F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 77 - AVS Forum

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Plasma Flat Panel Displays

tboe77's Avatar tboe77
08:33 AM Liked: 127
post #2281 of 3443
08-21-2014 | Posts: 744
Joined: Jul 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonFiberGuy View Post
I've had my 64F8500 for almost a year now , and I'm very happy with the settings ,but one thing I keep going back and forth on is Cinemasmooth . I remember reading the cnet review stating it should be left off because of higher black levels . What is the general consensus for CinemaSmooth now ? Has anything changed with firmware ? I only watch blurays on this tv and just want what is considered the best picture, please let me know if you guys turn it on for 2D and 3D . I pop into this thread every couple weeks or so and usually get distracted reading something else looking for opinions on this , so I have searched . Let me know what your preferences are , thanks guys ...
I turn it on for 3D (fixes brightness pops). Otherwise it stays off. I find that 2D blu rays look perfectly natural to me, with it off. With it on, I perceive a very slight soap opera effect. It isn't much, but just enough for me to notice it, which then becomes a distraction.
Stereodude's Avatar Stereodude
11:34 AM Liked: 633
post #2282 of 3443
08-21-2014 | Posts: 10,136
Joined: Jan 2002
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonFiberGuy View Post
I've had my 64F8500 for almost a year now , and I'm very happy with the settings ,but one thing I keep going back and forth on is Cinemasmooth . I remember reading the cnet review stating it should be left off because of higher black levels . What is the general consensus for CinemaSmooth now ? Has anything changed with firmware ?
Yes, the increased black level issue when using CinemaSmooth was fixed with a firmware update.
SiGGy's Avatar SiGGy
02:25 PM Liked: 104
post #2283 of 3443
08-21-2014 | Posts: 753
Joined: Jul 2004
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post
Been there, done that.

Bottom line is some content looks better with a 2.2 gamma and other looks best with BT1886. I was under the impression that BT1886 was the defacto gamma but I find more content looking correct with 2.2.

By the way, with BT1886, don't you find the whites sometimes just a bit too hot? That's to be expected with 2.4 at the top end but just checking to see if you have the same experience.
No, not on my LCD panels. But they all have stable gamma. Plasma gamma is anything but stable. The ABL ruins it. I found using small APL patterns to hit bt.1886 gave me the best all around gamma on my samsung plasmas. Non-APL 7-12% windows for my panasonic's depending on the model.

I think to really compare gammas you need a display which has a stable gamma. No plasma has this. Simply calibrating a 2.2 gamma with different window sizes will give different results on a plasma. There does seem to be sweet spots in pattern size which give better APL coverage though...
ADU's Avatar ADU
10:16 PM Liked: 178
post #2284 of 3443
08-21-2014 | Posts: 6,484
Joined: Apr 2003
Rec. 1886 is really only intended for displays in a controlled mastering environment. It stretches the tonal range (reduces gamma) near black to compensate for a display with elevated black levels in a dark room.

If you're using any room lighting, and the blacks on the TV actually look "black" though, then you shouldn't need much gamma compensation near black, and a "flat" gamma (in the ~2.4 range) should work reasonably well.

If you change the Gamma setting on the display btw, then you must recalibrate Brightness to keep reference black (Y'=16) at the display's MLL, to prevent shadow detail from being either clipped or elevated. The lower you set the Gamma control, the higher you'll need to set the Brightness control to keep shadow detail from being clipped.

Cell Light and Contrast also effect the Brightness setting. So set Brightness last after making changes to any of the other color controls on the TV.
JR84's Avatar JR84
05:51 AM Liked: 0
post #2285 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 10
Joined: Jul 2013
Has anyone that had a green tint in warm 2 had there TV professionally calibrated?

I've tried a lot of different settings and I'm currently using D-Nice's recommendations of just using warm 1 and -1 gamma. This gets rid of the green tint but looks a bit on the cool side in bright scenes.

How many of you have a green tint in movie mode with warm 2? From all the calibration settings I've seen It seems to only affect a few of us.
wxman's Avatar wxman
06:11 AM Liked: 249
post #2286 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 1,885
Joined: Apr 2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR84 View Post
Has anyone that had a green tint in warm 2 had there TV professionally calibrated?

