Samsung PNxxF4500 Owners Thread - Page 47 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1381 of 1409 Old 02-27-2015, 07:25 AM
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Thank you 22point8. My set is about 3 weeks old. It is a 51F4500 B panel. I ran slides for about 150 hours, and now have about 200 hours on the set. I had been using your 1000 hour settings because I do not like cinema smooth, and you did not originally have 2000 hour blu-ray settings with cinema smooth off. I put in your new blu-ray settings with cinema smooth off, including color space, 2 pt, and 10pt settings. In the short time I have viewed these settings, to my subjective eye, it is the best picture I have had on the set. Anyone with an A or B panel should at least try these settings.
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post #1382 of 1409 Old 02-27-2015, 07:29 AM
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Oh, I should add. My set is in a completely dark room. I dialed the cell light down from 20 to 16. I think I like that better in my room. But not a big difference.
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post #1383 of 1409 Old 02-27-2015, 08:07 AM
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Over at the shmups forum it was discovered that game mode does nothing (37ms input lag with leo bodnar tester) and PC was 38ms, so it depends whether you want the better black level from the black optimiser in standard, or lesser black level rise (MLL vs APL)with PC mode.

If you have an 'A' model PC is good 'out of the box', don't know about the 'B'.
Actually, I confirmed that with my SNES FZero photo tests on this thread quite a while before I began the discussion at shmups.

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Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA


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post #1384 of 1409 Old 02-27-2015, 08:18 PM
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I got the stand on. I only had one screwdriver, and it was tiny. Apparently, mine was too small to give enough leverage to do what it needed.

So now to get to more technical stuff. I'll repeat my model, it's a PN43F4500, a B model according to the back of the tv. I'll be using component cables and not HDMI, partly because my gaming headphones use the red and white audio jacks and partly because my 360 is a dinosaur 2006 model that has somehow managed to avoid the red ring of death. 360 models that old don't even have hdmi ports on them. Should I set my consoles to standard, limited, or advanced black levels for a plasma (this isn't just my first plasma, this is my first real hdtv that is actually mine and not borrowed, so I'm quite ignorant here) Also, I don't like widescreen a ton, will setting most games to 4:3 aspect ratio make things look ugly? If so, I'll just keep it widescreen like it should be. What settings are most accurate for the most true picture as far as saturation and color and lighting go?

Oh, and I need to ask something I heard recently. Does turning up the cell lighting make your tv die faster? I heard you want to keep that low (a 4 or 5) because it will make the cell thingies that make the tv work burn out faster the higher the setting. Having it high makes your tv look great, but makes it die faster because the cells will need to work harder. Is this true? Because I want a great picture, but I don't want to risk killing my tv faster.

Finally, I heard more modern plasmas like mine only really get burn-in for the first hundred hours of use. That true? I hope it is, with how much I'll be using it I'll probably clear 100 hours within a week.

Also, I haven't had much chance to look at it, but I've heard plasmas can have a noticeable flicker to the screen. Does anyone notice something like that, or is that something plasmas used to do when the tech wasn't as good?

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post #1385 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 02:07 AM
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If you cant see any metal, they may thread themselves. They would be hard to start at first, then thread themselves in-- you should be OK to tighten them to the point where the bracket feels tight and firm on the panel.
^Much better explanation than mine.

My recollection is that the base on the 43F4500 is plastic, and "self-threading" like you described above. But I think the TV frame is (non-hardened) steel. So either one can be stripped, if you're not too careful.

Re viewing distance... the 43" model looked good to me at about 6 or 7 feet. 2-3 feet is too close imo (and also likely to cause eyestrain). The 43" model can get very bright btw, so I suggest keeping a few lights on around the TV.

For best image quality, leave Contrast on the high side (usually in the mid-90's), and use either the Eco Solution/Energy Saving options, and/or Cell Light control to adjust the TV's brightness to levels that are comfortable for your viewing conditions and content.

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post #1386 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 02:56 AM
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^Much better explanation than mine.

My recollection is that the base on the 43F4500 is plastic, and "self-threading" like you described above. But I think the TV frame is (non-hardened) steel. So either one can be stripped, if you're not too careful.

Re viewing distance... the 43" model looked good to me at about 6 or 7 feet. 2-3 feet is too close imo (and also likely to cause eyestrain). The 43" model can get very bright btw, so I suggest keeping a few lights on around the TV.

