Official ZT60 Owners Thread - Page 402 - AVS Forum
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post #12031 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bob brennan View Post
Been there - done that - doesn't work for EU - never were able to find out!! NA models have the month of manufacture on the back of panel
Thanks for the quick reply
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post #12032 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 04:41 PM
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OK, not really specific to the ZT, but don't know where else to ask so please be patient...


We're moving in August. I've had one moving company so far come do an on-site evaluation and give me an estimate. I asked for the estimate to include the cost of crating my 65ZT60 and 65VT30. The price for that, you ask:


$500 per TV! Yes, $375 to crate and $125 to uncrate at destination, per TV. Oh and by "crate", they mean using the original packaging (that I have kept) but filling the gaps between the TV and the walls of the box and reinforcing the box (not sure with what and how).


Anyone else here has shipped a large TV in a "crate" and if so what exactly was the crating process and how much was the cost? Thanks for any input.
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post #12033 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 04:52 PM
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Maybe 7 years ago a friend of mine shipped a 42" plasma from NY to KC. They built a crate specifically for it. I don't remember the exact cost but it wasn't cheap. The issue isn't the moving, it's that there's so much potential for damage.
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post #12034 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 07:05 PM
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Unhappy

Deleted - duplicate post.

Last edited by eaayoung; 06-12-2014 at 07:09 PM.
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post #12035 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myared View Post
Anyone else here has shipped a large TV in a "crate" and if so what exactly was the crating process and how much was the cost? Thanks for any input.
I've had several plasma TV's crated over the years due to moves. On the first and second moves, a specialized company built a wooden crate for each TV. The TV was placed in the crate which was lined by foam. The TV were placed on the moving truck with our contents in an upright position by the moving company. The same company sent people out to uncrate and inspect at the destination.

In our recent move from Florida to Texas, they used what is referred to as an armor pack. An armor pack is similar to crating but uses cardboard instead of wood for the crate material. The foam is cut to fit around and support the TV. The TV is then placed in heavy cardboard boxes that are pieced to together and then strapped close. The packs are then loaded on the moving van with your other contents. In our last move, they created armor packs for the plasma and LCD TV. I moved four TVs and had no problems.

$500 seems high to me. I think I was told the armor packs were around $25 each. But that wouldn't include the cost to pack and then unpack. I would not let them use the hard styrofoam that came with my TV. The foam provides much better protection since it is softer. You may want to shop that price. You could also box and move the TV yourself at that price. Plus you wouldn't have to worry about making a claim with the movers which will likely pay only pay by the pound. Our move was paid by my employer and also carried insurance to reimburse for damage based on the traditional method of replacement cost.

Good luck.

Last edited by eaayoung; 06-12-2014 at 07:19 PM.
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post #12036 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 07:34 PM
 
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I moved my 50" Kuro cross-country in 2011. I merely used the original packaging, and the packers made sure they wedged it upright in the middle of all the furniture snugly. Some blankets were used to surround it in order to soften the effect of vibrations/jolts. The load was secured at the back of the truck with some rope and elastic cables. It arrived perfectly in one piece for no additional cost.
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post #12037 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 07:43 PM
 
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In other news, at over 2k hours, the IR/burn-in visible on the portion of the screen where the Netflix navigation bar and/or captions lie has put my OCD into overdrive. Even if I can't see it from my typical seating distance (without squinting), it's completely unacceptable because I occasionally *do* like to watch more intently closer to the screen. I will be running the TV 24/7 using a combination of break-in slides/pixel flipper either until a) it is cleared or b) something burns out. Chances are Mack will then likely issue me a refund due to the scarcity of parts, which I will then use as a downpayment for a 77" OLED from LG.
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post #12038 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 08:02 PM
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Hi there. New to the fourms.

Just got my hands on a 60inch zt60 and I got a few questions I hope some of you could answer.

How many of you did the "Recommended 100 hour panel prep"?
And did you use D-nice's slides or just watch fullscreen content for the first 100 hours?
Also, did you get your set calibrated by a pro (NO GEEK SQUAD PLEASE) and was it worth it?

Thanks in advance.
-Girdeux
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post #12039 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 08:21 PM
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I did a 300 hour prep (probably overkill...) and used D-Nice's slides. Will professionally calibrate the TV after the move.


Speaking of, thank you to all those who chimed in regarding packaging the TVs for the move. I'll probably use the original packaging and maybe add some foam to surround the TVs inside their boxes. $500 per TV is a little bit too much...
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post #12040 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 08:28 PM
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I mixed slides with full screen content for the first 300 hours. This was just to where the panel was settled down & ready for calibration. Non-16:9 programming & fixed images should be avoided if possible regardless of the age of the panel.

