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post #2521 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 09:29 AM
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Hello All,
Is there any way to tone down the yellow in the Movie mode with warm 2 settings? I know I can switch to Warm 1 which adds more blue but I prefer the colors in Warm 2. Does anybody have any fine tuning settings that can achieve this?

Regards,
Jeff
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post #2522 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 10:58 AM
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post #2523 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post
Hello All,
Is there any way to tone down the yellow in the Movie mode with warm 2 settings? I know I can switch to Warm 1 which adds more blue but I prefer the colors in Warm 2. Does anybody have any fine tuning settings that can achieve this?

Regards,
Jeff
this was my results with factory Warm2 settings:



based on this you'll want to decrease green, and increase red in the 2pt white balance controls. your results will vary, but I'd suggest lower green one tick, and increase red 3-5. blue may need to be increased a bit on the high end as well, but seems ok on the low end.


there's really no replacement for a 'real' calibration with a meter and the 10pt controls though.
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post #2524 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 11:19 AM
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Hello,
Thanks for your quick response. I will try this.

Regards,
Jeff
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post #2525 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
this was my results with factory Warm2 settings:



based on this you'll want to decrease green, and increase red in the 2pt white balance controls. your results will vary, but I'd suggest lower green one tick, and increase red 3-5. blue may need to be increased a bit on the high end as well, but seems ok on the low end.



there's really no replacement for a 'real' calibration with a meter and the 10pt controls though.
Hello I currently have
I currently have Red offset 30
Green off set 24
Blue Off set 25
R gain 30
G gain 24
B gain 2
Does this look ok or do I have to dial down blue and red?
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post #2526 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 11:26 AM
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Doing a 10pt white balance. Is it best to start on warm1 or warm2?
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post #2527 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 11:37 AM
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It's best to start in the mode that gives the most accurate primary and secondary colors, and then calibrate white balance/grayscale in that mode.

If you don't have a meter, it's nearly impossible to properly calibrate white balance/gayscale by eye. Your eyes adapt too easily.

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post #2528 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post
It's best to start in the mode that gives the most accurate primary and secondary colors, and then calibrate white balance/grayscale in that mode.

If you don't have a meter, it's nearly impossible to properly calibrate white balance/gayscale by eye. Your eyes adapt too easily.
Understood,
Thanks for your reply.
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post #2529 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post
Hello I currently have
I currently have Red offset 30
Green off set 24
Blue Off set 25
R gain 30
G gain 24
B gain 2
Does this look ok or do I have to dial down blue and red?
that looks reasonable, if the image looks ok. although, I think you missed a digit on your blue gain, haha

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post #2530 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cozmo85 View Post
Doing a 10pt white balance. Is it best to start on warm1 or warm2?
probably warm2

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post #2531 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
that looks reasonable, if the image looks ok. although, I think you missed a digit on your blue gain, haha
Yes, definitely missed a digit. 25.
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Hello,
I'm new here and am having some trouble finding these answers on the threads.

A few questions:

I'm getting my new samsung 51f8500 on Thursday and wondering what settings I should use for the first few hundred hours of usage before I have my set calibrated. Like, should I turn off some settings on the unit or what mode is best for the break in period.

Also, do I NEED to run the panels in order to be able to have better results with the calibration afterwards or is that used just to speed up the process?

Sorry if I missed it, but I've been looking for the pages with some good calibrated settings for the Samsung 8500 and can't seem to find them.

Thanks for the help guys and I'm really finding this forum helpful, you guys have definitely helped me with selecting the Samsung 8500!
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post #2533 of 3081 Old 10-21-2014, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post
It's best to start in the mode that gives the most accurate primary and secondary colors, and then calibrate white balance/grayscale in that mode.

If you don't have a meter, it's nearly impossible to properly calibrate white balance/gayscale by eye. Your eyes adapt too easily.
Yea i have a meter, just wanted to save a little time if it was constant which preset was best to start on .
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post #2534 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
Just checked the output ranges on my 60" and was wondering if this is inline with what others are measuring. All measurements done after a quick cal and at 60Hz input.

Kind of. This is my 64" with Cell at 20 and Contrast at 100. I usually use Cell 20 and Contrast 86 which gives me 40 ftL which is my allround setting. My Movie is a bit brighter than yours and my Standard is a bit dimmer.
I don't use my computer as a source so this is from MCD with 6.5% Windows only. The Full screen was about 19.85 ftL with Movie. Measurements taken with free measurements.
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post #2535 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rickardl View Post
Kind of. This is my 64" with Cell at 20 and Contrast at 100. I usually use Cell 20 and Contrast 86 which gives me 40 ftL which is my allround setting. My Movie is a bit brighter than yours and my Standard is a bit dimmer.
I don't use my computer as a source so this is from MCD with 6.5% Windows only. The Full screen was about 19.85 ftL with Movie. Measurements taken with free measurements.

