Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 239 - AVS Forum
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post #7141 of 7155 Old 08-18-2014, 08:51 PM
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16months, and about 1600 hrs of trouble free use here.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #7142 of 7155 Old 08-18-2014, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
I guess your searching skills have failed you

Mute 7-3-7 the MRT value is the hours.


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Ok Ok, you've got me, I was just being lazy!

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Originally Posted by HLdan View Post
Plus ENTER. (Mute 7-3-7-ENTER (or return key in the middle of the standard remote).

Many forums say Mute 7-3-7 and I kept pulling my hair out because it wouldn't work.
Thanks for the help, guys! i am picking up an "open box" F8500 and i want to check the hrs to make sure it wasn't used as a floor model!
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post #7143 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 07:22 AM
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I got this set a few weeks ago and have since logged about 250 hours on it (150 with break-in slides and the rest viewing full 16:9 content without static logos or anything. At the 200 hour mark, I used Disney WOW to calibrate the set. At this point, I felt it should be okay to watch some 4:3 content so I watched maybe 4 hours of 4:3 content (not all at once. Maybe an hour at a time with 16:9 content in between) and now when the screen is a solid color, I see a ghost image of the 4:3 bar on the left side of the screen. I ran the pixel flipper from the WOW disc for a few hours last night but its still there. I didn't want to run it overnight incase something were to happen and it got stuck at a static screen. When I left for work though, I set the built in scrolling bars to run and told my roommate to keep an eye on it since she isn't working today so I am hoping that helps. Should I wait longer before watching anything with black bars? I figured 200 hours would have been long enough of a break in to avoid IR from content with black bars or logos.
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post #7144 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post
to add to this, I've had mine since 1007 or something like that, and I've never noticed a change brightness...
Judging by your posts and how you view your tv I don't think you would notice it being not as bright. With your cell light low I bet you haven't reached the cutoff point of where that changed.


On a side note I was disappointed that dnice has said a year later with all the firmware updates black level has increased in order to reduce floating blacks and brightness pops. From .0017 to .0041
Brightness reduce too but most won't care about that as much.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-flat-panels-general-oled-technology/1650169-2014-value-electronics-flat-panel-shootout-results-2.html#post26685521

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post #7145 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
Doug Blackburn, many posts back mentioned , in talking with Samsung, to leave Cell on 20 and use Contrast for your Brightness.

My Professional Calibrator also told me, for a bunch of non-understandable reasons, that these are best left set at 20.
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post #7146 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason626 View Post
On a side note I was disappointed that dnice has said a year later with all the firmware updates black level has increased in order to reduce floating blacks and brightness pops. From .0017 to .0041
Unfortunately, I don't think Samsung will do anything more to fix the issue. Samsung won't waste anymore time or money on FW updates (other than for smart hub) to get blacks back to .0017 without causing floating blacks. With the F8500 being discontinued, Samsung doesn't care and will not have employees work on such a fix. Perhaps in a year or 2 someone outside the company will be able to figure it out with a hack.

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post #7147 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason626 View Post
Judging by your posts and how you view your tv I don't think you would notice it being not as bright. With your cell light low I bet you haven't reached the cutoff point of where that changed.


On a side note I was disappointed that dnice has said a year later with all the firmware updates black level has increased in order to reduce floating blacks and brightness pops. From .0017 to .0041
Brightness reduce too but most won't care about that as much.

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you may be right, but on the other hand I've been paying very close attention to the brightness since I got it. when I first set it up, I think I settled in with a cell light around 15-16. now I have it on 20(but only because I read turning it down messed with abl) and have eco setting on low. if I turn the eco off, I still want to have the cell light no higher than 15, and actually don't mind it as low as 10. still, I've never made measurements, so, just my impression


now, I'm never going to contradict somebody like d-nice, but I can add to his comments by saying, I have not noticed an increase in blacks, nor have I noticed a decrease in 'floating blacks' since I bought my tv. this is why I'm still wondering at what fw these fixes actually happened, because they were 'supposed' to happen about 12 different times... haha. this could suggest some variance in the panels to begin with(maybe I got one that was already 'fixed') or just that these changes are actually pretty subtle and take an extremely trained eye, or meter to detect.

