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post #2701 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post
It shows you the effect the four black optimizer settings have on your display.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
It shows how much more sensitive to subtle detail a meter is than the human eye. If you have ever tried toggling BO thru its settings while keeping your eyes centered on the screen, you'll see what I mean.
Thanks. While I've already had the display professionally calibrated with CAL-DAY/CAL-NIGHT and 3D settings I was thinking of trying out some tweaking of my own based on some of the information based in this thread. I was going to use one of the other inputs to do my experimenting and have a question about settings. Will I change the original calibrated settings that I have on HDMI1 by changing settings on say HDMI2? In other words, will playing around with the settings on another input affect the settings on HDMI1?

I'm not a complete novice when it comes to these things but I am still getting used to this display and the E-manual is not really all that informative, not to mention it appears that some of it is out of date as it doesn't even discuss some of the features/functions/settings I see by perusing the on-screen menus.
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post #2702 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenan View Post
Will I change the original calibrated settings that I have on HDMI1 by changing settings on say HDMI2? In other words, will playing around with the settings on another input affect the settings on HDMI1?
No, but you should write down all the HDMI1 settings anyway in case you ever have to reset the TV or somebody else changes them inadvertently.
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post #2703 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:31 PM
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I just ran another calibration, figured I'd share.


Details:
-37ftl peak(turning up/down cell light a couple notches seems to stay close, but gamma definitely thrown off a bit at 18+)
-BT1886 gamma


SETTINGS:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Basic controls
PICTURE MODE: movie
CELL LIGHT: 15
CONTRAST: 100
BRIGHTNESS: 46
SHARPNESS: 0
COLOR: 57
TINT: 50
DYNAMIC CONTRAST: off
BLACK TONE: off
FLESH TONE: 0
COLOR TONE: warm2
DIGITAL CLEAN VIEW: auto/off
HDMI BLACK LEVEL: (greyed out)
FILM MODE: (greyed out)
MPEG NOISE FILTER: auto/off
MOTION JUDDER CANCELLER: off
BLACK OPTIMIZER: dark room
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMS
COLOR SPACE: custom
RED: 32, 0, 2
GREEN: 24, 47, 3
BLUE: 0, 0, 39
YELLOW: 51, 53, 3
CYAN: 27, 49, 49
MAGENTA: 35, 0, 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by White Balance
WHITE BALANCE:
RO: 39
GO: 25
BO: 27
RG: 37
GG: 23
BG: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10pt White Balance
10PT WHITE BALANCE:
1: 0, 0, +1
2: 0, 0, -2
3: -3, -2, -4
4: 0, +1, -2
5: -1, -1, -4
6: 0, 0, -3
7: +2, 0, -4
8: +2, -1, -4
9: +5, +3, -3
10: -1, 0, -5

RESULTS:

















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Last edited by fierce_gt; 10-31-2014 at 10:23 PM.
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post #2704 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:34 PM
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I did a quick run with WB reset, CS On and Off with Warm 2, Gamma 0, and with CS Off, the gamma is almost flat 2.3, but with CS On, it almost resembles BT 1886. note that that forgot to adjust the brightness before measuring CS On, so it is a bit off, one tick of Brightness to be exact. Interesting.
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post #2705 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
No, but you should write down all the HDMI1 settings anyway in case you ever have to reset the TV or somebody else changes them inadvertently.
some settings appear to be universal. i know the eco settings for sure. but i think maybe black optimizer is as well? i can't remember, there was one setting that surprised me i couldn't have different between hdmi1 and hdmi2

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post #2706 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:35 PM
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^ Fierce, you have some of the highest Red Offset/Gain values for White Balance that I've ever seen in a cal! [emoji50]
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post #2707 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:40 PM
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F8500 Recommended Settings Thread.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenan View Post

