^ Sound advice above from wxman.
Originally Posted by dougdabbs
Let me just say, the knowledge dropped in this post was outstanding! It will help me A LOT when I get my F8500 delivered. Thank you!
FYI, those tips were mainly for photosensitive types like myself, who get a little overwhelmed by the brightness of these displays, esp. on the smaller models. So take the add'l tips here with a grain of salt, since I don't actually own an F8500.
Originally Posted by dougdabbs
I should be expecting my new 64" F8500 to be delivered in the next few days. I'm not going to get it calibrated (too expensive), but was going to plug in some 10pt and 2pt numbers into the settings. However, even seeing the settings for Kevin Miller's calibration on two different units, but the same model and size, proves how different each tv and be and why it should only be used if you get it properly calibrated. So I'll stick to the 95 contrast, etc.
My question is, if I go this route, is there any benefit to using break in slides for the first 100 hours (I did for my VT30 to plug in D-Nice's settings)? If not, would if be best to plug in my settings and just enjoy it (Of course, eliminating anamorphic films for the first 100 hours...)? Should I wait to let the panel "break in?"
IMO, all of the Sammy panels are highly susceptible
to burn-in when new. If you're going to use slides or whatever to accelerate the break-in/fading of the phosphors, just be careful how you do it. And I would try to minimize the viewing of letter/pillarboxed content during at least the first few months of use. I would not linger in the TVs menus too long with Cell Light set to high levels as well.
If you own one of the larger displays, and want more
light output, then basically do the opposite of what I suggested in my last post, except for the Brightness and Contrast adjustments, which simply control the black and white clip points on the display. Contrast always needs to be set high (unless you like more dithering in your picture), and Brightness should generally always be set to the MLL as described previously, unless you're in a very bright room and have difficulty making out shadow details.
If you are doing all the adjustments yourself, the Movie Picture Mode is a good place to start, esp. if you're using the TV in a room that's not very brightly lit at night. Make sure Dynamic Contrast and Eco Sensor are both turned off. Adjust the Cell Light control (or the Eco Solution/Energy Saving setting, if you prefer) to something comfortable for your eyes. And tweak Brightness as necessary to keep Y'=16 blacks at MLL.
You could also try some of the 2-Point White Balance settings recommended here, and in other F8500 threads, to get the WB a bit closer to D65. White balance is primarily dependent on the Color Tone (temperature) and refresh rate of the display. Most calibrators will use the Warm2 Color Tone setting because it's closest to 6500K. The refresh rate is determined by the Cinema Smooth setting in the Film Mode options. Cinema Smooth OFF = 60Hz. Cinema Smooth ON = 96Hz. The ON settings only applies to 24Hz inputs though. Everything else will probably display at 60Hz.
The Motion Judder Control could also effect white balance, but I don't have enough experience with that feature to make any recommendations on it (except to suggest leaving it off). The Film Mode/Cinema Smooth feature should remove 3:2 telecine judder on 24Hz inputs, but on its own, it will not apply any sort of frame interpolation/soap opera effect (like MJC) to smooth out the "in-between" frames on 24fps content. It will just refresh every frame 4 times (24*4=96Hz).
The bottom line is you need to use the same Color Tone and Cinema Smooth setting as the person recommending the 2-point WB settings, to get similar results. WB will change over time as the display is used btw, because the red, green and blue phosphors will age/grow-dimmer at somewhat different rates. So knowing the number of hours on the person's display is also helpful. The panel version on the display (A or B) could also effect WB. So knowing that is also useful.
I think some of these displays also had the Gain and Offset controls reversed, so you'll have to watch for that issue as well, if you try to copy someone else's 2-point settings.
I wouldn't bother with the 10-point WB settings unless or until you have a colorimeter, because those controls are more display-specific, and mainly useful for fine-tuning the gamma curve.
adjustment might be beneficial though. Gamut is adjusted in the Custom Color Space controls. And it's mainly dependent on the Picture Mode, Color, and Tint settings (and possibly also the panel version). IOW, you would need to match these other controls to the person recommending the Custom Color Space settings to get similar results.
Generally speaking, the default Color 50 and Tint 50/50 settings should remain as is in the Movie Mode. Color may need to be adjusted lower (to probably 44) in the Standard and Game modes. You can verify that with color bar/decoder tests, using the RGB Only Modes in the Advanced Settings (no color filters needed).
If you want someone else's Custom Color Space settings to work on your TV though, then you'll have to copy their Picture Mode, Color and Tint settings as well... even if they appear incorrect in the RGB Only Mode decoder tests.
For best results, use a colorimeter, or hire a pro calibrator to adjust all the above, because there are always variations from display to display that can effect the above results. And there is really no way to insure that the white balance, gamma and gamut (Color Space) settings are correct for your equipment without a meter.
Do not copy WB or CS settings from another Samsung model btw. Those settings will be different on the other Samsung plasma displays, because they don't have an antiglare filter like the F8500.