Samsung PNxxF4500 Owners Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 706 Old 01-13-2014, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MediaFan63 View Post

Hmmm, mine says there is no update at this time.

You have to download it from the Samsung website.
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post #92 of 706 Old 01-13-2014, 02:21 PM
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Can I load it on a flash drive? We're only on mobiles at the moment.

I remember when products were built to last.
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post #93 of 706 Old 01-13-2014, 04:18 PM
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Yes. A Flash drive is exactly how you install it.
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post #94 of 706 Old 01-13-2014, 05:20 PM
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Is it importent to update the tv? And if so why I need some help
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post #95 of 706 Old 01-13-2014, 05:41 PM
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Before I discuss comparing this TV with other plasmas and panel types, I have noticed that Samsung sells the PN43F4500 and PN43F4550. What is the difference between the 4500 and 4550? I have noticed that you can buy both directly from Samsung, yet you can only buy the 4500 from other places. If anyone knows the difference(s), please explain.

After reading a review of the PN51F4500 at televisioninfo.com, this looks like it might be a good TV for those who need a plasma under 50 inches, yet missed out on the Panasonic TC-P42S60 and can't stop bellyaching about it. I understand that LG plasmas have worse contrast than some LCD panels! How long do I have before I miss out on the chance to get a brand new PN43F4500/4550 before they disappear like the Panasonic TC-P42S60 did? Considering the viewing angle and contrast ratio, I'd say that this Samsung plasma is better than some of the best and more expensive LCD panels. Besides, there will always be opertunity for LCD, but somehow, I think that I should grab one of these before I regret missing out on it.
It turns out that the 4500 has a black finish, while the 4550 has a cool gray finish.

For those of us who are bellyaching about missing out on the Panasonic TC-P42S60, after reading reviews at televisioninfo.com, it looks like the Samsung PN##F4500 might be our second chance, as long as the fact that this TV is 720p, not 1080p like the Panasonic. As far as contrast ratio is concerned, with a reported 157.8 CD/M2 white level and a 0.02 CD/M2 black level, that gives this TV a better static contrast than some of the best LCD TVs of today.

I hope my house gets fixed up from Hurricane Sandy within a few months. I would rather wait and get the TV when I'm ready to move back in so I can take full advantage of the one-year warranty. However, to this day, I'll always regret missing out on the Panasonic. The way I see it, there will be plenty of opertunity to get an LCD TV in the years to come. However, after all the good I've read about plasmas, I would hate to live with the idea that I never had a chance to experience some of the best picture quality in AV history. Should I consider taking full advantage of the one-year warranty and wait until I'm ready to move back in, or just buy one of these now and store it some place to have ready ahead of time so I don't miss out? Thank you.
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post #96 of 706 Old 01-13-2014, 07:59 PM
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I can't believe where this world is coming to. Plasma has better picture quality than LCD, yet it costs less than LCD! You'd think that it's a no-brainer solution! Is the peak brightness the only reason the world leans towards LCD? I am big on high peak brightness, but when you divide the white level by the black level of most plasmas, you'll notice a higher static contrast ratio than when you divide the white level by the black level of the best LCDs without some kind of backlight autodimming engaged. The more I think about it, I'd rather have a higher static contrast ratio and make the room as dark as possible if necessary. So I say get a plasma and make your room dark until OLED is more affordable and available from 13 inches to 120 inches. That's my words of wisdom for the night.
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post #97 of 706 Old 01-13-2014, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justlou View Post

Yes. A Flash drive is exactly how you install it.
Thanks, I can do it at work.

Thanks again,

Anthony

I remember when products were built to last.
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post #98 of 706 Old 01-15-2014, 04:45 PM
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Just a quick update regarding gaming on the PNxxF4500.  After having some more time to spend with it, I am now completely convinced that this TV has the best 480p output I have ever seen, and that includes the native 480p CRT sets that I used prior to buying this one.

 

In a previous post I stated that in 4:3 mode Super Mario Galaxy looked as good as or possibly slightly better than my previous 480p favorite, the Hitachi Ultravision Digital 36" CRT.  After finding I had a problem with my cheap Wii component video cable (slight video noise/crawling dots visible on dark backgrounds)  and replacing with a high-quality Rocketfish Wii cable (which, despite my skepticism, completely fixed the problem), the set now outputs the best Wii & Gamecube 480p I have ever seen, bar none.

