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post #2491 of 2516 Old 10-10-2014, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
I also have mine on low.
Fierce, I'm confused. I thought you said that ECO Low destroyed your cal.

When I was breaking in my 64", I didn't know that ECO would dim, so I set Cell down in order to keep panel temp reasonable. Now I run Cell 14 or 15 (D-Nice cal) depending on source, and ECO is Off.

Perhaps I should have said ECO High should only be considered for the first 100 - 300 hours?
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post #2492 of 2516 Old 10-10-2014, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WantsNWarrants View Post
Fierce, I'm confused. I thought you said that ECO Low destroyed your cal.

When I was breaking in my 64", I didn't know that ECO would dim, so I set Cell down in order to keep panel temp reasonable. Now I run Cell 14 or 15 (D-Nice cal) depending on source, and ECO is Off.

Perhaps I should have said ECO High should only be considered for the first 100 - 300 hours?
it changed everything, yes.

but I started from scratch(as I suspected I had other issues as well) and decided to try leaving the eco mode on low, and leaving the contrast higher(95)

the result was that I was able to still get good results, but the 10pt calibration lined up better, so it actually too me a lot less time.

the thing is, you can't just turn it on and have a lower brightness, and then turn it off for daytime viewing. the greyscale and gamma are affected by it, so you have to do the full calibration. adjusting cell light or contrast APPEARS to be a less destructive method of adjusting overall brightness. but I haven't really looked into it with that much detail to say which is better, or if either is really practical.

but based on the little testing I've done so far. I think adjusting the cell light or turning eco to low, would be better solutions than turning down contrast. just because turning down contrast makes calibration much harder. with contrast set to 90, I effectively only had a 8.5pt calibration, haha. and of those two, cell light obviously gives you more options so more likely you can dial in your preferred luminance. eco set to low just happened to give me about 35ftl before I started adjusting gamma, so I felt that was close enough. the reason I wanted to give eco a try is that I noticed it's not actually any dimmer than off when displaying full screen high APL content(like a website). but with mid APL stuff it does dim. so from how i'm looking at that, it appears to 'hide' abl behavior, since it's almost like it's always dimmed.

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Last edited by fierce_gt; 10-10-2014 at 10:03 AM.
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post #2493 of 2516 Old 10-12-2014, 08:22 AM
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I just received my 51" F8500 and Im trying to get it dialed in. Im in a bright room with big windows and Im primarily watching live sports on it. All the settings I have found so far just dont seem right for sports, more for movies. Ive tried to look through this thread but there are tons of posts, if anyone can point me to some setttings for bright room and live sports Id appreciate it! Until then Ill keep playing around with settings. Thanks!
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post #2494 of 2516 Old 10-12-2014, 10:21 AM
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New 64" arriving today

I too am trying to find calibration settings. I have seen many different ones. One thing that i read said to keep the contrast down to 50 during break in? I would like to set up the display as good as possible for now and then get it calibrated after it has 20 to 300 hours on it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
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post #2495 of 2516 Old 10-12-2014, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfixit58 View Post
I too am trying to find calibration settings. I have seen many different ones. One thing that i read said to keep the contrast down to 50 during break in? I would like to set up the display as good as possible for now and then get it calibrated after it has 20 to 300 hours on it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
50 seems SUPER excessive, that can't be a recommendation for Samsung(or the guy doesn't know what he's talking about)


just have some common sense. it'll give you plenty of warning that something is wrong. if you see hints of IR, watch more full screen stuff.


there's no point in PAYING for a calibration until after 300-500hrs, but there's no reason not to do your own. the reason they advise you wait is not because watching a calibrated display will be damaging, but because the phosphors 'age' and shift significantly in the first few hundred hours and the calibration won't remain accurate for long during this 'break in' period.

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post #2496 of 2516 Old 10-13-2014, 08:30 AM
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What about keeping the cell light lower during break in. Is that a better idea?
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post #2497 of 2516 Old 10-13-2014, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfixit58 View Post
What about keeping the cell light lower during break in. Is that a better idea?
it's not so much that one is better than the other, it's just not likely to be necessary.


but if you want to 'play it safe' I'd either reduce the cell light or turn eco mode to low. I just wouldn't say either is necessary. so if you find the image too dim, don't be afraid to turn it up so you can use the tv and enjoy it

