Official Samsung PNxxF8500 Owners Thread (No Street Price Talk) - Page 379 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11341 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 06:01 AM
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Noticed today that my pixel orbiter has been sticking on left side of screen and not rotating. I have four rows of pixels turned off. It rotates to left side and will not go to bottom or right side....stays on left side whole time. No idea how long its been like this. Hope those rows of pixels arent under-aged now. Really dont want to factory reset it and lose my cal day and night modes. Paranoid now uuugh
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post #11342 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 06:32 AM
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Did factory reset....orbiter still sticking on left side....wondering if its a firmware issue now...anybody notice this?
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post #11343 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hove131 View Post
Noticed today that my pixel orbiter has been sticking on left side of screen and not rotating. I have four rows of pixels turned off. It rotates to left side and will not go to bottom or right side....stays on left side whole time. No idea how long its been like this. Hope those rows of pixels arent under-aged now. Really dont want to factory reset it and lose my cal day and night modes. Paranoid now uuugh
The effectiveness of the pixel orbiter at squelching IR has been discussed since this thread has been created. A lot of the experts agreed that the pixel orbiter does nothing to help IR. It just spreads the IR around its pixel rotation boundaries.
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post #11344 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hove131 View Post
Noticed today that my pixel orbiter has been sticking on left side of screen and not rotating. I have four rows of pixels turned off. It rotates to left side and will not go to bottom or right side....stays on left side whole time. No idea how long its been like this. Hope those rows of pixels arent under-aged now. Really dont want to factory reset it and lose my cal day and night modes. Paranoid now uuugh
When you switch to screen fit, are those same 4 rows off or on? When I use Screen Fit or 16:9, I never have any dead rows of pixels.

Last edited by wxman; 03-08-2015 at 11:07 AM.
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post #11345 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 10:24 AM
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How do I get zoom 1 and 2 to work? I go to Tools on remote but their not highlighted to access them?
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post #11346 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by molfious View Post
It looks to me like this may not have been addressed by firmware for users in Europe. Have you contacted Samsung?

Hi Molfious,

There is little expertise to find at the helpdesk and Samsung Korea is not that keen to provide information. They scheduled a technician to come and look at it.

Just have to wait for now.

Thanks
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post #11347 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jb0p View Post
I think I've burned in an image into my 64" F8500.

I've been playing Destiny on PS4 since October/November and have logged almost 400 hours on the game and display. When I first started playing I would check for IR and it didn't seem significant so I just stopped checking for it (bad idea).

I've played most of the time in Movie mode with cell light at 14 and contrast at 95 and SCREEN FIT picture mode.

The set had 1200 or more hours on it when I first started playing Destiny. No games had been played on the set for its first 1000 hours. It currently has 2200 hours on it.

Some gaming sessions would last 8 hours but always plenty of TV and movies in between.

The Destiny HUD can clearly be seen on light backgrounds (white, green, grey, yellow).

I haven't played since last Saturday and have been running slides and the screen sweep for hours at a time. I think it may have faded a bit but it is still clearly visible.

Is my set screwed?
Doubtful that it's a true burned image, but to test, run some fullscreen content (Avatar blu works great) in dynamic setting for a while and see if you notice fading. Running a screen wipe would also work. Also, stay away from the games until it's gone.

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post #11348 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ketro View Post
Hi Molfious,

There is little expertise to find at the helpdesk and Samsung Korea is not that keen to provide information. They scheduled a technician to come and look at it.

Just have to wait for now.

Thanks
Let us know how it turns out.
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post #11349 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 03:24 PM
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correct AVSHD brightness clipping setting?

I came across this post/thread that suggests setting brightness so that bar 19 and above flash as opposed to 17. Can any pros weigh in?

For those struggling with brightness, contrast & backlight settings on LCD's
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post #11350 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 04:40 PM
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I feel I am moderately knowledgeable when it comes to hooking up A/V gear, but I can not get my LG bluray play to work with my F8500. It works fine with my Panasonic plasma. Is it just a matter of getting the HDMI handshake correct? When I hook it up it will say 1080p/60 but show a black screen. I have had the menu flash on the screen a couple of times for a second or two, but that is about it. I tried 3 different HDMI cables and same result, and they all work find with the Panasonic plasma. Any ideas?
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post #11351 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pbenjamin View Post
The Delete All didn't resolve the situation. The message persists.

Didn't see this message for days and last night it popped back up. I deleted it again, only to have it pop up again today. Unbelievably annoying!
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post #11352 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 05:21 PM
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Jb0p...

Sorry to hear about your image retention issue. 8 hours straight with a fixed logo is not a good idea with plasma, but fortunately you only had your cell intensity set at 14. I recommend that you invest $15-$20 and purchase the Disney WOW (World of Wonder) Blu-Ray. It has a pixel inverter that... while designed for stuck pixels on LCD panels works "WONDERS" for plasma image retention. IMO it will work MUCH better than the screen wipe that comes on the TV. Set your cell intensity up a little higher before running it... maybe at 17 or 18. This will give you a small safety net in the unlikely event your Blu-Ray player freezes.

