Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 377 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11281 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bmcn View Post
The flat Sanus, with no tilt or telescope, is good quality but one from monoprice that suits your requirements should be good.
I can see where tilting down would be nice for this spot, not sure telescoping is needed, but could come in handy. I think the tilting will be a lot closer to the wall vs. the telescoping ones right?
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post #11282 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 03:32 PM
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This one appears to allow me to mount this bracket right on top of the two outlets I have on the wall, plenty of space in there, so I can center the TV right on top of those outlets...am I wrong with this mount? It does say its only up to 52" but the weight of this 64" is 73lbs so this mount can hold that, but maybe the size of the bracket is not going to fit on the back of the TV?


http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

So if that one wont fit my TV, this one is up to 63", thats pretty close to 64" wonder if it would fit?

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2

again, what I'm worried about is these look really close to the wall, so will the power cable, HDMI and network cable fit back there between the wall and mount and TV?

Last edited by ChrisMc73; 03-04-2015 at 03:35 PM.
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post #11283 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 03:40 PM
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You only need to worry about two things with TV mounts -- weight limit and VESA measurement. The "fits TV" measurement is only a suggestion. I don't know if you already have the TV, but on mine by far what stuck out the furthest was the power cable, right in the middle of the TV. I bought an ultra slim mount from monoprice and used the largest spacer without issue. Was able to mount my previous 65" Panasonic closer to the wall, but it was tight.
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post #11284 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by videoaddikt View Post
so you are saying the NF issue is resolved with the Samsung. As usual Roku sets the standard for others to follow. Good stuff!
It the opposite. My friend has 2 Rokus. One is an HDMI only and one has toslink (I dont recall models). Toslink with Netflix gives him 2 Ch. The HDMI Roku does DD+. The HDMI Roku doesnt have to do anything but bitstream the signal through. A device that only has toslink or ARC HAS to convert DD+ to DD vanilla. Samsung TV does this and Roku does not. From what I understand, Roku has no plans to correct this.

EDIT: Dont think I explained that well
Device that only has to pass audio via HDMI has it easy (Roku, Chomecast stick as examples). Bitstream it through. Nothing to do.

DD+ cannot go over ARC or Toslink. It must be converted to DD vanilla. A Smart TV must convert the DD+ to DD to send it out via ARC or Toslink. It has more to do than just bitstream the DD+ through.

Last edited by sjm817; 03-04-2015 at 07:19 PM.
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post #11285 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 06:00 PM
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I believe all ROKU devices output RGB Video Level too. No way to change the color space. Many other streaming devices output YCC color space. I don't think this is an issue though. The 8500 should be able to handle either RGB or YCbCr inputs.

Last edited by DanF8500; 03-04-2015 at 06:03 PM.
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post #11286 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
what I'm worried about is these look really close to the wall, so will the power cable, HDMI and network cable fit back there between the wall and mount and TV?
As pointed out by mwl, the power cable is the only one that protrudes from the back of the tv. The lan cable plugs into a recessed receptacle on the back and HDMI cables connect at the side. fwiw, my 64 is 1.25" from the wall with the Sanus mount.

There were several monoprice mounts recommended by others elsewhere in this thread.
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Last edited by bmcn; 03-04-2015 at 07:45 PM.
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post #11287 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by sjm817 View Post
It the opposite. My friend has 2 Rokus. One is an HDMI only and one has toslink (I dont recall models). Toslink with Netflix gives him 2 Ch. The HDMI Roku does DD+. The HDMI Roku doesnt have to do anything but bitstream the signal through. A device that only has toslink or ARC HAS to convert DD+ to DD vanilla. Samsung TV does this and Roku does not. From what I understand, Roku has no plans to correct this.

EDIT: Dont think I explained that well
Device that only has to pass audio via HDMI has it easy (Roku, Chomecast stick as examples). Bitstream it through. Nothing to do.

DD+ cannot go over ARC or Toslink. It must be converted to DD vanilla. A Smart TV must convert the DD+ to DD to send it out via ARC or Toslink. It has more to do than just bitstream the DD+ through.

Curious if you hear a difference between DD and DD+ when watching NF?
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post #11288 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 07:29 PM
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I've had mine for 8 months now, Best Tv i've owned. Have a slight buzz, but it goes away once the tv volume is going.
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post #11289 of 11307 Old 03-04-2015, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bmcn View Post
Curious if you hear a difference between DD and DD+ when watching NF?
Cant say that I have but I have not really done any purposeful testing either. If someone gave me a specific movie/scene to compare I'd be happy to try it. I can do DD from the TV, or DD+ from a Chromecast or BD player. Most of the time I use the TV since the NF interface is very fast and convenient.
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post #11290 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by sjm817 View Post
Cant say that I have but I have not really done any purposeful testing either. If someone gave me a specific movie/scene to compare I'd be happy to try it. I can do DD from the TV, or DD+ from a Chromecast or BD player. Most of the time I use the TV since the NF interface is very fast and convenient.
Agree; I didn't hear a difference between DD and DD+ when casually watching NF.
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post #11291 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
Here are some images of my space and the location where I want to hang this TV. I don't know yet if telescoping or tilting is important in this spot. It could be nice to have since the room expands off the the right of this photo, where the kids play, so maybe so they could watch from that area, but the majority of the time its a straight on viewing area.
Thanks for the picture. I understand much better what you're worried about now.