Will I change the original calibrated settings that I have on HDMI1 by changing settings on say HDMI2? In other words, will playing around with the settings on another input affect the settings on HDMI1?
Careful about the "Apply Picture Mode" Setting. Mine is set at "Current Source". If you set it for "All Sources", your other sources will be overwritten by the current source settings.
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post #2708 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
No, but you should write down all the HDMI1 settings anyway in case you ever have to reset the TV or somebody else changes them inadvertently.
Yes, before I tried anything I took pictures of all the menu screens and sub-menus within in each screen.
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post #2709 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
Careful about the "Apply Picture Mode" Setting. Mine is set at "Current Source". If you set it for "All Sources", your other sources will be overwritten by the current source settings.
Yes, it is currently set to "Current Source", it was originally set to "All Sources" before I made a few minor test changes on another input so I'm guessing that means those other inputs have had the HDMI1 settings copied over and any changes are made from that starting point? When changing to "Current Source" does that reset the other inputs or does that have to be done with the "Reset Picture" menu entry while in that particular input? I'm guessing it's the latter?
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post #2710 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 02:08 PM
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^ Yes, I would think the latter also.
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post #2711 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
^ Fierce, you have some of the highest Red Offset/Gain values for White Balance that I've ever seen in a cal! [emoji50]
I know!


I started off very timid with all my adjustments, but c'est la vie, this is where I ended up.


my original reading for warm 2 did have red very low though, like 20% low

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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
I know!


I started off very timid with all my adjustments, but c'est la vie, this is where I ended up.


my original reading for warm 2 did have red very low though, like 20% low
I have even higher red settings from my calibration. I really don't care because the graphs and picture looks great!

Samsung PN60F8500, Panasonic TH-42PD25U/P, Pioneer VSX-1018TXH-K, Oppo BDP-93, Aperion Audio 5T&5C, HSU STF-2, PS3, Wii, HTPC, SD Homerun Prime, Ceton Echo
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post #2713 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 04:03 PM
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Do you set your picture at 16x9 or screent fit? My 64F8500 is scheduled for installation tomorrow so any advice appreciated. Did D-Nice ever give his settings? Thanks!
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post #2714 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igreg View Post
Do you set your picture at 16x9 or screent fit? My 64F8500 is scheduled for installation tomorrow so any advice appreciated. Did D-Nice ever give his settings? Thanks!
16x9 allows for use of the pixel orbiter. Screen fit does not.

Samsung sets are supposed to be less probe to IR but I'm still using 16x9 and sticking to full screen bluray movies until I break in the panel a bit.
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post #2715 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igreg View Post
Do you set your picture at 16x9 or screent fit? My 64F8500 is scheduled for installation tomorrow so any advice appreciated. Did D-Nice ever give his settings? Thanks!
I always do screen fit. the less scaling the better. if you're concerned about IR and would prefer blurry IR, then you need to use 16:9 to turn on the pixel orbiter

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post #2716 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oddmania View Post
Thinking of buying Darbee 5100,connecting it from my oppo 103 to the f8500.
Any idea if it will enhance picture quality or I won't see much difference.
Since the Oppos have good second hand value, I would sell the 103 and get a 103D (Darbee inside the box) instead.
Darbee offers one extra notch of non intrusive enhancement to the picture.
Also, the 103D don't have the artificial softening of the picture which the 103 suffers from.
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post #2717 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 04:37 PM
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I cannot wait to calibrate this bad boy....this iPad photo doesn't do it justice. Don't know why the picture attacked upside down.

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Displays are like 100% cotton t-shirts. Always buy a size larger than you think you'll need, as they tend to shrink over time.
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post #2718 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
I always do screen fit. the less scaling the better. if you're concerned about IR and would prefer blurry IR, then you need to use 16:9 to turn on the pixel orbiter
So 16:9 and watch only 16:9 content; e.g., HBO for the first hundered hours or so leaving set on 24 hours a day, and then switch to screen fit? With my 10 year-old Panasoonic plasma always have used pixel orbiter and never had a problem with IR let alone burn in. Thanks.

P.S. Why would 16:9 involve scaling? Isn't that the ratio of HDTV's? Or do you uses screen fit to enlarge 4:3 and 2:35 to 16:9?
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post #2719 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 05:50 PM
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I am thinking of picking up the The Disney WOW World of Wonder Disc for calibration tonight. Any harm in using it as soon as I get the set? I prefer a natural, realistic picture, not a picture that "pops." But do want maximum detail possible set just below point where would reach excessive grain. Can you reach that in the movie mode, or does that setting by its nature produce a less detailed image?

