Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 223 - AVS Forum
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdogg93 View Post
krisb01,

the DSE effect on mine, is more of a vertical issue. I suppose you could say they're big asymmetrically bordered dirty columns. The first non-elite I bought also had this and I had to return it because I couldn't NOT see it.

I had that on the left side of my first 64F8500. Exchanged it because, like you say, I could not not see it.
The replacement set is much better. Haven't been able to notice any DSE effect. Though I am seeing faint reddish vertical bands on a white background. Perhaps a calibration can help to back them even more faint?
In any case the replacement set is overall much better.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by KONICA TECH View Post
After my set is on for 6 hours, I checked the other side and it is warm....better get another fan, do I also need a USB splitter for dual fans?
There are 3 USB ports on the back, not sure how many you use. I don't really use the TV USB ports except for break in slides on a flash drive.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahab View Post
I had that on the left side of my first 64F8500. Exchanged it because, like you say, I could not not see it.
The replacement set is much better. Haven't been able to notice any DSE effect. Though I am seeing faint reddish vertical bands on a white background. Perhaps a calibration can help to back them even more faint?
In any case the replacement set is overall much better.
Hahhaha the panel lottery! I hate having to replace such a large tv, it's such a pain. There's only one left in stock where I'm at so I should probably get it ordered. Hmmm I'm not sure if I'm willing to exchange it for possibly a worse one.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lodrin View Post
There are 3 USB ports on the back, not sure how many you use. I don't really use the TV USB ports except for break in slides on a flash drive.

If you read the ratings for the fan and the ratings for the USB slots, there is really only one slot for one fan.
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:30 PM
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I'd advise against using the usb ports on the display to power your fans. Do you really think these usb ports were designed to power devices for the entire time the display is on?

There are separate power supplies suitable for powering the fans. Some even have a built in thermostat. Get one of those.

Samsung 64F8500, Panasonic 65VT50, Oppo 95, Tivo Roamio for OTA, Dish VIP722, Marantz AV8801 preamp, Rotel Amps, Atlantic Tech 8200 speakers, Seaton Submersive HP, Calman 5, Chromapure, Accupel DVG-5000, VideoForge HDMI II, i1Display3pro, i1pro2, eecolor colorbox.
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
Sure would have been something to see at 80 to 85fl! Best my calibrated F8500 can hit is around 50fl with a cell light at 20. This was movie mode. Dynamic and Standard mode will be brighter, but color accuracy is pretty bad and blacks are crushed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by newfmp3 View Post
Having owned and still own several Panny's, my 8500 is insanely bright for a plasma. Not sure where you are hearing this but it sounds like more internet nonsense to me or maybe isolated cases.
Read ^
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:41 PM
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Kuros and the F8500

Why, oh why, oh why do people insist in comparing a Kuro with probably a few 1000 hours on it, with the F8500, with relatively few hours on it? (Like some, right out of the box!) As has been mentioned many times in this thread, PQ increases steadily up and past 1000 hours. Now make a comparison, even though there's still probably a few 1000 hours difference in usage! From a calibration point of view, Black was about a 1/2" out of the Center Box. Now as it approaches 1000 hours, Black has now entered the Center Box. I assume by 1500 hours, it will be dead Center in the Center Box.
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Why, oh why, oh why do people insist in comparing a Kuro with probably a few 1000 hours on it, with the F8500, with relatively few hours on it? (Like some, right out of the box!) As has been mentioned many times in this thread, PQ increases steadily up and past 1000 hours. Now make a comparison, even though there's still probably a few 1000 hours difference in usage! From a calibration point of view, Black was about a 1/2" out of the Center Box. Now as it approaches 1000 hours, Black has now entered the Center Box. I assume by 1500 hours, it will be dead Center in the Center Box.
I agree with you. I'm aware of how unfair it would be to compare the PQ at this stage. I'm not comparing the PQ per say, but the quality of the screen. Mine has too much DSE too ignore, I just wanted to see whether there were other people who had similar issues.

It helps with my decision to exchange it
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdogg93 View Post
I agree with you. I'm aware of how unfair it would be to compare the PQ at this stage. I'm not comparing the PQ per say, but the quality of the screen. Mine has too much DSE too ignore, I just wanted to see whether there were other people who had similar issues.

