Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 172 - AVS Forum
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post #5131 of 9738 Old 03-25-2014, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by clawwolf View Post

Thanks so much WVZR1, appreciate the help! I was a little worried, I thought I read somewhere that the pedestal should be fully supported , but just wanted to make sure it was ok temporarily. Very excited, thanks again man for the input and advice! Will do!
Its good to be worried and ask, I have had people damage there units on the first day frown.gif Accidents happen everyday........
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post #5132 of 9738 Old 03-25-2014, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 9179mhb View Post


You might consider setting the Energy Saving Mode to Low or Medium during the break-in period. This will allow the panel to run cooler than if using just default picture settings.

You can check the panel temp with the IR remote and this key sequence: Mute-7-3-7-Enter.

I was never a BIG fan of treating a new PDP like a toaster by continuously running those break-in slides for 100s & 100s of hours.

If you watch TV w/logos & crawling text evident on the screen try to balance that out with some full screen content such as a movie on Cinemax.


I used a very similar method with excellent results. Well written and good advice!

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post #5133 of 9738 Old 03-25-2014, 10:13 PM
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I've been playing around with the Smart Touch Control remote. I love this gadget!

For those that haven't bought the TV yet, the 8500 comes with 2 remotes: traditional one and an STC
Remote that's a bit narrower in size, but about the same length as an iPhone 4. It serves me as a Universal Remote
For the TV and the FiOS DVR/Cable Box. I'm pleasantly surprised at all the functionality
it has for my 2 most used components. It has a touch pad where one may write commands
Using finger tips. Also, voice commands may be used as well. Additional commands may be added to the
"Virtual Remote"- which has 3 displays on the TV- WOW! I'm enjoying learning more about this TV.

I'm using Wxman's settings and my TV has never looked or functioned better! smile.gif
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Samsung PN64F8500 Smart TV (64" Plasma-2013); LG BD 390 Blu-ray Player; Denon AVR-1709; Nakamichi MB CD Player; Verizon FiOS Motorola 7 Series Cable Box (500GB Hard Drive).  Pioneer Elite 1120 (5th Generation Plasma- 2005); Denon AVR 2800 (2000); Oppo Blu-ray 103 w/Roku Stick; Sony Carousal CD;...
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post #5134 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by WVZR1 View Post

In this post there are two snapshots of the base. You can see the two light gray pads from the factory on the extreme ends and the six strips that are supplied in the accessory package. You only need to place two on each end just inboard of the outermost gray ones. You'll have no issues.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475066/official-samsung-pnxxf8500-owners-thread-no-street-price-talk/4860#post_24492646


Right on, thanks! You rock! That link has some great info on transporting the tv as well, thanks a bunch. REALLY appreciate the help and link. Thank you, thank you! Glad I didn't hold off them delivering the tv until I got the stand and I can start playing with the new toy and breaking it in.
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post #5135 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post

Its good to be worried and ask, I have had people damage there units on the first day frown.gif Accidents happen everyday........

Oh damn really?? Wow, that sucks frown.gif How exactly? Falling? Thanks for reply, yeah these things are expensive!
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post #5136 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by vdr13 View Post

Hey everyone,

Sorry if this issue has been beaten to death, but I'm a new member to the forum and haven't been able to find a great answer after hours of sifting through posts.

I'm anxiously waiting for my 51f8500 to arrive later this week and just wanted to see if anyone had any advice or experience with panel break in slides.

I've seen a bunch of posts so far regarding non-slide break ins but nothing really regarding slide usage. I previously had a panasonic st50 so there was an abundance of D-Nice slide protocol and info. Now that I'm moving into samsung territory I haven't been able to find as much information.

To those of you that have done slide break ins, which slides did you use? Did you opt for the D-nice 2013 panasonic slides, or the evangelo2 slides, or others that I'm not aware of? Did you just run the tv on movie, 50 contrast, 50 brightness?

Sorry again if this topic keeps coming up, I just haven't been able to find some nice guidelines like the one D-nice puts up for his panasonic panel preps.

Thanks, and I really appreciate your help!

The main purpose for the slides was if you intended to utilize D-Nice's posted settings, it would bring your panel close to the same starting point/state as D-Nices at the point in which he performed his calibration.

But there has always been panel variances, so even still, copying his settings were not intended to replace an actual calibration.

The slides help speed up the break-in period, and break-in the phosphers more evenly, but are not really necessary.
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post #5137 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 06:58 AM
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No worries...I am glad I was of some help.

 

The three Mack Warranty codes are: 1276-for the 2 year extended, 1085-for the 3 year and 1407-for the 4 year.  If you do some homework and punch in these numbers you can find some pretty good pricing for these extended warranties.  All companies offer the same exact product, so it might be best to find a sponsored company on AVS and let them earn the business if they are competitively priced imho.