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post #2498 of 2516 Old 10-13-2014, 05:50 PM
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Thanks
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post #2499 of 2516 Old 10-15-2014, 06:21 PM
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For anyone who uses an HTPC as their source, do you have the video card do the 1080i to 1080p conversion or feed the TV 1080i and let it do the conversion? My viewing is almost exclusively OTA and cable programming.
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post #2500 of 2516 Old 10-15-2014, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcn View Post
For anyone who uses an HTPC as their source, do you have the video card do the 1080i to 1080p conversion or feed the TV 1080i and let it do the conversion? My viewing is almost exclusively OTA and cable programming.
Let the PC handle it and just output 1080p. Otherwise you are going to be converting your 720p/60 sources to 1080i and then back to 1080p.
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post #2501 of 2516 Old 10-15-2014, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Cozmo85 View Post
Let the PC handle it and just output 1080p. Otherwise you are going to be converting your 720p/60 sources to 1080i and then back to 1080p.
Had forgotten that, thanks.
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post #2502 of 2516 Old 10-15-2014, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcn View Post
Had forgotten that, thanks.
Also i recommend hiding your taskbar, turning off desktop icons, set your wallpaper to cycling breakin slides, and enable the windows screensaver, just in case..
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post #2503 of 2516 Old 10-15-2014, 07:03 PM
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Really Loving 51" 8500!

Settings
I have tried a few different settings for the 8500 that I have found here on avsforums with mixed results. Yesterday I adjusted my settings to those detailed by GLENEE (had to open up the Service Menu and adjust to CAL DAY - not as tricky as what I had been thinking) and I am really enjoying the TV adjusted this way. We watched Wolverine on Blu Ray last night and it looked incredible!

Break In
My TV is less than 1 week old so I turn the cell light down to 10 or so and run slides via Apple TV screensaver when we are not using the TV.

Calibration
This is by far the most gorgeous picture I have ever seen on a TV (owned by me) and I am excited about the possibility that it could be a bit better! I have never had a professional calibration before but I plan to do this once I am confident the TV has been broken in. Should I coordinate through Best Buy? Other thoughts?

Another 8500?
We are remodeling our basement this winter and I plan to purchase some "larger" screen TV - if the 64" 8500 is still available I may consider purchasing it for our basement - another possibility might be the 70" Vizio P Series.
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post #2504 of 2516 Old 10-15-2014, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozmo85 View Post
Also i recommend hiding your taskbar, turning off desktop icons, set your wallpaper to cycling breakin slides, and enable the windows screensaver, just in case..
Generally I don't use the htpc as a regular computer and most times turn off the monitor and avr when not actively watching; I appreciate your suggestions.
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post #2505 of 2516 Old 10-16-2014, 11:53 PM
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Hi guys,

I just ordered the PN64F8500 and it should be here in a week or so. Can someone please point me to a step by step break in guide for it? I've never owned a plasma but I've seen references here to some slides and ~300ish hours of break in time before doing calibration settings. I have no clue what I should do so any help on a step by step process would really help me out and I would really appreciate it.

Also are there ideal settings for day mode, night mode, sports mode, movie mode?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2506 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 01:01 AM
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Why don't you guys just get a darbee processor and be done with it with picture setting etc?

Also, I was wondering why plasma is becoming extinct if it has such better picture over led or lcd?


Thank you.

Last edited by NAIM101; 10-18-2014 at 01:53 AM.
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post #2507 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NAIM101 View Post
Why don't you guys just get a darbee processor and be done with it with picture setting etc?

Also, I was wondering why plasma is becoming distinct if it has such better picture over led or lcd?


Thank you.
the darbee is a processor entirely separate to calibrating your display. doing one does not replace the other. in fact I'd say adding a darbee would just add one more setting to obsess over, haha.


plasma is becoming extinct because the market has chosen cheap/thin/bright over picture quality for years. there's a lot of debate as to WHY that's happened, but the only facts we have to go by is that led outsells plasma about 10 to 1 right now.
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post #2508 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 01:54 AM
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Is it then safe to say Plasma still has better picture than all the best led/lcd out there right now?
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post #2509 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 03:23 AM
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Just checked the output ranges on my 60" and was wondering if this is inline with what others are measuring. All measurements done after a quick cal and at 60Hz input.

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post #2510 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 04:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
the darbee is a processor entirely separate to calibrating your display. doing one does not replace the other. in fact I'd say adding a darbee would just add one more setting to obsess over, haha.


plasma is becoming extinct because the market has chosen cheap/thin/bright over picture quality for years. there's a lot of debate as to WHY that's happened, but the only facts we have to go by is that led outsells plasma about 10 to 1 right now.
Plasmas also take more power to provide a reasonably bright screen. Some countries have such restrictions as to how much power displays can consume that the manufacturers had to cripple the displays(make them darker) to.reduce power consumption....which as you can imagine wouldn't compare well to a bright LED. So what's the point in manufacturing displays that you can't sell worldwide if you need that kind of volume to be profitable? Also, with OLED, they can start the ball going again with a new display that they should compete well with plasma that they can sell everywhere.