It helps with my decision to exchange it
DSE never gets better. I rarely see it on my tv. So if yours is pretty bad, I would not wait to exchange it.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisherbert View Post
You've read that where? I recently got an f8500 and it is very bright.
I think you have not updated to the new firmware. I think you better stay that way if you want to keep the brightness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post
I believe Chad B said with an earlier set he was able to calibrate at 85fl. Then with later tv's the max was in the 40's. My best guess is Samsung probably realized that making the tv that bright either made the energy estimates invalid, or violated some states, and countries energy standards, or it caused the tv to run way too hot, resulting in a high failure rate. I would bet in a year or two, someone will figure out a way to defeat that FW change.
Yeah I think it's because the tv is running so hot. But why are they doing this on a firmware update ? A lot of us baby our tvs and do everything to keep it cool so the update makes our tvs less brighter which is not fair.

Quote:
Originally Posted by newfmp3 View Post
Having owned and still own several Panny's, my 8500 is insanely bright for a plasma. Not sure where you are hearing this but it sounds like more internet nonsense to me or maybe isolated cases.
I think you have not done the new firmware update yet. My advise would be not to do it until Samsung reverts back with a firmware to include the original brightness.
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Old 07-22-2014, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by stanjohn123 View Post
I think you have not updated to the new firmware. I think you better stay that way if you want to keep the brightness.


Yeah I think it's because the tv is running so hot. But why are they doing this on a firmware update ? A lot of us baby our tvs and do everything to keep it cool so the update makes our tvs less brighter which is not fair.



I think you have not done the new firmware update yet. My advise would be not to do it until Samsung reverts back with a firmware to include the original brightness.
This is maddening. I've been waiting for over a year to finally be in a position to purchase a PN64F8500, and now, when I'm about to pull the trigger on one, I read statements like this. Can anyone (especially an industry professional) confirm definitively which firmware number (if any) dials back the brightness on this TV? Also, if this really is true, what are the chances of getting a new TV so late in the product's life cycle that won't automatically come with the most recent firmware? If I know approximately when this "problematic" firmware update was issued, I can at least try to seek out a TV that has a build date prior to its release, since I know Samsung has made it all but impossible to roll back to previous firmwares now.

I'm coming off years of LCD retina-burning brightness (I know...I know!) and the F8500 is the first plasma I've seen that gives me the pop I'm used to along with the deep, dark, detailed blacks and super wide viewing angle I crave. Lastly, if Samsung really did dial back the overall brightness on this TV via firmware, how does that NOT negatively affect 3D performance? I have invested heavily in my 3D Blu-ray library, and a big part of the F8500's allure for me is that it is (or was) a stellar 3D performer with bright, razor-sharp output and barely perceptible cross-talk.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:04 AM
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I have the latest firmware 1118(European model) and a didn't notice any brightness drop with firmware updates.

In fact i did a calibration recently and i managed to get 38Ftl with cell at 14 and 52 Ftl with cell at 20, all in movie mode, i think this are the numbers reviwers where getting in the early days of the F8500.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitchman View Post
This is maddening. I've been waiting for over a year to finally be in a position to purchase a PN64F8500, and now, when I'm about to pull the trigger on one, I read statements like this. Can anyone (especially an industry professional) confirm definitively which firmware number (if any) dials back the brightness on this TV? Also, if this really is true, what are the chances of getting a new TV so late in the product's life cycle that won't automatically come with the most recent firmware? If I know approximately when this "problematic" firmware update was issued, I can at least try to seek out a TV that has a build date prior to its release, since I know Samsung has made it all but impossible to roll back to previous firmwares now.