I've tried a lot of different settings and I'm currently using D-Nice's recommendations of just using warm 1 and -1 gamma. This gets rid of the green tint but looks a bit on the cool side in bright scenes.

How many of you have a green tint in movie mode with warm 2? From all the calibration settings I've seen It seems to only affect a few of us.
Prior to calibration, Warm 2 was too green on my tv, and was using Warm1. We switched to Warm 2 prior to calibration. Picture now looks great using warm 2 after calibration.
JR84's Avatar JR84
09:04 AM Liked: 0
post #2287 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 10
Joined: Jul 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post
Prior to calibration, Warm 2 was too green on my tv, and was using Warm1. We switched to Warm 2 prior to calibration. Picture now looks great using warm 2 after calibration.
Care to share your settings?

I would be very interested in finding out how common it is and what actually causes it. I've actually just had my panel replaced as I had the flickering issue triggered by the black optimizer and the picture looks to be identical so unless by chance I got a panel that was almost identical it could only be the main board.

All of the settings posted on here look to be from tv's that are a lot closer to spec on warm 2 than mine.
fierce_gt's Avatar fierce_gt
09:08 AM Liked: 1052
post #2288 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 4,822
Joined: Sep 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR84 View Post
Has anyone that had a green tint in warm 2 had there TV professionally calibrated?

I've tried a lot of different settings and I'm currently using D-Nice's recommendations of just using warm 1 and -1 gamma. This gets rid of the green tint but looks a bit on the cool side in bright scenes.

How many of you have a green tint in movie mode with warm 2? From all the calibration settings I've seen It seems to only affect a few of us.
default warm2 setting on mine looked terrible. I would actually say it was yellow, not green, but it bothered even me(and I'm usually not sensitive to color issues)


but after trying to compare my f8500 and projector, I realized just how 'cool' the warm1 setting is.



so after that, I decided to plug in one of the calibration settings from the calibration thread, and it used warm2 with a 10pt calibration and it's MUCH better. I had to do a few 'tweaks' afterward, as I had some definite green/red pushes along the greyscale. now I want to get my own meter to get it just right though.
NJPapi1977's Avatar NJPapi1977
11:28 AM Liked: 57
post #2289 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 640
Joined: Sep 2007
So has anyone settled on game mode over pc mode?

Is there a difference in terms of picture quality
wxman's Avatar wxman
11:56 AM Liked: 249
post #2290 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 1,885
Joined: Apr 2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR84 View Post
Care to share your settings?

I would be very interested in finding out how common it is and what actually causes it. I've actually just had my panel replaced as I had the flickering issue triggered by the black optimizer and the picture looks to be identical so unless by chance I got a panel that was almost identical it could only be the main board.

All of the settings posted on here look to be from tv's that are a lot closer to spec on warm 2 than mine.
Here are my calibrated settings for Warm2, movie mode.

CELL LIGHT 16
Contrast +95
Brightness +45
Sharpness + 6
Color 53
Tint R52


CMS

R 44 2 2
G 36 55 0
B 0 1 56
Y 51 52 1
C 35 53 57
M 45 3 51



10 POINT

R G B

1 0 0 +2
2 -3 -3 -4
3 -4 -4 -5
4 -3 -2 -2
5 -4 -3 -4
6 -5 -1 -7
7 -1 0 -2
8 -2 -1 -7
9 +3 +3 +2
10 -7 0 -5


WHITE BALANCE
OFFSET 29,25,24
GAIN 33,25,28

GAMMA +1
BO ON
COLOR TONE WARM2
FILM MODE CINEMA SMOOTH/AUTO2
MJC OFF
JR84's Avatar JR84
12:13 PM Liked: 0
post #2291 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 10
Joined: Jul 2013
Thanks a lot I'll give them a go and see what I get.

Do you know what your target gamma was?
wxman's Avatar wxman
12:18 PM Liked: 249
post #2292 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 1,885
Joined: Apr 2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR84 View Post
Thanks a lot I'll give them a go and see what I get.

