Official ZT60 Owners Thread - Page 286 - AVS Forum
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:54 PM
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What about them?
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeKnobber View Post

That's definitely over the top. Professional calibration settings are going to be a very good starting point for 90% of people, especially those who know nothing about calibration or where to start.

I tried the settings from Sammie, D-Nice, CNet, and a few others and was able to get a very good looking picture much easier than I could have trying to start from scratch on mine own.
It is not over the top. Look at the settings on each 3 of those, (cant be bothered to look at d nice) alot of those setting go from -10 to one calibrator to +14 on the next, for the exact same setting. Some are similar, some are way off. Not only that, calibrators do not reccomend using these settings. If you guys think it looks good, great. Explain to me why its going to be a "very good starting point" for anyone? Regardless of user level.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcoupe2003 View Post

I have the opportunity to snag a ZT from a local retailer in my area however I already own the VT50 would it be worth upgrading to ZT or is the difference only incremental.

Do it, 60 or 65"??
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:04 PM
 
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I'd agree with Axxion that it's more akin to throwing darts, blindfolded. wink.gif
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:11 PM
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60
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcoupe2003 View Post

I have the opportunity to snag a ZT from a local retailer in my area however I already own the VT50 would it be worth upgrading to ZT or is the difference only incremental.
Depends on your priorities. Are you happy with your VT? Have you seen a zt? What do you use it for mainly.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:23 PM
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I am very pleased with my VT however would I be more pleased with the ZT i have seen them in stores and they always catch my attention however my room the set would be mounted in is much darker than a store environment which I know changes the picture but I would be watching mostly movies on the set
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcoupe2003 View Post

I am very pleased with my VT however would I be more pleased with the ZT i have seen them in stores and they always catch my attention however my room the set would be mounted in is much darker than a store environment which I know changes the picture but I would be watching mostly movies on the set
Well the zt only gets better in a dark room. I like bias lighting. You should be able to sell off your VT, ad no one can really get plasmas from panny anymore. If you can justify it go for it, especially if you dont plan on using LED anytime soon, (or 4k) and value the zts picture.
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

I went through a very similar situation and what you're describing was exactly my experience. Going direct to the TV solved things but once I went through my Anthem, I had problems. I even sent my Anthem back to Canada for "repair" but it came back clean. I came across this article talking about problems with HDMI connections that go through receivers and switches, got the Dr. HDMI EDID emulator and bingo! Solved. I finally have AV peace and harmony.

In my case, it ended up being my older TV causing the problems. Emulating the EDID of the HDMI connection made all the problems disappear.

I highly, highly recommend Dr. HDMI, which you can get right from HD Fury here.

That could have come in handy with my Panasonic BD35. It didn't play nice enough with my receiver in the middle (was fine if directly connected to tv); if I managed to get it working at 1080p24 at all, it wouldn't stay that way regardless of settings once a different input was used or it was powered off, back to 1080i it went.

Got tired of dealing with it (and it was just a little too stubborn with a (very) few blu-rays at this point, and no more firmware updates in sight), so went with an Oppo to replace it - when you force it to 1080p24 it stays forced, none of this back to Auto setting regardless.

But really, the BD35 was pretty old, just didn't die soon enough on its own.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

The only thing i can think of is your strip is defective. Maybe that single plug has a bad connection. Try a new one. What exactly do you mean it goes out? No power? Any blinking leds on the set? Whats specifically going on

No power, no blinking lamps. Could not turn tv on with remote or tv power button. TV went back on by itself after about a half hour.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:13 AM
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To follow up my post from yesterday, I did get some minor IR from the NBC Olympics logo, but it was no longer visible on white screens by the end of local news 30 minutes later. I know there were a lot of complaints about the logo after the 2012 Summer Olympics, but for me it wasn't bad at all. I did have the set warming up on HBO for a couple of hours before the Olympics, so maybe that warm-up made a difference in sensitivity to image retention.

The expanses of white did show up some pink rash and DSE on the right side of the screen. I was also having trouble getting the set to recognize I had a stick plugged into any of the USB ports, but they work this morning. The ABL was very evident, and it was like watching the downhill events through polarized sunglasses, so I changed the color temperature to Warm 1 and upped the contrast from 60 to 100 in THX Cinema mode, and it was much better. I'll put the settings back to normal after it's over.

463 hours, not calibrated.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:22 AM
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Why do I keep seeing postings about using HBO as a tool for break in, removing IR, etc?
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakRam View Post

Why do I keep seeing postings about using HBO as a tool for break in, removing IR, etc?