For best image quality, leave Contrast on the high side (usually in the mid-90's), and use either the Eco Solution/Energy Saving options, and/or Cell Light control to adjust the TV's brightness to levels that are comfortable for your viewing conditions and content.
You didn't actually answer any of the questions in my last post, and I already said I took care of the issue with the base. I want to know if flickering in a problem and if leaving cell light too high burns the tv out faster.

I'll be sitting that close, in a room that I can keep nearly pitch black even in the brightest part of the day. I'm not changing that setup, especially for a plasma which I know looks best in a dark room. And my gaming setup flat-out doesn't permit me to sit any further. I'm basically using this as a high quality gaming monitor than a true tv, and I fully intend for the tv's image to take up most of my vision. This is how I did it with the CRT with component outlets I had before this one, though in that case I sat within a foot and a half on account of it being a lot smaller (only a 22 inch tv) instead of the 2-3 feet I plan for the plasma... Any closer with the plasma, and I'll need to literally turn my head to look from side of the screen to the other like sitting front row at a movie theater. Fyi, I sit on the floor with a couple layers of cushy mats under me, The tv's size means I need a new thing to put my tv on instead of my old tv stand that was a foot and a half high, because the center of the screen being perfectly level with my eyes means the tv needs to be no more than 9 inches off the floor based on my measuring. I won't try to say this isn't a weird way to play games, but it's my way. Doing it this way gets you the most immersed in a game's atmosphere.

I know that high contrasts just wash the screen out, and every professional out that has said the key to a great image is mid to low contrast. Why would I crank it to 90?
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post #1387 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by andy6915 View Post
Also, I don't like widescreen a ton, will setting most games to 4:3 aspect ratio make things look ugly? If so, I'll just keep it widescreen like it should be....

...Finally, I heard more modern plasmas like mine only really get burn-in for the first hundred hours of use. That true? I hope it is, with how much I'll be using it I'll probably clear 100 hours within a week.
Plasma TVs are most susceptible to burn-in when they're brand new. That susceptibility gradually tapers off with the time, as the phosphors begin to lose their brightness, through wear. You shouldn't be worried about "wearing out" the phosphors though. What you should be concerned about is uneven wear. If, for example, you watch a lot of widescreen letterboxed films (like I do), then you may end up wearing down the brightness of the phosphors in the center of the screen faster than the top and bottom, where the black bars are located...



Screen cap of the 1963 film, The Haunting, letterboxed to its original 2.35:1 ratio.

You also run the same risks of uneven wear if you watch a lot of 4:3 pillarboxed content, with black bars on the sides. That's why you should try to diversify your viewing as much as possible. Content that fills the entire screen (without static logos, HUDs or other "screen bugs") will result in better and more even wear, esp. during the first few months of use.

The Screen Burn Protection menu does contain a "Side Gray" option for 4:3 content though, that will make the side bars gray rather than black (potentially resulting in more even wear).

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Oh, and I need to ask something I heard recently. Does turning up the cell lighting make your tv die faster? I heard you want to keep that low (a 4 or 5) because it will make the cell thingies that make the tv work burn out faster the higher the setting. Having it high makes your tv look great, but makes it die faster because the cells will need to work harder. Is this true? Because I want a great picture, but I don't want to risk killing my tv faster.
Both the Eco Solution/Energy Saving settings and Cell Light control the overall brightness of the TV. The Energy Saving settings basically control the range of brightness in the Cell Light control. The OFF Energy Saving setting allows the widest (and brightest) range of Cell Light adjustment. The HIGH Energy Saving setting basically locks the Cell Light control at it's lowest level, so it has little or no adjustability.

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What settings are most accurate for the most true picture as far as saturation and color and lighting go?
The Movie picture mode is most accurate out of the box. The Warm2 Temperature setting in that mode isn't entirely accurate though, so you might want to switch to Warm1, until you can figure out how to better adjust the TV's White Balance.

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Also, I haven't had much chance to look at it, but I've heard plasmas can have a noticeable flicker to the screen. Does anyone notice something like that, or is that something plasmas used to do when the tech wasn't as good?
The Sammy plasmas flicker at ~60Hz, much like the older CRT TVs. (Most current LED TVs will flicker at higher rates of 120Hz or 240Hz, or above.) If the 60Hz flicker bothers you, then I suggest either brightening the room light some more, or turning down the TV's brightness by using a higher Energy Saving setting, or lower Cell Light setting.

