Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 304 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9091 of 12064 Old 11-29-2014, 07:21 PM
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Question: is it normal to have a little bit of dirty screen effect on the F8500? Is it inherent in all plasma displays?
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post #9092 of 12064 Old 11-29-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I've played around with a meter quite a bit on my F8500 which means a lot of time in the menus. I've gotten IR from the input label that appears in the upper right but I've always been able to scrub it out between calibration sessions. I find that the most useful thing is an animated bluray. Try running one that covers the area of the logo (No letterbox) for a few hours.
I'm running Monsters University and The Lego Movie zoomed fullscreen. Bright and colorful animated movies should give the phosphors a workout. Thanks for the suggestion!

So you've been able to get rid of IR from your calibration patterns that would have otherwise lingered for hours? I'm curious because all the IR I've seen on my set clears up within a few seconds of showing the solid color of the Smart Hub or changing the channel. Perhaps this very short term temporary image is not the same as IR. I'm quite new to this sort of thing.
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post #9093 of 12064 Old 11-29-2014, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
I'm running Monsters University and The Lego Movie zoomed fullscreen. Bright and colorful animated movies should give the phosphors a workout. Thanks for the suggestion!

So you've been able to get rid of IR from your calibration patterns that would have otherwise lingered for hours? I'm curious because all the IR I've seen on my set clears up within a few seconds of showing the solid color of the Smart Hub or changing the channel. Perhaps this very short term temporary image is not the same as IR. I'm quite new to this sort of thing.
I also get the extremely short duration ghosting you describe. The IR I get from the input label is different. It is visible against color slides and the screen scroll. But so far it has always scrubbed out. There have been days where I was probably calibrating for as long as you had the one channel on. But I would take breaks in between and run full screen content.


I will say I'm a bit disappointed in pixel shift function. It really does just smear the IR.


Either way I do think the F8500 is IR resistant. Some odd things just stick around. Mine is a July build delivered in October. And when I first turned it on the 'ghost' of the service menu appeared for a few seconds. I assume from burn in at the factor but very odd to be there months later...
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post #9094 of 12064 Old 11-29-2014, 11:17 PM
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I hear you. However, at some point in the chain, eventually the signal has to match the native resolution of the panel. Whether it be at the source, switching component or panel. So it is a matter of picking your poison. I remember when I set the TiVo output to the native resolution of the broadcast channel, it would switch from 1080i, 720p, etc. and the Pioneer Elite TV would take extra time to sync up before displaying video. However when I set the TiVo to always output 1080p, the TV synced up much quicker as I changed channels on the TiVo.
I got annoyed with those banners with my DirecTV box when it was set to Native. I have my Directv box going into the back of my Oppo 103D so I can use Darbee, and then from my Oppo to the tv. Every time I switched from 720p to 1080i channel, and vice versa, the banner would slide down from the top, and sometimes another Samsung banner would pop up saying no source connected until the handshake was reestablished. So I set the DirecTV video resolution from Native to off, which then sends everything to my OPPO as 1080i, and it eliminated the banners. Really don't notice any difference in video quality between 1080i and native. On top of that, the OPPO 103D converts the signal to 1080p anyways whether I have the OPPO set to Auto or 1080p, so I leave the OPPO video setting at 1080p to create less issues.

Last edited by wxman; 11-29-2014 at 11:20 PM.
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post #9095 of 12064 Old 11-30-2014, 06:56 AM
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If you bought your F8500 with an American Express Card it may be covered by the FREE American Express Extended Warranty. Info here: https://www.americanexpress.com/us/content/card-benefits/extended-warranty.html

Summary from above: “Why is it that as soon as a manufacturer's warranty runs out, something always seems to happen? Use your Card for your eligible purchases and you can have warranty protection for longer.

Use Your Eligible Card - Extended Warranty can provide up to one extra year added to the original U.S. manufacturer’swarranty. Applies to warranties of 5 years or less when the eligible purchase is charged to the Card.
Coverage - You will only be covered up to the actual amount charged to your Card for the item up to a maximum of $10,000; not to exceed $50,000 per Card Member account per calendar year. Please read important exclusions and restrictions.”

