Upon getting home after finishing calibrating gregleg's set, I found that upon finishing up, I apparently didn't save the calibration session, so unfortunately I don't have a post-calibration report to share.
I can, however, share how I calibrated and what I remember in terms of calibration details (meaning what I was targeting as far as accuracy, etc.):
Another caveat: I didn't do any sharpness testing so it's definitely possible that needs adjustment, though FWIW after finishing calibration in the limited amount of use the set saw before I left, I didn't notice obvious over-sharpening artifacts (ringing, etc.). If you think sharpness at 50 is too high, by all means turn it down.
That out of the way, I'll quickly go over what I used and quick methodology. For software, I use CalMAN 5 Enthusiast. As I do for any other calibration I perform, I started by calibrating my C6
tristim to my XRite EyeOne Pro spectroradiometer on his plasma. After that, all measurements were taken solely by the C6 for its speed, ease of use (no need to take a dark reading every 10 minutes like the EyeOne Pro needs), better reading down to very dark output levels, etc. Rather than rely on a disk or my laptop to generate patterns, I brought one of my Lumagen Radiance Mini3D
's with me, using its internal pattern generation (in reference mode, since I wouldn't be using the Lumagen for the actual calibration since it's not actually part of the final video chain in this case
I didn't pay attention to any prior calibration settings when calibrating - I basically operated completely on my own, so in comparing what I came up with afterwards, it was rather reassuring to see that the bulk of the settings that definitely should
carry over from one set to another did (i.e., basic settings such as contrast, brightness, plus the general 'pro' settings such as AGC, black extension, etc.) I noticed that grayscale OOTB with the set on warm 2 had an average dE2000 of around 3.5, so not too bad but not great either. On this particular set, it was consistent in being a bit red-deficient across the board, which is also pretty easy to tell in the grayscale settings I came up with (which cuts both green and blue on both the high and low end by around the same amount and leaves red alone). After doing that, except for a small bump where the dE remained around 2 at 30% (which I could have improved, but doing so came at a cost of greatly increasing the error at lower brightness levels), dE was <1 across the board, so very consistent and very good grayscale performance post-calibration.
Gamma averaged ~2.35 in the end, very close to my preferred 2.4. Keeping those that prefer a 2.2 gamma in mind, I also looked at using 2.2 gamma in the set but its performance seemed to be way off - I was seeing gamma much lower - closer to 2.0...
Then for color calibration, I first minimized color error using the basic color controls (meaning color, tint, and the 'pro' color gamut) controls, which still yielded an average dE of around 5 and max of around 10 with the color checker. I consistently found almost all colors (both in saturation and luminance sweeps, as well as color checker swatches) to be oversaturated by at least 10-15% and under-bright by a comparable amount. The hue was very close to in-line with all of these. The Color Detail (CMS) controls fortunately operated pretty much as you'd expect they should have (which isn't always the case - I've calibrated several sets with horribly broken CMS implementations that you're better off not using at all
), so I had no problem correcting these errors to be much smaller. Before I started, reds in particular, were noticeably quite oversaturated - perhaps why quite a few people have said reds are too strong on their sets when using warm 2 for their base grayscale setting?
Post-calibration, dE for all the primarily green and red-based colors (so greens, reds, browns, oranges, yellow, etc.) ended up in the 1-2 range (so basically non-existent). Blue was a bit more problematic - getting those colors (blues, magentas, cyans, etcs.) looking really good in the color checker had significant error in saturation sweeps and vice versa, so I compromised on them to somewhat minimize both. In the end they also ended up good, just not quite as good as those in the other part of the color spectrum - they averaged around 2.5 dE, max of around 4 IIRC (in both the color checker and the saturation and luminance sweeps).
FWIW, in looking at fc99's last calibration report on his 50" S60 set, I noticed the error in colors extremely closely mirror what I was seeing on gregleg's 65" S64 before I minimized / eliminated them, so I half-wonder if he wouldn't minimize color errors a bit more with CMS settings closer to mine (significantly cutting saturation and increasing luminance in the CMS). Also for those wondering about whether settings carrying over from one set to another with the obvious variance in one set to another (based on the differences in grayscale settings), I still tend to think the answer is yes, outside grayscale settings.
So basically, assuming you have a good base D65 grayscale and at least somewhat sensible gamma response, chances are pretty good the CMS settings I came up with should work pretty well. I'm tending to think best results if you can't calibrate grayscale on your own would be to use Warm 2, set AGC and black extension to 0, use mid panel brightness (basically copy all settings), other than the Pro grayscale settings (meaning the high and low RGB settings). This sounds like fc99's recommendations as well, but I have one difference: the Color Detail settings probably basically carry over so I'd copy those as well.