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post #1388 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 03:29 AM
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Plasma TVs are most susceptible to burn-in when they're brand new. That susceptibility gradually tapers off with the time, as the phosphors begin to lose their brightness, through wear. You shouldn't be worried about "wearing out" the phosphors though. What you should be concerned about is uneven wear. If, for example, you watch a lot of widescreen letterboxed films (like I do), then you may end up wearing down the brightness of the phosphors in the center of the screen faster than the top and bottom, where the black bars are located...



Screen cap of the 1963 film, The Haunting, letterboxed to its original 2.35:1 ratio.

You also run the same risks of uneven wear if you watch a lot of 4:3 pillarboxed content, with black bars on the sides. That's why you should try to diversify your viewing as much as possible. Content that fills the entire screen (without static logos, HUDs or other "screen bugs") will result in better and more even wear, esp. during the first few months of use.

The Screen Burn Protection menu does contain a "Side Gray" option for 4:3 content though, that will make the side bars gray rather than black (potentially resulting in more even wear).



Both the Eco Solution/Energy Saving settings and Cell Light control the overall brightness of the TV. The Energy Saving settings basically control the range of brightness in the Cell Light control. The OFF Energy Saving setting allows the widest (and brightest) range of Cell Light adjustment. The HIGH Energy Saving setting basically locks the Cell Light control at it's lowest level, so it has little or no adjustability.



The Movie picture mode is most accurate out of the box. The Warm2 Temperature setting in that mode isn't entirely accurate though, so you might want to switch to Warm1, until you can figure out how to better adjust the TV's White Balance.



The Sammy plasmas flicker at ~60Hz, much like the older CRT TVs. (Most current LED TVs will flicker at higher rates of 120Hz or 240Hz, or above.) If the 60Hz flicker bothers you, then I suggest either brightening the room light some more, or turning down the TV's brightness by using a higher Energy Saving setting, or lower Cell Light setting.
So higher cell light does wear it out faster? Guess I'll need to strike a balance.

"The Movie picture mode is most accurate out of the box. The Warm2 Temperature setting in that mode isn't entirely accurate though, so you might want to switch to Warm1, until you can figure out how to better adjust the TV's White Balance"


Until? No, I won't do anything before it's perfect. I took 12 hours adjusting my CRT to be as accurate as I could get it, and I'm not exaggerating on that time length. I won't play a single game until it's right, though I will have a few favorite games playing on it because I know what they look like and they'll help me adjust from memory. I won't actually use the tv for fun until EVERYTHING is right, white balance included.
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post #1389 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 03:41 AM
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More crossed posts.

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Originally Posted by andy6915 View Post
I'll be sitting that close, in a room that I can keep nearly pitch black even in the brightest part of the day. I'm not changing that setup, especially for a plasma which I know looks best in a dark room. And my gaming setup flat-out doesn't permit me to sit any further. I'm basically using this as a high quality gaming monitor than a true tv, and I fully intend for the tv's image to take up most of my vision. This is how I did it with the CRT with component outlets I had before this one, though in that case I sat within a foot and a half on account of it being a lot smaller (only a 22 inch tv) instead of the 2-3 feet I plan for the plasma... Any closer with the plasma, and I'll need to literally turn my head to look from side of the screen to the other like sitting front row at a movie theater. Fyi, I sit on the floor with a couple layers of cushy mats under me, The tv's size means I need a new thing to put my tv on instead of my old tv stand that was a foot and a half high, because the center of the screen being perfectly level with my eyes means the tv needs to be no more than 9 inches off the floor based on my measuring. I won't try to say this isn't a weird way to play games, but it's my way. Doing it this way gets you the most immersed in a game's atmosphere.
^ Copy that, good buddy.

Since you asked about your 2-3 foot viewing distance though, I gave you my opinion... which is that it's too close for this type of TV imho (esp. viewed in the dark).

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I know that high contrasts just wash the screen out, and every professional out that has said the key to a great image is mid to low contrast. Why would I crank it to 90?
The Energy Saving and Cell Light settings control the screen brightness on the Sammy plasmas. Contrast is simply used to set the white clip point, which is usually somewhere in the 90's. Higher Contrast settings will result in smoother shading with less dithering, which = better picture quality imo.

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post #1390 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 06:23 AM
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More crossed posts.



^ Copy that, good buddy.