If you buy extended warranty on an item then I believe the AMEX Extended Warranty starts when your purchased warranty ends. You should check on that.

Lost or stolen purchases are also insured. Claims can be made over the phone by calling AMEX customer support number on the back of your card.

If you have questions you should visit link above first for more information. AMEX advertised this feature a lot in the past but have not seen it mentioned in a while. I have only made one claim, when my son’s new digital camera and accessories were stolen from his university room. Called and got full credit and he bought another camera.

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post #9096 of 12064 Old 11-30-2014, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sr View Post
I hear you. However, at some point in the chain, eventually the signal has to match the native resolution of the panel. Whether it be at the source, switching component or panel. So it is a matter of picking your poison. I remember when I set the TiVo output to the native resolution of the broadcast channel, it would switch from 1080i, 720p, etc. and the Pioneer Elite TV would take extra time to sync up before displaying video. However when I set the TiVo to always output 1080p, the TV synced up much quicker as I changed channels on the TiVo.
All you have to do is make sure the source is turned on before the F8500 is turned on. That's the issue. The banner will not appear. I discovered that issue early on. The banner kept appearing every day. Apparently it's a handshake issue. I would always turn on the F8500 first then my DirecTV box and minutes later the screen would flash (as if it was turning off) and the input source banner would pop up. After I discovered the issue I now turn on the DirecTV box or Blu-ray player first and then the F8500. Never had a problem since.

Why are people changing resolutions? That doesn't make sense and should not be the solution. Just make sure the source is turned on first.
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post #9097 of 12064 Old 11-30-2014, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by HLdan View Post
All you have to do is make sure the source is turned on before the F8500 is turned on. That's the issue. The banner will not appear. I discovered that issue early on. The banner kept appearing every day. Apparently it's a handshake issue. I would always turn on the F8500 first then my DirecTV box and minutes later the screen would flash (as if it was turning off) and the input source banner would pop up. After I discovered the issue I now turn on the DirecTV box or Blu-ray player first and then the F8500. Never had a problem since.

Why are people changing resolutions? That doesn't make sense and should not be the solution. Just make sure the source is turned on first.
SR's problem was not only happening upon turning on his tv. He was seeing repeated 8500 info banners while playing a movie or streaming apps from his Oppo blu-ray player. There was some strange hdmi handshaking going on, so the suggestion to explicitly change all of his "auto" video settings to fixed values in his blu-ray player so far has squelched the 8500 popup screens from coming up repeatedly.

This 8500 info banner can pop up any time an hdmi handshake takes place. Handshakes can happen from a change of video resolution or refresh rate from the original source device, such as a cable box or blu-ray player. There has been constant conversations across all the video forums about whether to let your source device (i.e. cable box) output a fixed video resolution for all broadcasted channels or whether to program it (if possible) to output a broadcast's "native" video, then let the downstream device (i.e. tv or blu-ray player) do the upconversion/de-interlacing. The thought process behind this is that cable boxes/STB's/DVR's are notorious for less than favorable video conversions than high end blu-ray players (i.e. Oppo) or high end tv's. So, letting the tv or other downstream source device do the video upscaling/de-interlacing may produce a more favorable picture....The drawback from allowing the cable box/STB to output native video is that every time you change a channel to a broadcast with a different "native" resolution (i.e. 720p to 1080i, 480i to 720p, or vice versa), this will cause an hdmi handshake, creating a 2-3 second blank screen, and make the 8500 info banner display. Repeatedly changing channels with the same native video resolution would not cause any hdmi handshakes, and thus none of the above effects I mentioned of the 8500's screen. It's a tradoff of possibly a better picture over the annoying 2-3 second blank screens with popup info banner. Some report they can see a difference in SD (480i) broadcasts when their tv or downstrem device is doing the video conversion as opposed to when their cable box/STB does them. I have FIOS tv, and I have been switching back and forth between setting the fios DVR to output native video or to fix it at 1080i. I cannot see a difference in video quality between the two, and I don't watch SD content that often anyway, so I think I will let the fios dvr output a fixed video resolution (1080i), and let the 8500 deinterlace to 1080p (its native panel resolution) to eliminate the annoying 8500 info banners from popping up, along with the 2-3 second blank screen as I described above.