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post #2511 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 04:38 AM
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Add in the push for 4k and the difficulty in plasmas implementing 4k.

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post #2512 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NAIM101 View Post
Is it then safe to say Plasma still has better picture than all the best led/lcd out there right now?

It depends on what your requirements are for watching the TV. While Plasma may be the best for "reference viewing" it may not work for your viewing choices or your eyes. Everyone is different and the "best" is subjective to the individual.


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post #2513 of 2516 Old 10-18-2014, 02:58 PM
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Because he removed them, I am reluctant to post pieandchips' calibration settings. but you can find them using the "Potentially useful" link in my sig.

Note that I intend to remove them if he PMs me objecting.
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post #2514 of 2516 Old Yesterday, 10:41 AM
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fierce_gt,

I am a new owner of a 51" F8500 and am thrilled with it! I do have an older 50" Samsung plasma that we also enjoy, although the F8500 is allot better!

I have done some basic setup optimization using settings of others here at AVSFORUMS, specifically Glenee and this has helped us enjoy the set even more. I want to obtain a professional calibration after our set is thoroughly broken in. I bought a Spears and Muncil disk (latest version) and I went into the basic menu where you set contrast, brightness, color, tint and sharpness. I think I adjusted the tint one notch - everything else stayed thesame. The advanced sections of the disk are numerous and I have no clue which (if any ) of these I should mess around with - any advice? Should I play around with the settings or at this point should I just wait for a professional calibration? I appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
50 seems SUPER excessive, that can't be a recommendation for Samsung(or the guy doesn't know what he's talking about)


just have some common sense. it'll give you plenty of warning that something is wrong. if you see hints of IR, watch more full screen stuff.


there's no point in PAYING for a calibration until after 300-500hrs, but there's no reason not to do your own. the reason they advise you wait is not because watching a calibrated display will be damaging, but because the phosphors 'age' and shift significantly in the first few hundred hours and the calibration won't remain accurate for long during this 'break in' period.
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post #2515 of 2516 Old Yesterday, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarends View Post
fierce_gt,

I am a new owner of a 51" F8500 and am thrilled with it! I do have an older 50" Samsung plasma that we also enjoy, although the F8500 is allot better!

I have done some basic setup optimization using settings of others here at AVSFORUMS, specifically Glenee and this has helped us enjoy the set even more. I want to obtain a professional calibration after our set is thoroughly broken in. I bought a Spears and Muncil disk (latest version) and I went into the basic menu where you set contrast, brightness, color, tint and sharpness. I think I adjusted the tint one notch - everything else stayed thesame. The advanced sections of the disk are numerous and I have no clue which (if any ) of these I should mess around with - any advice? Should I play around with the settings or at this point should I just wait for a professional calibration? I appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks


I am so not the guy to give advice on the S&M disc, haha. I did the same thing basically. I bought it when I bought my meter, hoping that it would have the patterns needed to use with the meter, but as far as I can tell, it really doesn't. I think I spent about an hour just looking at the different patterns, to see what they were. but the first time I popped it in, I just looked at it, said wtf, and 5mins later I gave up, haha. most of that stuff is way over my head, and if there's an explanation for what each pattern shows, I haven't found it(didn't really look either)


I use the avs709 disc instead. it came with instructions, and I'm already familiar with it. technically you SHOULD get the exact same results regardless of what reference disc you use, if they are truly 'reference'. the only benefit I saw with the S&M disc is that it had a lot more material to compare displays with. the avs disc is great for making changes to your settings, but the S&M has patterns/video that's useful to assess the performance of the display.


I suppose you could use some of things to decide whether you want to turn some of the features on/off like the MJC, or cinemasmooth, etc. I wasn't able to really pick out much personally, other than noticing motion looked awesome at 1080/60i, and terrible in every other format...


so I guess I would say, if you've done the brightness, contrast, color, tint, and sharpness, I don't think there's a whole lot else you can do without a meter anyway. if you want to play with some of the features to see how you like the motion for different content(a lot of ppl have cinema smooth on for 24p content, I did not like the way this looked personally) then the S&M disc could help with that. otherwise, get some hours on it, and wait for the full calibration

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post #2516 of 2516 Old Yesterday, 03:39 PM
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Did anyone ever work out what was causing the flickering at different cell light settings?

Is it still just considered a firmware bug or is there a fix?

It has made cell 16 and 17 unusable on my set so I have to calibrate to 35 or 45 ftl.
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