 

Earlier I had mentioned the 4:3 mode looked a bit better than 16:9 mode for the Wii, even when playing games that supported 16:9 like Mario Galaxy.  Well, not anymore-- Mario Galaxy and FZero GX, both set to 16:9 / 480p modes in game, TV set to 16:9, look absolutely stupendous!!!  Its hard to describe how good they look-- absolutely no blurriness-- crisp lines, gorgeous colors, incredible contrast.

 

If you have ever tried to play a Wii or Gamecube on a 1080p LCD set, even using component cables and 480p output, you know how crap they look.  A blurry, washed out mess.  When I say these systems look good on this TV, I'm not just saying they look "good enough"-- I'm saying they look the best I have ever seen them, by far. 

 

Also, I have a Genesis Model 1, SNES (Model 2), and N64 that I have modded to output RGB and going through a RGB/component converter and I must also say that this set handles them incredibly well without any fancy

upscalers or scan line generators.  Sure they are missing the classic scanlines, but they are very very good looking without them, using 4:3 mode on the TV.  No artifacts, no overscan/underscan problems, just a beautiful, sharp looking picture.  The Genesis and SNES look as good as a PC running an emulator on the set.  The N64 does not look quite as good as they do, but this set adds a slight bit of softening to the edges of N64 games that is absent when displayed on 1080p sets, which look overly sharp and pixelly when displaying its low resolution.  This actually makes it look better.

 

I'm currently trying to figure out how to take good pictures of the set in game, and will post ASAP.  In conclusion, I'd go so far as to say this may be the best HD set for SD gaming money can buy, assuming you have the right cables (component and RGB SCART). 

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post #99 of 706 Old 01-15-2014, 06:15 PM
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Pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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post #100 of 706 Old 01-16-2014, 05:39 PM
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I went to Kaymart and bought a PN43F4500. My brother did the physical assembly and put it in the shelf. I updated the firmware to Version 1027.2. I turned off all the ECO and screen protection settings. Finally, I calibrated the Dynamic, Standard, and Movie modes. Here are my settings.




Option - Dynamic - Standard - Movie



Cell Light - 20 - 20 - 20

Contrast - 100 - 100 - 100

Brightness - Low 50s - Low 50s - Low 50s

Sharpness - 0 - 0 - 0

Color - 50 - 50 - 50

Tint (G/R) - G50/R50 - G50/R50 - G50/R50

Dynamic Contrast - NA*1 - Off - Off

Black Tone - NA*1 - Off - Off

Flesh Tone - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Color Space - NA*1 - Auto - Auto

10Pt White Balance - NA*1 - Off - Off

R Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

G Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

B Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

R Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

G Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

B Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

Gamma - NA*1 - 0 - 0

White Balance - NA*1 - Off - Off

Motion Lighting - NA*1 - Off - Off

Color Temperature - Standard - Standard - Standard

Black Optimizer - Off - Off - Off

Digital Clean View - Off - Off - Off

MPEG Noise Filter - Off - Off - Off

HDMI Black Level - NA*2 - NA*2 - NA*2

Film Mode - Off - Off - Off

(*1)The Advanced Settings are not available in Dynamic mode.

(*2)When inputting unprocessed YCbCr4:2:2 HDTV, Blu-ray, and DVD sources, HDMI black level is not available.


To the human eye, blacks don't glow at all! If the test equipment in the link I provided came up with a black level of 0.02 CD/M2, maybe tests should be done to see just how high a TV's black level can be before we start to see a glow. It's possible that the industry might be able to cut costs and not have to try to the point the machines say 0 CD/M2.

I don't know if it's because I grew up with CRTs, but I love the rich color and grayscale curve the Dynamic mode provides. Although Movie mode is probably the most scientificly correct mode, so therefore, I should start getting used to it.
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post #101 of 706 Old 01-17-2014, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

I went to Kaymart and bought a PN43F4500. My brother did the physical assembly and put it in the shelf. I updated the firmware to Version 1027.2. I turned off all the ECO and screen protection settings. Finally, I calibrated the Dynamic, Standard, and Movie modes. Here are my settings.