Since you asked about your 2-3 foot viewing distance though, I gave you my opinion... which is that it's too close for this type of TV imho (esp. viewed in the dark).



The Energy Saving and Cell Light settings control the screen brightness on the Sammy plasmas. Contrast is simply used to set the white clip point, which is usually somewhere in the 90's. Higher Contrast settings will result in smoother shading with less dithering, which = better picture quality imo.
I was asking to know if I would get significant visual-quality loss, not the effect on me. I spend pretty much all the time I'm awake in front of a bright screen in one form or another, my eyes are used to strain.

The thing about contrast is that it washes the image out at too high of levels. I've heard that and seen it for myself.
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post #1391 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 08:15 AM
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I was asking to know if I would get significant visual-quality loss, not the effect on me. I spend pretty much all the time I'm awake in front of a bright screen in one form or another, my eyes are used to strain.

The thing about contrast is that it washes the image out at too high of levels. I've heard that and seen it for myself.
The Samsung 4500 series are rated for 50,000 brightness half life-- thats 23 years of watching 6 hours a day-- its a non-issue, regardless of the cell light you use, put it out of your mind.

Ive come to realize that for most rooms with ANY kind of controlled lighting, you really dont ever need to go over 15 cell light. In a dark/semi-dark room, any where from 8 to 12 is plenty bright. In brightly lit rooms, go for 18- 20. NOTE: Dont go over 14 cell light for any serious gaming until you get over 250 hours on your panel.

These sets dont clip whites until you get to contrast of over 95. You should be set to 93-95 for optimal contrast. If you are interested in the most accurate (rec 709 spec) settings, use 22point8's settings.

You mentioned you are using component-- I recently asked 22point8 if he would be willing to generate some component input settings a few days ago, and he said that he would do that-- watch in the near future for what he comes up with.

Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA

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post #1392 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 08:30 AM
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New settings at 2000 hours
Settings for HDMI 24P YUV (Blu-ray)


I just unboxed the tv and just started with these settings. My Cinema Smooth setting is greyed out as is the HDMI black level. Is there any reason these would be greyed out?

I'm using HDMI1 through a Comcast X1 box.

edit: Also under the 10p settings. What percentage should you choose before setting everything? Thanks again

edit 2: I just swtiched to HDMI2. This is hooked up to XBONE. HDMI Black level is an option, but Film mode is greyed out. Does the source dictate which options are available?

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post #1393 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 08:38 AM
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The Samsung 4500 series are rated for 50,000 brightness half life-- thats 23 years of watching 6 hours a day-- its a non-issue, regardless of the cell light you use, put it out of your mind.

Ive come to realize that for most rooms with ANY kind of controlled lighting, you really dont ever need to go over 15 cell light. In a dark/semi-dark room, any where from 8 to 12 is plenty bright. In brightly lit rooms, go for 18- 20. NOTE: Dont go over 14 cell light for any serious gaming until you get over 250 hours on your panel.

These sets dont clip whites until you get to contrast of over 95. You should be set to 93-95 for optimal contrast. If you are interested in the most accurate (rec 709 spec) settings, use 22point8's settings.

You mentioned you are using component-- I recently asked 22point8 if he would be willing to generate some component input settings a few days ago, and he said that he would do that-- watch in the near future for what he comes up with.
Copying settings is generally not going to give better picture quality due to variances from panel to panel. I plugged in 22Point8's most recent settings and it made my grayscale super pink. I think your best bet is to just go off of his guide.
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post #1394 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 09:00 AM
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The Samsung 4500 series are rated for 50,000 brightness half life-- thats 23 years of watching 6 hours a day-- its a non-issue, regardless of the cell light you use, put it out of your mind.

Ive come to realize that for most rooms with ANY kind of controlled lighting, you really dont ever need to go over 15 cell light. In a dark/semi-dark room, any where from 8 to 12 is plenty bright. In brightly lit rooms, go for 18- 20. NOTE: Dont go over 14 cell light for any serious gaming until you get over 250 hours on your panel.

These sets dont clip whites until you get to contrast of over 95. You should be set to 93-95 for optimal contrast. If you are interested in the most accurate (rec 709 spec) settings, use 22point8's settings.

You mentioned you are using component-- I recently asked 22point8 if he would be willing to generate some component input settings a few days ago, and he said that he would do that-- watch in the near future for what he comes up with.
Why over 250 hours? Is there something particular about that amount of hours that changes things?