Thanks, I thought the standard mode was higher than what others were reporting. Perhaps the differences are the result of different firmware but they aren't large enough to worry about.
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post #2536 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaden Alexander View Post
Hello,
I'm new here and am having some trouble finding these answers on the threads.

A few questions:

I'm getting my new samsung 51f8500 on Thursday and wondering what settings I should use for the first few hundred hours of usage before I have my set calibrated. Like, should I turn off some settings on the unit or what mode is best for the break in period.

Also, do I NEED to run the panels in order to be able to have better results with the calibration afterwards or is that used just to speed up the process?

Sorry if I missed it, but I've been looking for the pages with some good calibrated settings for the Samsung 8500 and can't seem to find them.

Thanks for the help guys and I'm really finding this forum helpful, you guys have definitely helped me with selecting the Samsung 8500!
for the first bit you just need to have some common sense and use 'good' home settings(ie get rid of dynamic store settings).
to start, I'd say:
-disable any 'features' like dynamic contrast, black level, etc
-switch to movie or standard picture mode(movie preferred)
-set color temp to warm1(warm2 if you are able to adjust 2pt/10pt white balance to fix the yellow/green push)
-set contrast to 95ish
-brightness should be somewhere between about 40-50, but set this with a test pattern
-you can leave color/tint at defaults
-turn sharpness down to 0-10(user preference)
-make sure color is set to auto(not native)
-black optimizer can/should be turned on to either dark room(if you almost always watch in a dark room and find the image plenty bright) or auto(if you watch in dark and bright room lighting, or want more brightness from the panel)
-you can adjust the cell light if you wish to dim the panel(it can be VERY bright for a dark room) or try turning eco mode on to low. neither is 'necessary' though if you like the brighter image.


try to avoid unnecessarily watching scope content, 4:3 content, or anything with high contrast static images/symbols. by all means, enjoy the tv, and watch a scope bluray. but after you're done, make sure to watch some full screen content to wipe away the IR. you will likely see IR during the first few hundred hours, just don't ignore it, and it'll clear up and after a while it'll take longer than 1 or 2 movies to even get noticeable IR.


the break in slides are just used to speed up the process. running the slides is a little more controlled, so 300hrs of running slides will age all the phosphors very evenly. to ensure the same aging of all phosphors with normal content may take longer since some colors will be used more than others. it's not a bad idea to run the slides occasionally at night to speed up the process, but there's no reason not to enjoy watching content right away.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
Thanks, I thought the standard mode was higher than what others were reporting. Perhaps the differences are the result of different firmware but they aren't large enough to worry about.
What kind of patterns works best for you for grayscale and color with this plasma?
Also, what combination of Cell Light, Contrast and Black Optimizer do you use?
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post #2538 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rickardl View Post
What kind of patterns works best for you for grayscale and color with this plasma?
Also, what combination of Cell Light, Contrast and Black Optimizer do you use?
  • 8% windows with 25% APL (window size is not critical but try to keep the APL between 20-30%)
  • Movie mode contrast 95, cell = 20(day), cell = 12(night)
  • Black optimizer on
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post #2539 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
  • 8% windows with 25% APL (window size is not critical but try to keep the APL between 20-30%)
Do you know of any disc that has such patterns or similar with APL 20-30%? I would like to use my Oppo BDP-103D as the source when calibrating and not a PC...
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post #2540 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 03:48 PM
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Mascior's disk and the GCD disk both have 10% windows w/22% APL. Mascior also has 4% windows on a constant 15% luminance multistep pattern which should work well too.
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Thanks so much for the help!

