F8500 Recommended Settings Thread..... - Page 97 - AVS Forum
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post #2881 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
Good advice. I had to caution myself about turning it into a video game and trying for a level of perfection with perfect charts that wasn't justified considering my level of expertise and the quality of my equipment. I think I'm well within the margin of error of both.
the f8500 was the first display I calibrated with a meter, I definitely fell into this trap!

after calibrating some 'lesser' displays, I very quickly learned to accept dE's 0.9 as great, instead of something that needed fixing, haha. gamma even more so. using a display that doesn't have 10pt controls teaches you a lot of 'acceptance' haha.

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post #2882 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
i'm a 'don't fix what isn't broken' kind of guy. before I bother going into the service menu, which resets my calibration, I want to know it's going to be worth it.
I wasn't aware of this, does accessing the hours of use display/readout constitute going into the service menu? It doesn't appear to have reset anything on my display by doing so.

Last edited by Keenan; 11-07-2014 at 06:42 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #2883 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 11:33 AM
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My settings are preserved after I enter/exit the service menu, just have to change from dynamic back to movie after exiting.
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post #2884 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
My settings are preserved after I enter/exit the service menu, just have to change from dynamic back to movie after exiting.
If my settings had been reset I would have lost the CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT modes in the "Picture Mode' menu correct?

I seem to recall there is a procedure for exited the SM in a manner that does not reset everything, maybe that's what's tripping up those who have had it reset?
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post #2885 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
the f8500 was the first display I calibrated with a meter, I definitely fell into this trap!

after calibrating some 'lesser' displays, I very quickly learned to accept dE's 0.9 as great, instead of something that needed fixing, haha. gamma even more so. using a display that doesn't have 10pt controls teaches you a lot of 'acceptance' haha.
Agreed. My 'main' TV is a 60 inch Sony NX720. Side lit LED but the local dimming is pretty effective and for the most part eliminates flash lighting (although you do get some light bleed around the edges so uniformity is not ideal). No 10 pt adjustments so I don't spend much time with it and the meter.

I received that TV as a 'don't sue us' concession from Sony for $1500 back in early 2012. At the time I considered a plasma but the room is bright and the F8500 didn't exist yet. But I'm grateful for that TV because I only use the F8500 for movies and use the Sony for video games or content heavy with logos etc. It's the best of both worlds...cable quality is garbage and I don't notice inaccurate colors etc on games. Besides even though the F8500 seems very resistant to IR so far old paranoia is hard to break!
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post #2886 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenan View Post
If my settings had been reset I would have lost the CAL-DAY and CAL-NIGHT modes in the "Picture Mode' menu correct?

I seem to recall there is a procedure for exited the SM in a manner that does not reset everything, maybe that's what's tripping up those who have had it reset?
I check the panel time and temp quite a bit and never lose any settings. But then again I also keep a spread sheet with all of them after calibrating. LOL

I DO see some odd behavior when copying settings from input to input or reseting a mode but I can't quite put my finger on it so take that with a grain of salt.

All in all I much prefer this TV to the 50ST60 I had but I do like how Panasonic made it easier to move settings around. Their method was close to ideal IMO.
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post #2887 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 12:41 PM
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I think I read here somewhere it is thought that you no longer have to do the PC naming trick with the newest firmware, true?
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post #2888 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 03:44 PM
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How come my custom calibration settings don't apply to all the HDMI inputs?

Video: Samsung PN50C550 & PN64F8500
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post #2889 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 04:24 PM
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Here is a 2.2 gamma target at 40 ftL calibration. 50 inch model.
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post #2890 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 04:58 PM
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Which do you prefer. Personally, unless it is a really dark room, I prefer 2.2 gamma.

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post #2891 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keenan View Post
I wasn't aware of this, does accessing the hours of use display/readout constitute going into the service menu? I doesn't appear to have reset anything on my display by doing so.
no
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post
My settings are preserved after I enter/exit the service menu, just have to change from dynamic back to movie after exiting.
maybe I heard wrong. obviously I haven't been in the service menu myself.

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post #2892 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL-F1 View Post
I think I read here somewhere it is thought that you no longer have to do the PC naming trick with the newest firmware, true?
depends on what you mean by this. there is definitely still a difference between game mode and pc mode.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #2893 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfarrell4 View Post
How come my custom calibration settings don't apply to all the HDMI inputs?
there's a setting you need to select 'apply to all'. it's found near the bottom of the first video settings menu

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #2894 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
depends on what you mean by this. there is definitely still a difference between game mode and pc mode.
The way to get the least input lag for gaming, is still PC rename input?
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post #2895 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dsskid View Post
Which do you prefer. Personally, unless it is a really dark room, I prefer 2.2 gamma.
The TV is in our guest room (we have a small house and with a newborn around it was nice to be able to hide in there sometimes) and it's never very bright in there and can be made pitch black.

So in limited action today I thought the 2.4 held its own even with a little sunlight. No idea yet if I'll like it more or not.
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post #2896 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 07:30 PM
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Motion de judder should be set to off for Fios or cable, right?

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post #2897 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 09:24 PM
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This might be my best work yet. 51 inch panel. 2.4 gamma target. 30ish ftL. Now that I have a day and night mode I'm out unless the panel drifts.
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post #2898 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL-F1 View Post
The way to get the least input lag for gaming, is still PC rename input?
yes, if game mode isn't fast enough, pc mode still has less lag.

this is not a bad thing by any means though. pc mode disables a LOT of useful processing, so it's nice to still have game mode as an option, with better picture quality and only slightly more lag.