Option - Dynamic - Standard - Movie



Cell Light - 20 - 20 - 20

Contrast - 100 - 100 - 100

Brightness - Low 50s - Low 50s - Low 50s

Sharpness - 0 - 0 - 0

Color - 50 - 50 - 50

Tint (G/R) - G50/R50 - G50/R50 - G50/R50

Dynamic Contrast - NA*1 - Off - Off

Black Tone - NA*1 - Off - Off

Flesh Tone - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Color Space - NA*1 - Auto - Auto

10Pt White Balance - NA*1 - Off - Off

R Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

G Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

B Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

R Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

G Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

B Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

Gamma - NA*1 - 0 - 0

White Balance - NA*1 - Off - Off

Motion Lighting - NA*1 - Off - Off

Color Temperature - Standard - Standard - Standard

Black Optimizer - Off - Off - Off

Digital Clean View - Off - Off - Off

MPEG Noise Filter - Off - Off - Off

HDMI Black Level - NA*2 - NA*2 - NA*2

Film Mode - Off - Off - Off

(*1)The Advanced Settings are not available in Dynamic mode.

(*2)When inputting unprocessed YCbCr4:2:2 HDTV, Blu-ray, and DVD sources, HDMI black level is not available.


To the human eye, blacks don't glow at all! If the test equipment in the link I provided came up with a black level of 0.02 CD/M2, maybe tests should be done to see just how high a TV's black level can be before we start to see a glow. It's possible that the industry might be able to cut costs and not have to try to the point the machines say 0 CD/M2.

I don't know if it's because I grew up with CRTs, but I love the rich color and grayscale curve the Dynamic mode provides. Although Movie mode is probably the most scientificly correct mode, so therefore, I should start getting used to it.
Questions:

Are 2P and 10P white balance the same thing as the RGB gains and offsets in the standard White Balance menu?

Also, when adjusting the RGB in the Custom Color Space menu, are you adjusting the RGB for the darker parts of the picture, the brighter parts of the picture, or the overall picture?
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post #102 of 706 Old 01-17-2014, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

I went to Kaymart and bought a PN43F4500. My brother did the physical assembly and put it in the shelf. I updated the firmware to Version 1027.2. I turned off all the ECO and screen protection settings. Finally, I calibrated the Dynamic, Standard, and Movie modes. Here are my settings.




Option - Dynamic - Standard - Movie



Cell Light - 20 - 20 - 20

Contrast - 100 - 100 - 100

Brightness - Low 50s - Low 50s - Low 50s

Sharpness - 0 - 0 - 0

Color - 50 - 50 - 50

Tint (G/R) - G50/R50 - G50/R50 - G50/R50

Dynamic Contrast - NA*1 - Off - Off

Black Tone - NA*1 - Off - Off

Flesh Tone - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Color Space - NA*1 - Auto - Auto

10Pt White Balance - NA*1 - Off - Off

R Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

G Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

B Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

R Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

G Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

B Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 50

Gamma - NA*1 - 0 - 0

White Balance - NA*1 - Off - Off

Motion Lighting - NA*1 - Off - Off

Color Temperature - Standard - Standard - Standard

Black Optimizer - Off - Off - Off

Digital Clean View - Off - Off - Off

MPEG Noise Filter - Off - Off - Off

HDMI Black Level - NA*2 - NA*2 - NA*2

Film Mode - Off - Off - Off

(*1)The Advanced Settings are not available in Dynamic mode.

(*2)When inputting unprocessed YCbCr4:2:2 HDTV, Blu-ray, and DVD sources, HDMI black level is not available.


To the human eye, blacks don't glow at all! If the test equipment in the link I provided came up with a black level of 0.02 CD/M2, maybe tests should be done to see just how high a TV's black level can be before we start to see a glow. It's possible that the industry might be able to cut costs and not have to try to the point the machines say 0 CD/M2.

I don't know if it's because I grew up with CRTs, but I love the rich color and grayscale curve the Dynamic mode provides. Although Movie mode is probably the most scientificly correct mode, so therefore, I should start getting used to it.
Questions:

Are 2P and 10P white balance the same thing as the RGB gains and offsets in the standard White Balance menu?

Also, when adjusting the RGB in the Custom Color Space menu, are you adjusting the RGB for the darker parts of the picture, the brighter parts of the picture, or the overall picture?
I read a PDF from Samsung. Custom color space is basicly adjusting RGB level and saturation. 10P white balance is basicly changing the color temperature of 10 individual shades of white. I was going to delete my previous post, but I thought that if someone else had these questions, I would keep my post so someone could answer them. Then I thought that as long as I found the answers, I might as well explain these functions in a more intelligible way. I hope someone found this useful.
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post #103 of 706 Old 01-17-2014, 04:26 PM
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1st of all my settings are more accurate way more and 2nd I ask for you people to help and non of you helped I wish I never game my settings to you rats, for those who chose to do nothing for those this does not mean you
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post #104 of 706 Old 01-17-2014, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabansosic93 View Post