I had my TV calibrated & while Pro mode is an improvement with some content, given the accuracy of the THX modes I wouldn't say there was a lot of value in it. My unit was built in May of '13 though. Based on comments I've seen in the forums, the THX modes in later units displayed a green tint in (Caucasian) skin tones. If you see such a tint then it's probably a good idea to get it calibrated.

Good luck & enjoy.

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post #12041 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 08:37 PM
 
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^I also have a May build, which is afflicted with green skin tones in THX Day mode. I can't say that I've noticed it in regular THX mode, but I've been avoiding that mode for some time due to the fragility of the phosphors.
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post #12042 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 08:53 PM
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I haven't seen the green tint in any mode. Must be a ymmv thing. That or I'm just not perceiving it.
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post #12043 of 13076 Old 06-12-2014, 09:31 PM
 
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Can't miss it on mine! Thank goodness for D-Nice's high panel brightness mode (since I haven't managed to fit a calibration into the budget...looks like my window may sadly be closing on the ZT).
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post #12044 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girdeux View Post
Hi there. New to the fourms.

Just got my hands on a 60inch zt60 and I got a few questions I hope some of you could answer.

How many of you did the "Recommended 100 hour panel prep"?
And did you use D-nice's slides or just watch fullscreen content for the first 100 hours?
Also, did you get your set calibrated by a pro (NO GEEK SQUAD PLEASE) and was it worth it?

Thanks in advance.
-Girdeux

I had the intent of doing it but didn't. I have, however, used Spears and Muncil three times to calibrate. I have panel brightness on medium and contrast has varied between 65%-78% depending on viewing mode right now. I also keep pixel orbiter enabled.

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post #12045 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by myared View Post
Speaking of, thank you to all those who chimed in regarding packaging the TVs for the move. I'll probably use the original packaging and maybe add some foam to surround the TVs inside their boxes. $500 per TV is a little bit too much...
You'll probably be ok. I would ask the driver of the moving van where he would recommend placing the TV. I would think toward the rear would be the safest place. The load will shift toward the front of the van. Make they keep the box upright. Good luck!
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post #12046 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 01:07 PM
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My God what have they done to these forums!
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post #12047 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by eaayoung View Post
You'll probably be ok. I would ask the driver of the moving van where he would recommend placing the TV. I would think toward the rear would be the safest place. The load will shift toward the front of the van. Make they keep the box upright. Good luck!

Will do. Thanks for the great advice.
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Check the AVS home page for all the latest news.
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post #12049 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 06:19 PM
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To all the folks that has issue with fluctuating blacks or flicker in 3D mode, did you block the power led light? I also had the same issue, and had the LED light blocked. I decided to remove it temporarily and to my surprise the issue has ceased, I tested it with Underworld: Awakening, since that movie exhibit the issue the most.

So, you guys can try that remedy and let me know if it fixes the issue.

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post #12050 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 07:58 PM
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Thanks for the input everyone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by myared View Post
I did a 300 hour prep (probably overkill...) and used D-Nice's slides. Will professionally calibrate the TV after the move.

Speaking of, thank you to all those who chimed in regarding packaging the TVs for the move. I'll probably use the original packaging and maybe add some foam to surround the TVs inside their boxes. $500 per TV is a little bit too much...
Nice. I did a 200 hour prep on my g20 back in 2010. Used d-nice's settings but played mostly hbo. It was my only set at the time and just couldn't use the slides... wife... telanovellas (on zoom). Anyway, my set has no burn-in, but IR happens quite easily. Do the slides work better for the prep or does it really matter? I've heard 1.85:1 movies are good too. Any movie or tv suggestions? I really wanna age this thing properly.

Btw, I recently moved and just put my g20 (on the stand) screen to screen with an old dlp of the same size. I put yoga mats and thick quilts between the screens and wrapped it all up in more thick quilts. Had a couch on each side and lots of couch cushions to keep the sets nice and snug so they wouldn't tilt or slide. Drove slow and arrived at our new place with both sets intact and undamaged.

Quote:
Originally Posted by repete66211 View Post
I mixed slides with full screen content for the first 300 hours. This was just to where the panel was settled down & ready for calibration. Non-16:9 programming & fixed images should be avoided if possible regardless of the age of the panel.

I had my TV calibrated & while Pro mode is an improvement with some content, given the accuracy of the THX modes I wouldn't say there was a lot of value in it. My unit was built in May of '13 though. Based on comments I've seen in the forums, the THX modes in later units displayed a green tint in (Caucasian) skin tones. If you see such a tint then it's probably a good idea to get it calibrated.