It is a channel with full-screen variable content, moving images, and no logos. That is, it is normal content free of any static images that could cause IR if left on. It also has no potential to stress the set the way full screen slides or a pixel flipper might do. Plus, I run into interesting movies I've never watched.
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrygeary View Post

It is a channel with full-screen variable content, moving images, and no logos. That is, it is normal content free of any static images that could cause IR if left on. It also has no potential to stress the set the way full screen slides or a pixel flipper might do. Plus, I run into interesting movies I've never watched.
For those of us that don't have movie channels, what is a good channel to use in place of HBO? I do have some IR (I hope) that I was going to use a pixel flipper on.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by BlakRam View Post

For those of us that don't have movie channels, what is a good channel to use in place of HBO? I do have some IR (I hope) that I was going to use a pixel flipper on.

"...a channel with full-screen variable content, moving images, and no logos."
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:20 AM
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"...a channel with full-screen variable content, moving images, and no logos."

say again? not sure what he didn't get the first time...
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:30 AM
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Will a wireless USB plug in type of keyboard work with the ZT?
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

Lol that was forever ago. I take it your reading the whole thread? Your in houston as well.

Yes and Yes!
On page 232, right now the thread is up to 286!

Loving my 65 inch ZT60! Glad I did not remove the back, or have the fan fix done!

Can't wait to see what the next 50 pages have in store for me!
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakRam View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by larrygeary View Post

It is a channel with full-screen variable content, moving images, and no logos. That is, it is normal content free of any static images that could cause IR if left on. It also has no potential to stress the set the way full screen slides or a pixel flipper might do. Plus, I run into interesting movies I've never watched.
For those of us that don't have movie channels, what is a good channel to use in place of HBO? I do have some IR (I hope) that I was going to use a pixel flipper on.
Do you have a DVD or Blu-ray player? If so, just select a movie with an aspect ratio of 1.78:1 (16\9) and set it to repeat. That will fill your screen with "safe" sources. Pixar movies are popular for that use.
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmalczewski View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

I went through a very similar situation and what you're describing was exactly my experience. Going direct to the TV solved things but once I went through my Anthem, I had problems. I even sent my Anthem back to Canada for "repair" but it came back clean. I came across this article talking about problems with HDMI connections that go through receivers and switches, got the Dr. HDMI EDID emulator and bingo! Solved. I finally have AV peace and harmony.

In my case, it ended up being my older TV causing the problems. Emulating the EDID of the HDMI connection made all the problems disappear.

I highly, highly recommend Dr. HDMI, which you can get right from HD Fury here.

That could have come in handy with my Panasonic BD35. It didn't play nice enough with my receiver in the middle (was fine if directly connected to tv); if I managed to get it working at 1080p24 at all, it wouldn't stay that way regardless of settings once a different input was used or it was powered off, back to 1080i it went.

Got tired of dealing with it (and it was just a little too stubborn with a (very) few blu-rays at this point, and no more firmware updates in sight), so went with an Oppo to replace it - when you force it to 1080p24 it stays forced, none of this back to Auto setting regardless.

But really, the BD35 was pretty old, just didn't die soon enough on its own.
Here is some information that might help.

Handshake HDCP Part I

Handshake HDCP Part II
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

It is not over the top. Explain to me why its going to be a "very good starting point" for anyone? Regardless of user level.

Because 90% of people will have no idea what to use as the starting point for most settings. Should they use Black Level, high or low? Panel brightness High or Medium? Color temperature Warm, Warm2, Normal? CATS on or off? Etc....

Most of those top level settings are identical for all of the calibrations. So its gets the user quite a way towards a decent picture and reasonable settings vs trying to spend days and weeks figuring it out themselves and likely getting it wrong.

So I stand by my point that almost everyone will benefit from using the calibration settings as a starting point. And there is no downside. You try them out, if you don't like it, move on to the next one until you do.
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Old 02-07-2014, 04:59 PM
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Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekarita View Post

Will a wireless USB plug in type of keyboard work with the ZT?
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Here is some information that might help.

Handshake HDCP Part I

Handshake HDCP Part II

No, there was nothing worth bothering with to be done, it was just different hdmi versions not quite working together. Just recycled the BD35 an hour or two ago, it hadn't died yet, but it was a bit flaky with some blu-rays and no longer supported with firmware updates, so after wasting several hours trying to get it to behave itself in my sandbox, it got the axe.

Doesn't seem likely that more recent Panny players would behave any better in my sandbox, given recently related experiences in this thread. May try another brand some day, just as a viable alternative available in case the Oppos can't play something, but it would be used here in the office primarily.