 

Lastly, it was recommended to me to get the (Mack 1085 3-year warranty) because it is essentially a 51-month warranty (if you registered your TV through Samsung and got the 3-extra months) and it is priced the best out of the 3 they offer.

 

HTH........

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post #5138 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by tegee26 View Post

No worries...I am glad I was of some help.

The three Mack Warranty codes are: 1276-for the 2 year extended, 1085-for the 3 year and 1407-for the 4 year.  If you do some homework and punch in these numbers you can find some pretty good pricing for these extended warranties.  All companies offer the same exact product, so it might be best to find a sponsored company on AVS and let them earn the business if they are competitively priced imho.

Lastly, it was recommended to me to get the (Mack 1085 3-year warranty) because it is essentially a 51-month warranty (if you registered your TV through Samsung and got the 3-extra months) and it is priced the best out of the 3 they offer.

HTH........

thanks - i'm waiting for info from mack. their site says must have 3 months remaining on current warranty. my samsung portal doesn't show the extra 3 months and live chat said it won't appear till year is up, which date-wise may put me in jeopardy of getting warranty from mack. i asked if there was some documentation and of course chat agent said no! thanks again for your help and the recommendations above.

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post #5139 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 08:14 AM
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Wow. I actually cringed a bit when I read Auto Glass cleaner, imagining those paste glass polishes that leave a ton of dusty residue after they dry lol. I hope you used something that is at least window-tint safe (no ammonia).
Everyone keeps saying how sensitive these Anti-Reflective coatings are, how easy it is to scratch the screen etc. If your screen survived auto glass cleaner, then maybe all the little hairline scratches that everyone sees when they shine a flashlight at the screen could be simply "factory installed" and are not user fault at all smile.gif

It would be interesting to know whether the AR coating got damaged. Did you use a microfibre cloth?


Well, Good news is the cleaning solution I have used is Amonia Free and I could not find any Scratches (using LED flash light) on the screen yet and AR coating is still intact. how can I tell, Just touch the screen with your fingers and you will notice your finger prints on your screen right way, which can't be removed easily, Same theory applied to your eye glasses which comes with AR coating.

 

Ofcourse I will goto local electronic store and will find a better Cleaning solution instead of using Auto Glass cleaner.

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^ distilled water is a great 'solution'.

/ li'l joke there
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post #5141 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 02:53 PM
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50 foot is a long run so I would call MONOPRICE and see what they say. They will have answers for you like using 2 25 footers with an amp or using Redmere cables.

 

Just got a 30ft Redmere cable and it is not working at all, but it works with my 50ft non Redmere cable, I don't know what to say anymore...

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post #5142 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 03:40 PM
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Just got a 30ft Redmere cable and it is not working at all, but it works with my 50ft non Redmere cable, I don't know what to say anymore...
Well we know it's in the Cable that's for sure. Did you check to make sure the Redmere cable is proper direction. As you most likely know, it has a source end (from) and a display end(to) and will not work if you get it backwards.
Could be a Bad Cable it happens.

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post #5143 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 03:46 PM
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Well we know it's in the Cable that's for sure. Did you check to make sure the Redmere cable is proper direction. As you most likely know, it has a source end and a display end and will not work if you get it backwards.


Yes, I'm really careful when it comes to details, now I just did another test, I hooked the cable to my computer and it works with the TV, I don't understand why it doesn't work with my receiver, I have an Onkyo TX-SR806 and never had problems with shorter cables...but my setup requires a longer cable now...and the Redmere one was the perfect length.

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post #5144 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 03:48 PM
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Yes, I'm really careful when it comes to details, now I just did another test, I hooked the cable to my computer and it works with the TV, I don't understand why it doesn't work with my receiver, I have an Onkyo TX-SR806 and never had problems with shorter cables...but my setup requires a longer cable now...and the Redmere one was the perfect length.
I have had better luck with longer cables working correctly than short ones. Hmmmmmm This is a funny one.

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post #5145 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gabete View Post
 

 

Just got a 30ft Redmere cable and it is not working at all, but it works with my 50ft non Redmere cable, I don't know what to say anymore...

Was this recommended by MONOPRICE? If so I would call them and ask what the problem is. Somehow they are not syncing every time.

 

I would also like to thank Glenee for his advice.

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post #5146 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 04:01 PM
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Was this recommended by MONOPRICE? If so I would call them and ask what the problem is. Somehow they are not syncing every time.

 

I would also like to thank Glenee for his advice.


Did you power all devices off and disconnect the AC, then install the Redmere, then apply power and turn the devices on to SYNC the new cable?

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post #5147 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 04:02 PM
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Was this recommended by MONOPRICE? If so I would call them and ask what the problem is. Somehow they are not syncing every time.

 

I would also like to thank Glenee for his advice.