Do you know what your target gamma was?
I do not remember, but gamma +1 was used because it was just about dead on OOTB.
pentium7's Avatar pentium7
05:50 PM Liked: 16
post #2293 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 391
Joined: Jun 2003
Could anyone please direct me to the best calibration settings for dark room viewing on 64F8500 ?

I've tried 2 so far but they seem more geared toward lighter situations. The display is located in master bedroom and with window treatments so there is very little light even during the day, mostly viewed at night anyway in the dark.

Thanks in advance.
fierce_gt's Avatar fierce_gt
07:05 PM Liked: 1052
post #2294 of 3443
08-22-2014 | Posts: 4,822
Joined: Sep 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJPapi1977 View Post
So has anyone settled on game mode over pc mode?

Is there a difference in terms of picture quality
yes, game mode allows FAR more calibration settings, and should result in a more accurate picture.


that being said, I use PC mode, and don't plan on going back. I find it the better overall experience for gaming, for me.
JR84's Avatar JR84
01:07 AM Liked: 0
post #2295 of 3443
08-23-2014 | Posts: 10
Joined: Jul 2013
Has anyone else that had a green tint in warm 2 want to post there calibration settings?
JimP
05:24 AM Liked: 204
post #2296 of 3443
08-23-2014 | Posts: 15,536
Joined: Sep 2002
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR84 View Post
Has anyone else that had a green tint in warm 2 want to post there calibration settings?
As you are probably aware, using other user's settings doesn't work that often but what do you have to lose?

Using Warm 2

Under white balance
Red offset 28
Green offset 25
Blue offset 25
Red gain 33
Green gain 25
Blue gain 27
neoconagenda
08:12 PM Liked: 0
post #2297 of 3443
08-23-2014 | Posts: 19
Joined: Jul 2014
Best display i have owned. Annoying but not significant is that my 10 point calibration did not carry over to the different sources and the audible feedback on the volume adjust. If anyone knows how to turn off the volume tick when adjusting please let me know.
neoconagenda
08:16 PM Liked: 0
post #2298 of 3443
08-23-2014 | Posts: 19
Joined: Jul 2014
Never mind i found it.... I am blaming this lack of reading the menu options on being distracted by the amazing picture...
ADU's Avatar ADU
10:41 PM Liked: 178
post #2299 of 3443
08-24-2014 | Posts: 6,484
Joined: Apr 2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by pentium7 View Post
Could anyone please direct me to the best calibration settings for dark room viewing on 64F8500 ?

I've tried 2 so far but they seem more geared toward lighter situations. The display is located in master bedroom and with window treatments so there is very little light even during the day, mostly viewed at night anyway in the dark.

Thanks in advance.
I suggest keeping at least a couple lamps on. The blacks on these TVs are pretty good, but they can still benefit from a little room lighting to look even deeper. They don't have to be bright lights btw. 100-200 lumen bulbs (~15-25 watts incandescent or equivalent) should be sufficient.

If the TV is still too bright for night time viewing with a couple lights on, then lower the Cell Light setting until it's more comfortable for your eyes. Lowering Gamma is also an option. That will increase the contrast in the image by darkening the midtones. You should leave the Contrast control set fairly high though, in the 95 range, because lowering Contrast will increase the dithering in the image.

On the 43F4500, I would actually start with Cell Light at 0, and then gradually raise it until the picture was comfortable for viewing. You could also try using different Eco Solution/Energy Saving settings to reduce the display's light output in addition to or instead of Cell Light, but that's not something I experimented with, and Cell Light will probably give better control. Leave the Eco Sensor off though.

I also recommend setting the Black Optimizer to Dark Room. That may add some slight fluctuations to the picture, but it should lower the MLL on darker scenes... if it's working correctly.

Last but not least, adjust the Brightness so there is no dithering visible on a reference black screen. The easiest way to do that is to display a Y'=16 black pattern on the screen, and then raise Brightness until you begin to see some dithering (dancing multi-colored pixels). Then gradually reduce the Brightness control until you get to the highest setting that has no dithering/dancing pixels visible.

If you don't have a calibration disc with a Y'=16 reference black handy for this, you can use the black bars on a widescreen film like Star Wars ANH instead, preferably in one of the darker space scenes. Some dithering within the image is ok, but there should be no dithering visible in the black bars on a film like that.