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #7148 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 02:16 PM
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We have a new King. He He He.

Perhaps I misremembered.

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post #7149 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 02:55 PM
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I thought the original reading for the F8500 was for an all black screen so it went from .0017 to .0025 not .0041. What was the original ansi for it?.
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post #7150 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Sheckler View Post
I thought the original reading for the F8500 was for an all black screen so it went from .0017 to .0025 not .0041. What was the original ansi for it?.

in all honesty, there's been a pretty big range in measured values since it was released. the .0017 is probably the best any f8500 measured, not necessarily the average. I'm sure a lot of these values can be found in the early pages of both this thread as well as the calibration thread

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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post #7151 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 04:53 PM
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Hi guys! Proud to be a new 8500 64" owner on Friday and just had a quick question: do you guys run the Evangelo break-in images for the first few hundred hours or is it not necessary? I am new to the plasma world. Thanks!
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post #7152 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by i want more View Post
as someone who is planning on purchasing this display this week you are not giving me a lot of confidence.
Ditto!!!
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post #7153 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rodddogg View Post
Hi guys! Proud to be a new 8500 64" owner on Friday and just had a quick question: do you guys run the Evangelo break-in images for the first few hundred hours or is it not necessary? I am new to the plasma world. Thanks!
not necessary. the main goal of break in slides is to speed up the process so you can get a meaningful professional calibration sooner. it's usually advised to wait 300hrs before paying for a calibration, and the slides are a safe way to get those hours.


if you want, use the tv normally during the day, and then run the slides for a few hours overnight(just use the sleep timer). but really, any full screen content is good.


I think the other reason ppl have recommended using the slides is because IR is typically easier to create during the first couple hundred hours. it's not any more likely to be permanent, it's just more likely to be noticeable. and I bet a lot of ppl will see the ir, freak out and return the set. even though all they need to do is watch 2hrs of full screen content and it'll be gone anyway. so they probably get fewer returns if they tell ppl to 'break in' their tv before viewing.


anyway, just don't be silly with it. vary your content, and use appropriate settings and you should be fine. ir will come and go(very very faint on the f8500 though) and really isn't a problem. view it as a warning, when you see IR, it means you should display something different for awhile to clear it up. not that ir will turn into burning in just a couple hours, but it can only either get better or worse, so might as well watch something else and make it better. if you keep allowing it to get worse, it could become a permanent issue eventually(weeks, maybe months of ignoring it?)

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
AVR: Pioneer VSX-1018AH, 5.1 audio
Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #7154 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 06:15 PM
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Fierce,

Thanks so much for the quick response! I have a few questions for you if you could please answer them.

1. When you are saying full screen content I'm assuming anything on my Verizon Fios on HD but would i have to zoom or something to get rid of those damn logos networks put in/commercials that have the bars?

2. Is there a particular contrast & brightness setting/number I should have it during this break in period? ie. cranking settings to the far end.

2. Would you recommend not playing any content containing the black bars on top and bottom & side to side (sorry have no idea what the terms are lol). Can I not watch or even test any movies I have ripped on my NAS? Or even no gaming within the first few hundred hours? I don't want to do anything that will hinder this TV's capability of being the best it could possibly be.

Thanks so much the help. I'm a straight noob.
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post #7155 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodddogg View Post
Fierce,

Thanks so much for the quick response! I have a few questions for you if you could please answer them.

1. When you are saying full screen content I'm assuming anything on my Verizon Fios on HD but would i have to zoom or something to get rid of those damn logos networks put in/commercials that have the bars?

2. Is there a particular contrast & brightness setting/number I should have it during this break in period? ie. cranking settings to the far end.

2. Would you recommend not playing any content containing the black bars on top and bottom & side to side (sorry have no idea what the terms are lol). Can I not watch or even test any movies I have ripped on my NAS? Or even no gaming within the first few hundred hours? I don't want to do anything that will hinder this TV's capability of being the best it could possibly be.