I couldn't find a phone number for Monoprice, just emailed them, but probably it will be some time till the reply. Now I did one more test, I run the 30ft Redmere cable from my computer to the receiver and the 50ft mediabridge cable from the receiver to the tv and everything works, I wonder if it will mess up my HDMI signal settings again and have to call Samsung technician to reset them for the 3rd time...

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post #5148 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 04:46 PM
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I used a very similar method with excellent results. Well written and good advice!

Thank you for your kind response. I have experienced positive results using the break-in method as described. We spend what is IMO a significant amount of money to acquire these high-end displays and I hope others can obtain the same result as me. wink.gif

All one has to do is place their hand on the back upper left hand or right hand corner of their display when its on to feel the difference in heat being generated by the panel with or w/o the Energy Saving option enabled.

Excessive heat is very bad for electronic equipment.
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post #5149 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 05:31 PM
 
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Hello,

I'm having a big issue with my unit, I've hooked up my Onkyo receiver to a 50ft mediabridge hdmi cable and everything was fine the first day.
Second day, I've turned on everything and surprise: no signal to any hdmi ports, i've tried all of them, so I called Samsung and they've sent me a technician who did something with the manufacturer remote control (something like resetting hdmi ports) and everything came back to normal, until today when I have same issue (I never had problems with my old Sony plasma running the same setup) so to me this is inacceptable.

Anyone had same problem?
I've just called technician and he said he will replace main board, I'm also gonna try to run a 35ft hdmi cable from my receiver instead of the 50ft I currently have, because when I had receiver connected to a shorter cable I never had this problem, but my receiver is located about 28 ft away from tv right now...and I don't wanna put it back by the tv because it will look ugly.

What happens if you bypass the Onkyo and go direct with either the 30 or 50ft cable from source to TV (if possible)?
You may have a ground loop or some other futzy thing going on...
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post #5150 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 06:22 PM
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post #5151 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 07:38 PM
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A tantalizing tidbit, but!

http://www.soundandvision.com/content/pioneer-once-again-tv-maker

If there is a company that can could make a great FALD LED tv, it would be Pioneer. I hope they are successful.
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post #5152 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 07:56 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KONICA TECH View Post


I used a very similar method with excellent results. Well written and good advice!

Thank you for your kind response. I have experienced positive results using the break-in method as described. We spend what is IMO a significant amount of money to acquire these high-end displays and I hope others can obtain the same result as me. wink.gif

All one has to do is place their hand on the back upper left hand or right hand corner of their display when its on to feel the difference in heat being generated by the panel with or w/o the Energy Saving option enabled.

Excessive heat is very bad for electronic equipment.

That's not the panel per se but the brains driving it. They place the really hot parts at the top of the boards like those big CAPs you can see through the vent holes.
Like a dimmable light, the panel itself will only get as hot relative to the light output you ask it to produce.

Putting your hand over one of the circuit boards highest points which is a part that is designed to get hot to dissipate the heat whilst drawing cool air from below and thinking its too hot makes no sense.
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post #5153 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 08:27 PM
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That's not the panel per se but the brains driving it. They place the really hot parts at the top of the boards like those big CAPs you can see through the vent holes.
Like a dimmable light, the panel itself will only get as hot relative to the light output you ask it to produce.

Putting your hand over one of the circuit boards highest points which is a part that is designed to get hot to dissipate the heat whilst drawing cool air from below and thinking its too hot makes no sense.


Everyone can have their own opinion. I do not agree with you and I am not going through my background of electronics for 50 years to explain why.

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So that's why every TV they make breaks due to overheating. Sorry my bad.
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post #5155 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 09:06 PM
 
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Good grief. I mean God forbid your fanless AVR getting warm at the top too. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night.
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post #5156 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 09:28 PM
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Good grief. I mean God forbid your fanless AVR getting warm at the top too. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night.


Maybe you need a fan:D 

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Good grief. I mean God forbid your fanless AVR getting warm at the top too. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night.

AVRs have much more screening area, spread over a greater area, made of metal, and as long as you don't enclose them, they will get lots of air. The F8500 is made from Plastic, has less ventilation air flow through, and less conductivity for heat dissipation. If one wants to side on the side of caution, spending $20 for a fan to help with the dissipation, so much the better. Especially important with Summer coming on, and some people's TV areas will have their TVs already sucking heated room air!
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post #5158 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 10:25 PM
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How dare you suggest a fan on the f8500. After all the insults to Panasonic fans. wink.gif
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post #5159 of 9738 Old 03-26-2014, 10:52 PM
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WOW! did this ever go off topic.....

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post #5160 of 9738 Old 03-27-2014, 11:23 AM
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How dare you suggest a fan on the f8500. After all the insults to Panasonic fans. wink.gif

The fans we use are quiet, speed adjustable, and drop the hot spot temp from 94+ degrees down to the low 80's. Remember, this is the Long Extended Winter, with cooler room temperatures. Summer, when and if it arrives this year, will have some peoples' room temperatures soaring. This means that the air flow will have to increase over the components!
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