Most of the other settings above will effect the adjustment of the Brightness control. So set the Brightness last after making any other picture adjustments.

To reduce the chances of burn-in, try to keep your viewing of letterboxed and pillarboxed content to a minimum, and don't linger too long in the TV's menus while the TV is breaking in, esp. at high Cell Light settings.
Phanes's Avatar Phanes
09:20 AM Liked: 15
post #2300 of 3443
08-29-2014 | Posts: 109
Joined: May 2013
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJPapi1977 View Post
So has anyone settled on game mode over pc mode?

Is there a difference in terms of picture quality
FWIW, I have been using the Standard mode (modified to "match" Movie mode settings) for everything. I haven't experienced any lags or split screens on single-player games like the Uncharted or Batman trilogies.
dougdabbs's Avatar dougdabbs
01:27 PM Liked: 11
post #2301 of 3443
08-30-2014 | Posts: 47
Joined: Dec 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADU View Post
I suggest keeping at least a couple lamps on. The blacks on these TVs are pretty good, but they can still benefit from a little room lighting to look even deeper. They don't have to be bright lights btw. 100-200 lumen bulbs (~15-25 watts incandescent or equivalent) should be sufficient.

If the TV is still too bright for night time viewing with a couple lights on, then lower the Cell Light setting until it's more comfortable for your eyes. Lowering Gamma is also an option. That will increase the contrast in the image by darkening the midtones. You should leave the Contrast control set fairly high though, in the 95 range, because lowering Contrast will increase the dithering in the image.

On the 43F4500, I would actually start with Cell Light at 0, and then gradually raise it until the picture was comfortable for viewing. You could also try using different Eco Solution/Energy Saving settings to reduce the display's light output in addition to or instead of Cell Light, but that's not something I experimented with, and Cell Light will probably give better control. Leave the Eco Sensor off though.

I also recommend setting the Black Optimizer to Dark Room. That may add some slight fluctuations to the picture, but it should lower the MLL on darker scenes... if it's working correctly.

Last but not least, adjust the Brightness so there is no dithering visible on a reference black screen. The easiest way to do that is to display a Y'=16 black pattern on the screen, and then raise Brightness until you begin to some dithering (dancing multi-colored pixels). Then gradually reduce the Brightness control until you get to the highest setting that has no dithering/dancing pixels visible.

If you don't have a calibration disc with a Y'=16 reference black handy for this, you can use the black bars on a widescreen film like Star Wars ANH instead, preferably in one of the darker space scenes. Some dithering within the image is ok, but there should be no dithering visible in the black bars on a film like that.

Most of the other settings above will effect the adjustment of the Brightness control. So set the Brightness last after making any other picture adjustments.

To reduce the chances of burn-in, try to keep your viewing of letterboxed and pillarboxed content to a minimum, and don't linger too long in the TV's menus while the TV is breaking in, esp. at high Cell Light settings.
Let me just say, the knowledge dropped in this post was outstanding! It will help me A LOT when I get my F8500 delivered. Thank you!
fierce_gt's Avatar fierce_gt
05:52 PM Liked: 1052
post #2302 of 3443
09-01-2014 | Posts: 4,822
Joined: Sep 2008
last week I got a I1D3 delivered and today I finally got a chance to try actually 'calibrating' my f8500.


first, I want to say that I had plugged in 2 different settings from this thread, both of which needed a bit of 'tweaking' but looked great to my eyes. and when I checked, neither was even close. so I don't expect anybody else to find mine super useful either, but why not share anyway?