I'm coming off years of LCD retina-burning brightness (I know...I know!) and the F8500 is the first plasma I've seen that gives me the pop I'm used to along with the deep, dark, detailed blacks and super wide viewing angle I crave. Lastly, if Samsung really did dial back the overall brightness on this TV via firmware, how does that NOT negatively affect 3D performance? I have invested heavily in my 3D Blu-ray library, and a big part of the F8500's allure for me is that it is (or was) a stellar 3D performer with bright, razor-sharp output and barely perceptible cross-talk.
Also about to pull the trigger on this TV until i saw this thing about brightness being reduced via firmware. Since this would really hurt bright-room performance (which is important to me) I'd also really love to know if any professional out there could clarify this point.
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Why, oh why, oh why do people insist in comparing a Kuro with probably a few 1000 hours on it, with the F8500, with relatively few hours on it? (Like some, right out of the box!) As has been mentioned many times in this thread, PQ increases steadily up and past 1000 hours. Now make a comparison, even though there's still probably a few 1000 hours difference in usage! From a calibration point of view, Black was about a 1/2" out of the Center Box. Now as it approaches 1000 hours, Black has now entered the Center Box. I assume by 1500 hours, it will be dead Center in the Center Box.
Well, it's a little hard to get 1000 hours on the TV within the time frame of the return / exchange policy so you can determine if it's a keeper or not.
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by KONICA TECH View Post
If you read the ratings for the fan and the ratings for the USB slots, there is really only one slot for one fan.
Hmm, the original USB 2.0 standard is 5v .5A. USB ports 2 and 3 are 5v .5A. USB port 1 is 5v 1A. The fan specs are

P/N AF0007 Fan Dimension 120 x 120 x 25mm Started Voltage ≦4V Rated Voltage 5V Rated Current Max. 0.3A Power Input Max. 3.6W Fan Speed 800~1500rpm±250rpm Max. Air Flow 66.55CFM Max. Air Pressure 1.42mmH2O Noise 19bB(A) ~33.5dB(A) Bearing Type Sleeve Life Expectation 50,000hrs,25℃ Connector USB Extension Cable Length 167cm Weight 267g

Last edited by Lodrin; 07-22-2014 at 09:55 AM. Reason: linked 80mm
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:57 AM
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What do you see when you press MUTE 7 3 7

Can someone take a pic?
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:45 AM
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Question IR or normal issue?

I have a one week old 60 inch F8500 - first plasma, love it so far. I appreciate all the feedback provided by members on this forum that helped guide me to this purchase.

Watched "Dark Knight Rises" last night and saw a lot of image retention (or is it ghosting?) during the dark parts of the movie. For example, when a dark scene transitioned to another scene the dark portions from the previous scene would stick around for a few seconds overlaid on top of the new scene. After a few seconds it would fade. It looked strange and distracting.

Question: Is this normal? Will it get better as the TV accumulates more hours?
Appreciate any replies. Thanks, Chris

My setup:
  • 54 hours of mostly full screen content from Netflix.
  • Not calibrated
  • Contrast 95
  • Cell light 14
  • Black Tone: Off
  • Dynamic Contrast: Off
  • Color Space: Auto
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:53 AM
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How do you have the digital clean view and MPEG noise reduction set?
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:04 AM
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I'll check and post when I get back home. I'm assuming both should be set to off, correct?
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgrindst View Post
I have a one week old 60 inch F8500 - first plasma, love it so far. I appreciate all the feedback provided by members on this forum that helped guide me to this purchase.

Watched "Dark Knight Rises" last night and saw a lot of image retention (or is it ghosting?) during the dark parts of the movie. For example, when a dark scene transitioned to another scene the dark portions from the previous scene would stick around for a few seconds overlaid on top of the new scene. After a few seconds it would fade. It looked strange and distracting.

Question: Is this normal? Will it get better as the TV accumulates more hours?
Appreciate any replies. Thanks, Chris

My setup:
  • 54 hours of mostly full screen content from Netflix.
  • Not calibrated
  • Contrast 95
  • Cell light 14
  • Black Tone: Off
  • Dynamic Contrast: Off
  • Color Space: Auto
Initial IR is not unusual. it gets better with time as the phosphors age. I still get it if I watch baseball with the static scoreboard. I can see IR on a dark screen. No where near as obvious when it was new. I now have 1400 hours on the tv, and it looks great.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitchman View Post
This is maddening. I've been waiting for over a year to finally be in a position to purchase a PN64F8500, and now, when I'm about to pull the trigger on one, I read statements like this. Can anyone (especially an industry professional) confirm definitively which firmware number (if any) dials back the brightness on this TV? Also, if this really is true, what are the chances of getting a new TV so late in the product's life cycle that won't automatically come with the most recent firmware? If I know approximately when this "problematic" firmware update was issued, I can at least try to seek out a TV that has a build date prior to its release, since I know Samsung has made it all but impossible to roll back to previous firmwares now.