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post #9098 of 12064 Old 11-30-2014, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
SR's problem was not only happening upon turning on his tv. He was seeing repeated 8500 info banners while playing a movie or streaming apps from his Oppo blu-ray player. There was some strange hdmi handshaking going on, so the suggestion to explicitly change all of his "auto" video settings to fixed values in his blu-ray player so far has squelched the 8500 popup screens from coming up repeatedly.

This 8500 info banner can pop up any time an hdmi handshake takes place. Handshakes can happen from a change of video resolution or refresh rate from the original source device, such as a cable box or blu-ray player. There has been constant conversations across all the video forums about whether to let your source device (i.e. cable box) output a fixed video resolution for all broadcasted channels or whether to program it (if possible) to output a broadcast's "native" video, then let the downstream device (i.e. tv or blu-ray player) do the upconversion/de-interlacing. The thought process behind this is that cable boxes/STB's/DVR's are notorious for less than favorable video conversions than high end blu-ray players (i.e. Oppo) or high end tv's. So, letting the tv or other downstream source device do the video upscaling/de-interlacing may produce a more favorable picture....The drawback from allowing the cable box/STB to output native video is that every time you change a channel to a broadcast with a different "native" resolution (i.e. 720p to 1080i, 480i to 720p, or vice versa), this will cause an hdmi handshake, creating a 2-3 second blank screen, and make the 8500 info banner display. Repeatedly changing channels with the same native video resolution would not cause any hdmi handshakes, and thus none of the above effects I mentioned of the 8500's screen. It's a tradoff of possibly a better picture over the annoying 2-3 second blank screens with popup info banner. Some report they can see a difference in SD (480i) broadcasts when their tv or downstrem device is doing the video conversion as opposed to when their cable box/STB does them. I have FIOS tv, and I have been switching back and forth between setting the fios DVR to output native video or to fix it at 1080i. I cannot see a difference in video quality between the two, and I don't watch SD content that often anyway, so I think I will let the fios dvr output a fixed video resolution (1080i), and let the 8500 deinterlace to 1080p (its native panel resolution) to eliminate the annoying 8500 info banners from popping up, along with the 2-3 second blank screen as I described above.

Ah, I see. I didn't know people were having much bigger issues other than what I referring to. Sadly since this is the end of Plasma I guess we can't expect Samsung to fix this issue in firmware.....if it's a fixable issue.
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post #9099 of 12064 Old 11-30-2014, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by AMartin56 View Post
I also get the extremely short duration ghosting you describe. The IR I get from the input label is different. It is visible against color slides and the screen scroll. But so far it has always scrubbed out. There have been days where I was probably calibrating for as long as you had the one channel on. But I would take breaks in between and run full screen content.


I will say I'm a bit disappointed in pixel shift function. It really does just smear the IR.


Either way I do think the F8500 is IR resistant. Some odd things just stick around. Mine is a July build delivered in October. And when I first turned it on the 'ghost' of the service menu appeared for a few seconds. I assume from burn in at the factor but very odd to be there months later...
I left an RGB animation video play for roughly 15 hours and the "sci" is almost entirely gone thankfully! I'm going to leave the video playing this evening before watching a movie fullscreen (not taking any chances). I have an October build delivered in late November and I've noticed the buzz more after relocating the set 115 miles today. Still not distracting though as some have described their buzzing. I can see why people treat their plasmas as best friends, the set has so much character and life to it that I seem to have develop a bond with it unlike any other piece of technology. Interesting...