I have been struggling with a 'best' way to reduce the brightness of this panel. with the meter I quickly checked the effects of reducing cell light, turning on eco mode, and reducing contrast. the results were terrible, worse, and pretty bad


cell light probably could have worked too, but it made the default movie setting way off on greyscale and gamma
eco mode also changed the greyscale and gamma a ton
reducing the contrast didn't make a lot of changes to the defaults, but greatly increased the difficulty of adjusting from here on after(i'll explain in a bit)


so, I dropped my contrast down to 90, and set brightness, color, tint 'by eye' with the test pattern, and began my readings with these settings:
Picture mode: Movie
Cell light: 20
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 41
Sharpness: 0
Color: 47
Tint: 50
Dynamic Contrast: off
Black tone: off
Flesh tone: 0
Color Space: auto
White Balance: see below
10p white balance: see below
Gamma: 0(I decided to go for a 'middle ground' of 2.3 to start off, may change this, and hopefully moving the gamma to -1 or 1 shifts it nicely)
color tone: warm2
digital clean view: off
MPEG noise filter: off
film mode:auto2(just left this, not sure)
MJC: off
BO: dark room


intial readings
color temp:

gamma:

greyscale:

RGB graph:





now the problem with reducing contrast is that it also shifts the 10pt controls. 1 is more like 1.1, and 2 more like 2.2, etc, and 10 basically does nothing. this makes it REALLY hard to adjust things in the middle. something that's 'off' on 5, is almost unfixable. so I tried a lot of different things, but found the more I tweaked with the 10pt controls, the more issues I ended up having.
so after a while, I managed to get a pretty darn good calibration. I wrote down the settings, and continued to tweak though. I thought I might be able to get better if I adjusted the 2pt controls slightly and went from there. however, looking back, I might plug these values back in and just fix the issues at 80% and up(which should be possible I think).
color temp:

gamma:

greyscale/settings:

RGB graph:



after adjusting the 2pt and going back to the 10pt controls, this is what I have so far. I have not touched the color at all yet, but after doing the greyscale/gamma, it's 'close' already.
color temp:

gamma:

greyscale/settings:

RGB graph:

CIE graph:



I have to say, I'm pretty happy with the results so far, but I'm way too addicted to this whole thing. I keep thinking 'one more tweak, one more tweak will perfect it', haha.
chunon's Avatar chunon
08:13 PM Liked: 551
post #2303 of 3443
09-01-2014 | Posts: 5,319
Joined: Dec 2007
Are you not using the cms ? Most sets with a cms do not require manipulation of the color or tint control .
fierce_gt's Avatar fierce_gt
10:09 PM Liked: 1052
post #2304 of 3443
09-01-2014 | Posts: 4,822
Joined: Sep 2008
ok, yeah, I may need intervention soon. got home early from my long weekend trip(too much rain) and I've basically done nothing but mess around with greyscale and gamma for the past 10hrs. and in all honesty, it probably hasn't gotten significantly better in the last 8.5hrs, haha.


it's like trying to go for a new 'high score', just too addictive!


but I've settled in with these settings for now. and the stuff I've watched off the kuro demo disc looks incredible
64PNF8500, Apr 2013, FW 1120
Picture mode: Movie
Cell light: 20
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 41
Sharpness: 0
Color: 47
Tint: 50
Dynamic Contrast: off
Black tone: off
Flesh tone: 0
Color Space: custom
-RED: 70, 0, 0
-GREEN: 25, 70, 0
-BLUE: 0, 0, 68
-YELLOW: 63, 62, 0
-CYAN: 11, 50, 50
-MAGENTA: 50, 3, 61
White Balance:
-RO: 32
-GO: 24
-BO: 25
-RG: 32
-GG: 23
-BG: 26
10p white balance:
-1: 2, 0, 1
-2: 5, 4, 3
-3: 5, 2, 2
-4: 4, 2, 5
-5: 4, 1, 2
-6: 4, -1, 2
-7: 1, -1, 5
-8: -1, -7, -3
-9: -1, -7, 1
-10: -1, -1. -1(I don't think this one actually does anything when contrast is at 90)
Gamma: 0
color tone: warm2
digital clean view: off
MPEG noise filter: off
film mode:auto2
MJC: off
BO: dark room


my results:








on a side note, not sure if anybody else has experienced this, but I almost lost my mind when I made a tiny 'tweak' of 1 value to the GREEN at 80% and suddenly ended up with a graph that looked like this:

fortunately, before I panicked too much, I decided to turn the tv off and on again(I knew there's no way my setting could have done this), and that seemed to fix the issue. no idea what it was about, the tv just stopped working properly and needed to be restarted for some reason
fierce_gt's Avatar fierce_gt
10:10 PM Liked: 1052
post #2305 of 3443
09-01-2014 | Posts: 4,822
Joined: Sep 2008
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post
Are you not using the cms ? Most sets with a cms do not require manipulation of the color or tint control .
have not got into the cms YET. I will soon though. baby steps, haha.
chunon's Avatar chunon
07:36 AM Liked: 551
post #2306 of 3443
09-02-2014 | Posts: 5,319
Joined: Dec 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
have not got into the cms YET. I will soon though. baby steps, haha.
You can significantly improve your color gamut with those controls good luck
jhw59's Avatar jhw59
09:44 AM Liked: 10
post #2307 of 3443
09-02-2014 | Posts: 66
Joined: Dec 2006
My new 51" 8500 will be in da house soon so could a kind poster point me to the latest and greatest recommended settings? Also, should I download and run slides as I did with my Panny plasma a couple of years ago? Thank you very much everyone!!
dougdabbs's Avatar dougdabbs
09:07 PM Liked: 11
post #2308 of 3443
09-02-2014 | Posts: 47
Joined: Dec 2011
I should be expecting my new 64" F8500 to be delivered in the next few days. I'm not going to get it calibrated (too expensive), but was going to plug in some 10pt and 2pt numbers into the settings. However, even seeing the settings for Kevin Miller's calibration on two different units, but the same model and size, proves how different each tv and be and why it should only be used if you get it properly calibrated. So I'll stick to the 95 contrast, etc.

My question is, if I go this route, is there any benefit to using break in slides for the first 100 hours (I did for my VT30 to plug in D-Nice's settings)? If not, would if be best to plug in my settings and just enjoy it (Of course, eliminating anamorphic films for the first 100 hours...)? Should I wait to let the panel "break in?"

Thoughts?
wxman's Avatar wxman
10:52 PM Liked: 249
post #2309 of 3443
09-02-2014 | Posts: 1,885
Joined: Apr 2003
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougdabbs View Post
I should be expecting my new 64" F8500 to be delivered in the next few days. I'm not going to get it calibrated (too expensive), but was going to plug in some 10pt and 2pt numbers into the settings. However, even seeing the settings for Kevin Miller's calibration on two different units, but the same model and size, proves how different each tv and be and why it should only be used if you get it properly calibrated. So I'll stick to the 95 contrast, etc.

My question is, if I go this route, is there any benefit to using break in slides for the first 100 hours (I did for my VT30 to plug in D-Nice's settings)? If not, would if be best to plug in my settings and just enjoy it (Of course, eliminating anamorphic films for the first 100 hours...)? Should I wait to let the panel "break in?"

Thoughts?
If you don't plan to calibrate, and even if you did, just normal viewing for the first 150-200 hours, without letterbox movies is all you need. You can try plugging some of the white balance numbers from this thread to see if you like it, but stay away from plugging in someone else's 10 point numbers. You will probably prefer Warm1 over Warm2 since you are not getting it calibrated. Warm 2 definitively has a very warm push until it's calibrated.
ADU's Avatar ADU
11:03 PM Liked: 178
post #2310 of 3443
09-02-2014 | Posts: 6,484
Joined: Apr 2003
^ Sound advice above from wxman.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougdabbs View Post
Let me just say, the knowledge dropped in this post was outstanding! It will help me A LOT when I get my F8500 delivered. Thank you!
FYI, those tips were mainly for photosensitive types like myself, who get a little overwhelmed by the brightness of these displays, esp. on the smaller models. So take the add'l tips here with a grain of salt, since I don't actually own an F8500.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougdabbs View Post
I should be expecting my new 64" F8500 to be delivered in the next few days. I'm not going to get it calibrated (too expensive), but was going to plug in some 10pt and 2pt numbers into the settings. However, even seeing the settings for Kevin Miller's calibration on two different units, but the same model and size, proves how different each tv and be and why it should only be used if you get it properly calibrated. So I'll stick to the 95 contrast, etc.