I would run it overnight and see if it is removed.
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post #11353 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by EyeInSky1970 View Post
Jb0p...

Sorry to hear about your image retention issue. 8 hours straight with a fixed logo is not a good idea with plasma, but fortunately you only had your cell intensity set at 14. I recommend that you invest $15-$20 and purchase the Disney WOW (World of Wonder) Blu-Ray. It has a pixel inverter that... while designed for stuck pixels on LCD panels works "WONDERS" for plasma image retention. IMO it will work MUCH better than the screen wipe that comes on the TV. Set your cell intensity up a little higher before running it... maybe at 17 or 18. This will give you a small safety net in the unlikely event your Blu-Ray player freezes.

I would run it overnight and see if it is removed.
I have to wholeheartedly disagree. I bought the Disney WOW Blu-ray for my older Panasonic GT50 plasma and I have some very stubborn IR that the WOW BRD can't get rid of. I think it's permanent. I have NFL Network logo basically burned into the screen. I'm only on that channel possibly an hour a day in cinema mode (which is medium in brightness) and the NFL Network logo easily goes away on my Samsung Plasma within 1 minute or less. For stubborn IR the WOW disc didn't help......at least for me. I would try other techniques before investing into the WOW disc and not knowing it's going to help or not.

But this is also another reason I bought only ONE Panasonic Plasma. They are IR magnets. It's unfortunate that the other Samsung owner here had IR issues. That's not very common.
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post #11354 of 11886 Old 03-08-2015, 08:26 PM
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Switching to full screen disables the pixel shift. ...switching to 16:9 allows you to turn it on or off. I've been running the pixel shift since i bought it. Not sure how long it was stuck on left side....its only 4 rows so hard to tell if those pixels are underage compared to others.
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post #11355 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 05:26 AM
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I was always nervous about "burn-in" or even severe image retention with the plasma. I think because the Samsung is so bright... that it actually HELPS combat against image retention. The brighter and more intense light seems to help wash away image retention. The darker plasmas, like the Panasonic and the older Pioneer models typically show longer image retention (but also have the best blacks).

I think spending $15-$20 on a calibration disc is chump change compared to the $1500 (60") - $3000 (64") investment of the Samsung TV. Plus, you will have a very useful tool for calibrating your other TV sets as well as the TV's of your friends & family as well. The inverted pixel converter is much more "intense" than the screen wipe that comes with the Samsung. I assumed the screen wipe was already tried to no avail (hence... the posters first comment). I personally don't think 8 hours of gaming would be enough for a permanent burn-in on the screen. It's probably just a very nasty & stubborn image retention. The intensity of the WOW's utility (plus raising the cell light intensity to help wash away) are definitely good considerations in my book. Raising the cell light intensity should give the phosphors more "muscle" during the cleaning process.
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post #11356 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 05:35 AM
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Also... I don't think the WOW disc will be of much help to those who have actual burn-in. Burn-in literally means permanent, and no fixing that.

I do hope you are able to get rid of the IR on your Sammy though. If that happened to me, I would be pulling out my hair (lol). If you are able to get it fixed, I would advise to play video games at an even lower cell light setting (maybe 10-12) and also limit your play to 4 hour sessions... and then let the TV take a break and watch normal content for a while before resuming the game again. If it was an LED-LCD tv, you could play for a verrrrrryyyyyy long time before any burn-in can happen. But unfortunately with plasma you gotta be careful and treat the TV with a little more respect.