Good luck & enjoy.
Thanks. What kind of fullscreen content did you play? I would watch hbo, but sadly I don't have it anymore.
And, how much did the calibration cost you? Where I live it's like 400 bucks. Just wondering if I'm being railroaded. Btw, with the g20, the THX mode also had a green tint on caucasion skin tones, but with the help of a friend I was able to adjust it in the service menu. One of the reasons I LOVE pannys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post
I had the intent of doing it but didn't. I have, however, used Spears and Muncil three times to calibrate. I have panel brightness on medium and contrast has varied between 65%-78% depending on viewing mode right now. I also keep pixel orbiter enabled.
Nice. My g20 has those exact settings. Tbh, that set would be perfect if it didn't have floating blacks... and no 3d.
Have you noticed any floating blacks on the zt60? And how's the 3d? I'm so used to passive 3d, I'm wondering if I'll notice a flicker effect with the active shutters. Definitely notice it on samsungs.
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post #12051 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 08:07 PM
 
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Passive 3D is superior, I've found, because there are occasions where you might detect flicker, which could be attributed to the glasses as easily as it could the panel. Passive glasses are just more lightweight and are easier to wear (also, no sync required).

Full-screen PIXAR animations are a favorite source for break-in or IR removal. I ran nothing but slides for the first 300 hours, half-expecting to have a calibration done but couldn't quite fit it in the budget. $400 is not uncommon for a pro cal. I think D-Nice is currently charging $350 making him one of the more high-demand and price-competitive pros at the moment.
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post #12052 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girdeux View Post
Thanks for the input everyone.



Nice. I did a 200 hour prep on my g20 back in 2010. Used d-nice's settings but played mostly hbo. It was my only set at the time and just couldn't use the slides... wife... telanovellas (on zoom). Anyway, my set has no burn-in, but IR happens quite easily. Do the slides work better for the prep or does it really matter? I've heard 1.85:1 movies are good too. Any movie or tv suggestions? I really wanna age this thing properly.

Btw, I recently moved and just put my g20 (on the stand) screen to screen with an old dlp of the same size. I put yoga mats and thick quilts between the screens and wrapped it all up in more thick quilts. Had a couch on each side and lots of couch cushions to keep the sets nice and snug so they wouldn't tilt or slide. Drove slow and arrived at our new place with both sets intact and undamaged.



Thanks. What kind of fullscreen content did you play? I would watch hbo, but sadly I don't have it anymore.
And, how much did the calibration cost you? Where I live it's like 400 bucks. Just wondering if I'm being railroaded. Btw, with the g20, the THX mode also had a green tint on caucasion skin tones, but with the help of a friend I was able to adjust it in the service menu. One of the reasons I LOVE pannys.



Nice. My g20 has those exact settings. Tbh, that set would be perfect if it didn't have floating blacks... and no 3d.
Have you noticed any floating blacks on the zt60? And how's the 3d? I'm so used to passive 3d, I'm wondering if I'll notice a flicker effect with the active shutters. Definitely notice it on samsungs.
@Girdeux I guess I haven't noticed the floating blacks because I have no idea what you're talking about! I don't have the newer Spears and Muncil with 3D calibration. I just use THX mode in 3D. I now no longer have a 3D Bluray after several issues with some settings and my pre-pro. In any event, 3D was just fine and didn't have any issues with it.

Remember, with active, you're getting full HD to each eye as opposed to half full HD with passive. Neither is perfect, but I prefer getting full HD in 3D.

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post #12053 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 08:37 PM
 
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Actually, resolution is decreased in certain instances (color gradations) on the ZT60 as part of Panasonic's drive system (single-scan 3D) as well. The F8500 does the best at maintaining full HD resolution when it comes to 3D. Also, I certainly noticed a greater reduction in the resolution on my passive 3D LG OLED (540p per eye) but still found it more satisfying due to the increased comfort. 4K should mitigate any passive resolution loss in the future (at least from 1080p sources).
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post #12054 of 13076 Old 06-13-2014, 11:44 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by vinnie97 

Quote:Originally Posted by myared 
On the flip side, the IR that happens right after turning on the TV for the first few minutes has become increasingly noticeable. By the time I start my movie though its faded away. Strange things these phosphors.
I'm experiencing the same IR issue. It lingers for 5-10 minutes and eventually disappears.
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post #12055 of 13076 Old 06-14-2014, 12:48 AM
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Passive 3D is superior, I've found, because there are occasions where you might detect flicker, which could be attributed to the glasses as easily as it could the panel. Passive glasses are just more lightweight and are easier to wear (also, no sync required).

Full-screen PIXAR animations are a favorite source for break-in or IR removal. I ran nothing but slides for the first 300 hours, half-expecting to have a calibration done but couldn't quite fit it in the budget. $400 is not uncommon for a pro cal. I think D-Nice is currently charging $350 making him one of the more high-demand and price-competitive pros at the moment.
I agree. My friend's lg 1080p led displays artifacts, ghosting, and screen tearing if you sit too close. It's hard to find that "sweet spot" where you don't notice it. However, the lack of the flicker effect more than makes up for it.
Thanks for the pixar suggestion btw... I have a bunch of pixar films... and a 6 month old daughter. Looks like I'll be "busy" for the next 300 hours.