Thanks so much the help. I'm a straight noob.
1. as long as it's not 4:3 or 2.35:1 content for hours on end, you should be fine. the key is variety. IR only becomes an issue if you watch the same thing over and over. I tend to spend about 2-3hrs a day sometimes on the internet reading forums and what not(my f8500 is also my pc monitor btw), which would be a serious issue if that was all I used it for. but I also watch tv, movies, play video games. so it all kind of evens out. it's just that for the first few hundred hours, the phosphor seem to age more noticeably, so ir might start to present itself after watching just a single movie(the letterbox bars), it'll go away quickly, but you wouldn't want to do a whole movie marathon right away. after many hrs, the phosphor stabilize a bit more, so it takes longer for IR to occur. you can probably watch that movie marathon, and only get a hint of IR that vanishes within minutes of full screen content.


2. from the reports I've seen, the samsungs work 'best' with a contrast of around 95, and cell light left at 20. changing either of these actually affects other aspects of the picture. I have my brightness set somewhere around 44 iirc. but it's best to grab a test disc, or download the avs patterns and do a basic 'by eye' calibration for that. setting the brightness is a pretty simple, but super important thing. if it's turned up too high, it totally destroys the picture quality and everything looks washed out like the worst lcd you've ever seen. if it's set too low, the blacks look great, but you lose all the detail in the shadows. adjusting the things like color, gamma, etc are also important, but they are more difficult, and likely wouldn't have a big affect on IR anyway. there's plenty of calibrations you can try in the f8500 calibration thread. I would advise trying one or two as a STARTING point. every panel is a little different, so you should expect to make a couple of tweaks afterwards. if it doesn't look good, don't just assume it's correct.


2(the second one ). I'm totally making up this arbitrary number, but I feel like if you maintain about a 2:1 ratio of full screen vs black bars, you should be ok. that is, if you watch a 2hr movie, watch 4hrs of regular tv before you do the next movie. and again, this won't really be necessary after a few months. the point is just don't get carried away and if you notice IR, take that as a hint you should do something else soon. I have an older plasma(Samsung pn50b530) in my living room, and for some stupid reason almost ALL the channels I get through the cable box are 16:9 broadcast as 4:3 with black bars top and bottom, so I end up with a stretched out image that still has black bars. every couple of weeks I notice some IR from those black bars that are on 90% of the time, so I zoom in for a couple days and 'wash' away the IR. it seems like a basic thing to me, but I've seen at friends homes where they clearly haven't done this, and over the course of a year or two that IR becomes very noticeable, and even annoying/distracting. whenever you're not REALLY paying attention, it's best to zoom in to get a full screen. I've never personally had any issues with things like score overlays, or channel logos. I find the commercial breaks(either actually watching the commercials or me flipping to another channel) is more than enough to prevent any IR from occurring. if you're the type to leave CNN on in the background for 8hrs every day, that might be a different story...


but really, when we're talking about IR on this set, we're talking in terms of hours. you can do just about anything for a few minutes and it won't matter. you may see ir but it'll go away in seconds. what you need to watch out for is doing something for HOURS on end. play your video game, watch a movie, that's fine. just don't do it for 20hrs in row

Displays: Samsung PN64F8500/JVC X35
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Sources: HTPC(Mediabrowser), PS3, XBOX360, Wii, Sony DVP-CX995V
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post #7156 of 7155 Old Yesterday, 11:02 PM
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I just picked up a used f8500 60" It had 1100 hours on it.. paid $1000. No burn in and no buzzing..Out of curiosity, I am doing a comparison of this tv and my GT50. The f8500 is a bit brighter, but my gt50 is very bright as well. The only real differences I'm seeing between both sets, is that the f8500 handles sd content extremely well, while the gt50 does not at all.. Also in certain dark scenes, i see a bit more detail with the gt50, but I've only tried a few settings variations on the f8500, i may have not found the perfect one yet..It seems as if when watching the brighter scenes the f8500 is a bit better but with some of the darker scenes the gt50 is a bit better. I now see why so many ppl are undecided as to which is better.. Before anyone here says, "hey wait a minute, you only have a gt50 and not a vt60" I have owned the vt60 last year and when comparing it to my gt50, found that the gt50 had a better picture, with more pop". That's part of the reason i got rid of my vt60,, along with the fan noise and reflections.. Speaking of reflections, the F8500 is awesome at reducing glare, best I've seen since my old matte screened lcd!

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