Is there a link on the forum for the slides? and whats some ways of playing them on the tv? I will have the tv connected to a blu ray player. Should I burn a DVD or play it via USB?
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post #2542 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 06:34 PM
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Finally broke and bought Calman 5 and th i1 Display Pro. I couldn't figure out how to print the detailed report and all I got was this image. How decent is this for a first attempt? (I spent about 2.5 hours) I understand that you typically want a 2.2 gamma and a low DeltaE but I have no idea what the luminance means in at the bottom.
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post #2543 of 3081 Old 10-22-2014, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mightymouseusf View Post
Just got the ok from Avical to post my post calibration settings... <a class="attachment loginreq" href="/attachments/68771" title="">Post Call settings.pdf 28k .pdf file
Anybody know what to use for HDMI black level? Low or Normal?
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post #2544 of 3081 Old 10-23-2014, 03:45 AM
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Low if you are sending 16-235 RGB (video levels), normal if you are sending 0-255 RGB (PC levels).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice That Jaw View Post
Finally broke and bought Calman 5 and th i1 Display Pro. I couldn't figure out how to print the detailed report and all I got was this image. How decent is this for a first attempt? (I spent about 2.5 hours) I understand that you typically want a 2.2 gamma and a low DeltaE but I have no idea what the luminance means in at the bottom.
The bottom graph shows the proper ratio of each color's luminance relative to white. If the gray bar next to the color is the same height as the color bar you are good. Your calibration looks pretty good but you'll need to get gamma to line up with the yellow line. You can do that by using the 10 pt adjustment. After that you should run either saturation sweeps or color checker to check the interior of the gamut, that's more important than the triangle edges.
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post #2546 of 3081 Old 10-23-2014, 06:27 AM
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Gentlemen,

I am a recent owner (four weeks) of a 51" F8500 - I love it!

How would I go about finding someone to perform a professional calibration? I live in Fort Collins, CO

Thanks
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post #2547 of 3081 Old 10-23-2014, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by sarends View Post
Gentlemen,

I am a recent owner (four weeks) of a 51" F8500 - I love it!

How would I go about finding someone to perform a professional calibration? I live in Fort Collins, CO

Thanks
Here ----> http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/586330-isf-calibrators-where-you-located-please-post-here.html

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post #2548 of 3081 Old 10-23-2014, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
The bottom graph shows the proper ratio of each color's luminance relative to white. If the gray bar next to the color is the same height as the color bar you are good. Your calibration looks pretty good but you'll need to get gamma to line up with the yellow line. You can do that by using the 10 pt adjustment. After that you should run either saturation sweeps or color checker to check the interior of the gamut, that's more important than the triangle edges.
The problem was at 20% ad 50% I run out of room. Like I the blue will be too low even at +10. Also, when I first started the 2pt gamma I got them really close but after doing the 10pt they are way off and I am afraid to mess with them.

Should I experiment with the set's gamma setting and see if that can bring me close enough to get the 10pt gamma near perfect?

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post #2549 of 3081 Old 10-23-2014, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
for the first bit you just need to have some common sense and use 'good' home settings(ie get rid of dynamic store settings).
to start, I'd say:
-disable any 'features' like dynamic contrast, black level, etc
-switch to movie or standard picture mode(movie preferred)
-set color temp to warm1(warm2 if you are able to adjust 2pt/10pt white balance to fix the yellow/green push)
-set contrast to 95ish
-brightness should be somewhere between about 40-50, but set this with a test pattern
-you can leave color/tint at defaults
-turn sharpness down to 0-10(user preference)
-make sure color is set to auto(not native)
-black optimizer can/should be turned on to either dark room(if you almost always watch in a dark room and find the image plenty bright) or auto(if you watch in dark and bright room lighting, or want more brightness from the panel)
-you can adjust the cell light if you wish to dim the panel(it can be VERY bright for a dark room) or try turning eco mode on to low. neither is 'necessary' though if you like the brighter image.


try to avoid unnecessarily watching scope content, 4:3 content, or anything with high contrast static images/symbols. by all means, enjoy the tv, and watch a scope bluray. but after you're done, make sure to watch some full screen content to wipe away the IR. you will likely see IR during the first few hundred hours, just don't ignore it, and it'll clear up and after a while it'll take longer than 1 or 2 movies to even get noticeable IR.


the break in slides are just used to speed up the process. running the slides is a little more controlled, so 300hrs of running slides will age all the phosphors very evenly. to ensure the same aging of all phosphors with normal content may take longer since some colors will be used more than others. it's not a bad idea to run the slides occasionally at night to speed up the process, but there's no reason not to enjoy watching content right away.

Thanks so much for the help. I got my TV today and the MRT on the supposed brand new unit shows 6 hours. Is this normal or should brand new units show a 0?
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post #2550 of 3081 Old 10-23-2014, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice That Jaw View Post
The problem was at 20% ad 50% I run out of room. Like I the blue will be too low even at +10. Also, when I first started the 2pt gamma I got them really close but after doing the 10pt they are way off and I am afraid to mess with them.

Should I experiment with the set's gamma setting and see if that can bring me close enough to get the 10pt gamma near perfect?
yes, set the gamma slider so that you are close to what you want and then finish with the 10 pt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaden Alexander View Post
Thanks so much for the help. I got my TV today and the MRT on the supposed brand new unit shows 6 hours. Is this normal or should brand new units show a 0?
That's normal, mine had 12 hours on it.
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