I am having it professionally calibrated later by Best Buy (assured by Magnolia salesman he would hand select calibrator who was excellent at calibration). But that is not scheduled for about six weeks from now.

Also, and know asking a lot of questions here, but any break-in tips; for example, not having certain settings above a certain level for x number of hours? I have heard of slides mentioned here, but not sure what that means? Really necessary or stronly recommend? One forum member says that makes the set too hot? Just running continuously on 16:9 content absent bugs just as good. Appreciate help!

Last edited by igreg; 10-30-2014 at 05:53 PM.
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post #2720 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igreg View Post
So 16:9 and watch only 16:9 content; e.g., HBO for the first hundered hours or so leaving set on 24 hours a day, and then switch to screen fit? With my 10 year-old Panasoonic plasma always have used pixel orbiter and never had a problem with IR let alone burn in. Thanks.

P.S. Why would 16:9 involve scaling? Isn't that the ratio of HDTV's? Or do you uses screen fit to enlarge 4:3 and 2:35 to 16:9?
well, 16:9 is the ratio yes, but if you chop off a dozen pixels vertically and horizontally, the signal needs to be stretched to fill the full screen again. screen fit is also 16:9, but it's a 1:1 pixel match to a 1080p source.


the issue I have with using 16:9 is that I don't think it provides any benefit(unless your cable company still uses the outer edge of pixels for time stamps or something, I've seen that on a couple channels still). the pixel orbiter shifts 4pixels max, which means in order to prevent IR, the graphic must be less than 4pixels wide, which is really tiny. a channel logo, or score ticker, or any of the other common risks for IR would only have their edges blurred, hiding IR, but not actually preventing it.


personally, I think there is no prescriptive measures you can take to prevent IR, it has to be reactive. I can't tell you how much scope content you can safely watch, or what channels, or how many hours of gaming is ok. you need to simply use the tv as your normally would, and IF you start to see IR, do something about it. whether that's watching full screen content, running the screen wipe, or changing the way you view whatever content caused the IR is up to you. eventually you'll get an idea of what you can and can't do with your tv.


for example, I'm no longer worried about surfing the web for 3-4hrs straight on my f8500. I know it's not going to do any damage to my tv. I'm not worried about watching a couple of scope movies, or having a long gaming session. but I still try to vary my content, and if I do notice any ir occurring I adjust my viewing. what I consider 'normal use' might seem cautious to others, and reckless to some. so it's really hard to say how you, or anybody else will need to view your tv.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #2721 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 06:00 PM
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My personal opinion is that the pixel orbiter is useless and that it's much better to use screen fit which does no interpolation (scaling) of a 1080p input. As far as settings go use what you want and don't dwell on material that has bright logos, i.e. mix it up. Running slides is a ridiculous waste of energy.
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post #2722 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igreg View Post
I am thinking of picking up the The Disney WOW World of Wonder Disc for calibration tonight. Any harm in using it as soon as I get the set? I prefer a natural, realistic picture, not a picture that "pops." But do want maximum detail possible set just below point where would reach excessive grain. Can you reach that in the movie mode, or does that setting by its nature produce a less detailed image?

I am having it professionally calibrated later by Best Buy (assured by Magnolia salesman he would hand select calibrator who was excellent at calibration). But that is not scheduled for about six weeks from now.

