PNxxF5500 owners thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 747 Old 01-03-2014, 04:58 PM
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I just got a F5300. The pixel shift/orbiter feature doesn't work with Screen Fit, so is it worth choosing 16:9 and turning it on? Or is IR on the Samsung's not that bad compared to the Panasonics?
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post #452 of 747 Old 01-08-2014, 03:18 PM
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hello,

I have a friend who doesn't like the glasses that came with this TV.
Can anyone recommend some good rechargeable glasses that will work with this model?
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post #453 of 747 Old 01-10-2014, 09:05 AM
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I love how it came with these cheap glasses for free, but they do make your eyes a bit tired and having a slim face they let in too much light from the side causing reflection on the inside of the lenses. They also don't have as much 3d pop as better glasses. I'm thinking of picking up a pair of Xpand 3D 105x. They look really good, worst case senario I may try the Panasonic glasses which are supposed to be good.
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post #454 of 747 Old 01-10-2014, 09:55 AM
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Thinking about getting this but as far as sports go, the only thing I watch is hockey. Has this issue been fixed with the latest firmware update? I know that the flickering is a plasma issue, but has anyone compared their 5500 to a Panny? Does the Panasonic flicker like the 5500, or is it less noticeable?

Thanks!
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post #455 of 747 Old 01-11-2014, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Ben View Post

Thinking about getting this but as far as sports go, the only thing I watch is hockey. Has this issue been fixed with the latest firmware update? I know that the flickering is a plasma issue, but has anyone compared their 5500 to a Panny? Does the Panasonic flicker like the 5500, or is it less noticeable?

Thanks!

I feel like the latest firmware update relieved this problem...you can still see the flashes a little bit but that is a natural occurance as I'm sure you've been to hockey games and noticed flashes towards the top of the stadium. As far as the "pops" or dimming are concerned I haven't noticed it lately. When I first got this tv it was hard to watch hockey but now I thoroughly enjoy it so something must have happened. My friend has the Panny vt 65" and I watched a little hockey on it...you can see the natural flashes but there was no dimming/brightening issues...but like I said I don't know if it's just me but I feel like the last firmware update fixed those problems with the 5500 because I don't notice it anymore.

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post #456 of 747 Old 01-11-2014, 03:21 PM
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Thanks for the response! This definitely helps. Hopefully yours isn't the only one that works fine, as I haven't seen many others on this thread with the same experience, and I have read EVERY post on here. Haha.
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post #457 of 747 Old 01-11-2014, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Ben View Post

Thanks for the response! This definitely helps. Hopefully yours isn't the only one that works fine, as I haven't seen many others on this thread with the same experience, and I have read EVERY post on here. Haha.

I'm actually watching the panthers vs devils game right now and as i said earlier you do see the little flashes every now and then but it's hardly noticeable...I'm not seeing the dimming/brightening issues that I and so many others were having...When I first got this tv It was hard to watch hockey but it looks freaking amazing right now...I did adjust my picture settings around the same time that I downloaded the latest firmware so I don't know if it may be one or the other or a combination of the two but whatever the case I am now enjoying hockey on this tv and before it was almost impossible to watch.

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post #458 of 747 Old 01-11-2014, 04:35 PM
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If anybody wants to know what picture settings I'm using to watch hockey just let me know and I'll post it on here

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post #459 of 747 Old 01-12-2014, 05:46 AM
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Hello all, I'm new here as a poster though I have been reading these forums for advice and solutions for a while. I currently have a problem I was wondering if someone could help me with.

 

I just received my pn60f5500 this tuesday, I hooked it up and played with the settings a little, mostly deferring at first to cnet's suggestions. I received my disney wow disk the other day and have used the basic set up to get things set.

Blu-rays look great on it, 3d looks decent, but lately i've been watching the good wife tv series on dvd and it looks absolutely hideous. the picture isn't at all clear and many times when there's movement on the screen I get a, tearing? effect. Basically the area of moment displays horizontal lines. Say someones head is nodding, instead of their chin coming to a v shape, I get =v= lines coming off it.

 

I'm kind of a newbie again. I used to be a need to know it all about AV, and then computers, but I've kinda fallen out of both over the last 10 years or so. So it's likely I have something perhaps set up wrong, but the picture was about the same for these discs before I touched a single setting.

 

I'm using a samsung 5900 bluray to play them.

 

Any ideas off the bat what this may be cause by?

Today I will be trying a few things, I'm going to try my previous bluray to see how it looks with that, as well as previous bluray with the lg plasma that I had. I'm also going to try some other dvds.