And yeah, I have very controlled lighting. I can't make it actually pitch black in the day (yet), but I can get it dark enough that you need a light from a cell phone screen or something to see in the room with the room-light off and closing your eyes gets you absolute pitch blackness because of how little light is making it through the eyelids. That's why I have no problem with a plasma, I can get my room dark enough to make the plasma look its best.
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post #1395 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 09:16 AM
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Why over 250 hours? Is there something particular about that amount of hours that changes things?

And yeah, I have very controlled lighting. I can't make it actually pitch black in the day (yet), but I can get it dark enough that you need a light from a cell phone screen or something to see in the room with the room-light off and closing your eyes gets you absolute pitch blackness because of how little light is making it through the eyelids. That's why I have no problem with a plasma, I can get my room dark enough to make the plasma look its best.
plasma phosphors change more in the first ~200 hours than they do in the next ~2000 following. During this break in time, you don't really want any logos or stationary HUDs sitting on the screen too long.
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post #1396 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 09:17 AM
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I just unboxed the tv and just started with these settings. My Cinema Smooth setting is greyed out as is the HDMI black level. Is there any reason these would be greyed out?

I'm using HDMI1 through a Comcast X1 box.

edit: Also under the 10p settings. What percentage should you choose before setting everything? Thanks again

edit 2: I just swtiched to HDMI2. This is hooked up to XBONE. HDMI Black level is an option, but Film mode is greyed out. Does the source dictate which options are available?
The box is probably outputting 60p YUV. The cinema smooth only works when the TV is receiving 24p. The XBONE is outputting 60p RGB, thats why the HDMI black now works, if the XBONE is outputting RGB Limited (16-235) you want to select 'Low' on the TV, if its outputting Full (0-255) you would use 'Normal' on the TV.

Use RGB Limited (16-235) if you can, heres why: http://referencehometheater.com/2014...ll-vs-limited/
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plasma phosphors change more in the first ~200 hours than they do in the next ~2000 following. During this break in time, you don't really want any logos or stationary HUDs sitting on the screen too long.
No way I can avoid that then. I can't think of many games that don't have constant objects on the HUD. Even rpg's and stuff at least show a mini-map in the corner when not in a battle. And I don't have cable, so no tv watching will happen even if it was just to get through its break-in fast. Unless you think I should just leave a movie playing on it for the brightness and lighting on low whenever I'm sleeping or something to clear those hours quickly? Short of that, I can't do anything. What kind of issues will I have since I can't really avoid it?
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post #1398 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 09:38 AM
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The box is probably outputting 60p YUV. The cinema smooth only works when the TV is receiving 24p. The XBONE is outputting 60p RGB, thats why the HDMI black now works, if the XBONE is outputting RGB Limited (16-235) you want to select 'Low' on the TV, if its outputting Full (0-255) you would use 'Normal' on the TV.

Use RGB Limited (16-235) if you can, heres why: http://referencehometheater.com/2014...ll-vs-limited/
Thanks @22point8

I'm going to have to familiarize myself with what all that means. It's greek to me right now. Just as a start question. How do you tell if its outputting (16-235) or (0-255)?

What about the Level Percentage under 10p? It's default to 10%.

Thank you again?
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post #1399 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 09:59 AM
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Thanks @22point8

I'm going to have to familiarize myself with what all that means. It's greek to me right now. Just as a start question. How do you tell if its outputting (16-235) or (0-255)?

What about the Level Percentage under 10p? It's default to 10%.

Thank you again?
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=988325 that has a picture you can use as a test.

The 10p white balance controls the balance of red, green and blue at 10 intervals of grey, 10/20/30/40/50/60/70/80/90/100% so if you had a pattern like this

https://sunmaiblog.files.wordpress.c...-v1-4-2669.png

and adjust one of the intervals to an extreme then you'll easily see what it does.
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Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=988325 that has a picture you can use as a test.

The 10p white balance controls the balance of red, green and blue at 10 intervals of grey, 10/20/30/40/50/60/70/80/90/100% so if you had a pattern like this

https://sunmaiblog.files.wordpress.c...-v1-4-2669.png

and adjust one of the intervals to an extreme then you'll easily see what it does.
So basically the source will dictate what percentage you use? For instance my Comcast STB would have a different percentage than my Xbox right?
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post #1401 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kantonburg View Post
So basically the source will dictate what percentage you use? For instance my Comcast STB would have a different percentage than my Xbox right?
Almost all STB's and DVD/Blu-Ray players use 16-235, because most movie content is created/encoded in YCbCr limited range.