Also, and know asking a lot of questions here, but any break-in tips; for example, not having certain settings above a certain level for x number of hours? I have heard of slides mentioned here, but not sure what that means? Really necessary or stronly recommend? One forum member says that makes the set too hot? Just running continuously on 16:9 content absent bugs just as good. Appreciate help!
it's a good idea to adjust the picture to correct brightness, contrast, etc. the only thing to worry about for the initial break-in is to make sure the settings are not too high. if set to 'correct' values, you should have nothing to worry about.


the slides are useful to put hours on the tv quickly. if you want, run them at night when you're not watching anything. it'll even out any ir, and age the phosphors at the same time. it's usually not necessary though, more important if you are anxious to get a professional calibration and don't want to wait weeks/months to get 300hrs on the screen.


but for clarity, here's what I would do if I brought home another tomorrow and didn't have my meter:
-select movie picture mode
-set brightness based on a test pattern(which will likely be somewhere around 44-48)
-turn cell light down to around 15-16(unless you are using it in a very bright room)
-set contrast to 95
-leave color/tint at 50
-make sure color space is set to auto
-turn off dynamic contrast, motion judder canceller, black tone
-use warm1 color temp(warm2 needs adjustment imo)
-gamma at 0
-black optimizer set to dark room(if you don't want extra brightness), or auto(if you want a brighter image)
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Last edited by fierce_gt; 10-30-2014 at 08:02 PM.
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post #2723 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
it's a good idea to adjust the picture to correct brightness, contrast, etc. the only thing to worry about for the initial break-in is to make sure the settings are too high. if set to 'correct' values, you should have nothing to worry about.


the slides are useful to put hours on the tv quickly. if you want, run them at night when you're not watching anything. it'll even out any ir, and age the phosphors at the same time. it's usually not necessary though, more important if you are anxious to get a professional calibration and don't want to wait weeks/months to get 300hrs on the screen.


but for clarity, here's what I would do if I brought home another tomorrow and didn't have my meter:
-select movie picture mode
-set brightness based on a test pattern(which will likely be somewhere around 44-48)
-turn cell light down to around 15-16(unless you are using it in a very bright room)
-set contrast to 95
-leave color/tint at 50
-make sure color space is set to auto
-turn off dynamic contrast, motion judder canceller, black tone
-use warm1 color temp(warm2 needs adjustment imo)
-gamma at 0
-black optimizer set to dark room(if you don't want extra brightness), or auto(if you want a brighter image)
Thanks. I take it when you stated, "the only thing to worry about for the initial break-in is to make sure the settings are too high", you meant "the only thing to worry about for the initial break-in is to make sure the settings are not set too high? I ask because I have actually seen web sites that recommend high settings for break-in which I question. Thanks.

Last edited by igreg; 10-30-2014 at 06:59 PM.
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post #2724 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
well, 16:9 is the ratio yes, but if you chop off a dozen pixels vertically and horizontally, the signal needs to be stretched to fill the full screen again. screen fit is also 16:9, but it's a 1:1 pixel match to a 1080p source.


the issue I have with using 16:9 is that I don't think it provides any benefit(unless your cable company still uses the outer edge of pixels for time stamps or something, I've seen that on a couple channels still). the pixel orbiter shifts 4pixels max, which means in order to prevent IR, the graphic must be less than 4pixels wide, which is really tiny. a channel logo, or score ticker, or any of the other common risks for IR would only have their edges blurred, hiding IR, but not actually preventing it.


personally, I think there is no prescriptive measures you can take to prevent IR, it has to be reactive. I can't tell you how much scope content you can safely watch, or what channels, or how many hours of gaming is ok. you need to simply use the tv as your normally would, and IF you start to see IR, do something about it. whether that's watching full screen content, running the screen wipe, or changing the way you view whatever content caused the IR is up to you. eventually you'll get an idea of what you can and can't do with your tv.


for example, I'm no longer worried about surfing the web for 3-4hrs straight on my f8500. I know it's not going to do any damage to my tv. I'm not worried about watching a couple of scope movies, or having a long gaming session. but I still try to vary my content, and if I do notice any ir occurring I adjust my viewing. what I consider 'normal use' might seem cautious to others, and reckless to some. so it's really hard to say how you, or anybody else will need to view your tv.
I don't understand the technical jargon when state that at 16:9 you will chop off a dozen pixels vertically and horizontally, and the signal needs to be stretched to fill the full screen again. Could you explain or provide a reference. Regardless, would I be correct in assuming that 16:9 is perfect for all but 1080p? Do you change the setting when watching 2:35:1 or 4:3 or just leave at 16:9 and set converts. Thanks!
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post #2725 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
some settings appear to be universal. i know the eco settings for sure. but i think maybe black optimizer is as well? i can't remember, there was one setting that surprised me i couldn't have different between hdmi1 and hdmi2
Hello
FYI, I used your settings from your previous calibration you posted. Changed the Gamma to -1 and the backlight to 17. Just watched Tron Legacy on Blueray on my 60" 8500 in a completely dark room. Wow I am totally blown away by how good this panel looks! Thanks for your post.