I would also like to echo HL dan's comment. I too had some very minor "NFL logo" type situations, but they would literally wash away within a minute or two. I also think there is a bit of "luck of the draw" aspect when it comes to plasma TV's when it comes to sensitivity to IR, but I would say overall having severe IR on the Samsung (because of its near LED level brightness) is rare.
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post #11357 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sytech View Post
I feel I am moderately knowledgeable when it comes to hooking up A/V gear, but I can not get my LG bluray play to work with my F8500. It works fine with my Panasonic plasma. Is it just a matter of getting the HDMI handshake correct? When I hook it up it will say 1080p/60 but show a black screen. I have had the menu flash on the screen a couple of times for a second or two, but that is about it. I tried 3 different HDMI cables and same result, and they all work find with the Panasonic plasma. Any ideas?
Have you tried a different HDMI port on tv? Do other devices work connected via HDMI like a cable box/satellite box, ROKU, etc?
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post #11358 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 09:43 AM
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Have you tried a different HDMI port on tv? Do other devices work connected via HDMI like a cable box/satellite box, ROKU, etc?
Yes. I tried different ports and everything else works fine. I think it just might have a complicated HDMI handshake procedure. Found some info on LG site that the player have to be on first then the tv then you need to wait up to 30 seconds. Never had one that complicated before but will give it a try.
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post #11359 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 09:49 AM
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Yes. I tried different ports and everything else works fine. I think it just might have a complicated HDMI handshake procedure. Found some info on LG site that the player have to be on first then the tv then you need to wait up to 30 seconds. Never had one that complicated before but will give it a try.
If that doesnt work, try setting the color space on the LG to 4:2:2.
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post #11360 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sytech View Post
I feel I am moderately knowledgeable when it comes to hooking up A/V gear, but I can not get my LG bluray play to work with my F8500. It works fine with my Panasonic plasma. Is it just a matter of getting the HDMI handshake correct? When I hook it up it will say 1080p/60 but show a black screen. I have had the menu flash on the screen a couple of times for a second or two, but that is about it. I tried 3 different HDMI cables and same result, and they all work find with the Panasonic plasma. Any ideas?
Can you provide the specific model number of the LG Bluray player?
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post #11361 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 01:42 PM
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Hello all,
Does anybody know what the new firmware is for. I hope this wasn't discussed already.

Regards
Jeff
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post #11362 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 09:48 PM
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I picked up the Disney WOW disc on Thursday and I've been running the pixel flipper overnight 3 or 4 times in Dynamic with cell light at 20 and contrast at 100.

Unfortunately, I don't think the IR is fading anymore and it appears I've burned my screen permanently.

It's extremely obvious from 12-14 feet away on the screen wipe or with any lighter or grey colours on a purity test.

Fortunately, it's not viewable in most normal viewing. I might try using jscreenfix deluxe and burning in a complement image to try and soften the hard edges.

An expensive lesson learned.

Atleast my wife is happy that I won't be playing Destiny anymore.

Last edited by jb0p; 03-09-2015 at 09:53 PM.
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post #11363 of 11886 Old 03-09-2015, 10:46 PM
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Break in for PN64F8500

Hi, do folks still use USB burn-in patterns like Evangelo's from back in 2005 (I used it on my Pioneer Elite Kuro back in the day). I recently picked up a floor model of the PN64F8500 from Best Buy. They claim it has only had a few days on it and that since it was considered a newer floor model, I could purchase it for $1750 (which I did this past weekend). The story is like this: Once Samsung officially declared that they no longer made this TV, then Best Buy could sell all their floor models. I have been occasionally calling since Black Friday when I missed getting one.
After that sale, Best Buy said they couldn't sell the floor models until Samsung officially declared they were not going to make these TVs. 2 weeks ago, they started selling them and the store by me sold the one they had. I was bummed but then they said they had another one that was out on the floor and it had been out for just a bit. I drove down and paid for delivery and installation and a 5 yr extended for another $500 so I'll have it soon enough. When I get it, wanted to burn it in for 24 hours with the same USB I used and just wanted to get folks' opinions on this.

Also, the sound isn't the best, any suggestions on a sound bar. I kind of like the all in one for ease of installation. This TV isn't replacing my Kuro but is in another room.

Thanks!
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post #11364 of 11886 Old 03-10-2015, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by punkguins View Post

Also, the sound isn't the best, any suggestions on a sound bar. I kind of like the all in one for ease of installation. This TV isn't replacing my Kuro but is in another room.

Thanks!
I like the Samsung HW-550 sound bar. Good sound, looks good, and if you plug it into the ARC HDMI jack on the TV, the TV controls the sound bar power and volume -- only one remote to deal with.
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post #11365 of 11886 Old 03-10-2015, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by punkguins View Post
Hi, do folks still use USB burn-in patterns like Evangelo's from back in 2005 (I used it on my Pioneer Elite Kuro back in the day). I recently picked up a floor model of the PN64F8500 from Best Buy. They claim it has only had a few days on it and that since it was considered a newer floor model, I could purchase it for $1750 (which I did this past weekend). The story is like this: Once Samsung officially declared that they no longer made this TV, then Best Buy could sell all their floor models. I have been occasionally calling since Black Friday when I missed getting one.
After that sale, Best Buy said they couldn't sell the floor models until Samsung officially declared they were not going to make these TVs. 2 weeks ago, they started selling them and the store by me sold the one they had. I was bummed but then they said they had another one that was out on the floor and it had been out for just a bit. I drove down and paid for delivery and installation and a 5 yr extended for another $500 so I'll have it soon enough. When I get it, wanted to burn it in for 24 hours with the same USB I used and just wanted to get folks' opinions on this.

Also, the sound isn't the best, any suggestions on a sound bar. I kind of like the all in one for ease of installation. This TV isn't replacing my Kuro but is in another room.