I do have a question about the black level on the 51" F8500 though. It's my understanding from reading reviews that the 51" has the same black levels as the 60" and 64" version which apparently wasn't the case on previous Samsung plasmas but I'm beginning to wonder if to some degree the case still holds. My eyes are drawn towards the black level and to my eyes it's quite noticeable despite some reviewers claiming the blacks appeared to nearly vanish in a dark room. I'm not getting that sensation at all, the blacks are very noticeable to me but perhaps that's just because of my added attention to it.

By how much should I expect the black level to deepen as the phosphors age? Does peak brightness take a hit from the aging process too? Has anyone noticed an appreciate drop in MLL over the course of watching their set?
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post #9100 of 12064 Old 11-30-2014, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DRN94 View Post
I left an RGB animation video play for roughly 15 hours and the "sci" is almost entirely gone thankfully! I'm going to leave the video playing this evening before watching a movie fullscreen (not taking any chances). I have an October build delivered in late November and I've noticed the buzz more after relocating the set 115 miles today. Still not distracting though as some have described their buzzing. I can see why people treat their plasmas as best friends, the set has so much character and life to it that I seem to have develop a bond with it unlike any other piece of technology. Interesting...

I do have a question about the black level on the 51" F8500 though. It's my understanding from reading reviews that the 51" has the same black levels as the 60" and 64" version which apparently wasn't the case on previous Samsung plasmas but I'm beginning to wonder if to some degree the case still holds. My eyes are drawn towards the black level and to my eyes it's quite noticeable despite some reviewers claiming the blacks appeared to nearly vanish in a dark room. I'm not getting that sensation at all, the blacks are very noticeable to me but perhaps that's just because of my added attention to it.

By how much should I expect the black level to deepen as the phosphors age? Does peak brightness take a hit from the aging process too? Has anyone noticed an appreciate drop in MLL over the course of watching their set?
Just be careful with logos for the first couple of weeks.

I don't think blacks will improve with age. Did you own a Panasonic before? My old ST60 held blacks better. The F8500 blacks float a bit but are still quite good. There is no perfect display.

If you are watching in a dark room try gamma at -1 and see if your perception of the blacks improves. (It won't change how they measure).

Also note... If you are coming from an LED it might have used dimming gimmicks to offer deeper blacks (that it also crushed the hell out of...).
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post #9101 of 12064 Old 11-30-2014, 11:23 PM
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Just be careful with logos for the first couple of weeks.

I don't think blacks will improve with age. Did you own a Panasonic before? My old ST60 held blacks better. The F8500 blacks float a bit but are still quite good. There is no perfect display.

If you are watching in a dark room try gamma at -1 and see if your perception of the blacks improves. (It won't change how they measure).

Also note... If you are coming from an LED it might have used dimming gimmicks to offer deeper blacks (that it also crushed the hell out of...).
This is my first plasma and it's nice to have the rumor of better blacks as the phosphors age answered. One less thing to OCD about.

I honestly don't see any evidence of floating blacks during content on the F8500 except for an all black screen where the MLL seems to abruptly cut to a third it normally is. Perhaps the floating is so gradual or minimal during content my eyes can't catch when it raises and lowers. The "fixed" MLL has kept me at cell light 20 to get the highest contrast possible even if it's a bit bright at night. I wish there was some way to calibrate Dynamic because it would look truly LED like during the day in that mode; Dynamic gets the panel absurdly bright on this thing.

I adjusted gamma ever so slightly with the 2 point white balance offset. Gamma -1 crushed shadow detail and changed color saturation too much for my liking. My WB adjustment is in between Gamma 0 and -1 it seems. I'm going by eye, which is very difficult although I feel I'm quite good at spotting discoloration at low and high areas of the greyscale.