I'm coming off years of LCD retina-burning brightness (I know...I know!) and the F8500 is the first plasma I've seen that gives me the pop I'm used to along with the deep, dark, detailed blacks and super wide viewing angle I crave. Lastly, if Samsung really did dial back the overall brightness on this TV via firmware, how does that NOT negatively affect 3D performance? I have invested heavily in my 3D Blu-ray library, and a big part of the F8500's allure for me is that it is (or was) a stellar 3D performer with bright, razor-sharp output and barely perceptible cross-talk.
Even if there's validity to reports the latest firmware update dials back the brightness it's not like 52 fL is dim. Also, it's probably unlikely Samsung will incorporate this change from production.

We should know for sure if there's any truth to this issue next month, the F8500 is one of the participants of the 2014 HDTV shootout.

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Old 07-22-2014, 12:53 PM
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How is this panel for games? I am mostly a gamer/sports watcher.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venus933 View Post
Even if there's validity to reports the latest firmware update dials back the brightness it's not like 52 fL is dim. Also, it's probably unlikely Samsung will incorporate this change from production.

We should know for sure if there's any truth to this issue next month, the F8500 is one of the participants of the 2014 HDTV shootout.
Will eagerly await for the hdtv shootout. Even if Samsung have introduced a FW to tone down the brightness they should have an option for the rest of us to turn it back on too. We know how to keep our tvs cool. I hope Samsung is reading this.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:15 PM
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Honestly, I can't imagine wanting the panel to be brighter.


We usually run the 64F8500 (latest firmware) in Movie mode, with contrast set to 94 and cell light set to about 17. In a bright room, with two large south-facing windows, a large east-facing window, and a west-facing French door (which admittedly exits to a roofed screen porch).


We have no issues with the brightness of this panel on a sunny Saturday afternoon.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lodrin View Post
Rated Voltage 5V Rated Current Max. 0.3A Power Input Max. 3.6W

It's been years and years since I last did any engineering math, so I might be pulling a Homer Simpson "Doh" moment here, but something seems off about those numbers.


W = V*A. A = W/V.


So, I would read those numbers as either Power Input Max 1.5W; or else Current Max = .72A.


The later would be very, very bad for two fans running on one TV.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:44 PM
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Specs on the back of the box:

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowspawn View Post
It's been years and years since I last did any engineering math, so I might be pulling a Homer Simpson "Doh" moment here, but something seems off about those numbers.


W = V*A. A = W/V.


So, I would read those numbers as either Power Input Max 1.5W; or else Current Max = .72A.


The later would be very, very bad for two fans running on one TV.
Starting Voltage: 4V < or _
Rated Voltage: 5V
Power Input: Max. 3.6W
Rated Current: Max. 0.3A
Fan Speed: 800~1500rpm +/- 250rpm
Max.Air Flow: 66.55CFM
Max. Air Pressure: 1.42mmH2O
Noise Level: 19dB(A) ~ 33.5dB(A)
Life Expectancy: 30,000hrs, 25C

Now, if like others, you only run these fans about midpoint (where noise is not audible), then I assume you'll be more than able to use the fan plugged into the 0.5A USB Port, with the Primary Upper Left Fan plugged into the 1.0A USB Port. The Upper Right Hand Fan can be run at a lower RPM due to there is not anywhere as much heat on the Right Side.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:56 PM
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Hello

Just bought the 60"! Love it! How do I access cal-day mode? Also I like my tv very bright. Are there any calibration I can use that is very bright? By the way I love this discussion! Read the comments everyday!
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:59 PM
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How is this panel for games and sports? I am in the market for a new TV and I was curious as these are the two things I care most about (Don't tell the wife)
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
How do you have the digital clean view and MPEG noise reduction set?
OK, I checked. Both were set to Auto. I changed both to Off.
Tried again and I still see the same problem with lingering black frames.
I don't have another bluray player to try - this is from a PS3 if it matters. I tried to take a photo, but it's tough to get the camera to focus on the screen fast enough to capture it.

Any other ideas or do I just need to give it more time?
I just want to make sure that if it's a problem I address it during the return window. Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:04 PM
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I haven't noticed anything of the sort on my 64" F8500, which is only a few weeks old, but I put ~250 hours on my TV with "slides" (really my color changing videos) prior to watching content. Frankly, I've actually been quite surprised by the complete lack of IR vs. what I was expecting going into this.

What's it do if you turn off black optimizer?
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