All PCs and console content is created /encoded in the RGB Full range. Your Xbone should auto detect what your TV is set to, but since game content is created in Full Range RGB, thats what I recommend using when possible. That way no conversion needs to take place at all. On Xbox 360 its called "Expanded Range". When using this, your F4500 needs to use the HDMI Black Level- Normal.

If you are sharing an HDMI input with an STB or Blu-Ray player, you will have to set the Xbone to limited range unless the player can be set to full range.

In the case where you are sharing an input, regardless of what you choose, movie content will either have to be converted by the players to 0-255 or game/pc content will have to be converted to 16-235.

Another good write-up can be found at the following link and recommends full range RGB for HDMI game systems.

http://www.waivingentropy.com/2014/0...s-guide/#link4

As I understand it, all true component video is restricted to YCbCr 16-235, which is why theres no choice of range for using analog component (such as older game systems).

Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA

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post #1402 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by andy6915 View Post
No way I can avoid that then. I can't think of many games that don't have constant objects on the HUD. Even rpg's and stuff at least show a mini-map in the corner when not in a battle. And I don't have cable, so no tv watching will happen even if it was just to get through its break-in fast. Unless you think I should just leave a movie playing on it for the brightness and lighting on low whenever I'm sleeping or something to clear those hours quickly? Short of that, I can't do anything. What kind of issues will I have since I can't really avoid it?
Dont worry-- you'll be fine. I broke in my F4500s at around 12 to 14 cell light, and I played games on them right from the start. I did also watch some TV on them as well, but I never had a problem. For gaming on a brand new panel, my best advice is to stay at 14 or under cell light, and try to vary the content for an hour or so after 2 or 3 hours if your game uses a HUD / Life Bar / etc.

Brightness and Contrast dont affect panel brightness, so dont worry about them-- focus solely on the Cell Light setting.

Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA

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post #1403 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by andy6915 View Post
Why over 250 hours? Is there something particular about that amount of hours that changes things?

And yeah, I have very controlled lighting. I can't make it actually pitch black in the day (yet), but I can get it dark enough that you need a light from a cell phone screen or something to see in the room with the room-light off and closing your eyes gets you absolute pitch blackness because of how little light is making it through the eyelids. That's why I have no problem with a plasma, I can get my room dark enough to make the plasma look its best.
You do realize theres no need to darken your room more than it naturally is with normal curtains or blinds, right? Pitch black is not necessary, as the panel itself still cannot quite reach pitch black. Controlled lighting semi/ dark is probably optimal. Some use a little bias lighting behind the set for a little more pop.

My AFXZA F4500 is in a room with 3 windows, and it performs fine in that room when set to a higher cell light. Even with just the blinds adjusted and quite a bit of light still entering the room, the set can look good with a 14 to 16 or so of cell light. You only need to go above 16 if you notice ABL often, depending on the content you watch.

Even Samsung acknowledges newer panels are more susceptible to IR than when they get a few months (read couple hundred hours) of normal use on them.

http://support-us.samsung.com/cyber/...lname=FP-T6374

Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA


Last edited by Josh128; 02-28-2015 at 02:49 PM.
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post #1404 of 1409 Old 02-28-2015, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
Almost all STB's and DVD/Blu-Ray players use 16-235, because most movie content is created/encoded in YCbCr limited range.

All PCs and console content is created /encoded in the RGB Full range. Your Xbone should auto detect what your TV is set to, but since game content is created in Full Range RGB, thats what I recommend using when possible. That way no conversion needs to take place at all. On Xbox 360 its called "Expanded Range". When using this, your F4500 needs to use the HDMI Black Level- Normal.

If you are sharing an HDMI input with an STB or Blu-Ray player, you will have to set the Xbone to limited range unless the player can be set to full range.

In the case where you are sharing an input, regardless of what you choose, movie content will either have to be converted by the players to 0-255 or game/pc content will have to be converted to 16-235.

Another good write-up can be found at the following link and recommends full range RGB for HDMI game systems.

http://www.waivingentropy.com/2014/0...s-guide/#link4

As I understand it, all true component video is restricted to YCbCr 16-235, which is why theres no choice of range for using analog component (such as older game systems).
Thanks @Josh128

One more question. On @22point8 's 10p settings
Now that I really look at it. Does interval 1 represent 10%, interval 2 represent 20%, etc?

thanks
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Originally Posted by 22point8 View Post
Redone Movie calibration specificaly for people who want cinema smooth off.