I'm new to bluray, only had it for a little over a year and honestly only started buying BD over dvd about 5 months ago because the difference in picture wasn't that huge, I thought. It was actually sound that got me. I played a rented BD and noticed my surround sound was functioning often as opposed to rarely with dvd. I know I watched the series on the LG but that was when the bulk of what I watched was dvd, however I don't think it was this bad, and I know I didn't experience the tearing during movement. It honestly looks as if I am playing a copied vhs tape.

 

I know that the 60 inch is pentile? display, but I can't imagine that being the problem because it should show poorly for BD as well as DVD shouldn't it?

The really odd thing is when I load a disc, CBS has a logo screen, it's perfect. The disc menu is likewise clear, but when the video starts, it's ugly.

 

Sorry if I posted this incorrectly, I'm assuming it's the display, I had a 5900 hooked up to my old LG and didn't experience these issues so I'm assuming its the display not the bluray player.


Samsung pn60f5500

Samsung bd-f5900

Pioneer vsx-522

I have the bluray running via amazonbasics high speed hdmi (Ethernet, 3D and Audio Return) to the vsx-522 to the tv via the same type Hdmi cable.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice.

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post #460 of 747 Old 01-12-2014, 06:12 AM
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So I tested a dvd and a different tv series - sons of anarchy, both aren't great but not as bad as the good wife. Is Cbs just producing junk discs? Or did I possibly get very good bootlegs?

Odd thing is as I said I don't remember it looking this poor on the older LG plasma. I will be hooking it up to test soon.

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post #461 of 747 Old 01-14-2014, 01:32 PM
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Sounds like a frame rate issue with the BluRay/DVD player. Try turning off all upscaling of DVDs in the player, if there is an "Auto" setting, be sure it is OFF........ send straight 480i to the set. Then if that fixes it, 480p for DVDs might make a small difference in PQ.

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post #462 of 747 Old 01-19-2014, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citizenkage View Post

If anybody wants to know what picture settings I'm using to watch hockey just let me know and I'll post it on here

I just bought the Samsung PN60F550. There is alot of flashing and dimming watching hockey with latest firmware 1118. I would like to try your settings for hockey.

Just like to ask a general question here.I have a Samsung 52 in LCD and the PN60F550 set up side by side.
Watching sports on the plasma I notice motion blur/picture goes funny when camera zooms in which does not happen on the Sammy 52 LCD.

Are there any setting to get rid of the motion blur when watching sports on PN60F550 TV. For now call me crazy the LCD is a more satisfying picture when watching sports.

3d movies on the PN60F550 is not very good,pretty much un-watchable or I just do not know how to get 3d working probably. Is it just a matter of buying better glasses or is 3d just poor in general on the TV.

Thank if anyone could help me out.
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post #463 of 747 Old 01-20-2014, 09:47 PM
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Hi all,
This tv is driving me nuts. I see judder or something all the time and I can't figure it out. Is anyone else having this problem?

It's kinda like when you see the frame rate while watching 3d, but its all the time.

My source is an Apple TV gen3. I've tried 1080 and lesser resolutions. I've also tried playing direct from a macbook
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post #464 of 747 Old 01-23-2014, 05:29 PM
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I would say the Apple TV may be the culprit. I have several streaming sources, and the Apple brings up the rear......dropouts, stuttering, pauses, etc. This is for content from the cloud, don't use it for local streaming.

Borrow or buy a BluRay player to test it out........or if you are close enough, hook up an antenna and see what OTA HD looks like.

I've seen things you wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser gate.
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post #465 of 747 Old 01-23-2014, 07:00 PM
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Anyone have hockey settings to make the Ice white instead of grey when camera is pulled back for normal viewing.
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post #466 of 747 Old 01-24-2014, 04:12 AM
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Hi, does anyone know where I can get some nice settings for the pn60f5500? 

 

thank you!

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post #467 of 747 Old 01-24-2014, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerardfraser View Post

Anyone have hockey settings to make the Ice white instead of grey when camera is pulled back for normal viewing.

I notice the same as well on my F5350. Or when there is a large white background on a commercial (like AT&T or something) it looks somewhat gray. But what is strange is when watching most everything else, something that is supposed to be white really appears to be bright white.
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post #468 of 747 Old 01-24-2014, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerardfraser View Post

Anyone have hockey settings to make the Ice white instead of grey when camera is pulled back for normal viewing.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you on the hockey settings. I have found these settings to be pretty good for hockey games. Try these out and let me know what you think...

 

Picture mode: Standard

Cell light:16

Contrast:100

Brightness:45

Sharpness:0

Color:43

Tint(G/R):G50/R50

Picture size:screen fit

 

Advanced Settings

Dynamic Contrast:Low

Black tone:off

Flesh tone:0

RGB Only mode:Off

Color space:native

White balance:all 25

Gamma:0

Motion Lighting:off

 

Picture Options

Color tone:standard

Digital clean view:Auto

Mpeg Noise Filter:Auto

HDMI Black Level: Normal

Film Mode:Auto1

Black optimizer:dark room

 

Those are the settings I use for hockey and they're the best I've been able to come up with so far, but I really only use that setting for hockey, that is not what I use for movies and everyday watching.