I've also attempted to employ the WB contrast ratio boosting "trick" that works well on Samsung's LEDs. Basically you raise the prominent RGB gain to at least 40 (or as high as possible) and then adjust everything else to match up the greyscale as much as the human eye can discern without discoloration and keeping a close to a proper d6500k temperature (very difficult for those without meters). I think I've gotten quite close albeit probably with spotty gamma but all my eyes mainly notice is a higher peak white. I think the gamma at the lower end is more important and is very adjustable by eye. On an LED this WB boost raises the peak white while keeping the same MLL and can increase the contrast ratio by up to 10%. I tried to do a similar thing on Movie on the F8500 and it seems to have gotten the brightness up to Standard's with contrast still at 95. Perhaps this is placebo but I noticed a slight boost in brightness (and thus contrast).

Also, I came from (still have) a Sammy F8000 LED that has edge lit local dimming. The dimming does a surprisingly well job of improving blacks and maintaining highlights without crushing shadow detail or lowering highlight luminance. Samsung's engineers were able to keep for a most part a stable gamma with the dimming, something other manufacturers neglect or don't manage quite right thus avoiding the crushed blacks some poor dimming systems cause. But mild blooming is still visible of course. There has to be a decent sized horizontal left or right edge to center portion of the screen being pure black in order to cause the LEDs to shut almost totally out. Any tiny bit of any shadow detail keeps the LEDs lit slightly more (albeit dimmed to improve black). I can't put a number to it but my 55" F8000 has at least 24 discrete dimming zones, 12 on each L/R side. The algorithms smoothly and dynamically dim nearby zones so it's not a binary on/off transition like some poor dimming systems.

Scenes with darker or black areas get a decent improvement in inner scene contrast from the dimming but the most significant benefit is inky black letterbox bars which make the overall picture pop more. This added dimming feature is called Cinema Black on Samsung's sets and it will auto detect black bars and dim them considerably, darker than the F8500's native black to my eyes.

Some scenes absolutely rock on the F8000 such as the final raid sequence in Zero Dark Thirty. The MLL gets practically 0 at times with shadow detail and highlights being properly lit. I'll have to remember to compare that scene when I have the two sets side by side again in a few weeks, I haven't watched that scene in quite some time. These local dimming showcasing scenes are very few and far between though, so I wouldn't consider it a reason to prefer LED over plasma. As you can tell I still like my F8000 very much despite its glaring LED LCD pitfalls

I wish I had a meter to put some numbers to all this (and more accurately calibrate) but these are just my observations having had the sets side by side the past week.

I haven't watched much dark content on the F8500 yet. I have Gravity lined up to watch with my roommates. Any other black level showcasing movies you recommend to watch?
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post #9102 of 12064 Old 12-01-2014, 02:55 AM
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Check out the Dark Knight. It is a reference quality DVD with a fair amount of dark scenes.
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post #9103 of 12064 Old 12-01-2014, 05:36 PM
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It is with a heavy heart that I have decided to return my 51" F8500 for a refund. The quality of the set is amazing, the picture is second to only OLED and this model will definitely go down in television technology history but my circumstances make it difficult for me to rationalize keeping the F8500. I had a great time with it the past week but I will be saying goodbye to it soon. I give a big thanks to everyone on this forum who has directly or indirectly helped me with the set. Enjoy the show!
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post #9104 of 12064 Old 12-01-2014, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ahmedqman View Post
Question: is it normal to have a little bit of dirty screen effect on the F8500? Is it inherent in all plasma displays?
Yes, but it can vary in how bad it is from one panel to the next. Like mine, unfortunately, is very noticeable even on a static image of a solid/semi-solid medium to light color without any panning whatsoever. And then when you introduce panning (watching sports, fps gaming, etc.) it is pretty annoying and I am struggling with keeping it or returning. Does anyone have experience with getting Samsung to replace a panel with noticeable uniformity banding/DSE?

I forgot to say it is just one vertical shadowy spot on my screen which is in my opinion out of the norm even for plasmas.
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post #9105 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 10:43 AM
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Presets

Are there presets for multiple settings on this display? Can I have a setting for Sports and another setting for Movies? If so, how would I do that?
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post #9106 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 11:40 AM
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Are there presets for multiple settings on this display? Can I have a setting for Sports and another setting for Movies? If so, how would I do that?
You could try using Game Mode. It will keep all settings separate from the ones you're using for Movie, and the difference is barely noticeable if you set it up right. Refer to Orion's settings post on the slightly different settings for Standard mode.