And as a bonus, have some pictures of chameleons from this demo clip:
http://www.demo-world.eu/download-2d...ther_world.jpg
(shame my camera sucks so it can't show much better it looks).


I am using this new setting for HDTV and Blu-Ray.
On my 43" B set, I have the WB (since it has to be swapped from your A settings)..
Red offset -5, Green offset +2, Blue offset 0, Red gain -1, Green gain +2, Blue gain +2.

For Cell Light I go go to 2-3 at night TV viewing, up to 12 with bright lights.
Contrast 93, Brightness 43, Sharpness 16, Color 53, Flesh tone +1 (any lower people look pale), Color Space your Custom settings, 10 pt your settings, Gamma -1 (or 0 depending on the show), Color Tone/Temp Warm 1 (Warm 2 makes whites too warm), Film mode Auto 1, Black Dark Room.
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post #1406 of 1409 Old Yesterday, 07:01 PM
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Here is an issue that I have not been able to find anyone else experiencing...

I'm seeing some unusual pixilation on my Samsung PN43F4500. The top half of the screen shows some blur and the bottom half shows things as normal. Is there a way to tweak a setting to even out the smoothness?

This is on the Video input only, as the HDMI and Component both show fine. I attached a screen shot to demonstrate what I'm seeing.
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post #1407 of 1409 Old Yesterday, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by polyphenus View Post
Here is an issue that I have not been able to find anyone else experiencing...

I'm seeing some unusual pixilation on my Samsung PN43F4500. The top half of the screen shows some blur and the bottom half shows things as normal. Is there a way to tweak a setting to even out the smoothness?

This is on the Video input only, as the HDMI and Component both show fine. I attached a screen shot to demonstrate what I'm seeing.
Well, you just found someone else who has experienced it. This is from the composite out of an NES running Everdrive, correct?

Unfortunately, the NES composite has tremendous dot crawl caused by chroma interference, and looks pretty terrible on most HDTVs. My NES does the same thing when using composite-- for some reason the top portion of the screen is more distorted than the rest.

Its not a problem with the composite input of the plasma-- if you use the same input with a SNES or N64, it will look a lot better-- but still not really acceptable.

Unfortunately your only recourse is to mod, or get someone else to mod, your NES for RGBs or component output. If going the RGBs route, you will then need to transcode to component and feed to your TV.

You really need to do this on all systems from NES to N64 for proper display on HDTVs. Its a bit overwhelming at first, but its fun and totally worth it. Once you mod your NES, it will look like the following pictures on your F4500.


Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA


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Actually, you hit the nail on the head! That is indeed an Everdrive N8, but it's running through a Super Retro Trio. The NES, and to an extent the SNES, both look like that on screen. The Genesis seems to look better. It's nice to know that my TV isn't broken! I've seen several examples of modified NES, SNES, and N64 consoles to display component video. Maybe it's time to look into doing it on my own consoles.

Great images and summary! Thank you very much for weighing in!

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Originally Posted by Josh128 View Post
Well, you just found someone else who has experienced it. This is from the composite out of an NES running Everdrive, correct?

Unfortunately, the NES composite has tremendous dot crawl caused by chroma interference, and looks pretty terrible on most HDTVs. My NES does the same thing when using composite-- for some reason the top portion of the screen is more distorted than the rest.

Its not a problem with the composite input of the plasma-- if you use the same input with a SNES or N64, it will look a lot better-- but still not really acceptable.

Unfortunately your only recourse is to mod, or get someone else to mod, your NES for RGBs or component output. If going the RGBs route, you will then need to transcode to component and feed to your TV.

You really need to do this on all systems from NES to N64 for proper display on HDTVs. Its a bit overwhelming at first, but its fun and totally worth it. Once you mod your NES, it will look like the following pictures on your F4500.
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post #1409 of 1409 Unread Today, 08:02 AM
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Im surprised a Retron unit exhibits the exact same issue as the NES original hardware. I thought it just emulated NES with ARM/Android or something. I guess it must share some similarities with the original hardware in some way.

Dont they make Retron style units with HDMI out?

Displays: Samsung PN51F5300BFXA, PN51F4500AFXA, PN51F4500BFXA

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