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post #469 of 747 Old 01-24-2014, 01:09 PM
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Does anyone have issues with this TV randomly rebooting? Last few weeks my TV has been rebooting by itself for no obvious reason and I can't figure out what's causing it.
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post #470 of 747 Old 01-24-2014, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citizenkage View Post

... I have found these settings to be pretty good for hockey games. Try these out and let me know what you think

Contrast:100

...


Just an observation... and we all know that at the end the settings are based on what the user likes.
Nevertheless, every time I see setting with 100 contrast makes me clinch. You shouldn't have your contrast at 100 unless your room lighting conditions grants this setting. If your room is average -- day time; a couple of windows with blinds or shades where no direct light gets to the TV, and night time -- some lights on from lamps or similar. Then your contrast should not be more than 90. This setting should give you between 30 - 38 FTL that should be plenty of light output plus you'll be giving your TV a longer life. Also the auto white balance, or whatever is call, is based on the overall screen brightness, by having contrast at its full on position you are just making it worst.

I would suggest to lower the contrast. If you are used to an overly bright picture it might look off at first, but you'll be closer to a true calibrated picture --2.5 gamma and a 35 FTL of light output.

Once again, at the end if you like it the way you have it...

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post #471 of 747 Old 01-24-2014, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citizenkage View Post

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you on the hockey settings. I have found these settings to be pretty good for hockey games. Try these out and let me know what you think...

Picture mode: Standard
Cell light:16
Contrast:100
Brightness:45
Sharpness:0
Color:43
Tint(G/R):G50/R50
Picture size:screen fit

Advanced Settings
Dynamic Contrast:Low
Black tone:off
Flesh tone:0
RGB Only mode:Off
Color space:native
White balance:all 25
Gamma:0
Motion Lighting:off

Picture Options
Color tone:standard
Digital clean view:Auto
Mpeg Noise Filter:Auto
HDMI Black Level: Normal
Film Mode:Auto1
Black optimizer:dark room

Those are the settings I use for hockey and they're the best I've been able to come up with so far, but I really only use that setting for hockey, that is not what I use for movies and everyday watching.

Great thank you,I will give it a shot.

@superleo
I am in a totally dark room,I will also try your suggestion.
thanks
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post #472 of 747 Old 01-24-2014, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Just an observation... and we all know that at the end the settings are based on what the user likes.
Nevertheless, every time I see setting with 100 contrast makes me clinch. You shouldn't have your contrast at 100 unless your room lighting conditions grants this setting. If your room is average -- day time; a couple of windows with blinds or shades where no direct light gets to the TV, and night time -- some lights on from lamps or similar. Then your contrast should not be more than 90. This setting should give you between 30 - 38 FTL that should be plenty of light output plus you'll be giving your TV a longer life. Also the auto white balance, or whatever is call, is based on the overall screen brightness, by having contrast at its full on position you are just making it worst.

I would suggest to lower the contrast. If you are used to an overly bright picture it might look off at first, but you'll be closer to a true calibrated picture --2.5 gamma and a 35 FTL of light output.

Once again, at the end if you like it the way you have it...

I did qualify those settings as only for hockey games...I don't use those settings for anything else...my settings for daily viewing and blurays is totally different...but those settings just didn't work for hockey, I along with a lot of other people are having issues with hockey games on this set, so after some trial and error and some tweaking the settings I gave above with the contrast at 100 seemed to be the best for hockey...it's just my personal preference and a suggestion for people to try...and I do welcome feedback because I'm not a professional calibrator and I'm always open to suggestions
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post #473 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Ben View Post

Thinking about getting this but as far as sports go, the only thing I watch is hockey. Has this issue been fixed with the latest firmware update? I know that the flickering is a plasma issue, but has anyone compared their 5500 to a Panny? Does the Panasonic flicker like the 5500, or is it less noticeable?

Thanks!


Good luck finding a Panasonic since they are so rare now. That's why I'm leaning toward this one since its the same quality if not better then the st60, which is now very over priced.

And to think I got the st60 the first week it was out for 900 dollars, and I swapped it out for a sony LED (what a dumb arse in my favor)...