Thanks!
I used these slides, though can't remember if I did it from USB or from an attached computer.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/break_in_images.zip
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post #11366 of 11886 Old 03-10-2015, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Prany View Post
No PVR function using base service menu in 1203. Yep, all the settings got messed up.

molfious, per your request:

Offset
R - 140
G - 128
B - 118

Gain
R - 147
G - 128
B - 114
Prany, I'm wondering if you get some time if you are able to help me validate some additional settings? I think, I'm back to default, but want to make sure before I have the calibration done again. I missed getting photos of some settings last time, so want to be 100% complete this time.
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post #11367 of 11886 Old 03-10-2015, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jb0p View Post
I picked up the Disney WOW disc on Thursday and I've been running the pixel flipper overnight 3 or 4 times in Dynamic with cell light at 20 and contrast at 100.

Unfortunately, I don't think the IR is fading anymore and it appears I've burned my screen permanently.

It's extremely obvious from 12-14 feet away on the screen wipe or with any lighter or grey colours on a purity test.

Fortunately, it's not viewable in most normal viewing. I might try using jscreenfix deluxe and burning in a complement image to try and soften the hard edges.

An expensive lesson learned.

Atleast my wife is happy that I won't be playing Destiny anymore.
I'm very sorry to hear that. It's terrible news, and it's a shame a consumer can't enjoy using such a set for gaming as much as TV watching. It's hard to believe that just 8 hours was enough to cause this. I assume you did break in the TV for 400 hours before running anything at "full speed", correct?

I guess if you have no other option, you could try to intentionally burn in an "inverse" complement image. It would also be good if the image could be pixel shifted to soften & blur the edges - which is what makes IR/burn-in more noticeable. The thought of having to do that wreaks as much as spraying bathroom scent after a massive dump! You just may find you now get to experience "both" in its full glory so I would make sure the IR/burn-in image you see has not improved first. Again... I'm really sorry this has happened to you. The good news is that OLED is now officially here, and within a couple years I imagine an amazing set can be had for less than the plasmas we just bought. You will have 100.0% perfect blacks. A picture superior to plasma and no buzzing noise! And I also assume the video processing technology will be improved as the years go by as well - which will continually improve motion without inducing the soap opera effect.
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post #11368 of 11886 Old 03-10-2015, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by EyeInSky1970 View Post
I'm very sorry to hear that. It's terrible news, and it's a shame a consumer can't enjoy using such a set for gaming as much as TV watching. It's hard to believe that just 8 hours was enough to cause this. I assume you did break in the TV for 400 hours before running anything at "full speed", correct?
It was sessions lasting up to 8 hours at a time, but I have 400 hours played on the game. Most of those showing the HUD (non adjustable bright opaque white). I foolishly left screen fit on because I didn't like how much information was obscured with pixel shift on.

The weapon, primary ammo count, yellow super bar (bright white while it's charging), white vertical line at the right side of the HUD are the what's really obvious. Also the health bar in the center of the screen. Continually showing bright white on the same pixels for a cumulative 400 hours is what has done the damage. Many games allow you to adjust the opacity of the HUD but Destiny does not.

400 hours out of 2400 makes it about 17% of the Display's use had Destiny on the TV. The other 83% was a mixture of TV/Movies and the first 200+ hours was break in slides mostly.
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post #11369 of 11886 Old 03-10-2015, 07:57 AM
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The first 200-400 hours is the most susceptible period for burn-in. Avoid pausing content especially high contrast images. My present Samsung PDP (PN50A650) still has an etch free screen after almost 7 years. I've paused programs more recently as long as 20 minutes and while there is always an after-image, it is entirely gone within 15-20 minutes. The biggest culprits are some news and sports channels with high contrast banners. I avoid those most of the time in any case. Pausing (or even watching for a long time).
I think if you use your display a lot for gaming or PC, LCD would be a better choice.
I really fretted over this phenomena my first 2 years of ownership. Now I don't even think about it, until I read a discussion on the subject. I anxiously await the arrival of my 8500 plasma display, without any hesitation.

I would also use a cal disk right away on a brand new display to get brightness and contrast under control, whether you plan to have a pro cal it later or DIY.

Last edited by videoaddikt; 03-10-2015 at 08:15 AM.
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post #11370 of 11886 Old 03-10-2015, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by punkguins View Post
I drove down and paid for delivery and installation and a 5 yr extended for another $500 so I'll have it soon enough. When I get it, wanted to burn it in for 24 hours with the same USB I used and just wanted to get folks' opinions on this.
Can you return the extended warranty? You can get an extra 3 years from SquareTrade through Costco for $90. Admittedly it's not quite as comprehensive as BB's, but it's a lot less money too.

On the "break-in", I made video clips you can use in place of slides and posted them in this thread. Unfortunately the download links expired. I re-uploaded the 1080p file with mp3 audio that works with the F8500 for you.
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