Regards
Jeff
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post #2726 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by igreg View Post
I don't understand the technical jargon when state that at 16:9 you will chop off a dozen pixels vertically and horizontally, and the signal needs to be stretched to fill the full screen again. Could you explain or provide a reference. Regardless, would I be correct in assuming that 16:9 is perfect for all but 1080p? Do you change the setting when watching 2:35:1 or 4:3 or just leave at 16:9 and set converts. Thanks!
16:9 conforms to typical broadcast overscan recommendations and you lose about 3.5% of the image, which is then stretched to fit the screen. Screen fit has no overscan.
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post #2727 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 08:02 PM
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Thanks. I take it when you stated, "the only thing to worry about for the initial break-in is to make sure the settings are too high", you meant "the only thing to worry about for the initial break-in is to make sure the settings are not set too high? I ask because I have actually seen web sites that recommend high settings for break-in which I question. Thanks.
oops!


yeah, just set the brightness and contrast with test patterns and you should be fine. if you want to be extra cautious turn down cell light to around 15, or turn eco mode on low, but neither is necessary imo.

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post #2728 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igreg View Post
I don't understand the technical jargon when state that at 16:9 you will chop off a dozen pixels vertically and horizontally, and the signal needs to be stretched to fill the full screen again. Could you explain or provide a reference. Regardless, would I be correct in assuming that 16:9 is perfect for all but 1080p? Do you change the setting when watching 2:35:1 or 4:3 or just leave at 16:9 and set converts. Thanks!
I don't know the exact specs, but think of it like this


16:9- displays a 1888x1062 resolution image on the 1920x1080 screen.
screen fit - displays a 1920x1080 resolution image on the 1920x1080 screen.


in both cases it's a 16:9 aspect ratio, just like 1920x1080 and 1280x720 are both '16:9', but the 16:9 option crops several pictures around the edge(looks like it's zoomed in about 2%) which results in a lower resolution source being displayed. so the tv needs to do some scaling(since it's zoomed in) which results in more artifacts than a 1:1 pixel matched image.


I leave mine set to screen fit all the time. my cable box automatically stretches 4:3 to 16:9, and I don't watch movies often enough(I have a projector for that) on the f8500 to worry about the occasional scope movie.


screen fit is the best for picture quality.
16:9 is useful if there's coded information around the edge(some cable channels do this) that you want to crop off, or if you want to use the pixel orbiter features
any of the various zoom/stretch options are complete personal preference. I don't tend to 'care' that much about anything presented in 4:3, so I just let that get stretched, but that's just my preference. it's definitely not better.


if you are not sending a 1920x1080 signal to the tv, then the 'extra scaling' of 16:9 mode is pretty irrelevant since the tv will have to do scaling in screen fit mode as well. you don't have to switch back and forth, but if you don't ever watch 1080p content, then there's no real benefit to screen fit either.
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Last edited by fierce_gt; 10-30-2014 at 08:15 PM.
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post #2729 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post
Hello
FYI, I used your settings from your previous calibration you posted. Changed the Gamma to -1 and the backlight to 17. Just watched Tron Legacy on Blueray on my 60" 8500 in a completely dark room. Wow I am totally blown away by how good this panel looks! Thanks for your post.

Regards
Jeff
I'm glad it worked for you! that is one of my favourite movies to show off the f8500 with. just the perfect blend of deep blacks and bright colors

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post #2730 of 3629 Old 10-30-2014, 11:30 PM
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Im impressed by the IR on this set. I can be running the small APL pattern and see some IR from the surrounding boxes and its literally gone after one pass of anything. And this is after its been active for an hour or so.
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