Why, Sony? Why?...
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post #474 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 08:49 AM
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I actually pulled the trigger on a floor model 60ST60 because of the supposed hockey issue. Funny thing is that when I brought it home and turned on ice hockey, I noticed a slightly burned in Panasonic logo in the middle of the screen. Now I'm at a crossroad of returning it and between the lesser of two evils. Why would you say the 5500 is better? From everything I've read the ST60 is better in every way (contrast, brightness, anti-glare screen). I'm not saying it is or isn't, but I never got a chance to see the 5500 in person, only the 5300.
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post #475 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 09:03 AM
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^^^

Based on my own research and lots of reading I chose the Samsung F5500 model over any of the Panasonics for three primary reason. The Samsungs has /is better on bright rooms. It handles picture retention and burned in better, and it performs better for 3D.

Everything else they are supposed to be fairly equal. But of course at the end is the user's preference.

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post #476 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 10:03 AM
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If you're a gamer go with the 5500 because the st60 has terrible input lag. Besides that, the 5500 has better 3d quality and the samsung smart hub is unrivaled. The st60 is supposed to have deeper blacks but I've read reviews that say the 5500 has truer colors so pic quality is more of a wash, maybe with a very slight edge going to the panny because of the deeper blacks. Fact of the matter is they are both really good sets and you can't go wrong with either, but like I said before if you're a gamer go with the 5500
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post #477 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 03:15 PM
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Honestly, the panel glare was what really had me second guessing myself. Since I couldn't see it in person I was concerned that it would glare as much as the 5300 which seems pretty bad when I checked it out at Best Buy. My room is not nearly as bright as that but it still concerned me since I've never had a plasma before and my only flatscreen has been my 2006 Samsung 720p LCD with a matte finish (which has been a workhorse!). Have you guys seen the 5500 vs the 5300? Do they have the same reflective finish?
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post #478 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 03:41 PM
 
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Samsung's naming and models this year are a mess. They made F5500 worse than F5350/F5300 by not including CMS and 10pt controls, but they did include SmartTV features, 3D, and more inputs. Are they planning to release firmware that enables more calibration controls?
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post #479 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 03:48 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Just an observation... and we all know that at the end the settings are based on what the user likes.
Nevertheless, every time I see setting with 100 contrast makes me clinch. You shouldn't have your contrast at 100 unless your room lighting conditions grants this setting. If your room is average -- day time; a couple of windows with blinds or shades where no direct light gets to the TV, and night time -- some lights on from lamps or similar. Then your contrast should not be more than 90. This setting should give you between 30 - 38 FTL that should be plenty of light output plus you'll be giving your TV a longer life. Also the auto white balance, or whatever is call, is based on the overall screen brightness, by having contrast at its full on position you are just making it worst.

I would suggest to lower the contrast. If you are used to an overly bright picture it might look off at first, but you'll be closer to a true calibrated picture --2.5 gamma and a 35 FTL of light output.

Once again, at the end if you like it the way you have it...


You really should use contrast of 100 and the lowest brightness settings where you can still see the first black level to get the highest contrast ratio. To control actual brightness of the image - use cell light settings. Why in the world would you use or want 2.5 gamma? It should be between 2.2-2.4 or BT.1886. Unless you actually measure your grayscale with a colorimeter - you can't just guess your gamma. What you said about white balance also makes no sense... White balance controls your grayscale white balance and again, you need a colorimeter to adjust it, otherwise leave at default of 25.

I don't know about F5500 highest luminance, but F5350 does not go past 31 fTL with contrast set to 100, brightness to 44, and cell light to 20.
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post #480 of 747 Old 01-27-2014, 03:54 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citizenkage View Post

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you on the hockey settings. I have found these settings to be pretty good for hockey games. Try these out and let me know what you think...

Picture mode: Standard
Cell light:16
Contrast:100
Brightness:45
Sharpness:0
Color:43
Tint(G/R):G50/R50
Picture size:screen fit

Advanced Settings
Dynamic Contrast:Low
Black tone:off
Flesh tone:0
RGB Only mode:Off
Color space:native
White balance:all 25
Gamma:0
Motion Lighting:off

Picture Options
Color tone:standard
Digital clean view:Auto
Mpeg Noise Filter:Auto

HDMI Black Level: Normal
Film Mode:Auto1
Black optimizer:dark room

Those are the settings I use for hockey and they're the best I've been able to come up with so far, but I really only use that setting for hockey, that is not what I use for movies and everyday watching.

I realize you are using a Standard mode, but can't you set your Color Tone to Warm2? That would be the right setting. Turn off Digital Clean View entirely, turn off MPEG Noise Filter, set your HDMI Level according to the device. Normal is for 0-255 range or Full RGB, while Low is for 16-235 range, YcbCr/limited RGB. Having HDMI Black Level right is of utmost importance. Film mode - do you have Cinema Smooth enabled? You should turn it off for 60p/hz programs/content and turn it on for 24p/hz films/movies. Pretty much set it to Cinema Smooth if it is available or let it be if its not.
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Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

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