That conventional style outlet might create an issue with a mount like the one I linked. There really might not be enough room for the plug where it goes into the wall. I can't remember whether the wall end of the plug is straight or a 90. If you don't have a reason to keep it close to the wall, I'd recommend finding one that holds the TV farther out than the one I linked.

What you have can definitely be made to work just fine. But in case you aren't aware of it, I'll point this out. There are outlets that could be installed that are a much better fit behind a TV. Something like this would eliminate the issue of the plug sticking out from the wall.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arguably more importantly, it lets you use a surge protector. How important that is to you is a personal decision. I'm just pointing it out to be sure you're aware and consciously making the decision.
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post #11292 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by pitviper33 View Post
I can't remember whether the wall end of the plug is straight or a 90. If you don't have a reason to keep it close to the wall, I'd recommend finding one that holds the TV farther out than the one I linked.


Arguably more importantly, it lets you use a surge protector. How important that is to you is a personal decision.
Wall plug is a 90 and protrudes 3/4" when plugged in.

No doubt using a surge protector is wise on a >$2k item.
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post #11293 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pitviper33 View Post
Thanks for the picture. I understand much better what you're worried about now.

That conventional style outlet might create an issue with a mount like the one I linked. There really might not be enough room for the plug where it goes into the wall. I can't remember whether the wall end of the plug is straight or a 90. If you don't have a reason to keep it close to the wall, I'd recommend finding one that holds the TV farther out than the one I linked.

What you have can definitely be made to work just fine. But in case you aren't aware of it, I'll point this out. There are outlets that could be installed that are a much better fit behind a TV. Something like this would eliminate the issue of the plug sticking out from the wall.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arguably more importantly, it lets you use a surge protector. How important that is to you is a personal decision. I'm just pointing it out to be sure you're aware and consciously making the decision.
I had not thought about a surge protector for the TV, thanks for pointing that out. I don't see how this TV Bridge Kit you linked me allows for a surge protector? Where is that functionality in this item?
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post #11294 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
I had not thought about a surge protector for the TV, thanks for pointing that out. I don't see how this TV Bridge Kit you linked me allows for a surge protector? Where is that functionality in this item?
The top box is just like a regular outlet. You plug the TV into it. It also provides a large recessed area for bundled cords to hide and some openings into the wall for your signal cables.
The bottom box has a cord coming out that you can plug into a regular outlet near the floor. The top box gets its power from the bottom box. If you want surge protection, you just plug the bottom box into a surge protector that is plugged into the wall.

I use the kit I linked. It was the slimmest option I could find. I was looking for something that came out of the wall very little AND went into the wall very little.
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post #11295 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by pitviper33 View Post
The top box is just like a regular outlet. You plug the TV into it. It also provides a large recessed area for bundled cords to hide and some openings into the wall for your signal cables.
The bottom box has a cord coming out that you can plug into a regular outlet near the floor. The top box gets its power from the bottom box. If you want surge protection, you just plug the bottom box into a surge protector that is plugged into the wall.

I use the kit I linked. It was the slimmest option I could find. I was looking for something that came out of the wall very little AND went into the wall very little.
Ok I see now, wow, thats a cool thing to have not sure I have the skills to replace what I have with that though, would have been good to know before they installed what I have. Wished I was more handy with that kind of stuff.
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post #11296 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 09:19 PM
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I have another question for you all who own the PN64F8500 or different size of the same model, which HDMI port do you use as your input if you do HDMI switching on your AVR? I know there are 4 back there, but I don't know what it matters if any on which one I use as the main input? I know some of you probably don't do HDMI switching on the AVR and go straight into the TV for each input component.

My Denon AVR has handled my HDMI switching fine since I got it a few years ago.
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post #11297 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 10:06 PM
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I have another question for you all who own the PN64F8500 or different size of the same model, which HDMI port do you use as your input if you do HDMI switching on your AVR? I know there are 4 back there, but I don't know what it matters if any on which one I use as the main input? I know some of you probably don't do HDMI switching on the AVR and go straight into the TV for each input component.

My Denon AVR has handled my HDMI switching fine since I got it a few years ago.
HDMI3 has the ARC port.
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post #11298 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 10:07 PM
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HDMI3 has the ARC port.

Ok I guess I haven't studied my TV enough, what's the ARC port? And what's it good for?