1st of all my settings are more accurate way more and 2nd I ask for you people to help and non of you helped I wish I never game my settings to you rats, for those who chose to do nothing for those this does not mean you

I like your style.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #105 of 706 Old 01-17-2014, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabansosic93 View Post

1st of all my settings are more accurate way more and 2nd I ask for you people to help and non of you helped I wish I never game my settings to you rats, for those who chose to do nothing for those this does not mean you

I like your style.
Isn't calibration adjusting according to ... let's say ... the directions that are included with the THX Optimizer? That's how I adjust.
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post #106 of 706 Old 01-18-2014, 04:44 AM
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What kind of HDMI picture quality issues have been resolved with later firmware updates? I read that this TV doesn't look as good when inputting full 1080p. My brother and I just watched the 2009 Blu-ray edition of "Van Helsing" with the player set to 1080/24p, and we swear we'd never go back to LCD again!
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post #107 of 706 Old 01-18-2014, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

What kind of HDMI picture quality issues have been resolved with later firmware updates? I read that this TV doesn't look as good when inputting full 1080p. My brother and I just watched the 2009 Blu-ray edition of "Van Helsing" with the player set to 1080/24p, and we swear we'd never go back to LCD again!

The June 1017 firmware update seemed to improve white balance and black levels. I haven't noticed any differences with the December 1027 firmware, and Samsung doesn't list any changes.
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post #108 of 706 Old 01-18-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by justlou View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

What kind of HDMI picture quality issues have been resolved with later firmware updates? I read that this TV doesn't look as good when inputting full 1080p. My brother and I just watched the 2009 Blu-ray edition of "Van Helsing" with the player set to 1080/24p, and we swear we'd never go back to LCD again!

The June 1017 firmware update seemed to improve white balance and black levels. I haven't noticed any differences with the December 1027 firmware, and Samsung doesn't list any changes.
When it comes to TVs, Blu-ray players, and A/V receivers, I have a habit of updating to the latest software/firmware before I do anything else. This way, I can reduce the chance of discovering issues as I am learning every detail of a device.
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post #109 of 706 Old 01-18-2014, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Isn't calibration adjusting according to ... let's say ... the directions that are included with the THX Optimizer? That's how I adjust.

You can adjust the basics - brightness, contrast and sharpness - by eye using a disc but calibrating requires measuring. You cannot accurately tell without a meter how far and in what direction your specific set is from the targeted standards.

The first part of the guide at http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322 does a great job of explaining the fundamentals.

Adjusting settings according to personal preference is not calibration.
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post #110 of 706 Old 01-18-2014, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabansosic93 View Post

...I ask for you people to help...

The following info is taken directly from the Samsung page for our Plasma...:

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/PN43F4500AFXZA
or
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/PN43F4550AFXZA


First off, download the Firmware Update from the above site...

or from this Direct link

Extract the Firmware from the zip file you downloaded.
The Firmware will be in a folder named "image".

Copy the "image" folder to a USB drive... then follow the directions below.



Samsung [Software Upgrade Procedure]

Important: Please read the upgrade instructions below thoroughly before you start.
Do NOT unplug the power or remove the USB drive at any time during the firmware upgrade process.

Update procedure:

1) With the TV turned OFF, insert your USB drive into the USB port on the side (or rear) of the TV.

2) Press the Power button on your TV to turn it on.

3) Press the Menu button on your Samsung TV Remote Control.

4) Press the Up or Down arrow key to select Support and press ENTER.

5) Press the Up or Down arrow key to select Software Update and press ENTER

Note: If Software Update is grayed out wait 1-2 minutes and check again.

6) The message "Scanning for USB" will appear on the TV screen

7) When an update is found you will see the message to start update, OK will be highlighted, press ENTER to begin installation.

8) The Software Update will start automatically.

9) When complete you will be notified and the TV will turn off and on automatically.

Note: If at any point your TV does not turn back on automatically it is safe to do so manually after waiting 60 seconds.

If you have any questions or need additional assistance with the firmware update installation,
check out the how-to guide on your model’s support page or call Samsung customer service at 1-800-SAMSUNG (726-7864).


Hope this helps.

I'm like a beaver...
A hot little beaver...
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post #111 of 706 Old 01-18-2014, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Isn't calibration adjusting according to ... let's say ... the directions that are included with the THX Optimizer? That's how I adjust.