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post #2899 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
This might be my best work yet. 51 inch panel. 2.4 gamma target. 30ish ftL. Now that I have a day and night mode I'm out unless the panel drifts.
if you get bored, you could always try a bt1886 gamma next

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post #2900 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
if you get bored, you could always try a bt1886 gamma next
I'm pretty sure that is all I was allowed to use with Calman Tutorial and my old C3 meter so technically I already have.
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post #2901 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 10:20 PM
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This might be my best work yet. 51 inch panel. 2.4 gamma target. 30ish ftL. Now that I have a day and night mode I'm out unless the panel drifts.
Tks for sharin. 100% Saturation looks good. But what about 50% and 75% (if your software allows)?

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post #2902 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 10:31 PM
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Tks for sharin. 100% Saturation looks good. But what about 50% and 75% (if your software allows)?
I have the test patterns and the software supports it but I haven't run those yet.
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post #2903 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
This might be my best work yet. 51 inch panel. 2.4 gamma target. 30ish ftL. Now that I have a day and night mode I'm out unless the panel drifts.
Looks great! If you get a chance or feel like it, I'd be curious to know what black level you get with the GCD apl pattern. It's going to be high, but I have a 51 inch and was wondering how much the level varies from set to set.
Thanks!
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post #2904 of 3444 Old 11-07-2014, 10:45 PM
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I have the test patterns and the software supports it but I haven't run those yet.
Might be worth a try. 100% saturated content isn't all that common, so aiming a bit lower may give better results on "average/typical" content (depending on what you watch). You may have to oversaturate 100% a bit in the Color Space controls to get the 50% and 75% colors to track better. That's the way it seems to work on the F5300s anyway. Not sure why.

What Eco Solution/Energy Saving setting are you using btw?

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post #2905 of 3444 Old 11-08-2014, 03:24 AM
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can anybody confirm that we now have access to 10pt white balance in 'pc mode'?


I was goofing around a bit, and I turned off my pc mode on hdmi2(my gaming input), went to hdmi1 and selected the 'apply settings to all' option, then back to 'this input only'. I wanted to copy my good calibration over t hdmi2. when I went back to hdmi2 and renamed it to pc again, I had lost my previous pc settings. so I brought out my meter to do a quick re-cal, and noticed that 10pt controls were not greyed out! sure enough I was able to turn them to on, and use them. I'm 99% sure this has never been the case before, how could I have missed it?


the 'goofy' features like dynamic contrast, mpeg filter, etc were still all greyed out. black optimizer was greyed out. and all settings to do with color were greyed out. moving my cursor around on the screen was definitely better than the regular mode, but I'm not sure if it isn't slightly laggy still. still very good, but I feel like maybe it was better in pc mode before, not sure.


anyway, I went through and did the greyscale/gamma calibration, and it's fantastic, as good as I've ever gotten in movie mode. but color... green was always an issue in pc mode before. see the CIE chart below:



compare that to what I got today(I only ran primaries since there's nothing I can adjust anyway):



so, I'm curious if this is something new, or I somehow stumbled onto a glitch that's actually good? at this point I don't want to touch anything, the results in my PC mode right now are so good, I can hardly tell the difference between it and my 'movie' mode calibration, aside from not having black optimizer and it being 10ftl brighter. I mean, I was even able to dial in a near perfect bt1886 gamma!



if this is new, I wonder if 10pt controls are available in game mode now too? if so, that might be a big deal, as game mode I believe allows BO, which means you should be able to get pretty much the same results in game mode as you do in movie, but with half the lag

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post #2906 of 3444 Old 11-08-2014, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfarrell4 View Post
How come my custom calibration settings don't apply to all the HDMI inputs?
there's a setting you need to select 'apply to all'. it's found near the bottom of the first video settings menu
It does not carry over custom settings i.e. 10pt white balance and custom RGB
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post #2907 of 3444 Old 11-08-2014, 07:11 AM
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Hey, I have a 64f8500 with 300hrs on it and plan on calibrating it using i1Display Pro and hcfr. What test patterns do you guys recommend and I should calibrate using 75/75 correct? Thanks
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post #2908 of 3444 Old 11-08-2014, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by charles dodgen View Post
Looks great! If you get a chance or feel like it, I'd be curious to know what black level you get with the GCD apl pattern. It's going to be high, but I have a 51 inch and was wondering how much the level varies from set to set.
Thanks!
Thanks. I'll see what I can do. On black screen with BO on Dark Room I was getting 0.004 if that helps in the meantime. I realize it's not the same thing.
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post #2909 of 3444 Old 11-08-2014, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ADU View Post
Might be worth a try. 100% saturated content isn't all that common, so aiming a bit lower may give better results on "average/typical" content (depending on what you watch). You may have to oversaturate 100% a bit in the Color Space controls to get the 50% and 75% colors to track better. That's the way it seems to work on the F5300s anyway. Not sure why.

What Eco Solution/Energy Saving setting are you using btw?
Well try that next time I get out the meter. All the eco stuff is turned off.
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post #2910 of 3444 Old 11-08-2014, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by trp3383 View Post
Hey, I have a 64f8500 with 300hrs on it and plan on calibrating it using i1Display Pro and hcfr. What test patterns do you guys recommend and I should calibrate using 75/75 correct? Thanks
Ive been using the HCFR Windows on this disc.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/948496-avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.html

They may not be IDEAL but they are easy to use and fit my current skill level.
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