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post #11299 of 11307 Old Yesterday, 10:28 PM
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post #11300 of 11307 Old Today, 01:37 AM
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Is there a way to set TV's screen saver specific to an input?
I've noticed I was running envageline's break-in slides all day yesteday just fine (via PowerDVD on my HTPC)
today I was watching blu-ray via the same software/input and noticed TV's screen saver keeps kicking in despite the video is playing
I still want the TV's screen saver for all other inputs...any way to set this up?

Display: 64" Samsung 3D Smart PDP F8500
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post #11301 of 11307 Unread Today, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by sjm817 View Post
Thank you this helped clear it up. So this is the input most people use, especially if they have the SMART TVs with apps that return audio to the AVR system?
Guess I'll make sure to use the ARC port. Does anyone know if the ARC input in this model TV allows 5.1 surround or is it just 2.0?
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post #11302 of 11307 Unread Today, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
Thank you this helped clear it up. So this is the input most people use, especially if they have the SMART TVs with apps that return audio to the AVR system?
Guess I'll make sure to use the ARC port. Does anyone know if the ARC input in this model TV allows 5.1 surround or is it just 2.0?
To use ARC, your receiver must also support it. ARC doesnt do anything more than toslink. Same features and limitations. It is a low BW audio link. All it does is save you from having to connect the optical cable. It can send 5.1 depending on what the source is.
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post #11303 of 11307 Unread Today, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
Thank you this helped clear it up. So this is the input most people use, especially if they have the SMART TVs with apps that return audio to the AVR system?
Guess I'll make sure to use the ARC port. Does anyone know if the ARC input in this model TV allows 5.1 surround or is it just 2.0?
5.1 DD is passed from the smartapps to the AVR. The Netflix app on our TV's was available only in Stereo for a time, but that was fixed in February.

Last edited by bmcn; Today at 07:55 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwl001 View Post
You only need to worry about two things with TV mounts -- weight limit and VESA measurement. The "fits TV" measurement is only a suggestion. I don't know if you already have the TV, but on mine by far what stuck out the furthest was the power cable, right in the middle of the TV. I bought an ultra slim mount from monoprice and used the largest spacer without issue. Was able to mount my previous 65" Panasonic closer to the wall, but it was tight.
I think some of the Fits TV stuff also has to do with accessing the hardware to adjust or secure it. I have a tilt mount for up to 24", it fit my 32" but you couldn't access the lock screw.
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post #11305 of 11307 Unread Today, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitviper33 View Post
The top box is just like a regular outlet. You plug the TV into it. It also provides a large recessed area for bundled cords to hide and some openings into the wall for your signal cables.
The bottom box has a cord coming out that you can plug into a regular outlet near the floor. The top box gets its power from the bottom box. If you want surge protection, you just plug the bottom box into a surge protector that is plugged into the wall.

I use the kit I linked. It was the slimmest option I could find. I was looking for something that came out of the wall very little AND went into the wall very little.
After reviewing my cables coming out of the wall where the builders AV guy installed them, the HDMI cable is very short, like they expected the HDMI input to be right in the center of the TV, I can't tug on it to pull it out more, so I guess I'm stuck with getting an extension to the HDMI cable, because this PN64F8500 has the inputs on the far left side of the TV. Are the extensions ok to to use in this situation, not ideal I guess, but not sure I can run a longer one down, I think this is something they installed when the frames were up, and it's probably wired through the studs.



What I guess I need now?
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
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post #11306 of 11307 Unread Today, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisMc73 View Post
After reviewing my cables coming out of the wall where the builders AV guy installed them, the HDMI cable is very short, like they expected the HDMI input to be right in the center of the TV, I can't tug on it to pull it out more, so I guess I'm stuck with getting an extension to the HDMI cable, because this PN64F8500 has the inputs on the far left side of the TV. Are the extensions ok to to use in this situation, not ideal I guess, but not sure I can run a longer one down, I think this is something they installed when the frames were up, and it's probably wired through the studs.



What I guess I need now?
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
It'll probably work. But it might not. HDMI is finicky. Only way to know is to try it and see. If it doesn't work, just stuff the current HDMI cable into the wall and forget about it. Replace it with a new one you run yourself. They're cheap anyway.

Something to consider though. IF you were interested in a kit like the one I posted, you could probably solve the stuck HDMI issue at the same time. The hole you cut in the drywall is big enough to stick your whole arm in and figure out what's catching the cable. If the cable just goes vertically through the wall, it's probably going through fire blocking or is clipped to a stud. Either could probably be fixed without tearing up drywall. And installing a kit like that is seriously easy. You just find a spot between studs, cut out a rectangle, and put in the boxes. You don't even have to attach the boxes to studs. They have feet that catch the back side of the drywall.
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post #11307 of 11307 Unread Today, 09:23 AM
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Are the extensions ok to to use in this situation, not ideal I guess,
I know it would bother me, but I think it will work for you without issue. I would at least attempt to fish the correct length cable through the existing openings.
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