You can adjust the basics - brightness, contrast and sharpness - by eye using a disc but calibrating requires measuring. You cannot accurately tell without a meter how far and in what direction your specific set is from the targeted standards.

The first part of the guide at http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322 does a great job of explaining the fundamentals.
I can't afford the equipment used for such procedures. While it is reassuring to have all the audio/video scientifics right, if you can't afford to do so, it's what the human eyes and human ears detect that ultimately matter. Although I am using a 2006 DVD 480i edition of the THX Optimizer. To make sure it displays without any processing, I set my Blu-ray player to 480i 4:3 Letterbox, and the TV to 4:3. I use the "Brightness" and "Monitor Performance" screens. Considering that Blu-rays are recorded with the same YCbCr4:2:0 color space as DVDs, my instincts tell me that whether presented in 480i or 1080p, it shouldn't be a problem.
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post #112 of 706 Old 01-19-2014, 05:45 PM
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After spending a lot of time alone in the dark with this TV, I came up with new settings. I came up with these using the THX Optimizer found on the Starwars Episode IV two-DVD set. Here they are!




Option - Dynamic - Standard - Movie



Cell Light - 20 - 20 - 20

Contrast - 100 - 100 - 100

Brightness - 64 - 45 - 45

Sharpness - 0 - 0 - 0

Color - 50 - 50 - 50

Tint (G/R) - G50/R50 - G50/R50 - G50/R50

Dynamic Contrast - NA*1 - Off - Off

Black Tone - NA*1 - Off - Off

RGB Mode - Off

Flesh Tone - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Color Space - NA*1 - Auto - Auto

R Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

G Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

B Offset - NA*1 - 25 - 25

R Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 25

G Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 25

B Gain - NA*1 - 25 - 25

10P White Balance - NA*1 - NA3* - Off

Gamma - NA*1 - 0 - 0

Motion Lighting - NA*1 - Off - Off

Color Temperature - Standard - Standard - Standard

Black Optimizer - Off - Off - Off

Digital Clean View - Off - Off - Off

MPEG Noise Filter - Off - Off - Off

HDMI Black Level - NA*2 - NA*2 - NA*2

Film Mode - Off - Off - Off

(*1)The Advanced Settings are not available in Dynamic mode.

(*2) 10P White Balance is not available in Standard mode.

(*3)When inputting unprocessed YCbCr4:2:2 HDTV, Blu-ray, and DVD sources, HDMI black level is not available.

As bright the whites and rich the colors are in Dynamic mode, I have discovered that almost everything is shown at the same level. I'm beginning to prefer the wide range of Movie mode.
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post #113 of 706 Old 01-20-2014, 03:38 AM
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Just a quick update regarding gaming on the PNxxF4500.  After having some more time to spend with it, I am now completely convinced that this TV has the best 480p output I have ever seen, and that includes the native 480p CRT sets that I used prior to buying this one.

He he he... I'm glad you F4500 guys are finding out just what a gem this little set is. I guarantee you that 6 or 7 years ago when 720P sets were still considered high end in the plasma world, this TV would have been a REFERENCE QUALITY picture by any possible standard.

It is only because 720P is considered a step down or "entry level" now that this TV doesn't get many accolades or attention, but I too noticed when I had mine (got it for 386.00 open box at BB with 0 hours on it, customer remorse return) that even after now having been through let's see... LG 60PN5300, Sharp Elite LCD, Panasonic 55VT60, 2 Panasonic ZT60s, and now my 141FD Kuro... the Sammy F4500 can hang with ANY of them if not in outright black level, in color purity, shadow detail (this is a BIG one) and accuracy. It is one of the few TVs I've owned that I was happy with the PQ right out of the box with only minor tweaks to the cell light and brightness. That was it. Didn't have to do squat to it other than that (and disabling all the enhancement garbage) to be very pleased.

Sold it to a kid for 350 bucks after just a few months when I was convinced it was time to move on to one of these last edition displays, but if you are looking at this TV, and can live with the wider pixel pitch of the 720P screen, you are in for a treat.

EDIT: Forgot my brother's F8500 Sammy I also installed and used for a time. Yep, the F4500 is good.
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post #114 of 706 Old 01-20-2014, 06:51 PM
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Just reporting an observation:

When the room is completely dark, blacks do have a glow to them. However, considering the near LCD brightness with the Cell Light set to 20 and the Contrast set to 100, it is a lot less than with LCDs. So even though this TV may not be a CRT, KURO, or OLED, it is still plenty better than an LCD. Did I mention that this TV doesn't have the same color undersaturation issues as LCDs? Well, it doesn't. If you need something under 50", hurry up and grab one before everyone runs out! Because once that happens, we'll be stuck with LG plasmas, which from what I read, while the color may be better than with LCDs, the black levels are similar.
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post #115 of 706 Old 01-21-2014, 02:53 PM
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I totally agree, it only took a minute to make up my mind. When I got it in a dark room I said wow, this is never going back.