Or, just use pain standard without game mode. You'll have to experiment as I'm just brainstorming here
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post #9107 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 12:04 PM
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Congratulations! I was also surprised by the size of the box. I bought the 65" and it was fastened to a wood pallet. FedEx did a great job protecting it. By the way, you may want to use the Movie picture mode rather than the Standard mode. I found it provided a nicer picture. I may also consider getting a professional alignment after the set has been in use for a while.
Absolutely! Movie mode is the best. I find the cell light needs to be turned down quite a bit as well. It vary's from panel to panel. My cell light is set to 11. Still very bright night or day.
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post #9108 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 12:14 PM
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I've had my F8500 for five days and I watched the Science Channel last night and most of today and I unfortunately found that the channel logo has burned into the screen I thought I was being careful but I guess I was too confident with the F8500's handling of IR. I've definitely learned my lesson! I hope to goodness it goes away by midnight. Gosh this sucks
It should. My 60" was new in August this year. I have never had any I/R whatsoever. I didn't do any break-in. Just careful for about two weeks. I don't even think about it anymore.

Don't worry, it will go away. Try using the scroll feature for a while. It's in the settings for screen protection.
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post #9109 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 12:51 PM
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No audio from speakers through HDMI connection

I have just purchased a PN64F8500 to replace my old Visio. Was lucky enough to get one at Fry's, it is an October 2014 build, firmware 1204, and doesn't have a buzz or banding that I can tell. I am just about through with the break in and will at first calibrate it myself with the Spears and Munsil 2nd edition, maybe pro cal later. I have been running the break in slides from an old Oppo 970-H that I have, and for kicks stuck a movie in too see how it looked (great, even with all the controls dialed down), but I can't get sound through the TV speakers (and yes, I will eventually have sound going through my receiver). I have tried switching the Oppo to each one of the HDMI connections, powering off both units in between switches, and still no joy.

I have the Oppo set to downmix to stereo, and the digital output to PCM, and HDMI set to LPCM. I have also tried all the other combinations to no avail. I read on Samsung's site there was a known issue with audio on HDMI, and that there was a firmware fix for that particular issue, which wasn't detailed, but I have the latest firmware I believe.

Any ideas (I have spent hours searching this and other threads by the way).
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post #9110 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Hagendos View Post
.. but I can't get sound through the TV speakers (and yes, I will eventually have sound going through my receiver). I have tried switching the Oppo to each one of the HDMI connections, powering off both units in between switches, and still no joy.

I have the Oppo set to downmix to stereo, and the digital output to PCM, and HDMI set to LPCM. I have also tried all the other combinations to no avail.

Any ideas (I have spent hours searching this and other threads by the way).
You've probably checked this already, but are you sure you don't have "HDMI Audio" on your Oppo player set to OFF? It should probably be set to "Multi-channel".
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post #9111 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 01:07 PM
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There is a TV setting in the Menu under Audio to select sound output. It should be set to internal speakers. Oh, and make sure that ARC is off and no optical cable is connected to the optical output otherwise the internal speaker option gets greyed out. The TV is sometimes too smart for its own good! I forget if the Oppo should be set to Bitsream or PCM. In Bitstream, the decoding of the audio signal is done by the TV, in PCM the Oppo does the decoding. Try each setting to see which works.

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post #9112 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 01:15 PM
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Are there presets for multiple settings on this display? Can I have a setting for Sports and another setting for Movies? If so, how would I do that?
There are two modes you can unlock from the service menu, Cal-Day and Cal-Night. You could calibrate one for Sports and the other for movies if you like. Then it's as easy as going to picture settings and changing picture mode. I believe the method to unlock those modes have been mentioned in the thread within the last few days. A search should pull it up for you.