Quote:
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Actually, resolution is decreased in certain instances (color gradations) on the ZT60 as part of Panasonic's drive system (single-scan 3D) as well. The F8500 does the best at maintaining full HD resolution when it comes to 3D. Also, I certainly noticed a greater reduction in the resolution on my passive 3D LG OLED (540p per eye) but still found it more satisfying due to the increased comfort. 4K should mitigate any passive resolution loss in the future (at least from 1080p sources).
I've yet to experience active 3d on a panny, but one thing I do like about the samsungs I've seen is the level of depth compared to the passive 3d I've seen on lg displays. And unless I'm mistaken, active shutter doesn't darken the picture like passive glasses do and provides a more vibrant picture. I have to adjust the backlight, brightness, and contrast on my passive 3d set to compensate for the darker picture.

And btw passive 3d (1080p) on a 4k display is amazing imo. I picked up an lg ub8500 and I've set to see the problems I've experience on my friend's lg 1080p led. The 4k upscaling makes watching 3d content very enjoyable. The 8500's going back, though... it has very noticable verticle banding, cloudy blacks, and dtv looks terrible on it, while video games and 4k content (netflix, youtube) look amazing.

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@Girdeux I guess I haven't noticed the floating blacks because I have no idea what you're talking about! I don't have the newer Spears and Muncil with 3D calibration. I just use THX mode in 3D. I now no longer have a 3D Bluray after several issues with some settings and my pre-pro. In any event, 3D was just fine and didn't have any issues with it.

Remember, with active, you're getting full HD to each eye as opposed to half full HD with passive. Neither is perfect, but I prefer getting full HD in 3D.
Floating blacks refers to when you're watching a scene that goes from bright to dark and the dark (black) areas of the screen flucuate from black to dark grey or vise versa. It was a problem with the g series pannys. My g20 has this problem and while it's not that bad... it's enough to take you out of the moment when watching a really good film.
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post #12056 of 13076 Old 06-14-2014, 01:15 PM
 
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I just realized a potential cause of my IR woes. If the pixel orbiter is truly efficacious in preventing IR and I obtained aforementioned IR during Neflix, as I just recently discovered, said pixel orbiter option is completely unavailable when that app is loaded. Now I could use Oppo's Netflix app but that is devoid of a screen saver for those moments when one pauses content and steps away from the screen for a few moments. So frustrating.
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post #12057 of 13076 Old 06-14-2014, 01:22 PM
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Pixel orbiter just shifts the entire screen a couple of pixels. It doesn't affect contrast, brightness, etc. so the only IR it prevents is when the fixed image is a couple of pixels wide. Otherwise is just blurs the fixed image. This can make the IR easier on the eyes, being softer, but it doesn't prevent IR from setting in.

I wish the remote had a hard button for the screen wipe for just such instances. I programmed a multi-step macro for my universal remote, but it doesn't always work. It'd be really nice to be able to press a single button to engage the wipe for the times you need to pause your program.

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post #12058 of 13076 Old 06-14-2014, 01:29 PM
 
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I realize the mechanism behind it, but I've also seen some reports (perhaps where it has been made less noticeable like you postulated, particularly true when sitting further from the screen, and/or placebo) where it has been found efficacious in helping to prevent IR of all shapes and sizes.
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post #12059 of 13076 Old 06-14-2014, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
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... Now I could use Oppo's Netflix app but that is devoid of a screen saver for those moments when one pauses content and steps away from the screen for a few moments. So frustrating.


Holy phosphors Batman! You must have a sensitive screen! Sorry man.


My kids sometimes pause Netflix and walk away for extended periods of time. If they're not back in 15 minutes or so (and I happen to notice) then I do the screen wipe thing. With (my) kids it's just not practical to worry about a few moments static image. I'ld drive myself and everyone else crazy.


On the plus side of having kids, my 9 year old son often watches full screen cartoons which gets rid of the IR I cause from late night xbox sessions.


I worry MUCH more about a wii-mote through the screen than I do IR. I have strict rules about wrist straps. Trust but verify.

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post #12060 of 13076 Old 06-14-2014, 05:26 PM
 
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Keep in mind I have OCD tendencies here (just a little more mild than our dearly departed Self Made). I doubt I'd have a plasma with kiddies running around....probably would have the cheapest LCD I could find.
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Reply Plasma Flat Panel Displays

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Panasonic Viera Tc P65zt60 65 Inch Plasma Hdtv , Panasonic Viera Tc P60zt60 60 Inch Plasma Tv
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