.
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post #2233 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
The experts (of which I am not one) have said that the contrast should be 95 and exactly 95, and then lower the cell light to taste.

Apparently, if you are above or below contrast 95, it will throw of one or more of the 10 pt, and you won't be able to get the grey scale correct.
Others have said you shouldn't reduce the cell light from 20 and should use the contrast. link
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post #2234 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 04:14 PM
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as far as I know, BOTH are true.


lowering cell light is bad because it increases ABL...
lowering contrast is bad because it shifts the 10pt color calibration...


I decided to turn eco mode to low, does the trick for me. but I'm willing to bet that there's also a reason why one should never do this... it really feels like that's is no good way to adjust the peak brightness of a Samsung plasma??

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post #2235 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
as far as I know, BOTH are true.


lowering cell light is bad because it increases ABL...
lowering contrast is bad because it shifts the 10pt color calibration...


I decided to turn eco mode to low, does the trick for me. but I'm willing to bet that there's also a reason why one should never do this... it really feels like that's is no good way to adjust the peak brightness of a Samsung plasma??
I put a dimmable 6500K bias light behind my 64" and left the Cell Light at 20 & the contrast at 95. Problem solved.
RyanHomsey and KONICA TECH like this.
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post #2236 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
I put a dimmable 6500K bias light behind my 64" and left the Cell Light at 20 & the contrast at 95. Problem solved.
depends on what your problem is I guess. I don't like seeing my room around the tv, so for me, that's like washing the dirt off my car with dog poop, haha. I'd consider it a step backwards to add more light to my room, I've already painted all the walls around the tv black, and even after that i'm considering velvet.

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post #2237 of 3533 Old 07-31-2014, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
I put a dimmable 6500K bias light behind my 64" and left the Cell Light at 20 & the contrast at 95. Problem solved.
I use no bias light, contrast at 95, cell light at 20, in a dark room. Perfect.
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post #2238 of 3533 Old 08-01-2014, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
I use no bias light, contrast at 95, cell light at 20, in a dark room. Perfect.
Perceptually, mine is a little bright in the dark. I haven't metered it yet. However, the bigger reason for the bias light is minimizing the visibility of the black glow.
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post #2239 of 3533 Old 08-01-2014, 05:51 AM
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I have not calibrated mine yet, but I have 95 contrast and 20 sell light also. So far I love the picture.

I am hoping to give Disney WOW a run this weekend.
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post #2240 of 3533 Old 08-01-2014, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
Perceptually, mine is a little bright in the dark. I haven't metered it yet. However, the bigger reason for the bias light is minimizing the visibility of the black glow.
I agree. Bias lights will reduce the plasma glow. It will give the appearance of deeper blacks.
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post #2241 of 3533 Old 08-01-2014, 03:35 PM
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Where can I get the Service Manual ?

I'm having a hard time to get blue and gamma values calibrated.

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post #2242 of 3533 Old 08-01-2014, 04:30 PM
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Hard time on gamma and colors.

I'm using "auto-calibration", but not getting better results so far.
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post #2243 of 3533 Old 08-01-2014, 08:23 PM
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Figured what was wrong, much better now.
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post #2244 of 3533 Old 08-02-2014, 05:36 AM
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Figured what was wrong, much better now.
I'm having trouble too, to get a flat 2.4 gamma, using the 10p white balance, your's is close, did you change the gamma settings on the tv from 0 gamma to achive that, or just leave it at 0 and ajusted on 10p white balance.

Your pre gamma is all over the the place never seen it like that, in what mode are you calibrating?

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post #2245 of 3533 Old 08-03-2014, 10:25 PM
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I'm just using auto-calibration mode, I have RadianceMini too.

Now I'm tweaking. My gamma is at 0 (zero). Just put Tint (G/R) into G52/R48.

Picture Mode: Movie
Cell Light: 17
Contrast: 92
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 50
Color: 43 (until 45 is acceptable to me)

Advanced Setting: all off
Color Space: Custom

Picture Options: Warm2
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Black optimizer: Dark room
All the rest off

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post #2246 of 3533 Old 08-03-2014, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Gradius2 View Post
I'm just using auto-calibration mode, I have RadianceMini too.

Now I'm tweaking.
...
Sharpness: 50
...
All the rest off

The only setting that stands out like a sore thumb is your Sharpness. Normal sharpness for Samsung tv's is 0. Some like to bump it up to 5 or 6, but 50 is about 50 times too much sharpness.
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post #2247 of 3533 Old 08-03-2014, 11:07 PM
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For a fee Value Electronics will calibrate your new Samsung F8500. You can chose between Kevin Miller and Dewayne Davis as calibrators. Would you have a preference? Thanks!
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post #2248 of 3533 Old 08-04-2014, 09:51 AM
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For a fee Value Electronics will calibrate your new Samsung F8500. You can chose between Kevin Miller and Dewayne Davis as calibrators. Would you have a preference? Thanks!
Both are excellent. I would choose Dewayne (DNice) by a slight margin.
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post #2249 of 3533 Old 08-04-2014, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 9179mhb View Post
Does anyone know or can someone go in to their service menu:

Option --> MRT Option

and tell me what the default setting for "Front Color" is (should be)?

I may have changed the default setting but I'm not sure, TIA.
Did you ever get a reply to this? I've got a PN60F8500 and I'm in the same boat. I do not know if I've changed this or not. It's currently set to P-W-D-85, but that may have been changed.

Does anyone know, or can anyone check please?

Thanks!
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post #2250 of 3533 Old 08-04-2014, 04:18 PM
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Do you guys use yr movie settings for cable and sports too?
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