I remember when products were built to last.
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post #116 of 706 Old 01-21-2014, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big C View Post

Just reporting an observation:

When the room is completely dark, blacks do have a glow to them. However, considering the near LCD brightness with the Cell Light set to 20 and the Contrast set to 100, it is a lot less than with LCDs. So even though this TV may not be a CRT, KURO, or OLED, it is still plenty better than an LCD. Did I mention that this TV doesn't have the same color undersaturation issues as LCDs? Well, it doesn't. If you need something under 50", hurry up and grab one before everyone runs out! Because once that happens, we'll be stuck with LG plasmas, which from what I read, while the color may be better than with LCDs, the black levels are similar.

I have the 51" version and Im completely satisfied with it.  I'd definitely recommend it, dont be afraid of the size x 720p.  We watch from about 9' away and it looks terrific.  All broadcast terrestrial and satellite video is either 720p or 1080i anyway.  Supersampled 1080p (PS4) for ex., looks great on it as well.  For the money it can't be beat.

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post #117 of 706 Old 01-22-2014, 03:44 AM
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I don't know where to post this, so I posted it in two places.

When playing SD DVDs, normally, I would prefer to leave De-Interlacing and upscaling off and have the black bars on the sides (and top and bottom if widescreen/4:3 Letterbox) in order to keep them distinguishable from Blu-rays, as well as to reduce even the slightest chance of motion lag as a result of processing (de-interlacing and upscaling). However, on a Plasma, I understand that might cause after-image/burn-in/image-retention. My TV is a Samsung 4500 series 720p (actually 768 pixels vertical) plasma, and my Blu-ray player is a Yamaha Aventage BD-A1010, which uses the MediaTek MT8530 CPU for its de-interlacing and upscaling. For the best results, what would be the best approach?

A. Just set the player to 4:3 Letterbox/480i and the TV to 4:3? Are the bars safe?

B. Set the player to 4:3 Letterbox/480i and the TV to 16:9?

C. set the player to 16:9 Wide/1080i to accomidate for the TV's 768 vertical pixels and the TV to Screen Fit?

Thanks for your input.
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post #118 of 706 Old 01-22-2014, 05:43 AM
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I have had this tv for about a week,wonderful picture quality on all sources. I vary the contrast from 60 with stations with logos and scrolls to 85 on HDNET and stretch dvd movies to fill the screen.I am not quite ready to letterbox movies yet. No ir at all so far. I had an led before this set ,the depth of the picture with the plasma is tremendous compared to the led.Bought the 43'' version for 378$. The build date is December 2013. I assume that all the updates are already installed.
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post #119 of 706 Old 01-22-2014, 01:18 PM
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The TV's 480i deinterlacing is good for films and good enough for games, but it certainly performs better when fed a progressive signal.  If you absolutely must have bars on the

side, set your player to output 480p, and if you are concerned about IR, set the 4:3 mode on the TV to have white bars on the side instead of black.

 

The TV can accept 1080p as well-- if you are feeding 1080p Blu-ray content, that is a 16:9 mode anyway. Also super-sampled (downscaled) 1080p should look the best on your 1024x768 set, being that the TV applies scaling to all other resolutions anyway.   In the end, its really a matter of user preference. 

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post #120 of 706 Old 01-22-2014, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post

The TV's 480i deinterlacing is good for films and good enough for games, but it certainly performs better when fed a progressive signal.  If you absolutely must have bars on the
side, set your player to output 480p, and if you are concerned about IR, set the 4:3 mode on the TV to have white bars on the side instead of black.

The TV can accept 1080p as well-- if you are feeding 1080p Blu-ray content, that is a 16:9 mode anyway. Also super-sampled (downscaled) 1080p should look the best on your 1024x768 set, being that the TV applies scaling to all other resolutions anyway.   In the end, its really a matter of user preference. 
You'd think that gray or white bars would be putting the panel at more risk for IR than black bars, since gray/white bars are producing more light, heat, and energy than black bars. You guys are saying the opposite. I'm sure there's a reason. Please explain.
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