The receiver is Denon 5805mk2, hdmi 1.1 (more or less - it supports 1080p24 and 7.1ch PCM (I use it for 5.1ch PCM, each channel bi-amped)). [Not sure if I've tried the Oppos in Auto mode to see how they would default with the new tv, but as I said they can be forced to 1080p24 (and used with the 96Hz setting on the tv).]
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LeKnobber View Post

Because 90% of people will have no idea what to use as the starting point for most settings. Should they use Black Level, high or low? Panel brightness High or Medium? Color temperature Warm, Warm2, Normal? CATS on or off? Etc....

Most of those top level settings are identical for all of the calibrations. So its gets the user quite a way towards a decent picture and reasonable settings vs trying to spend days and weeks figuring it out themselves and likely getting it wrong.

So I stand by my point that almost everyone will benefit from using the calibration settings as a starting point. And there is no downside. You try them out, if you don't like it, move on to the next one until you do.
Those are all basic settings, people have enough choice in the default picture modes if they cant figure out how to use a calibration disk. Im talking about all the fine tuning options where colors unique to each panel. Ofcourse even the basic settings will be different as well. The best option is for people who dont have a clue is to stick with thx cinema. Your statement is the one over the top, cats is off except in standard mode. Black level is always set to light by default. Contrast is set pretty appropriately in thx modes. Color temperature i think, is mainly kept on warms. Calibration settings among the basics which you mentioned have no value to anyone. Like vinnie said, throwing darts blindfolded. There is a major downside. If you plug in those settings and they calibrated from one of the somewhat common green machines, they will end up with a set that now lacks green. Thats like wearing someone elses eye prescription. Calibrated settings are for that unit, not all. Thats common knowledge. If all the sets gave the same results there would only be ONE calibration done, so all sets could use those settings.
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeKnobber View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Axxion View Post

It is not over the top. Explain to me why its going to be a "very good starting point" for anyone? Regardless of user level.

Because 90% of people will have no idea what to use as the starting point for most settings. Should they use Black Level, high or low? Panel brightness High or Medium? Color temperature Warm, Warm2, Normal? CATS on or off? Etc....

Most of those top level settings are identical for all of the calibrations. So its gets the user quite a way towards a decent picture and reasonable settings vs trying to spend days and weeks figuring it out themselves and likely getting it wrong.

So I stand by my point that almost everyone will benefit from using the calibration settings as a starting point. And there is no downside. You try them out, if you don't like it, move on to the next one until you do.
Makes sense to me. smile.gif
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:22 PM
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Fan fix measurements were made at six feet and at three inches

Pre-fix the room was hovering at 30db six feet from the screen with no TV on.

TV turned on the mic recorded
- 40 db at six feet
- 53 db at three inches

After the fix
TV turned on the mic recorded
- 38 db at six feet
- 50 db at three inches

So not much attenuation rolleyes.gif

This was done with white screen to generate the largest amount of current!

The technician apologized that he could do any better than that unfortunately, the new fans are the same design, he tightened all the boards to ensure no rattling.

Panasonic provided him with a Pro Audio Galaxy Audio CM-150 Check Mate SPL Meter specifically to measure
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmalczewski View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Here is some information that might help.

Handshake HDCP Part I

Handshake HDCP Part II

No, there was nothing worth bothering with to be done, ...
I understood that. The information that I linked to may help anyone using HDMI because the explanations cover the HDMI world we are forced to live in. They aren't new, but they were posted today and I think they are exceptionally well written.
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

Fan fix measurements were made at six feet and at three inches

Pre-fix the room was hovering at 30db six feet from the screen with no TV on.

TV turned on the mic recorded
- 40 db at six feet
- 53 db at three inches

After the fix
TV turned on the mic recorded
- 38 db at six feet
- 50 db at three inches

So not much attenuation rolleyes.gif

This was done with white screen to generate the largest amount of current!

The technician apologized that he could do any better than that unfortunately, the new fans are the same design, he tightened all the boards to ensure no rattling.

Panasonic provided him with a Pro Audio Galaxy Audio CM-150 Check Mate SPL Meter specifically to measure

My fix was supposed to be Wednesday. I'm really considering just living with it.
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I understood that. The information that I linked to may help anyone using HDMI because the explanations cover the HDMI world we are forced to live in. They aren't new, but they were posted today and I think they are exceptionally well written.

Will check them out.
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:40 PM
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Could someone please quickly tell me how to activate the antenna set up feature on my ZT?

Thanks

Edit: Found it
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