My question is, if I go this route, is there any benefit to using break in slides for the first 100 hours (I did for my VT30 to plug in D-Nice's settings)? If not, would if be best to plug in my settings and just enjoy it (Of course, eliminating anamorphic films for the first 100 hours...)? Should I wait to let the panel "break in?"

Thoughts?
IMO, all of the Sammy panels are highly susceptible to burn-in when new. If you're going to use slides or whatever to accelerate the break-in/fading of the phosphors, just be careful how you do it. And I would try to minimize the viewing of letter/pillarboxed content during at least the first few months of use. I would not linger in the TVs menus too long with Cell Light set to high levels as well.

If you own one of the larger displays, and want more light output, then basically do the opposite of what I suggested in my last post, except for the Brightness and Contrast adjustments, which simply control the black and white clip points on the display. Contrast always needs to be set high (unless you like more dithering in your picture), and Brightness should generally always be set to the MLL as described previously, unless you're in a very bright room and have difficulty making out shadow details.

If you are doing all the adjustments yourself, the Movie Picture Mode is a good place to start, esp. if you're using the TV in a room that's not very brightly lit at night. Make sure Dynamic Contrast and Eco Sensor are both turned off. Adjust the Cell Light control (or the Eco Solution/Energy Saving setting, if you prefer) to something comfortable for your eyes. And tweak Brightness as necessary to keep Y'=16 blacks at MLL.

You could also try some of the 2-Point White Balance settings recommended here, and in other F8500 threads, to get the WB a bit closer to D65. White balance is primarily dependent on the Color Tone (temperature) and refresh rate of the display. Most calibrators will use the Warm2 Color Tone setting because it's closest to 6500K. The refresh rate is determined by the Cinema Smooth setting in the Film Mode options. Cinema Smooth OFF = 60Hz. Cinema Smooth ON = 96Hz. The ON settings only applies to 24Hz inputs though. Everything else will probably display at 60Hz.

The Motion Judder Control could also effect white balance, but I don't have enough experience with that feature to make any recommendations on it (except to suggest leaving it off). The Film Mode/Cinema Smooth feature should remove 3:2 telecine judder on 24Hz inputs, but on its own, it will not apply any sort of frame interpolation/soap opera effect (like MJC) to smooth out the "in-between" frames on 24fps content. It will just refresh every frame 4 times (24*4=96Hz).

The bottom line is you need to use the same Color Tone and Cinema Smooth setting as the person recommending the 2-point WB settings, to get similar results. WB will change over time as the display is used btw, because the red, green and blue phosphors will age/grow-dimmer at somewhat different rates. So knowing the number of hours on the person's display is also helpful. The panel version on the display (A or B) could also effect WB. So knowing that is also useful.

I think some of these displays also had the Gain and Offset controls reversed, so you'll have to watch for that issue as well, if you try to copy someone else's 2-point settings.

I wouldn't bother with the 10-point WB settings unless or until you have a colorimeter, because those controls are more display-specific, and mainly useful for fine-tuning the gamma curve.

Some gamut adjustment might be beneficial though. Gamut is adjusted in the Custom Color Space controls. And it's mainly dependent on the Picture Mode, Color, and Tint settings (and possibly also the panel version). IOW, you would need to match these other controls to the person recommending the Custom Color Space settings to get similar results.

Generally speaking, the default Color 50 and Tint 50/50 settings should remain as is in the Movie Mode. Color may need to be adjusted lower (to probably 44) in the Standard and Game modes. You can verify that with color bar/decoder tests, using the RGB Only Modes in the Advanced Settings (no color filters needed).

If you want someone else's Custom Color Space settings to work on your TV though, then you'll have to copy their Picture Mode, Color and Tint settings as well... even if they appear incorrect in the RGB Only Mode decoder tests.

For best results, use a colorimeter, or hire a pro calibrator to adjust all the above, because there are always variations from display to display that can effect the above results. And there is really no way to insure that the white balance, gamma and gamut (Color Space) settings are correct for your equipment without a meter.
Do not copy WB or CS settings from another Samsung model btw. Those settings will be different on the other Samsung plasma displays, because they don't have an antiglare filter like the F8500.
Tags: Samsung Pn51f8500 51 Inch 3d Smart Plasma Hdtv

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