Thanks to Soulburner for his recommendation, however the game mode severely limits the calibration options.
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post #9113 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
You've probably checked this already, but are you sure you don't have "HDMI Audio" on your Oppo player set to OFF? It should probably be set to "Multi-channel".
I probably should have been clearer above, in the Oppo sound menu, HDMI audio has three choices, "Auto, LPCM, and Off" - I have it set to LPCM. Thanks.
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post #9114 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sr View Post
There is a TV setting in the Menu under Audio to select sound output. It should be set to internal speakers. Oh, and make sure that ARC is off and no optical cable is connected to the optical output otherwise the internal speaker option gets greyed out. The TV is sometimes too smart for its own good! I forget if the Oppo should be set to Bitsream or PCM. In Bitstream, the decoding of the audio signal is done by the TV, in PCM the Oppo does the decoding. Try each setting to see which works.
I have it set to TV speakers, there is no optical cable attached, only thing attached to the TV is the Oppo via HDMI (brand new high speed cable as well). Couldn't find a setting to turn ARC off, the Oppo isn't attached to HDMI2 anyway.

Oppo's site recommends that if you have the 970 connected directly to a TV, the output should be PCM, the other choice is RAW, which I've tried as well without success.

I have an Oppo BDP-103 coming, so I'll be able to check whether the problem is with the 970, or the TV - although I doubt that all the TV's HDMIs could be bad. Oppo has some refurbished 103s on their site right now by the way, if anyone is interested.

thanks
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post #9115 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagendos View Post
I probably should have been clearer above, in the Oppo sound menu, HDMI audio has three choices, "Auto, LPCM, and Off" - I have it set to LPCM. Thanks.
Sorry about that. I guess the online pdf doc on your Oppo player doesn't match your current firmware. The choices for "hdmi audio" in the pdf doc for your player are "Multi-channel, Spdif, and off".
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post #9116 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagendos View Post
I have it set to TV speakers, there is no optical cable attached, only thing attached to the TV is the Oppo via HDMI (brand new high speed cable as well). Couldn't find a setting to turn ARC off, the Oppo isn't attached to HDMI2 anyway.
thanks
To prove your tv speakers are actually functioning, you could go into the tv's "Support -> Self Diagnosis" menu and do a sound test.
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post #9117 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
Sorry about that. I guess the online pdf doc on your Oppo player doesn't match your current firmware. The choices for "hdmi audio" in the pdf doc for your player are "Multi-channel, Spdif, and off".
No worries, I think the firmware upgrades outpaced the manual upgrades as you suggest
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post #9118 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DanF8500 View Post
To prove your tv speakers are actually functioning, you could go into the tv's "Support -> Self Diagnosis" menu and do a sound test.
I connected to the Netflix app and watched a vid from there and the speakers worked fine with that. My hope is that there is some kind of handshake issue with the old Oppo HDMI port, I think it' s only 1.1.
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post #9119 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 09:56 PM
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Sort out motion issues

So, while I am trying to sort out motion issues, I am watching Directv on auto 2 with everything off ie motion jutter etc. When I watch a regular 'DVD, film mode gives me no options of auto 1,2 or film mode. Is this correct? Function not available. What adjustments can be made to the DVDs motion?

Thanks
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post #9120 of 12064 Old 12-02-2014, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagendos View Post
I have it set to TV speakers, there is no optical cable attached, only thing attached to the TV is the Oppo via HDMI (brand new high speed cable as well). Couldn't find a setting to turn ARC off, the Oppo isn't attached to HDMI2 anyway.

Oppo's site recommends that if you have the 970 connected directly to a TV, the output should be PCM, the other choice is RAW, which I've tried as well without success.

I have an Oppo BDP-103 coming, so I'll be able to check whether the problem is with the 970, or the TV - although I doubt that all the TV's HDMIs could be bad. Oppo has some refurbished 103s on their site right now by the way, if anyone is interested.

thanks
Well I have been eying out a 103D for a while but I couldn't pass up saving almost $200 for just a regular Oppo 103. Thanks for the heads up, I now have a refurbished 103 on the way for my 60".
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